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I'm looking at buying a new car here in the next week or so. I've been looking to trade in my car for about 6 months now, and finally am in a position where I can do it. The question I have is this...I just left my job of 13 years at Best Buy to take a job at a friend's software company, where I'll be making a bit more money. Now, I haven't officially started at the new place yet, but I have moved on from Best Buy. When I talk to the salesperson, where should I say I work? I know they look at time at current job, but salary at the new job is better...
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Jul 22, 2011 02:45
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I'm in the market for a used car right now and about to start applying for loans and I basically know very little about what I'm doing. My credit score is laughable at ~600, but I have 3k for a down payment, plus a trade in worth about 2k and my (salaried) job, which I've had for a year now, will cover up to a ~300 car payment with a reasonable budget. I'm not too worried about being able to get financed at a dealer, but that's not my first choice. Specifically I've got my eye on a 2002 subaru WRX, $10k and 100k miles. I've heard people complaining about the difficulty of getting a loan for a car with over 100k miles-- is that a major deal breaker for lenders? I applied for a loan on a similar car with my bank earlier this year and was denied, but was never told why. Am I going to be wasting my time trying?
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Jul 22, 2011 04:25
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an audible groan posted:I'm in the market for a used car right now and about to start applying for loans and I basically know very little about what I'm doing. My credit score is laughable at ~600, but I have 3k for a down payment, plus a trade in worth about 2k and my (salaried) job, which I've had for a year now, will cover up to a ~300 car payment with a reasonable budget. Are you really young? You need to consider insurance isn't going to be cheap on a WRX. Also yes, it can be hard to get loans on high mileage vehicles. You will probably get stuck with a really lovely interest rate.
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Jul 22, 2011 04:53
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an audible groan posted:I'm in the market for a used car right now and about to start applying for loans and I basically know very little about what I'm doing. My credit score is laughable at ~600, but I have 3k for a down payment, plus a trade in worth about 2k and my (salaried) job, which I've had for a year now, will cover up to a ~300 car payment with a reasonable budget. What's the status of your current vehicle? I think your best option will be to keep driving that for a while longer and save every penny you can, then buy something in the 7-8k range for cash. If you're trying to build up credit, get a credit card, be responsible with it, and pay the thing off every month.
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Jul 22, 2011 04:59
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Medullah posted:I'm looking at buying a new car here in the next week or so. I've been looking to trade in my car for about 6 months now, and finally am in a position where I can do it. The question I have is this...I just left my job of 13 years at Best Buy to take a job at a friend's software company, where I'll be making a bit more money. Are you talking about financing at a dealer? New new car or new to you used car?
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Jul 22, 2011 05:09
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Don Lapre posted:Are you really young? You need to consider insurance isn't going to be cheap on a WRX. Also yes, it can be hard to get loans on high mileage vehicles. You will probably get stuck with a really lovely interest rate. I've priced out insurance and it isn't bad. I've also come to terms with probably (definitely) getting a poo poo rate, hence the desire to get a car on the cheaper end of what I can afford in order to be able to pay it off in a shorter period of time. My car has been in a slow decline for the past year or so and has pretty much made it clear that the economical option will be getting out sooner rather than later. I'm already working on fixing my credit and it'll probably be closer to 700 in a few months, but I don't know how much more money I'm going to have to throw at my current transportation in that time.
