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sansuki posted:I am running into a bit of a problem concerning color choices. I am painting up sword knights for Cygnar, and am doing an alternate scheme than normal. They normally look like this. Gold becomes white, blue stays blue, silver stays silver. Alternately, gold becomes blue, blue becomes white.
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Jun 3, 2011 01:10
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So are we still looking fondly on the Harbor Freight airbrush? Because I just found out there's a store nearby. Any advise on how loud the compressor is on that thing?
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Jun 3, 2011 01:28
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Fix posted:So are we still looking fondly on the Harbor Freight airbrush? Because I just found out there's a store nearby. Yeah I've got a store near me too and was wondering the same thing the other day.
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Jun 3, 2011 01:42
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So I finally got around to painting my unit of wraiths/banshee the other night. I'm relatively happy with how they turned out, since I was mostly experimenting, though I absolutely hate the banshee model, and used her purely to try and recreate the ethereal colors of the librarian ghost from Ghostbusters.
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Jun 3, 2011 01:55
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Fix posted:So are we still looking fondly on the Harbor Freight airbrush? Because I just found out there's a store nearby. It's not very loud: I can speak at volume without having to speak over it while it's running, and if it's on a sturdy surface (like your floor), you can barely hear it from the next room over. Or I might just have thick walls.
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Jun 3, 2011 02:30
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On the subject of airbrushes would I need some sort of glove box/fume hood or mask to use one? I'm in a dorm room for the summer and have been debating getting one but am worried about giving my self horrible health problems or painting the whole room.
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Jun 3, 2011 03:02
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Fix posted:So are we still looking fondly on the Harbor Freight airbrush? Because I just found out there's a store nearby. It's very quiet. Definitely recommend it for basecoating but I am under the impression the airbrush leaves something to be desired as far as consistency goes. Using it for zenith highlighting is difficult because it doesn't spray as finely as I'd like, but I don't know enough about airbrush setups to know what causes that sort of problem.
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Jun 3, 2011 03:14
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Be warned that the harbor freight air compressor doesn't have a pressure regulator on it.
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Jun 3, 2011 03:45
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If you want to use the airbrush for non basecoating stuff yeah, need a pressure regulator. between adjusting pressure and the thinness of your paint + a double action brush and you'll be able to get pretty much any spray intensity you want
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Jun 3, 2011 03:56
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Finished my rough base coat of megalith. Feeling good about this army. VVV painting 4 bajillion skaven has burned out many a ham. Real hurthling! fucked around with this message at 04:46 on Jun 3, 2011 |
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Jun 3, 2011 04:26
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Trait(or)ilus.  Okay that wasn't as clever as in my head.
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Jun 3, 2011 04:31
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Fix posted:So are we still looking fondly on the Harbor Freight airbrush? Because I just found out there's a store nearby. I, too, would like to know the answer to this. Also Tadhg - going to post this here for more input though it pertains to our short PM convo. This refers to trying to fill gaps on SM bikes. I've actually got some of the Vallejo plastic putty, but I'm not so sure about it. I've used it before but it ends up getting all mushy and stuff after I primer it I think. Maybe the propellant is causing it to dissolve? I'd like to get the stuff to work since I have a whole bottle of it, maybe I'm not doing something right.
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Jun 3, 2011 04:33
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I haven't heard anything good about Vallejo plastic putty. It takes ~3 days to fully cure, and even then can't be sanded well because it's such a soft material. Good for tiny holes maybe, but that's about it- I wouldn't use it on the joins on a bike. I really recommend that anyone who works with plastic get themselves some proper brush-on plastic cement. It's much thinner than the stuff in a tube, and you end up using much less of it overall. Plus, you can do this neat trick to eliminate seams: http://www.heresy-online.net/forums/showthread.php?p=918033
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Jun 3, 2011 04:45
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Chiming in to say that the Harbor Freight airbrush is good for basecoats, and that's about it. Even still, it's worth it every time I get a smooth green basecoat in minutes instead of hours.
