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Someone bought a car from me with a loan. He actually paid the down payment to the bank, who cut a check for the full amount. That is different from when I bought from a dealer with a loan.
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May 30, 2011 21:04
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BotchedLobotomy posted:Thanks for the tips. The USAA is only available if you're part of the military right? USAA insurance is only for military / kids of military / spouses of kids of military. Their bank system is available to everyone. After you pay it off they'll send you a lien release that you will take to the DMV to get a clean title with no lien hold listed.
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May 31, 2011 14:28
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I applied earlier and was rejected, while their banking system is available for everyone, their financial services (loans) are not. Any other good options for a 10K or less loan?
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Jun 1, 2011 22:52
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This is shamelessly cross-posted from AI (sorry mods). My mom passed away a few months ago and I will be receiving her 2008 Prius. For some perspective, I'm a 21-year old male who just graduated college and is starting a full-time job in July. My sister is the executor of the will and, as such, will perform the title transfer, but otherwise she is not interested in helping me through the process of receiving this car. 1. What is the general process of transferring a car like? I know that I need to have the title transferred to me, but how does registration work (in Pennsylvania)? I will need to get the car inspected. Anything else I should know? 2. Does anyone know about paying tax on this sort of transfer? The bluebook value of the car will be deducted out of my part of the estate, which will not settle for many months. Because I need to drive to my new job, I'm hoping to have the car running and in my name in the next few weeks. Will I need to pay any sort of tax on the vehicle when the title is transferred or registered to me? I hope not () because I barely have enough money to get this thing running.
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Jun 2, 2011 04:46
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Fixed Gear Guy posted:1. What is the general process of transferring a car like? I know that I need to have the title transferred to me, but how does registration work (in Pennsylvania)? I will need to get the car inspected. Anything else I should know? 1. http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/motorVehicleCenter/buying.shtml#oos - Looks like you have to show up with the signed over title, driver's license, and proof of insurance. There are emissions and safety inspections that you will have to get done before registering the car. Check the DMV website for details based on where you live. http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/inspections/emissions.shtml 2. Unless you can prove an exemption applies you will have to pay sales tax on the fair market value of the car. Whether there is an inheritance exemption for that I don't know. Might want to call the DMV/DOR and ask if inheritance qualified under the gift exemption and what you need to provide to them for an out of state vehicle inheritance to qualify.
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Jun 2, 2011 21:38
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BotchedLobotomy posted:I applied earlier and was rejected, while their banking system is available for everyone, their financial services (loans) are not. Any other good options for a 10K or less loan? Weird. Guess I made an assumption there... Do you have some local credit unions around that you would qualify for membership of? In my experience, my credit union has had ~1 or 2% lower rates than other banks for auto loans.
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Jun 3, 2011 02:43
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shredswithpiks posted:Weird. Guess I made an assumption there... My credit union had a deal that if you got an auto loan with them, you got to become a member even if you didn't qualify in any other way. You had to setup at least a savings account with $5. I needed a loan, they were recommended, so I joined up. Fantastic rates for the loan. Within a month I'd moved all my banking to them.
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Jun 3, 2011 03:37
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Arzakon posted:1. http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/motorVehicleCenter/buying.shtml#oos - Looks like you have to show up with the signed over title, driver's license, and proof of insurance. There are emissions and safety inspections that you will have to get done before registering the car. Check the DMV website for details based on where you live. http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/inspections/emissions.shtml Thanks, I got it signed over today. It was done as a "gift" so there was no sales tax. It's registered and titled to me, I just need to get it inspected within the next week.
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Jun 4, 2011 17:40
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As a followup to my search of a reliable bang-for-your buck car we bought my wife a 2001 civic. Has 115k on it, it's 5spd, and overall in pretty good condition. We paid $5k which is an average deal, not great but a bit less than we'd pay at a dealer. I'm sick of looking for cars (we drove 2.5 hours to get it) so just about whatever we spent was worth it to me. Got it up on a lift before I bought it and it's in great shape underneath, shouldn't have to worry about rust for a while. 40mpg on our first tank! That's 10 better than the cavalier ever got so that's pretty pleasing to my wallet. The interior and trunk seems to be a little larger than our cavalier as well, so that's nice. 