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Jul 22, 2011 06:24
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Since this thread is about the finances of owning a car and not of only buying new (to you) ones, can I get some insight on my car I've had since I started driving? I'd ask in AI but I felt that BFC would better feel my pain about being broke while trying to figure this out. (TLDR: skip to the question, maybe mechanic problem) Car problem: Starting a few months back my ABS would kick in for no apparent reason, and I wouldn't be able to come to a stop for 5, 10, sometimes 15 feet after I meant to. I nearly got in a few accidents, scared the crap out of me. It happened frequently for a good couple weeks, but hasn't acted up in about a month. Sometimes the ABS light would come on, sometimes not. I took it to a Just Brakes for a free visual inspection, but eventually the guy told me he couldn't check my ABS system without some special tool that his manager had but had left with that weekend. His guess (after he had me put my hand on a wheel to show me it wobble) was that the bearings were slipping or something, causing the ABS to think I was skidding even when I wasn't. I asked my cousin mechanic in another state and she said that sounded reasonable, I asked about prices to fix something like that and she said she'd expect around $200-300. Mechanic problem: My coworker's good friend was supposedly a great mechanic who fixed coworker's car for half the price the dealership would have charged. I took it to him Wednesday and explained the problem. We left it there and after he had the wheel off he explained that he thinks the problem was that my (look like brand spanking new) brake pads, since they are metallic, can tend to slip and "that is the noise you are hearing" so he recommended I put in organic brake pads, and do something about my rotors? (He had a really strong Hispanic accent, it was difficult to understand him over the phone) I was confused, since everyone else I talked to made it sound like the bearings. And since I've been told twice that my brake pads are just great, I was hesitant to get new ones. I also didn't understand how my ABS light would come on because of my pads. And I stressed that it wasn't just a noise, it was pulsing. Sometimes for crazy long distances. Basically I made it clear that I was really hesitant to go through with this, but he talked to my boyfriend on the phone (I'm car-stupid and wanted someone to help me make this decision) who gave him the go-ahead. He calls 7 hours later to say that he was done, but it is still pulsing. I'm frustrated, because it's been behaving for a month, and he "fixes" it and suddenly it's pulsing in the ~block he test drives it in. Question: Do I have a legal/ethical right to not pay him in full for his services if he made my problem worse even though I expressed a lot of doubts? Or since I gave him the go ahead do I have to suck it up? Is there a middle ground we could fairly reach, like I pay for parts but he eats labor? Can I ask him to put my old pads back since they weren't a drat problem in the first place? Is that even something they can do? I'm just frustrated with how little I understand cars, and that I trusted a professional to help me through the problem, but it ended up with me blowing $150 on nothing. I know 150 is chump change in car repair, but my rent is due in a week and now I won't have enough to "fix" anything else the car truly needs, all so that my car can be unsafer to drive in the end. Besides, that's more than half of a paycheck for me. I pick up the car in the morning, and I guess will pay him then. Hopefully I can get some advice here before I head up there. I'm having panicky insomnia about finances, so that's why I'm posting at 4:30am. My emotions right now might not be rational, so take my boo-hoos with a grain of salt. Also, if my car terminology/logic didn't make sense then I apologize. Like I said, I'm car-stupid so please laugh at my expense. 
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Jul 22, 2011 10:42
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It sounds to me like maybe his grasp of the English language isn't all that and that he may have misunderstood. Maybe he doesn't know the word pulsing or something and thinks you were just complaining about noisy brakes? On the other hand a bad wheel bearing also shouldn't trip the ABS system since the sensor is usually located on the hub/bearing itself so a wobble shouldn't really affect it. Unless it's really bad or a weird design or something. My sister-in-law's Bonneville had ABS problems and it was due to a frayed wheel speed sensor wire. Every time the wire came into contact with the surrounding metal it would ground out and the ABS system would flip out. Could be something as simple as that (requiring electrical tape if you're cheap, or a new sensor if you want to fix it properly). To answer your financial question, yeah you have to pay him. You (well, your boyfriend... you should be mad at him!) OK'd the work he said he was going to do and he did it, even though it didn't fix the problem. Maybe you can have him lower the price due to a misdiagnosis, but he did the work he agreed to do.
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Jul 22, 2011 13:01
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Unplug your ABS fuse. It will disable your ABS but no ABS is much safer than the way yours is malfunctioning. As far as what happened, yes you still need to pay. What kind of car is it?
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Jul 22, 2011 14:31
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IOwnCalculus posted:Unplug your ABS fuse. It will disable your ABS but no ABS is much safer than the way yours is malfunctioning.  I want to stress how awful I feel for suggesting I not pay (the whole amount). My coworker is awesome and her friend has been so nice and otherwise helpful, I want him to get paid! I just... don't want to pay for backwards steps. If the fix was $500, fine, I'll borrow from parents and pay that if it fixes it for good. I just hate the unknown + missing money feeling. Thanks for the help, guys. CornHolio thanks, the more I understand about how ABS works the better.
