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Exactly what a Miata needs is 150lbs of extra bumper, totally wrong scrub radius, and no suspension travel.
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Jul 29, 2011 05:36
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Somebody beat the poo poo out of that passenger door.  I'm working on making my car not look all pock-marked any more. 
Konrad fucked around with this message at 12:17 on Jul 29, 2011 |
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Jul 29, 2011 12:06
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I like the lower half of that black one's bumper. Why couldn't they just leave it with that part.
Sudden Infant Def Syndrome fucked around with this message at 13:29 on Jul 29, 2011 |
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Jul 29, 2011 13:27
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  Does this look like the Phoenix edition to you guys? The exterior and interior colors, wheels, and the equipment seem to suggest that it is, so with the 1.8 engine it should also have torsen rear end. It's a bit more expensive than I was considering, but once I add all the costs of a 1500km trip and other import-related expenses, it's about the same but 2 years newer (2003), has 1/2 mileage compared to my previous pick, plus is just 1 hour away from me. Anything particular I should ask the seller before I go for a test drive?
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Jul 29, 2011 15:43
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GD_American posted:Muuuuuccchhhh more in my wheelhouse. Thank you. No idea, I've never seen the car I just thought it looked fairly clean and well put together. I imagine most people looking for a Miata are looking for a cheap roadster and don't really care about the engine much. People looking for a faster/turbo one probably think that the Mazdaspeed version is the one to get. This one is kinda in the void. Too expensive for the year compared to stock ones, and most people also stay away from modded cars so it probably hasn't had a ton of interest. I'm of the opinion that unless it's electrical stuff, most mods are hard to mess up too bad so I'll let the previous owner take the loss on all the parts they put into the car. Granted, this whole car has been rebuilt engine wise and had a turbo added, but everything looks to be done well and tastefully. Might be worth calling him about, getting a ton more pictures of everything and potentially getting a plane ticket (if it's that far away). Hell, you could probably offer him a bit less for the car since it hasn't sold in so long. I look at the money I've put into my NA and see that I could easily have what he's selling for less than I have into mine...And I have a stock engine (though it is also turbo'd).
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Jul 29, 2011 22:11
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It is a massive gamble though because regardless of whether or not it works, you are still taking on somebody else's project and all of the issues that come with it. Buying a used properly turboed Miata can be a phenomenal deal.
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Jul 29, 2011 23:48
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Auburn's only about 2.5 hours away from me, so that's nothing but a day trip. The only thing that gives me pause is that I absolutely must have it for a daily driver, and something that's been modified to the ragged edge of reliability would leave me without a job in short order. That's compounded by the fact that my wrenching skill level is still pretty novice, so diagnosing any trouble from a heavily modified system might be a bitch (as well as fixing it). It certainly looks like a phenomenal deal, and I'm still kicking it around in my head. It's probably only a 2-3 grand upgrade after I sell my LS.
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Jul 30, 2011 00:26
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Heres a Q My NA came with a spec 1 clutch and it shudders pretty bad sometimes when leaving from a stop. If I am very careful with how I let it out I can make it go away completely. It usually involves me letting the clutch almost all the way out so the car is just about to move and giving it gas just before it would conk out. I have never had a automatic car so its not like Im inexperienced with a manual and my other car is a DSM with a ACT 2600. Is it just a symptom of this brand of clutches or could it be something worse like a leaking seal or fly wheel needs resurfacing? Really the shuddering doesn't bother me, I just worry it would break something.
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Jul 30, 2011 01:22
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streetlamp posted:Heres a Q Possibly the pressure plate isn't strong enough or the flywheel has hotspots or something. I've been driving manuals for over 20 years (with some autos mixed in) and shuddering usually isn't a good thing. It's also possible that you need to build more heat up before the clutch runs smoothly... sort of like performance brakes. Just some ideas...