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Jun 6, 2011 16:26
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^^ I just sold that exact car, same color and milleage, on craigslist for a close friend. Got $1500 for it (had a crap ton of body damage, doors didn't open right, but ran ok). Really kind of sad I couldn't have bought it for myself just for the gas mileage - if you baby the throttle and neutral down hills you can get into the 50s :P
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Jun 7, 2011 01:11
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shredswithpiks posted:^^ Also, there cost of replacing a transmission early would negate any fuel savings.
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Jun 7, 2011 14:25
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shredswithpiks posted:^^  On most modern EFI systems putting it into neutral while going down hills actually decreases your MPG. When you're in gear coasting there is no fuel being put into the cylinders to keep the engine going because your wheels/transmission/clutch does that for you. Now if you're out of gear the only way to keep the engine running spinning is to have it idle (which requires gasoline) I think hypermilers will put it in neutral and turn the engine off so they can coast farther. e: beaten.
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Jun 7, 2011 14:32
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the more you know 
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Jun 7, 2011 15:25
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dreesemonkey posted:
And unless they have electric brake assist and electric power steering this is incredibly dangerous and I don't recommend it to anybody ever.
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Jun 7, 2011 16:13
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CornHolio posted:And unless they have electric brake assist and electric power steering this is incredibly dangerous and I don't recommend it to anybody ever. More or less everything hypermilers do (drafting behind trucks!) is incredibly dangerous so it's not like this is a shock.
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Jun 7, 2011 16:20
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I agree, hypermilers are shitbags. It's kinda cool about seeing the max MPG cars can get on real roads, but most of their poo poo is seriously just unsafe.
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Jun 7, 2011 16:51
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CornHolio posted:And unless they have electric brake assist and electric power steering this is incredibly dangerous and I don't recommend it to anybody ever. Even with that it's still dangerous as all hell, if only for the fact that there is that pesky steering column lock to deal with if you turn the key too far off. Coasting in neutral - engine off or not - is actually illegal in many areas anyway. Not that it'd be easy to catch someone doing it.
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Jun 7, 2011 17:32
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I attempted some of the more risky hyper mileing techniques way back and realized pretty quickly the majority of them were too dangerous so I stopped. However, I've always wondered about how long a car has to idle before it uses as much gas as it takes to start it. The main reason why I'm bumping this topic after a few weeks of inactivity is to report that I finally got the 2000 Chevy Prizm (Thanks CH and others for the advice) and to also ask for a few pointers on my current problem, which is selling the Rav 4. To refresh your memories my wife currently owns a 1996 Toyota Rav 4 with over 225k miles. It has a cracked head, leaks oil (Drips) and no AC. We were quoted 1400 to repair the head. The repairs won't include fixing the oil leak or the AC. Edit: I'm considering selling the car or donating it for a tax credit; probably through the NPR Car Talk Vehicle Donation program. I've been reading Publication 526 and it appears you're supposed to use the cars "Fair Market Value" from a source like KBB to determine how much you can deduct; however, I'd also have to take into account the expected repair costs. How would I go about doing that? I suppose my other option is just "Put it up on craigslist and hope for the best". Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Sephiroth_IRA fucked around with this message at 01:24 on Jun 21, 2011 |
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Jun 21, 2011 01:09
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Orange_Lazarus posted:I attempted some of the more risky hyper mileing techniques way back and realized pretty quickly the majority of them were too dangerous so I stopped. However, I've always wondered about how long a car has to idle before it uses as much gas as it takes to start it. Assuming it is in basically working condition and just needs regular maintenance, I would just go with Kelly Blue Book, and spot check craigslist and autotrader to see if comparable vehicles are selling for that. If it has something drastically wrong with it, I would take that into account. A used car that would go for $1500 if it was in good shape, but needs $2000 in repairs doesn’t become worthless. Someone will buy it for something and do the work themselves or buy it for parts, but it might be worth $500 if you sold it as is. It’s not like there is only one way to figure out it’s value. As long as you are not greedy and do something way off the wall, you are not going to get in trouble. Remember when you were in school and the teacher made you show your work in math? It’s kind of like that. As long as you do something reasonable and can back it up, you will be fine.