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Jul 22, 2011 14:56
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drat Bananas posted:Thanks for the help, guys. CornHolio thanks, the more I understand about how ABS works the better. I'm not a mechanic by any means, so take this with several grains of salt. I have been in contact with a car that had this issue. The pulsing brakes felt exactly the same as what you're describing, but it turned out to be warped front brake rotors. Maybe have someone take a look at those?
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Jul 22, 2011 15:56
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Grumpwagon posted:I'm not a mechanic by any means, so take this with several grains of salt. I have been in contact with a car that had this issue. The pulsing brakes felt exactly the same as what you're describing, but it turned out to be warped front brake rotors. Maybe have someone take a look at those? Pulsing brakes are one thing, but pulsing brakes that cause you to overshoot your stop, combined with an ABS failure, screams ABS system issue. I'm sure the brake shop won't disable ABS because it's a bit of a kludge and they don't want to be on the hook for you locking them up and killing a bus full of orphans. But, I think I would rather treat the car as non-ABS and pull the ABS fuse, than to wonder every time I stop in traffic if I'm going to stop when I should or 30 feet further. If you intend on keeping the car you should certainly get the system more thoroughly diagnosed (and since there is no standard on ABS computers like there is for engine management, even just pulling the codes from it will be a pain in the rear end) but disabling it temporarily is as simple as finding your owner's manual, looking up the fuse box diagram, and finding which fuse or relay is labeled ABS, and removing it. Your ABS light will stay on, and if you panic stop you'll need to properly threshold brake. Edit: You may want to call a dealer. A few hits on Google indicate there was a recall on some '98 and '99 Rodeos for ABS problems. Should be able to call them up and give them your VIN and find out A) if your vehicle was subject to it and B) if it ever had the work done. Question then is, with Isuzu out of the consumer vehicle market, who do you call? IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 17:01 on Jul 22, 2011 |
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Jul 22, 2011 16:52
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Since this is BFC, I just gotta pile in and say what you probably already know, Bananas: If you are going to own and operate a motorized vehicular contraption, you need to be able to afford important repairs. If $150 is a huge financial burden on you, you probably cannot afford to be driving, period. That's harsh, but seriously, there are any number of perfectly ordinary problems that can crop up with a vehicle of that age (or hell, of any age, out of warranty) that will cost $500 to fix. If you rely on that car to get you to work or whatever, you need to save up some spare cash in an emergency-car-fixin'-fund and have that in reserve. I'm not even talking about serious failure that might zero-out what the car is worth; just stuff like suspension, transmission, electrical stuff; various wear components that you can expect to have to replace or fix once in a while. I mean, can you even afford to replace your tires when they wear out?
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Jul 22, 2011 20:19
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Got caught in a flash flood on Tuesday evening, engine bogged down and cut out (I did not try to restart it) and as I was waiting for a friend to show up (10 mins max), water had accumulated inside the car up to the bottom of the door jams. At this point I got out of the car, and waited another 10 minutes for my friend to show up. I had the car in nuetral already, so when he showed up we just pushed and I didnt notice how much water was in the car at this point. I have a WAI intake on it, so no intake tubing runs below battery level so I doubt(ish) that water got in the intake. Although, standing next to the car before pushing it water was above my knees. We got it pushed to higher ground, and it got towed the next day. Today is Friday, the insurance company still hasn't stopped at the shop to inspect it, the shop refuses to touch it (Which is fine by me). So the wet carpets and everything has just been sitting with no airflow because the windows have been rolled up this whole time. I had/have kickpanel enclosures that were actually custom made for me by a member of this site last winter that were completely submerged, and when the car was sitting before the tow truck showed up the front right tire was sitting at an angle between this | | and this / /. I called the shop to see if the Insurance people have contacted them yet, and apparently the insurance people might get there by next Tuesday. With the wet poo poo sitting in a car with no airflow for a week, and all that, how likely is it that they will just write the car off? It is a 2000 Nissan Altima GXE (so cloth seats, no power seats) 92.5K miles, and had minor body damage before this.
