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Cheers for the replies guys but there is no manual mode on the sunpak, looks like I may have to put my hand in my pocket and get some remote triggers....
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Aug 4, 2011 16:39
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quote:Several posts of good advice Cheers guys! I know this isn't PAD but it's really useful to get an objective opinion
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Aug 4, 2011 18:14
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Random question but has anyone tuned in/bought any of the seminars offered at creativelive ? I've tuned in last week's seminar and I loved the experience but I would love to know if someone could point me out the ones they appreciated the most on there.
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Aug 4, 2011 19:59
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xenilk posted:Random question but has anyone tuned in/bought any of the seminars offered at creativelive ? I've tuned in last week's seminar and I loved the experience but I would love to know if someone could point me out the ones they appreciated the most on there. I watched most of the one from last week and it was okay. It wasn't one of their better ones, even though I like those two guys. It seemed like it didn't need to be 3 days. If you're going to buy one, I would go with one of the Zack Arias workshops.
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Aug 4, 2011 20:14
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I'm going to Universal Orlando tomorrow; thoughts about bringing my DSLR? I'd like to, but I'm going to be riding everything and am very hesitant about leaving it at the 'bag drop' on the rides. It's probably a bad idea. Anyone brought a DSLR to a large amusement park and can share their thoughts? lament.cfg fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Aug 4, 2011 |
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Aug 4, 2011 21:08
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Duct tape it to your hand, no problemo
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Aug 4, 2011 21:25
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Perfect time to go check out the 35mm or toy camera thread! (Yeah, I wouldn't bother with a dslr, you'll just carry it around and hate yourself.)
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Aug 4, 2011 23:25
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traveling midget posted:I'm going to Universal Orlando tomorrow; thoughts about bringing my DSLR? Haggins goes regularly to DisneyWorld. I took my 5Dii to Disney, with the 24-105 on it, but I didn't ride much in the way of vigorous rides.
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Aug 5, 2011 00:19
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traveling midget posted:I'm going to Universal Orlando tomorrow; thoughts about bringing my DSLR? I mostly shoot at Disney but since I'm from Orlando, I've been to Universal a few times. It's going to be very crowded and very hot this time of year (I think today was 104F and 90% humidity). Carrying a lot of gear with you will be a burden. If you bring your DSLR, I'd suggest just bringing the body and a zoom lens or a single prime if that's your thing. Also don't count on being close to your car if you park there, it's a very, very long walk to the parking garage. The difference between shooting at Disney and shooting at Universal is that at Disney it's not a problem to bring your camera on almost every ride. At Universal you won't be able to on the more extreme rides, which are mostly at Islands of Adventure. I believe these rides have lockers for your stuff but I can't remember if they're free or not.
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Aug 5, 2011 03:51
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Okay, so help me resolve an argument... One of my friends asked me to submit some pictures for a show of pictures of life around the world one of her friends is putting up at a cafe. I've been talking to the organizer by email and he insists on my sending him the digital files because that's what all the other people have been doing and he's going to print them himself on glossy paper on "a regular printer" (his words, not mine) at home.  I'm also not going to be able to attend the show, since it's 800 miles away. Am I wrong or weird for not wanting to participate unless I can send actual prints? I realize the perspective of those posting here is probably going to be closer to mine than the other people involved.
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Aug 6, 2011 15:41
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Why do you care? Is there a prize involved for you? Otherwise just email the jpgs
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Aug 6, 2011 15:52
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MrBlandAverage posted:Okay, so help me resolve an argument... One of my friends asked me to submit some pictures for a show of pictures of life around the world one of her friends is putting up at a cafe. I've been talking to the organizer by email and he insists on my sending him the digital files because that's what all the other people have been doing and he's going to print them himself on glossy paper on "a regular printer" (his words, not mine) at home.
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Aug 6, 2011 15:59
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MrBlandAverage posted:Okay, so help me resolve an argument... One of my friends asked me to submit some pictures for a show of pictures of life around the world one of her friends is putting up at a cafe. I've been talking to the organizer by email and he insists on my sending him the digital files because that's what all the other people have been doing and he's going to print them himself on glossy paper on "a regular printer" (his words, not mine) at home. Not weird at all. I have been asked to send files to people a few times, but have told them that I would be happy to send them a completed print at my cost instead. I am no famous photographer, but I would not want my name to be on some poorly done print of one of my shots.
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Aug 6, 2011 21:04
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Are eneloops still the rechargable battery to get? I need to replace my energizer batteries badly, as they are completely empty even after only a month or two off the charger.
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Aug 7, 2011 16:05
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Kazy posted:Are eneloops still the rechargable battery to get? I need to replace my energizer batteries badly, as they are completely empty even after only a month or two off the charger. I like Powerex better, unless you need the slow discharge. They're available on Amazon. 2700 mAh AAs.
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Aug 7, 2011 16:59
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Where is a good place to get large prints of pictures? Large as in poster size or slightly smaller. Also anyone have a site that does the rundown of the different printing options/papers? I also live in NYC if that makes a difference, I figured online would be cheaper but maybe local is here since there's no shipping cost.
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Aug 7, 2011 20:31
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Kazy posted:Are eneloops still the rechargable battery to get?