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Jun 3, 2011 05:55
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Real hurthling! posted:just toss a spare die at the models feet and use it to record wounds as he takes them. Helps to use dice that are a different color than the ones you are rolling. That's what I do, but HardCoil was asking about the perils of wound counters mounted into a base. If a wound counter, mounted high up, could be done properly it would be less of a hassle than a floating die on the board.
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Jun 3, 2011 06:12
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Anyone have any recommendations for a compressor with regulator? I have an Iwata Revolution coming and am not averse to upgrading my current simple compressor.
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Jun 3, 2011 06:21
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I've decided to get back into my old Tyranid army a bit while I'm doing my Blood Ravens so I decided to take a couple shots of a couple of some of the old models I have painted. I got a little frustrated figuring out exactly what to do with the claws, so they aren't done.    They seem so sloppy now, I kind of want to try a new scheme but there's no way I'm repainting these ones.
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Jun 3, 2011 08:14
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^^^ Sloppy? Those Nids look dope to me. I wish half the guys I played with painted their stuff that well.
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Jun 3, 2011 08:25
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They look super crisp in these days of "dunk it in devlan mud"
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Jun 3, 2011 08:30
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MasterSlowPoke posted:They look super crisp in these days of "dunk it in devlan mud" My painting style 
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Jun 3, 2011 08:47
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Is there a good list somewhere, or can someone suggest one, of what I need to get started painting Marines? I'm planning on painting up Mentor Legion and have some ideas to reflect their "testing experimental gear/working with other imperial military" concept. I've grabbed a few bits and pieces from ebay to play with and am trying to find someone to do the double AOBR box buy with, so what I'm looking for is a list of what to get so I can start painting.
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Jun 3, 2011 13:21
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Fyrbrand posted:Chiming in to say that the Harbor Freight airbrush is good for basecoats, and that's about it. Even still, it's worth it every time I get a smooth green basecoat in minutes instead of hours. Is this what you have? http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/air-compressors/1-5-hp-58-psi-compressor-and-airbrush-kit-95630.html Also is it possible to use foundation paints with the air brush? Maybe just requires extra windex?
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Jun 3, 2011 14:24
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Anyone here got any tips on dealing with mis-sized slot bases? One of the models I have is a bit too small for the slot gap and tends to lean left or right, any suggestions on how to deal with this? I was just thinking super glue or green stuff to fix up the gap, but is there any other alternative to dealing with it?
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Jun 3, 2011 15:10
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Waxpaper and white glue work. Plasticard, bits of sprue, corkboard also do the trick.
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Jun 3, 2011 15:15
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Jeet posted:Is there a good list somewhere, or can someone suggest one, of what I need to get started painting Marines? I'm planning on painting up Mentor Legion and have some ideas to reflect their "testing experimental gear/working with other imperial military" concept. A detail brush, a basecoat brush, and a drybrush. The first two can be any make as long as the bristles are kolinsky sable, the GW drybrush is actually excellent. Revell Contacta Professional poly cement. It's a needletip applicator, and the glue is much better than GW's. White undercoat. Black if you're going to paint the torso/head/backpack seperately. I would strongly advise against undercoating the white sections black. Two pots each of Dark Angels & Goblin green. One D.A. is for basecoating and one is for mixing with a pot of Goblin to give you first level highlights. Second pot of Goblin is for final highlights. One pot of Shadow Grey for shading the white. You'll want to thin that down with some water or Vallejo thinner medium. Whatever colours you want for your base, something for the rim, something for the texture, and something for drybrushing on the texture. That's what I used for mine anyway. I can post my notes of how I did the painting if you want. 
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Jun 3, 2011 15:19
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Flipswitch posted:Anyone here got any tips on dealing with mis-sized slot bases? One of the models I have is a bit too small for the slot gap and tends to lean left or right, any suggestions on how to deal with this? I was just thinking super glue or green stuff to fix up the gap, but is there any other alternative to dealing with it? I typically just hold it in place up-side down for the 2-10 seconds it takes for the Krazy Glue to begin setting and then ensure there's a good bond on the underside by adding some extra at the bottom. You could also use something thin and hard to wedge underneath, but you're spending an awful lot of time carefully cutting a slender piece of plasticard or whatnought when the model will hold up just fine one the glue dries and you base it.