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Jul 22, 2011 21:37
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The answers you got to this question in the AI stupid questions thread are correct. It is likely your car will be written off. Also it sounds like your insurance company sucks. Taking over a week to get damage inspected is inexcusable.
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Jul 22, 2011 22:31
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Leperflesh posted:The answers you got to this question in the AI stupid questions thread are correct. It is likely your car will be written off. If it's Progressive, sounds about right. Took them nearly two weeks to decide whether or not my Miata was totalled.
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Jul 22, 2011 22:36
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IOwnCalculus posted:If it's Progressive, sounds about right. Took them nearly two weeks to decide whether or not my Miata was totalled. This made me laugh, it is Progressive. And sorry for posting about it in so many places, I figured that this area of the forums might have more insurance goons that could give me the aspect from their mindset, whereas AI has been great at telling me whats probably all wrong with it. Goons are great when Google Fails 
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Jul 22, 2011 22:40
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If your engine bogged down and shut off then water got into it. Its probably hosed though you could possibly pull the spark plugs and crank it a few times and possibly get it going again, if water got into the interior it will most likely be written off though.
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Jul 22, 2011 23:13
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JackRabbitStorm posted:This made me laugh, it is Progressive. Funny thing is, they were paying my rental coverage too. It's not like they didn't have an incentive to get it done quickly, and what they had to look at on mine was a lot less involved than yours...relatively low speed hit directly on the driver's front wheel.
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Jul 22, 2011 23:22
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Insurance adjusters like that are usually subcontractors. The insurance company goes with local outfits who come inspect the vehicle. The problem comes in when your insurance company has some kind of preferred arrangement with like, one tiny outfit, and refuses to use someone else if they're overbooked or Joe is on vacation or whatever. I have no idea if this applies to Progressive. But Amica has had someone on-site to inspect damage for me three times now, and in every case, they've managed to get someone there in like 3-5 days. JackRabbit, I didn't mean to sound like I was chastising you for cross-posting; your reasoning is, well, reasonable.
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Jul 23, 2011 00:20
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Leperflesh posted:Since this is BFC, I just gotta pile in and say what you probably already know, Bananas: If you are going to own and operate a motorized vehicular contraption, you need to be able to afford important repairs. If $150 is a huge financial burden on you, you probably cannot afford to be driving, period. So I should just quit going to my job until I can afford hypothetical transmission problems? I'm not sure if they'll keep paying me if I do that! It's not that I can't afford $150 to fix my car, it's that I can't afford to throw $150 at the car a few times and end up nowhere, or in this case, moving backwards and being even less safe. I do have some savings bonds that I ended up not using for college so I do have something to fall back on. It is strictly my "poo poo just went down" fund, like if my car is totaled or I lose my job. I refuse to acknowledge they exist when I still have money in my checking account. I'm skimming near the bottom of that right now (taking into account next week's rent/bills) so that's what I'm trying to be careful of. Also my tires look new. I live 1.5 miles from work/grocery store/bank/pet store, so my wear-and-tear is at a minimum. Grumpwagon, that was actually the thing the mechanic suggested, the $150 was for new pads and to machine the rotors (I learned a new verb!). He quoted me 200 for the same except with new rotors, but I'm a cheap rear end so I went for the former. So now that that didn't work, I'm looking at $250 (for everything) for the new rotors. He did that, and test drove and said it's fixed. Who knows if the problem is truly solved (it went symptomless for a month, remember), but this sounds like good news to me. I'm happy to pay $250 for a safe car. e: well, now the ABS light is on constantly. I'll have to look into that recall, I didn't know about it. Thanks, thread! vvv I was referring to the tires Damn Bananas fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Jul 24, 2011 |
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Jul 23, 2011 01:29
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drat Bananas posted:I live 1.5 miles from work/grocery store/bank/pet store, so my wear-and-tear is at a minimum. Actually, if you're driving those distances in isolated trips, the wear on your motor will be no lighter than if you were commuting a long distance.
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Jul 23, 2011 01:42
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Leperflesh posted:Insurance adjusters like that are usually subcontractors. The insurance company goes with local outfits who come inspect the vehicle. Thanks for the info! Stopped by the car today (3 days after the incident) and the car is raunchy, smells disgusting inside and my carpets are still soaked.