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Jul 30, 2011 03:35
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I'm not sure if anyone remembers me, but I had a white '97 that was totaled a couple of years ago. Well, it was only a matter of time until I bought another.  1995. 155,000 miles. BBS wheels from a '95 M-edition.
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Jul 30, 2011 04:54
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What is this part?  DSC_0003.jpg by Krakkles, on Flickr Slightly below center of image, bolting into the back of the hub assembly at the end of the LCA. Closer photo:  DSC_0004.jpg by Krakkles, on Flickr Edit: If I'm reading my Haynes correctly, that's the balljoint. Followup question, assuming that's right: Good places to buy these online? Do they require any special tools to replace (they don't appear to). Edit 2: Found them on rockauto for $25/each. Also: Steering rack when the balljoint broke looked like this:  IMAG0058 by Krakkles, on Flickr But now it looks like this:  DSC_0001-2.jpg by Krakkles, on Flickr It appears to have hooked itself back up. Aside from replacing the sleeve and visually inspecting, is there anything I should be on the lookout for? Bonus pic for camber morons:  IMAG0056 by Krakkles, on Flickr Krakkles fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Aug 1, 2011 |
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Jul 31, 2011 21:50
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Yes that is a lower ball joint. Replace the boot over the inner tie rod end as well. If too much dirt gets into there it will eat itself. After you get it all back together give the wheel a good hard shake with hands/bottom and front/back. Everything should be very tight. Slop that isn't coming from the steering rack moving is bad.
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Jul 31, 2011 22:46
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Krakkles posted:What is this part? Impressive mechanical failure! Go post this over here in the Horrible Mechanical Failures. How on earth did that happen?
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Jul 31, 2011 23:34
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GD_American posted:Auburn's only about 2.5 hours away from me, so that's nothing but a day trip. The only thing that gives me pause is that I absolutely must have it for a daily driver, and something that's been modified to the ragged edge of reliability would leave me without a job in short order. That's compounded by the fact that my wrenching skill level is still pretty novice, so diagnosing any trouble from a heavily modified system might be a bitch (as well as fixing it). Probably not the best idea then. Just buy an s2000 for that money. Reliability and faster.
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Jul 31, 2011 23:42
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Beach Bum posted:Impressive mechanical failure! Go post this over here in the Horrible Mechanical Failures. Done. It happened because I ignored a clunking sound. Luckily it happened in a parking lot. Won't be doing that again!
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Jul 31, 2011 23:48
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DreamOn13 posted:Probably not the best idea then. Just buy an s2000 for that money. Reliability and faster. That's been an idea in the back of my mind. Last time I looked years ago you couldn't touch one for under 20k; would I have trouble finding a relatively rice-free one?
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Jul 31, 2011 23:59
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GD_American posted:That's been an idea in the back of my mind. Last time I looked years ago you couldn't touch one for under 20k; would I have trouble finding a relatively rice-free one?
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Aug 1, 2011 00:10
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Be sure to check insurance, if such a thing matters to you. I almost got an S2k in 2008 as an upgrade from an '05 Saturn coupe (I was 28y/o at the time, so, over the <25 hump). My premium was something in the neighborhood of $100/month with the Saturn, getting the Honda would have made it ~$150. I got a Porsche instead (~$105), figured if i was spending more, it might as well be for the car rather than insurance.
televiper fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Aug 1, 2011 |
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Aug 1, 2011 04:24
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Eh it looks like an S2000 is a little more than I wanted to spend anyway. For example, the very best example of an NB I'm looking for has 12,000 miles, a hardtop, and they're asking 16 for it (and I could probably get them down to 14 or lower). I'm figuring mine is worth maybe six in a trade-in. Plus I know a hell of a lot more about NBs than an S2000. I have no idea what to look for or much about the differences in years and models, really. I'm still super happy with how my NB drives, I just want a nicer one is all. Maybe with a little more nutsack.
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Aug 1, 2011 04:38
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I'd at least drive an S2000, it's going to have significantly more nutsack, if that's what you want.