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Jun 3, 2011 15:22
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Prefect Six posted:Is this what you have? Yup, that's the one. I haven't used foundation paints in it, but I see no reason why you couldn't.
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Jun 3, 2011 15:35
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Tadhg posted:I haven't heard anything good about Vallejo plastic putty. It takes ~3 days to fully cure, and even then can't be sanded well because it's such a soft material. Good for tiny holes maybe, but that's about it- I wouldn't use it on the joins on a bike. That guide is awesome! Can you pick up the brush on stuff at any regular craft store like michaels? Also his last step say to wash the area? What does he mean? Literally wash it in the sink or does he mean apply another layer of the cement or what?
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Jun 3, 2011 16:14
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:A detail brush, a basecoat brush, and a drybrush. The first two can be any make as long as the bristles are kolinsky sable, the GW drybrush is actually excellent. I loving love you, and yeah, posting or PM'ing the notes would be great.
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Jun 3, 2011 17:20
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Jeet posted:I loving love you, and yeah, posting or PM'ing the notes would be great. Apologies if this is a bit rambly, I've tidied it up a bit but I write my notes while I'm painting so they're sometimes a little less than coherent. If you don't recognise any of the paint names they'll be Vallejo Game Colour equivalents to GW paints. Shouldn't matter which you use, except that Vallejo metallics are poo poo. I do the white by giving the model two undercoats of skull white spray (first a normal undercoat, second is lighter to bulk out the white), I then re-undercoat all the areas that are not going to be white chaos black. Now that I have an airbrush I'd probably undercoat with Vallejo white airbrush primer and then use skull white through the airbrush to solidify it. I might also try using model masking tape to let me spray the black base onto the green areas. I always do the white sections last, because you will get colours spilling over into them and you don't want to keep going back to do touch ups. I line it with shadow grey in the recesses and then neaten up any mistakes using fortress or space wolf grey. Then I use thinned down skull white (I always thin white with Vallejo acrylic medium but you can use water) about 1:1 and paint on as many layers as it takes to cover the grey up, leaving the shadow grey in as shading. Usually about two, maybe three to four for large flat areas. Alternatively, if you're going over a black undercoat, start with astronomican grey as a basecoat, then shadow grey lining, then three parts space wolves grey to one part white for one coat, and then as many coats (three or so) as needed to get a solid white (thinned as above). Doing it this way you can leave some of the white/wolves grey mix between the shadow grey and the white to give a smoother transition. The guns are chaos black highlighted with 50/50 chaos black/codex grey and a final highlight codex grey. Metal is black, boltgun metal, badab black wash. Highlighted with chainmail. Gold is Shining gold basecoat, next a devlan mud wash followed by shining gold highlights. Then burnished gold highlight, and finally 1:1 burnished gold & mithril silver for the final highlight Mentor logos were home made transfers, you can get the design from Bolter & Chainsword. I'd be tempted in future to buy some Raptors transfers from Forgeworld and try to fill them in with Blood Red, I suck at freehand and home made transfers kind of suck. I keep meaning to email forgeworld asking them to release a recolour of their Raptors sheet. On that note, FW Raptors vehicle doors work really well for Mentors. Lenses/optics Gory red base, lower 2/3 bloody red, lower 1/3 orange fire, white dot in top Vehicle optics, vision slits, windscreens etc Necron Abyss base, Magic blue highlight, Electric blue highlight Purity seals Khemri, then bone, then micron pen, then a wash of sepia mechrite then blood red highlight on the seal. Sergeant's stubble 1:1:(at least)5 Tallarn flesh : Cold grey : Vallejo glaze medium Pouches Scorched brown, highlighted with beastial, washed with devlan or sepia. Bases Beasty brown basecoat over the sand, then drybrush plague brown, then drybrush bone paint rim Earth 
Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Jun 3, 2011 |
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Jun 3, 2011 18:03
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Fyrbrand posted:Yup, that's the one. I haven't used foundation paints in it, but I see no reason why you couldn't. Check HKR's post and he says he wouldn't recommend it, but I may try it super thinned down. Do you just glob the paint from a citadel bottle into the air brush bottle and add windex to thin appropriately? I'm assuming you don't have to completely fill the air brush bottle since it's suction fed? Sorry for all the questions, just want to make sure I know what I'm getting into.