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Jul 23, 2011 04:01
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Leperflesh posted:Insurance adjusters like that are usually subcontractors. The insurance company goes with local outfits who come inspect the vehicle. The only subcontractor employees that big insurance companies (Progressive, GEICO, Allstate, SF) use are in remote areas where they don't have a local presence. It will be a company employee.
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Jul 23, 2011 05:03
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Bovine Delight posted:The only subcontractor employees that big insurance companies (Progressive, GEICO, Allstate, SF) use are in remote areas where they don't have a local presence. It will be a company employee. I don't actually think they have a physical presence in my area (Central Wisconsin)
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Jul 23, 2011 05:09
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When I mean remote, I'm talking middle of nowhere Montana/Wyoming/Alaska. There is an office that services that area. The rep is a Managed Repair Rep who travels to different locations for the inspection.
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Jul 23, 2011 05:12
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I may be approaching a decision of when to call it a day with my car. It's a 1998 Dodge Neon with 260,000km on it, and still on the original transmission (although the switch from 1-2 is a bit out of adjustment, it doesn't shift until the revs are a bit too high). I don't drive it much, but it goes through a quart of oil in a few months of driving, which would be 500-1000kms. The coolant was down a bit recently too and I swear the bottle looked a little dark, but I haven't gotten around to opening the check valve to see if there's poo poo in it. Also the brakes will need some attention soon, especially because there's at least one rotor with some warping to it. Last time I had it in for service work about 2 years ago, they replaced the valve cover gasket, spark plugs, a motor mount, and a tie rod end, and told me I had slightly low compression on one cylinder. And last but not least, a couple of weeks ago, when I went to pass someone on the highway, the car stalled out and wouldn't start up again for a few minutes. On the plus side, the check engine light isn't on. Anyway, in about a month the car will have to pass my region's smog test, and I'm wondering if I should just junk it if it fails the test. If the head gasket is indeed screwed, then that's probably at least $700, plus whatever else they find, which seems like a lot to spend when the transmission could pass on at any moment. Going car-less is definitely an option for me, so I wonder if I should just take the plunge. big shtick energy fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Jul 23, 2011 |
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Jul 23, 2011 21:08
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drat Bananas posted:So I should just quit going to my job until I can afford hypothetical transmission problems? I'm not sure if they'll keep paying me if I do that! It sounds, actually, like you don't need a car in order to get to your job, so, no. But all I was really getting at is, many folks fail to save adequate money to keep their car in working order. When you depend on your car for your livelihood, that is a ticking financial time-bomb. In your case, it sounds like you do have some savings, and even better, unless you live in the mountains or something, if worse came to worst you could ride a bike, take a bus, roller skate, or even just walk to work. As for the more general advice: it seems clear to me that your anti-lock brake system is having a problem, and your mechanic did nothing to address that, preferring to do a regular brake service (which you might well have needed). While I wouldn't say you've been ripped off necessarily, I do think you need to find a different mechanic - one who listens to you when you tell him what the problem is.
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Jul 24, 2011 17:29
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I'm going to need a car pretty soon for college, but I frankly have no idea where to start. My question is - I'm on a limited budget (probably $3000-4000), so is it possible to find a car that won't break down the moment you purchase it? I don't know anything about maintaining a car, and I don't really have any mechanically inclined friends either, so what should I be on the lookout for? I just need a small, efficient car (preferably manual transmission, as that's what I'm used to driving) to get from apartment to school and work.
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Jul 24, 2011 17:33
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Shipon posted:I'm going to need a car pretty soon for college, but I frankly have no idea where to start. My question is - I'm on a limited budget (probably $3000-4000), so is it possible to find a car that won't break down the moment you purchase it? I don't know anything about maintaining a car, and I don't really have any mechanically inclined friends either, so what should I be on the lookout for? I just need a small, efficient car (preferably manual transmission, as that's what I'm used to driving) to get from apartment to school and work. You absolutely can get a good deal on a reasonable econo-box to get you around for $3-4K. The problem is that people are holding onto their cars longer nowadays so you have to look harder to find a good deal. I'd recommend a Corolla as they are dead simple to work on, reliable, have cheap parts available everywhere, and aren't that hard to find in a manual transmission.
