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I maek tank The vinyl tracks were a pain, but otherwise I'm pleased with the result. My weathering skills seem to be coming along nicely.  1/72 is a nice scale.  The many grab handles on the turret required much work. I can confirm now that Rodan's rep. for brittleness is well deserved. A nice kit otherwise.   Made up as a Soviet "guards" division tank, circa 1947. Notice the star on the ammo box!  
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Jul 9, 2011 19:26
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Very nice looking IS. Which one of the series is it? It looks a bit too bright compared to the camo paint of Soviet tanks. I don't like vinyl tracks all that much either, but they don't look too bad.
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Jul 9, 2011 19:33
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Ensign Expendable posted:Very nice looking IS. Which one of the series is it? It looks a bit too bright compared to the camo paint of Soviet tanks. I don't like vinyl tracks all that much either, but they don't look too bad. Looks like an IS-3, is it the Roden one?
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Jul 9, 2011 20:39
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Raskolnikov38 posted:Looks like an IS-3, is it the Roden one? Yep, that be it. The green darkens considerably when not in direct sunlight, though I must confess I just picked the green because I thought it looked good, rather then trying to find out what the proper authentic green was.
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Jul 10, 2011 19:40
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I made a little mini-diorama with a Tamiya figure and a few spare weapons I had lying around.    I'm mostly happy with how it turned out, except for the few parts where you can see the glue for the rocks. The rocks were a pain in the rear end to attach, too, since my glue didn't dry fast enough.
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Jul 13, 2011 03:55
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Ensign Expendable posted:
You mean the winter frost 
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Jul 13, 2011 10:43
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I just bought my first model kit since I was a child, an Academy M1126 Stryker ICV in 1/72nd scale. I am terrified.
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Jul 13, 2011 22:32
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Gooch181 posted:I just bought my first model kit since I was a child, an Academy M1126 Stryker ICV in 1/72nd scale. Remember, if you don't do it completely perfectly this first time we will post pictures here of this model you attempted and all mock it ruthlessly Seriously though, high-five, if you got any questions please post
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Jul 14, 2011 03:45
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Oh man I should have bought a larger model to start with. I put the stryker's ramp together and attached it to the hull no problem, but building the suspension onto the bottom of the hull involved these iiiitty bitty pieces that the instruction sheet does an awful job of explaining how to put them on. I don't want to mess this all up on step three.  EDIT: I am getting annoyed by the hair-like strands of glue that sometimes find themselves branching between my finger and the model. Is this just because I have lovely glue, or is there a method for dealing with glue troubles? My next model is going to be bigger and I'm going to actually buy some nice glue. Gooch181 fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Jul 14, 2011 |
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Jul 14, 2011 17:22
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Yeah, that's a problem with really small models, especially ones where the plastic is really brittle and snaps when you try to get parts off the sprue. As for the strands, what kind of cement are you using? I find that Tamiya cement, while more expensive that the Testors tubes, doesn't suffer from that problem.
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Jul 14, 2011 21:21
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I broke a few pieces but I managed to mend them well enough to attach. At least they are on the underside of the hull, and pretty much obscured by the tires and whatnot. I was using just regular rear end testors, but I snagged up some "craft" crazy glue with a nice little applicator and things seem to be going much, much better. Also, I'm pretty confident that nothing will be as hard to figure out and glue together than the suspension. EDIT:  WIP Picture, apparently the one glue I have turns an ugly white when you put too much on, which is unfortunately most of the time for me still. I've managed not to break anything else yet, but give me time. :/ Also god drat I can not get these headlights to sit in a spot that I feel comfortable gluing them, I'm thinking about filing the bottoms of them flatter and just winging it, but ugh. Gooch181 fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Jul 15, 2011 |
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Jul 14, 2011 21:55
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Gooch181 posted:I am getting annoyed by the hair-like strands of glue that sometimes find themselves branching between my finger and the model. Is this just because I have lovely glue, or is there a method for dealing with glue troubles? Try not to get glue on your fingers, and drop whatever you doing and clean it off when you do. Oh, all the clear canopies I smudged before I learned this. Save that stringy glue, too. It can be used for all sorts of stringly projects. Recreate Shelob's lair, for instance. Maybe make rigging on a teeny little ghost ship, if you can get it to behave well. I remember I had this one tube of Testor's, back when it was REAL glue. When it was near the end, the stuff would come out as a sluggish, heavy-skinned ball that could be manipulated. I took a tiny origami boat I made that was about a quarter of an inch long (I had to use a pair of straight pins to finish it), and pushed it into a ball of the stuff, and cut it off the end of the tube, and I had a wee magic crystal ball that foretold of ocean voyages!