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Aug 1, 2011 14:20
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The Third Man posted:I'd at least drive an S2000, it's going to have significantly more nutsack, if that's what you want. I'd love to. I fully admit I'm bouncing around like a pinball on this. The trouble is that they're not made new anymore, so I can't just go to the dealership and thrash one around a testdrive. I doubt someone selling their personal car is willing to let me do the same. The only one I've seen at dealerships around here is a Club Racer they want 28k for, and....no.
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Aug 1, 2011 14:50
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Anyone know what I could sell my miata for? 2000 LS 135k miles, tb/wp/new wheels/tires/suspension in the last year and a half.     It recently got hailed, hood has alot of hail dents, some others scattered around.
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Aug 1, 2011 19:13
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Time for new tires. A couple of years ago, I was riding on Falken Azenis RT-615. I see that Falken replaced the 615 with the 615K. Are there any better performing newcomers to this category of tire that I should be aware of?
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Aug 2, 2011 00:07
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Dunlop Star Specs, Hankook R-S3
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Aug 2, 2011 00:10
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Big fan of the star specs over here.
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Aug 2, 2011 00:26
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Long story short, if you buy anything besides the RS3s or Star Specs in that category, you're dumb. Also if you find RS3s, post it, no 225/45/15s anywhere
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Aug 2, 2011 00:47
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I'm going to go with the Star Specs. I don't think the R-S3s are made in 14" sizes.
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Aug 2, 2011 01:01
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Grayham posted:I'm going to go with the Star Specs. I don't think the R-S3s are made in 14" sizes. They're not, but I like the R-S3's a lot more than the Dunlops.
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Aug 2, 2011 03:23
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Look at all these high rollers and their hundred dollar tires. $65 Yokohama S drives, half the price... some of the performance?
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Aug 2, 2011 03:30
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Piano posted:Look at all these high rollers and their hundred dollar tires. I got my 225/45-15 R-S3's for a mere $75 
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Aug 2, 2011 04:17
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Piano posted:Look at all these high rollers and their hundred dollar tires. The stretch crowd love S.drives. My friend has them on his NB and they are colossal pieces of poo poo.
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Aug 2, 2011 04:32
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crutt posted:Anyone know what I could sell my miata for? Any pics of what it looks like now? I'm interested, but live over in Philly.
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Aug 2, 2011 04:35
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I bought some Paradas on closeout at Tire Rack and I gotta say, at 60 bucks a tire, my non-autocrossing rear end is happy
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Aug 2, 2011 04:47
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Phone posted:The stretch crowd love S.drives. Way to insult my tires bud
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Aug 2, 2011 05:17
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crutt posted:Anyone know what I could sell my miata for? Depending on how bad the dents are, I'd maybe start at 5.5k and hope for 4.5-5. For reference I bought a 99 with the same mileage, hard top, etc for 4.5k a few months ago
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Aug 2, 2011 05:35
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Piano posted:Look at all these high rollers and their hundred dollar tires. I remember when I could buy Azenis for $65 each. Boy, tires have gotten expensive.
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Aug 2, 2011 12:18
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I'd like to improve the feel of my brakes. I had Hawk HPS pads on my last Miata and I didn't find that they made the brakes feel any better until they were really warm. Would changing the flexible portions of my brake lines to stainless steel improve the feel? I was looking at these or these.
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Aug 4, 2011 01:39
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GD_American posted:I bought some Paradas on closeout at Tire Rack and I gotta say, at 60 bucks a tire, my non-autocrossing rear end is happy I used my Paradas on a hot track day last year at Buttonwillow and was impressed with how well they held up. Never got greasy or went off even at the end of a 15 minute session
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Aug 4, 2011 06:06
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Piano posted:Look at all these high rollers and their hundred dollar tires. You wanna save $150 on the most important part on your miata? Feel free but I think it's money very well spent.
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Aug 4, 2011 17:31
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Most important part of my miata is my chrome ac vent rings.
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Aug 4, 2011 18:22
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