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Jul 24, 2011 17:42
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DuckConference posted:It's a 1998 Dodge Neon with 260,000km on it... Sell it as soon as possible, don't look back. quote:My question is - I'm on a limited budget (probably $3000-4000), so is it possible to find a car that won't break down the moment you purchase it? The problem is that all cars break down sometimes, even the ones that have a reputation for reliability. The best you can do is always have money available for car repair by keeping a money buffer. Some people will recommend a specific car but really it comes down to what you want and what you can find. The standard advice is to buy a used reliable model from Toyota/Honda/Nissan/Acura/Mazda. However, domestic brands have been rapidly improving in recent years and the used car market for fuel efficient imports is really crazy right now, check out the thread about it in AI. Whatever you chose, you can arrange to have a mechanic check out a private party car for you before you buy it, or at least read up and bring along a printed out inspection checklist from the internet.
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Jul 24, 2011 18:43
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kimbo305 posted:Are you talking about financing at a dealer? New new car or new to you used car? Oops sorry. Buying a new Jeep from a dealer with employee discount, likely just financing through them. Although I'm not opposed to going elsewhere for the financing if there may be a better deal. My credit score right now isn't terrible, but it's not great. I have about a 680 last time I looked. My biggest hit is the fact that I have tons of credit card debt, which I plan on paying off within a month if the plan goes into play. Should I wait til I have the cards paid off to get the car, since my open credit will be higher, or do it now while I have the 13 years of Best Buy employment history behind me?
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Jul 24, 2011 19:04
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Medullah posted:My credit score right now isn't terrible, but it's not great. I have about a 680 last time I looked. My biggest hit is the fact that I have tons of credit card debt, which I plan on paying off within a month if the plan goes into play. This plan sounds awesome but I don't know how to put it into a book so I can make tons of money. Please complete step 2 below. 1. Purchase Jeep 2. ??? 3. Credit Card Debt Disappears Joking aside, getting your Debt to Income and reducing your revolving credit will probably have more of an effect on your credit than employment history.
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Jul 24, 2011 19:31
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Why is it that the week you pay off your car, it craps out and costs close to $4k to get it fixed?
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Jul 24, 2011 21:35
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Omne posted:Why is it that the week you pay off your car, it craps out and costs close to $4k to get it fixed? What the hell happened to it? I can't think of anything save a new engine that would cost that much.
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Jul 24, 2011 22:28
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CornHolio posted:What the hell happened to it? I can't think of anything save a new engine that would cost that much. Pretty much everything related to the drive train, suspension, brakes and steering
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Jul 24, 2011 23:06
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Sounds like you weren't keeping up on it.
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Jul 24, 2011 23:57
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Leperflesh posted:It sounds, actually, like you don't need a car in order to get to your job, so, no. But all I was really getting at is, many folks fail to save adequate money to keep their car in working order. When you depend on your car for your livelihood, that is a ticking financial time-bomb. And yeah, unfortunately the brake service did nothing, my ABS light came on during the drive home. I'm looking into the recall of '98 Rodeos now.safecar.gov posted:Summary:
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Jul 25, 2011 00:40
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Omne posted:Pretty much everything related to the drive train, suspension, brakes and steering So did you simultaneously drive full-speed over a curb and into a large puddle while neutral-dropping it? I really don't see how it's physically possible to destroy all of that at once let alone on a car new enough for you to be making payments on. Are you a 16-year-old girl with hundred dollar bills hanging out of her pockets taking a high-end Mercedes to the shadiest dealership in the country?
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Jul 25, 2011 02:31
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How badly does an accident affect your trade-in value these days? As far as KBB is concerned I owe less than what my focus is worth for trade-in... minus the fact that it was in an accident where both passenger side doors and half the airbags had to be replaced. I'm thinking about getting a newer (to me) vehicle and I'm hoping to work out a pay-off of the loan - or even come out a head if possible. But I'm worried they will see an accident and low ball. (Although for some reason I didn't see accident listed on the vehicle history report... so maybe someone forgot to mention it somewhere and this question is moot).
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Jul 25, 2011 13:00
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