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Jun 21, 2011 17:25
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There are shadetree mechanics that browse craigslist looking for cars just like yours to fix up and resell. A motivated individual would buy your car for 500 bucks or so, put a few hundred in parts and a lot of personal labor, then flip it for 2K or 2500 or so. A junkyard head and a gasket set wouldn't cost too much in parts.
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Jun 21, 2011 17:30
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With a cracked head and an oil leak of unknown origin I'd guesstimate that Rav4 is worth around $500 to $1000, depending on whether it's worth parting out and/or how much a new head costs.
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Jun 21, 2011 19:20
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Well this sucks. I have an 05 Mazda 3 that was fully paid off with 85K miles. I was planning on driving it another 4 years. Yesterday I got rear ended on the freeway and just found out the car was totaled  The worst part is, I just put 1K into the car last week buying new tires and fixing the AC.I'll probably get around 9K for the car and not sure if I should buy something new with a nice down payment, or get a similar car and have it paid off. The timing is bad because people say it's best to buy a car at the end of the month to get the best deal. Usually I'd like to spend a lot of time researching and making an informed decision, but I feel like I'm going to have a hard time doing that when I need something soon.
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Jul 1, 2011 15:57
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If you desperately need a car (like to get to work), I'd suggest instead of rushing your purchase, just rent a car for a while. Yes, it's money down the drain, but it's better than winding up spending thousands of dollars on something you hate or which turns out to be a lemon. Last July 4 I was in a similar situation as you - my Golf, which I'd bought new and had fully paid off, was totaled by a drunk who fled the scene. I got about 11k from my insurance company, and then took my time shopping - I finally settled on a car and bought it from a dealer at the end of July. I decided to buy a used car so I could own it outright, because I'd rather not have a car payment right now (and it's more economical of course). In the meantime my wife and I have an old rickety truck I used when I had to, so I didn't need to rent anything. But if you can rent, or maybe borrow a car from someone, that's a really good idea. I really think rushing to buy a car is almost always a risk that's not worth it. It's a huge purchase; take your time.
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Jul 1, 2011 21:29
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Leperflesh posted:If you desperately need a car (like to get to work), I'd suggest instead of rushing your purchase, just rent a car for a while. I live in New York and am just about to move to LA for my new job. I am certain that renting is something I am going to do for the first couple of months, so that I don't make some sort of lovely decision about buying a car. Where is a good place to rent a car from for 2 months? Would I still go to Enterprise (like I did when I was job hunting?) I have lived in New York for 12 years and have never owned a car. I have a United Kingdom drivers license, which I've used on the rare occasion I've had to rent a car. So now I have to go get my first US drivers license. I'm 36 years old. When I get a car and then get insurance, am I going to be treated exactly like a 17 year old getting their first car? Is there anyone that would take into account my long held UK license/age? Am I just going to have to suck up hugely inflated rates for a few years?
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Jul 4, 2011 06:41
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SoulChicken posted:I live in New York and am just about to move to LA for my new job. I am certain that renting is something I am going to do for the first couple of months, so that I don't make some sort of lovely decision about buying a car. Where is a good place to rent a car from for 2 months? Would I still go to Enterprise (like I did when I was job hunting?) Since you're in a major city, there should be car co-ops that you can sign up for that'll likely be cheaper than traditional rentals.
