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Honestly, I dig it. And I kind of even like the faux-Aston NB. I feel dirty admitting to somewhat liking a bodykit, let alone a fake-exotic kit. VVV Oh poo poo, I think you're right that is a coupe. Guinness fucked around with this message at 05:17 on Jun 24, 2011 |
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Jun 24, 2011 04:31
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Did someone rice out a MX-5 COUPE? And shaved the door mirrors?
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Jun 24, 2011 05:02
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Piano posted:
Goddammit, who is that bitch with the umbrella. She's blocking the NA! 
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Jun 24, 2011 06:12
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Barchetta is some tuner makes that shorty console and I guess that's their demo cars. All of them rule. In the context of being crazy japanese demo cars.
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Jun 24, 2011 07:13
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Ziploc posted:I want a better picture of that bumper on the riced one. Never seen it before. Here it is, I don't think it's too terrible compared to all the other poo poo I see on cars all the time:  To be honest I didn't notice the mismatched paint, it just looks to be due to lighting angle, but it's hard to tell in those photos. Yeah the ad for the unriced one says 15" wheels, and as I said, I do prefer it in every way, I was trying to figure out if it would be enough to offset the probably literal pain in the rear end of driving so much in a Miata.
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Jun 24, 2011 08:14
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mobby_6kl posted:Here it is, I don't think it's too terrible compared to all the other poo poo I see on cars all the time: Who makes it? The brit in my club wants one.
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Jun 24, 2011 15:26
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Piano posted:
 Is that NC wearing blackface?
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Jun 24, 2011 17:27
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So, a friend of mine owns a turbo 99 that he doesn't really drive anymore since he bought a Genesis Coupe. He said he would be willing to let it go for $3,000 sans the turbo. I remember him complaining about a year ago that the car kept blowing coil packs, is this a common problem? What is the cause? Are their any other known issues with the '99 that I should know about?
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Jun 24, 2011 22:15
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Why would you want it without the turbo?
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Jun 24, 2011 22:44
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The 1999 and 2000 cars just eat coilpacks. If you're having issues with the ignition, you need to swing by Vatozone and get NGK blue wires and see on RockAuto who has coilpacks.
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Jun 24, 2011 22:50
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Phone posted:The 1999 and 2000 cars just eat coilpacks. If you're having issues with the ignition, you need to swing by Vatozone and get NGK blue wires and see on RockAuto who has coilpacks. *knock on IKEA particleboard* My old '99 is still running perfectly at just shy of 110k miles on what I believe to be the original coil packs...if they aren't, then they were replaced at least 60k miles ago before I bought it. Go figure. The only other '99-specific issue I can think of is the fuel filler issue, but almost all of them have had it fixed as far as I know. If you encounter it, get familiar with spending a lot of time at the gas pump filling it up a tenth of a gallon at a time.
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Jun 25, 2011 00:13
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IOwnCalculus posted:The only other '99-specific issue I can think of is the fuel filler issue, but almost all of them have had it fixed as far as I know. If you encounter it, get familiar with spending a lot of time at the gas pump filling it up a tenth of a gallon at a time. This is infuriating, but I at least know which pumps nearby exhibit the problem less, and I've figured out that if you angle the hose towards the back-left corner of the car it happens far less often. Yep, too lazy to really fix it :P
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Jun 25, 2011 02:18
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mobby_6kl posted:Looks like the riced one is 99-00 and the non-rice is 2001+. Also the non-rice doesn't have those round fender lights
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Jun 25, 2011 16:50
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Ziploc posted:Who makes it? The brit in my club wants one. I have no idea, but maybe somebody else would know though, otherwise I'd gladly take it off for your friend there if he wires me the cash for the car  cantfly posted:Looks like the riced one is 99-00 and the non-rice is 2001+. Also the non-rice doesn't have those round fender lights The ads say they're both 2001, but maybe that's the first registration or something (or they're lying). I think you're right either way, the riced one has blue gauge dials while the other one has white onces, which according to wikipedia is a sign of the 2001 facelift. Based on the comments above about the coil packs and fuel filler, I assume the 2001 would generally have stuff like that sorted out? I'm now pretty firmly on the side of the stock car and I'll try to arrange everything next week, hopefully I'll be able to join the  club soon.Do '99 cars generally go for $3,000 in the US? These are almost €6k 
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Jun 25, 2011 23:20
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mobby_6kl posted:Do '99 cars generally go for $3,000 in the US? These are almost €6k I dunno about other places but I would sell my NA and buy a 99 for $3k in a heartbeat. E: maybe not sell the NA, flippy flop lights and all :3
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Jun 25, 2011 23:21
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Bought my 04 MSM about 6 months ago, have been loving every minute of it. I haven't had a chance to autocross it yet but my job is switching from weekends to weekdays so I'll actually be able to attend some events in the near future. Looking forward to building upon my driving skills!