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Jul 15, 2011 18:52
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Package came in! This is going to keep me busy for a while. It's going to be interesting to see how the cossack kits from different manufacturers compare.
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Jul 26, 2011 03:53
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Tanks? Figures from WW2? I'm sorry to say we've been doing it all wrong.
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Jul 30, 2011 04:39
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What the tentacle-raping christ?
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Jul 30, 2011 10:35
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gently caress. My brain. 
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Jul 30, 2011 15:11
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Well, I suppose if you like food for the visuals but everything you make isn't quite perfect enough you can get some satisfaction from gently caress I can't finish. Though I guess it's no less silly than giant robots and there's a legit fake food industry for dessert trays and displays in restaurants.
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Jul 30, 2011 19:53
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That's true, on the other hand most things modeled do not actually take more work then making the actual thing And of course, you could make an awesome candy tank
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Jul 30, 2011 20:12
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Nebakenezzer posted:That's true, on the other hand most things modeled do not actually take more work then making the actual thing Real food rots, turns colors, melts, gets crusty, and a million other things that make it look unappetizing. Fake food has no problems with this. It's a pretty huge industry; almost all commercial photographs of food are of fake food.
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Jul 31, 2011 00:07
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Nebakenezzer posted:And of course, you could make an awesome candy tank poo poo just got real in Candy Land. Anyway, can cars play in this thread too? There's obviously a poo poo-ton of military stuff, but all I've done is cars and bikes. However, I have wanted to try my hand at a plane.
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Jul 31, 2011 01:38
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Anyway, can cars play in this thread too? There's obviously a poo poo-ton of military stuff, but all I've done is cars and bikes. However, I have wanted to try my hand at a plane. Pretty much anything is welcome here. It's just been really tank heavy the past few months.
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Jul 31, 2011 05:36
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:poo poo just got real in Candy Land. Yes, it's pretty much a free for all. A guy built an awesome boat that everyone was drooling over a few pages back.
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Aug 2, 2011 19:42
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Well, sorry to nerd up your thread guys, but i've got some Gundam models heading my way, and I was wondering if anyone experienced in that field have any tips for me in regards to the best way to do panel lining, what kinds of paints to buy, etc.
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Aug 3, 2011 18:10
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TaurusOxford posted:Well, sorry to nerd up your thread guys, but i've got some Gundam models heading my way, and I was wondering if anyone experienced in that field have any tips for me in regards to the best way to do panel lining, what kinds of paints to buy, etc. We don't care for your kind 'round here  Actually you are welcome here but there is thread dedicated to that in the anime forum.
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Aug 3, 2011 18:27
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Oh, sorry about that. Thanks for the link.
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Aug 3, 2011 18:31
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No problem. Since you asked, in scale modeling you can accent panels by doing a wash. You dilute a dark paint, and then paint it on with a brush. Then, using q-tips dipped in thinner, you remove most of the paint, leaving the dark stuff as a highlight. If you have an airbrush, you can also shade the panel lines a dark color, and then paint around the panel lines using something lighter. I don't know if these techniques translate to giant robots, though.
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Aug 3, 2011 18:39
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Pre-shading is something I've been meaning to try out on my Valkyries, if I ever get around to building them.....
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Aug 3, 2011 21:13
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Nebakenezzer posted:I don't know if these techniques translate to giant robots, though. They do. Armor is armor, be it a box with wheels or a 30-foot tall human shape. Some people make their models bright and shiny, like they appear in the source material, while others weather them like they've spent time outside. Neither approach is wrong; it's to your personal taste.