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Jul 4, 2011 23:54
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DuckConference posted:Since you're in a major city, there should be car co-ops that you can sign up for that'll likely be cheaper than traditional rentals. Sweet thanks, I'll look into that.
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Jul 5, 2011 01:15
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SoulChicken posted:When I get a car and then get insurance, am I going to be treated exactly like a 17 year old getting their first car? Is there anyone that would take into account my long held UK license/age? Am I just going to have to suck up hugely inflated rates for a few years? You will not be treated exactly like a 17-year old; if you are over 25, insurance rates are lower even for brand newly licensed people. That said, LA is a higher-risk region, so you should expect to pay a fairly steep price regardless. Get a comprehensive policy and be certain that you get uninsured/underinsured motorist coverage; this is an "optional" coverage but a lot of California drivers are (illegally) uninsured, and you do not want to be in a position of having to sue someone to recover your damages. You will find that California's minimum liability insurance coverage is hilariously low... if you can possibly afford it, increase the coverage to at least 100k. In a multi-vehicle accident, or any accident in which someone is seriously injured, you can easily blow through even $100k and you don't want to be bankrupted by a car accident. Shop around for insurance. Get quotes from a lot of different places. I suggest getting a 4-door economy sedan, when you do get a car, to lower your rates. If you have a college degree, are married, and/or are female, all of those factors will qualify you for discounts too. Call Amica first - I highly recommend them for low rates and excellent service. e. Zipcar operates in Los Angeles; I have some friends here in the bay area who seem to be happy with them. http://www.zipcar.com/losangeles/find-cars Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Jul 5, 2011 |
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Jul 5, 2011 18:53
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What are your opinions about the 2011 Kia Optima? I was looking at LX's and they seem nice. I think I could get a price from 17.5-18.3k. Is that reasonable? I can't find a used one, but have also been thinking about the 2010's. There were a lot of changes in the '11 though.
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Jul 11, 2011 17:43
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I believe MSRP on those is $19,200, not including shipping. And that's bare-bones. So I don't know if you'd be able to get one much cheaper. I had one for work (LX trim, which starts at $20,700), and it was comfortable and well-equipped and very large inside. I loved the looks of it as well. The engine was a bit buzzy but had plenty of power, and about the only things I could really complain about were the interior plastics and the lack of driving dynamics, neither of which are really an issue for most people.
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Jul 11, 2011 18:19
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Crossposting from AI since it seems like my question is more appropriate here. I've never purchased a car before, so wanted to ask for some advice. I'm looking at a 2004 Nissan Sentra at Carmax. I'm a recent college grad who is pretty clueless about all of this, so I don't know what to look for. This car has had one owner, was never used as a fleet car, no accidents and 72k miles. Carmax has listed $8998 as the price, which is quite a bit higher than Edmunds, but it still meets my criteria (under $10k, under 80,000 miles, automatic). Is this particular model known for being reliable/unreliable? Anything I should watch out for? Carmax don't allow you to have it inspected by someone privately before purchasing, which makes me extra nervous. I don't have long to shop around since I am moving from one state to another and start a new job within a few days of the move (I also have to drive 2 hours to the city where I'll be working, so getting a reliable car within a day or two seems vital). I only have $3k to put down at the moment and am under 25 so would have to pay far too much to rent a car while I save up to buy something outright. I've driven a 97 Cavalier and a 00 Prizm before and was quite happy with them, I just worry I won't have the time to find a reliable car like that and have it inspected before moving.
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Jul 12, 2011 02:35
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The 2.5L had a bad case of "engine exploding randomly" disease but the 1.8L seemed reasonably well put together. Neither have a timing belt so no worry about that being done. If you look at other models in that 70-80K miles range take a pass if the timing belt has not been changed yet unless you feel like shelling out $1-1.5K to get it done within a year of buying it. If its the 2.5L stay away because that engine is a giant piece of poo poo, if its the 1.8L stay away because its $9K for an 8 year old japanese econo-box with 72K miles on it. I get the whole "used car market is crazy high right now" thing but I have to think you can do better.