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Jun 26, 2011 00:05
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Saw a later-model NB today that was white with tan top. Never seen it before, really a great combination (even knowing what a pain in the rear end white cars are). Too bad it was poorly riced.
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Jun 26, 2011 00:07
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mobby_6kl posted:I assume the 2001 would generally have stuff like that sorted out? I'm now pretty firmly on the side of the stock car and I'll try to arrange everything next week, hopefully I'll be able to join the The 2001+ cars have a completely different coilpack arrangement.
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Jun 26, 2011 02:37
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mobby_6kl posted:Comon. Someone give me a lead on this.
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Jun 27, 2011 03:18
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Ziploc posted:Comon. Someone give me a lead on this. I think it was made by a dead german company. Buethe Motorsport.
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Jun 27, 2011 03:31
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mobby_6kl posted:Do '99 cars generally go for $3,000 in the US? These are almost €6k Before the stars aligned and I ended up trading my '99 to my mother-in-law, I was going to list it for somewhere around $5k give or take - with an oil change past 100k miles, a three-year-old Robbins top, an okay interior and some oxidized silver paint on the hood and windshield frame. Still would've been the cheapest NB on Craigslist locally.
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Jun 27, 2011 07:09
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Phone posted:The 1999 and 2000 cars just eat coilpacks. IOwnCalculus posted:The only other '99-specific issue I can think of is the fuel filler issue, Thanks guys. I'm glad to see that this is a known problem and can be fixed. Now I just need to sell the idea of a second car to my girlfriend and wait for my friend to get back to the states. n8r posted:Why would you want it without the turbo? Honestly, because it is a home-brew kit that I don't think he ever got running right. For the next two years, I won't have a place to work on cars, so I need this to be as reliable as possible.
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Jun 27, 2011 15:44
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I've got a 2000 Miata with about 130k+ miles on it and when the clutch is in when rolling slow or neutral I get a rubbing sound that comes and goes. Also when I put in the clutch it makes some little sparkly tinny sound, its a really soft sound.I have no idea what this could be and I don't want the little guy to die on me.
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Jun 28, 2011 03:11
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IOwnCalculus posted:Before the stars aligned and I ended up trading my '99 to my mother-in-law, I was going to list it for somewhere around $5k give or take - with an oil change past 100k miles, a three-year-old Robbins top, an okay interior and some oxidized silver paint on the hood and windshield frame. Still would've been the cheapest NB on Craigslist locally. Thanks, this makes me feel like I won't be overpaying, both 1.9 and AC are pretty rare and it seems to be in good condition. Since the car I'm looking at is pretty far away (like 600km total), what should I ask the seller before I head out there? It's looks like a pretty big seller and they have a 12 month warranty on everything so it should be pretty safe, I think. How do I figure out what rear-end does it have? Could rust be an issue in Hamburg? It's a harbor, but then it doesn't seem to go below freezing too much so they won't have to salt the roads like crazy... I have a few backup options if this one doesn't work out for some reason, like this 2002 Phoenix edition or this clean 2002, though I'd need a small loan to cover the extra €1k without ending up penniless until the next payday. Feel free to have a look at those cars if you notice anything of interest/fishy.
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Jun 28, 2011 10:15
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Cobra Commander posted:I've got a 2000 Miata with about 130k+ miles on it and when the clutch is in when rolling slow or neutral I get a rubbing sound that comes and goes. Also when I put in the clutch it makes some little sparkly tinny sound, its a really soft sound.I have no idea what this could be and I don't want the little guy to die on me. First noise might be a wheel bearing or maybe dragging brake pads. The second one I'd guess is the heat shield.