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Aug 3, 2011 21:59
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I think I'll share this if anyone else is interested. Over in AI, there's a aviation thread. A little while ago, someone posted this:iyaayas01 posted:If you haven't checked them out already, you really need to look at the rest of the Navy's Centennial of Flight paint schemes. They are all pretty sweet, but some of them loving rock...except for the stupid loving blue digicam one. Anyway, it occurred to me that it'd be easy to re-create a model of one of these, right down to the period markings. Then I realized that you could do what the US navy has done (period paint on modern aircraft) to whatever you wanted. I'm thinking a Luftwaffe Eurofighter painted up like a Me109 would be pretty cool.
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Aug 3, 2011 23:46
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Nebakenezzer posted:Anyway, it occurred to me that it'd be easy to re-create a model of one of these, right down to the period markings. Then I realized that you could do what the US navy has done (period paint on modern aircraft) to whatever you wanted. I'm thinking a Luftwaffe Eurofighter painted up like a Me109 would be pretty cool. Philadelphia Experiment 2 was a terrible movie but featured an F-117 with Luftwaffe markings, which was more than a little creepy. EDIT: vvvv I endorse the Samurai pens too. Midjack fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Aug 4, 2011 |
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Aug 4, 2011 05:08
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TaurusOxford posted:Oh, sorry about that. Thanks for the link. I do some Gundam and I use these for lining: http://www.sakuraofamerica.com/Pen-Archival My only comment is that they don't always give you a very dark black against lighter colored plastics, so you might have to go over the lines more than once. As far as paints are concerned, Gundam models are generally polystyrene just like regular models, and so basically any model paints are going to work just fine. As with any plastic models it's a good idea to wash your parts and prime before painting.
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Aug 4, 2011 17:51
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52 wheels is excessive even for a tank. God drat it Harland & Wolf/Vauxhaull. God drat it.
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Aug 9, 2011 03:46
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Arquinsiel posted:52 wheels is excessive even for a tank. God drat it Harland & Wolf/Vauxhaull. God drat it. Churchill mk.IV? Tigers have a comical 8 rows of interleaved road wheels.
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Aug 9, 2011 23:54
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The Airfix Mk. VII. Lots of german stuff has interleaved wheels but even the halftracks don't have wheels THIS tiny and fiddly.
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Aug 10, 2011 00:50
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Thought i'd take up a new hobby. This is my first go at scale modelling, a Tamiya Panther tank. Its nearly done! I know there is a hideous mold line on the barrel 
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Aug 14, 2011 21:38
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Looking pretty good, especially for a first go! Did the barrel come in one piece or two? If it's one, just sand off the mold line. If it's two, you will probably have to fill in the crack with putty and sand it down. Are you going to weather it or leave it like that?
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Aug 14, 2011 21:46
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Ensign Expendable posted:Looking pretty good, especially for a first go! Did the barrel come in one piece or two? If it's one, just sand off the mold line. If it's two, you will probably have to fill in the crack with putty and sand it down. Barrel is two piece, i guess ill have to get some putty for my next model. I have washed it with brown which you can see in the picture, the yellow was quite sandy coloured before. I've done a bit of dry brushing since, what else can i do to weather it a bit?
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Aug 14, 2011 21:55
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Add some rust in various places, smoke marks around the muzzle brake and exhaust vents, mud on tracks and wheels, scratched metal in places with lots of friction. If you're feeling adventurous, you can try getting a soldering iron or something similar and making a dent or two for non-penetrating hits.
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Aug 14, 2011 21:59
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Ensign Expendable posted:Add some rust in various places, smoke marks around the muzzle brake and exhaust vents, mud on tracks and wheels, scratched metal in places with lots of friction. If you're feeling adventurous, you can try getting a soldering iron or something similar and making a dent or two for non-penetrating hits. Thanks that sounds like exactly what i need. unfortunately i don't know how to add rust. maybe make a orange colour wash and add it that way? Any good tips for scratches and exhaust soot?
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Aug 14, 2011 22:09
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I just dry brush some orange-brown paint on for rust. As for soot, it's probably easy to do with an airbrush, but I have to live with just dry brushing black. If you practice it a bit, it looks pretty good. For scratches and worn metal I use chrome silver or aluminum paint. Also, I use a toothpick instead of a paintbrush for extra precision.
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Aug 14, 2011 22:20
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