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Jul 12, 2011 03:34
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Arzakon posted:The 2.5L had a bad case of "engine exploding randomly" disease but the 1.8L seemed reasonably well put together. Neither have a timing belt so no worry about that being done. If you look at other models in that 70-80K miles range take a pass if the timing belt has not been changed yet unless you feel like shelling out $1-1.5K to get it done within a year of buying it. The 2.5L wasn't that bad. I think a lot of its problems were blown out of proportion. I had one in my '03 Altima and it didn't give me any problems for 100k miles. The issue was with the catalytic converter, if it was damaged, it would somehow allowing particles back into the engine which would then cause a ruckus. I don't remember exactly but I do rememeber it could be an issue if you drove a lot on dusty roads. Regardless I think there were only a couple of reported engine fires and there was an immediate recall on the engines anyway. link
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Jul 12, 2011 13:02
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My wife and I have decided to buy a new car. We have both bought used cars over the years, but neither of us has bought a new car before. We know what we want, and we have gotten a quote from a dealer. We have not given anyone any money yet. My wife is of the impression that if you are special ordering something then you don't have much room to bargain, but I disagree. Consumer Reports advertises a new car buying guide in their magazine, but unfortunately it is not yet available for the 2012 model we're looking at. Is this report, or other ones, worth the money? CR's is $14, another I saw was $40. What more information do I need to effectively negotiate a price beyond dealer invoice, dealer incentives/rebates and holdback? Anything I should do or absolutely should not do?
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Jul 14, 2011 02:57
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What are you getting and define special order? You can certainly haggle on it, and if it is something at all common that is all the more reason to haggle around. In the case of my dad, he special ordered his car from a dealer out of state that he never even set foot in. They made a hell of a deal and arranged to have it delivered to the local Chevy dealer with the absolute lowest delivery fee.
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Jul 14, 2011 05:57
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IOwnCalculus posted:What are you getting and define special order? You can certainly haggle on it, and if it is something at all common that is all the more reason to haggle around. 2012 Chevy Cruze. By special order I mean choosing the options and colors and all instead of just picking one off the lot.
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Jul 14, 2011 06:09
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Okay, but with a Cruze your special-ordered combo will still probably be relatively common. You absolutely have some major haggling power here. Start off simple - shoot your request to every dealer in the area that can order your car. Keep going for a few rounds until you've got a price low enough to go for.
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Jul 14, 2011 06:24
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stubblyhead posted:2012 Chevy Cruze. By special order I mean choosing the options and colors and all instead of just picking one off the lot. There is no such thing as a special order Chevy Cruze dude. Don't let the sales person fool you into thinking otherwise. The dealer has access to every combination through thier network.
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Jul 14, 2011 18:07
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Arzakon posted:The 2.5L had a bad case of "engine exploding randomly" disease but the 1.8L seemed reasonably well put together. Neither have a timing belt so no worry about that being done. If you look at other models in that 70-80K miles range take a pass if the timing belt has not been changed yet unless you feel like shelling out $1-1.5K to get it done within a year of buying it. Thanks for the feedback. I'm just worried I won't be able to find anything else on such a tight schedule. Would a 2004 Chevy Aveo with 38k miles be better? Same price.
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Jul 15, 2011 20:51
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amethystbliss posted:Thanks for the feedback. I'm just worried I won't be able to find anything else on such a tight schedule. Would a 2004 Chevy Aveo with 38k miles be better? Same price. wait, nine grand for an '04 Aveo? That's about what they were new,  Also, Aveos are terrible, one of the most terrible vehicles you can buy. It's a rebadged Daewoo.
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Jul 16, 2011 15:01
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Invoice on the aveo in 2004 was 9k. You shouldn't be spending more than 4k maybe on one, but they are poo poo poo poo cars. Terribly uncomfortable as well.
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Jul 16, 2011 15:25
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