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Jun 28, 2011 11:19
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Has anybody here either swapped their early NA to a torsen LSD or driven them back to back? Managed to score a complete Torsen setup (diff, axles, rear brakes, driveshaft) for $150 and I'm trying to decide how excited I should be to install it (I have lots of other toys to work on). My '92 is tons of fun to drive but not exactly powerful enough to spin the tires regularly (and it's VLSD equipped).
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Jun 29, 2011 05:50
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Wrong thread  
destructo fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Jun 29, 2011 |
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Jun 29, 2011 21:55
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That must be chalk or something. Certainly not wheelspin and why is it in the miata thread?
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Jun 29, 2011 22:02
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Blaise posted:Has anybody here either swapped their early NA to a torsen LSD or driven them back to back? Managed to score a complete Torsen setup (diff, axles, rear brakes, driveshaft) for $150 and I'm trying to decide how excited I should be to install it (I have lots of other toys to work on). My '92 is tons of fun to drive but not exactly powerful enough to spin the tires regularly (and it's VLSD equipped). If you don't notice the inner wheel spinning on tight corner exits, your not going to notice a Torsen.
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Jun 29, 2011 22:45
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Ziploc posted:If you don't notice the inner wheel spinning on tight corner exits, your not going to notice a Torsen. On tight corners I sure do. I meant otherwise whether it's a noticeable difference other than the slight loss of gearing. I'll just get to it when I can.
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Jun 29, 2011 23:00
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Have to figure out some codes on a 1990 (not mine). I don't have a code reader, possibly one at work, so I'm going off of third-hand information. Any help would be... helpful. First is supposed to be an EGR control valve solenoid, which I'm not familiar with. Second is supposed to be a coolant temp sensor, which I think is the sensor on top of the union right in front of the motor attached to the hose that comes out the top of the rad - is that right? It's also throwing an airbag light but I'm pretty sure it's just the clock spring. I'll see about getting some real codes when I get to work, as it is all I've got to go on is that, google, and a lovely haynes manual, so I'll take anything I can get at this point. While I'm on it, the car has a very rough idle and a real bad flat spot at about 2k rpm. I suspect it's the TPS or perhaps a vacuum leak. Could it be related to the EGR?
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Jun 30, 2011 13:02
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Your car isn't OBD-II so the code readers like newer cars use won't work. Your car doesn't have a TPS. EGR should be on the back of the intake manifold near the firewall. Not sure about the coolant temp on the 1.6Ls. EGR codes I believe can be cleared by cleaning out the passages in the intake manifold. Do a search on miata.net.
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Jun 30, 2011 13:30
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Thanks, I'll check out miata.net when I get home. FWIW I made a mistake, the rough idle is indeed a 90 but the codes are coming from the 96. What kind of difference does that make?
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Jun 30, 2011 17:54
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Blaise posted:On tight corners I sure do. I meant otherwise whether it's a noticeable difference other than the slight loss of gearing. I'll just get to it when I can. A torsen is pretty indistinguishable otherwise. You may notice that it's more tail happy in the wet too. Basically you will be trading inside wheelspin for traction/oversteer.
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Jun 30, 2011 18:17
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$500 white hardtop buy-it-now in michigan. No affiliation but some goon should get this. Click fast.
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Jun 30, 2011 21:32
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Piano posted:$500 white hardtop buy-it-now in michigan. No affiliation but some goon should get this. Click fast. ugh, figured as much. \/\/\/\/ destructo fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Jul 1, 2011 |
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Jun 30, 2011 22:17
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destructo posted:$799 It was 499, guess he decided to not be stupid. The seller has revised the following item information: Date Jun-30-11 Time 14:03:44 PDT Buy It Now Price
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Jun 30, 2011 22:22
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gently caress the rear calipers on a NA, by the way. Piston-retracting screws? really? gently caress you guys.
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Jul 1, 2011 00:15
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Tactical Bonnet posted:gently caress the rear calipers on a NA, by the way. Piston-retracting screws? really? gently caress you guys. This is pretty common, what is so bad about it? I bet you'd be crying a river if you had a drum e-brake instead.
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Jul 1, 2011 00:24
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FatCow posted:Your car isn't OBD-II so the code readers like newer cars use won't work. Coolant temp is screwed into the back of the head, near/underneath the coil pack, with a green plastic body... I think. The one on the front 'union' is the radiator fan sensor - that's the thermostat under there. http://www.miata.net/garage/CoolingSystemProblems.html
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Jul 1, 2011 00:25
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