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Jun 3, 2011 18:09
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Flipswitch posted:Anyone here got any tips on dealing with mis-sized slot bases? One of the models I have is a bit too small for the slot gap and tends to lean left or right, any suggestions on how to deal with this? I was just thinking super glue or green stuff to fix up the gap, but is there any other alternative to dealing with it? Just be gentle and don't go all  on it with ham hands.Prefect Six posted:That guide is awesome! Can you pick up the brush on stuff at any regular craft store like michaels? Also his last step say to wash the area? What does he mean? Literally wash it in the sink or does he mean apply another layer of the cement or what? As for washing it- the last thing that you do is brush some of the cement over the area to make a smooth surface. When that dries, there will still be a film of the dried cement over it. You want to wash that film off- quick rinse with soapy water should be fine, or a toothbrush if you're paranoid.
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Jun 3, 2011 18:18
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Tadhg posted:Plus, you can do this neat trick to eliminate seams: I  you. This is the only way I'll ever be able to do space marine bikes. Those seams are just too much.
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Jun 3, 2011 18:34
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My terminator librarian replacement came already. (I called on Wednesday.) I haven't messed with it as I'm pretty under the weather, but I did take it out of the package. No damage to the stormbolter, which was what caused me to call. I see far less bubbles, and much less flash. The minimized flash is especially noticeable on the staff. There is some of the same pink material I saw last time, presumably from the mold. This time it's on the wrist of the optional open hand. I can't give a final verdict until I get everything off the sprue and give it a super close look, but already this cast is much better than the first one.
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Jun 3, 2011 19:42
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 washed and highlighted.
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Jun 3, 2011 20:02
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Well, 300+ pages of silently drooling over your models and I did it. I went out and bought a box of little plastic dudes. I got the khador battlegroup box, and I got to say, these dudes looked about twice as big in my minds eye before I opened the box. I'm exponentially more impressed with this thread, and now have to figure out how to paint my own little dudes. I've read plenty of this thread, and am anxious to get started, but somewhat intimidated by my little dudes. I'll be going out this weekend to get some primer and glue and brushes. I had a couple questions first, though. I want to either paint my army tan/orange for a sort of desert look or yellow/gray/black for a sort of construction equipment colored army. How should I prime these? and which would look better?
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Jun 4, 2011 01:17
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Speaking as a fellow newbie who bit off WAY more than he could chew far too early I'd go for tan/orange. You're going to make mistakes, and two colors fairly close to one another means you can cover them up pretty neatly. Also, put off using white for as long as possible, lest you go apeshit.
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Jun 4, 2011 01:38
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Ze Pollack posted:Also, put off using white for as long as possible, lest you go apeshit. Large expanses of white are really much harder to paint than you might think. It either ends up looking messy, or like you just skipped painting over the primer.
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Jun 4, 2011 02:18
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White is not really hard from a technical position, you simply need to keep it thin and realise that all your depth will come from shading. It's the additional time and care it takes to do because of the transparency of white that makes it a chore. Of course, you can 'cheat' and use an off white highlighted with white to mitigate that.
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Jun 4, 2011 06:23
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Kevindanger posted:Well, 300+ pages of silently drooling over your models and I did it. I went out and bought a box of little plastic dudes. I got the khador battlegroup box, and I got to say, these dudes looked about twice as big in my minds eye before I opened the box. I'm exponentially more impressed with this thread, and now have to figure out how to paint my own little dudes. This was my realization too. When I went to paint my first shredder I was like "Seriously? It's this small?!" I could cover it with like two swipes of a broad brush! he detail on really good models in this thread really loving amazes me.
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Jun 4, 2011 07:31
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