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Aug 7, 2011 22:28
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5436 posted:Where is a good place to get large prints of pictures? Large as in poster size or slightly smaller. Also anyone have a site that does the rundown of the different printing options/papers? I also live in NYC if that makes a difference, I figured online would be cheaper but maybe local is here since there's no shipping cost. I'd also want some opinions on this. Also would 16x20 be a good size for a print from a DSLR or would it be too much enlargement?
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Aug 7, 2011 23:03
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evil_bunnY posted:you trade capacity and output for retention. You decide whether it's worth it. Yeah, I think I'll go with the eneloops. Currently there is no use having batteries with more capacity if they won't keep the charge. Or maybe just get a few of both and keep the eneloops as my standby. Are NiMH battery chargers standard? Or does it matter which brand battery charger I use?
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Aug 7, 2011 23:58
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It'll be fine. In general you can get a rough estimate of how well something will print by multiplying the print dimensions by the dpi or by dividing the pixel dimensions the dpi. Most places will print at around 300 with 150 being considered the low end. Max print for an 18mp image (5,184 × 3,456): 17.3 x 11.5 in (ideally) 34.6 x 23.0 in (realistically) There are also other things to consider. If the picture is intended to be viewed from afar, then you can get away with lower print resolutions. Canvas prints will also tend to be printed at 150. If you feel you want more resolution or you want to see every tiny detail of your giant print then you should learn to shoot panoramas.
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Aug 8, 2011 00:00
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Kazy posted:Yeah, I think I'll go with the eneloops. Currently there is no use having batteries with more capacity if they won't keep the charge. Or maybe just get a few of both and keep the eneloops as my standby. Are NiMH battery chargers standard? Or does it matter which brand battery charger I use? There are good chargers and bad chargers, so buy something well regarded. As for self-discharge, it entirely depends on what you're using them for. if, for example, a flash, normal, high capacity is likely better. Just charge them before you plan to use, they'll give more shots. For me, anything I use a rechargeable for, I'd rather have higher capacity. For long term use, like remote controls, I use non-rechargeables.
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Aug 8, 2011 00:11
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INTJ Mastermind posted:I'd also want some opinions on this. Also would 16x20 be a good size for a print from a DSLR or would it be too much enlargement? At 20x30 her P&S shots were clear and sharp. Your DSLR will produce images that will look good at 30x40 or larger, if you are up for it as a photographer. At such large sizes, the medium being printed on (paper of various grades, canvas, etc) and the skill of the printer matters as much as or more than the camera that took the picture. I've seen wall-size posters (36x48, 50x60, larger) from fairly modest cameras that looked great.
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Aug 8, 2011 01:25
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Could someone quickly explain to me why you lose sharpness when setting a very small aperture with some lenses? If I understood correctly, you often lose sharpness at large apertures because there is a lot of stray light bouncing around the lens. Why do we get a similar effect at very small apertures as well though?
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Aug 8, 2011 10:28
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FLX posted:Could someone quickly explain to me why you lose sharpness when setting a very small aperture with some lenses? If I understood correctly, you often lose sharpness at large apertures because there is a lot of stray light bouncing around the lens. Why do we get a similar effect at very small apertures as well though? http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-series/u-diffraction.shtml
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Aug 8, 2011 10:57
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5436 posted:Where is a good place to get large prints of pictures? Large as in poster size or slightly smaller. Also anyone have a site that does the rundown of the different printing options/papers? I also live in NYC if that makes a difference, I figured online would be cheaper but maybe local is here since there's no shipping cost. Adorama pix does good prints (I've printed some 20x30 through them and it looks really nice) and they have free pickup, which is nice. Good prices too.
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Aug 8, 2011 17:19
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For the average ProAm, how important are blogs? I've just revamped my main portfolio site, and I'm debating whether or not to continue bothering with a blog. I have the portfolio page, I have the facebook page, and I have the blog. Is it necessary? I've had a fair bit of traffic, but it's almost all referral. People clicking on it from forums that I frequent, or my spam to twitter/facebook/G+ when I've made a new entry, and more often than not, its a few pics, what i've been doing lately, etc. I'm not Chase Jarvis or Zack Arias, so no one's going to come looking for me on their own any time soon. The only post with decent 'new visits' traffic is an instructional entry on Dark Field lighting. Maybe having more instructional stuff and less "Internet strangers, look what i've done lately!" might help, if I continue to use it at all. Thoughts?
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Aug 12, 2011 04:31
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Oh god, bear with me. I want to make View-Master reels. While I need to learn all the gently caress about stereoscopic photography, at this stage I'm more concerned with getting from a digital file to a useable tranparency. 1) Is it possible to get digital photos converted to slide format but not cut/mounted individually, so you are left with a long strip of whatever you call a photographic negative when it's in proper colour? 2) Assuming 1 and knowing that the height of a View-Master reel window is 10.5mm, I should be able to (via photoshop) join two images together so the final size of each is 10.5mm x 15mm and still have it fit with the 36x24mm "exposure" on the printed film, right? 3) Does anyone know anything about DIY View-Master poo poo that doesn't involve the black box of sending away jpgs and getting the final product back hundreds of dollars later, or trawling eBay for 1950's tech? Crossposted in Stupid/Small questions in A/T and General Photography Questions in the Dorkroom.
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Aug 13, 2011 05:53
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 What is this colored crap on my image? A bad sensor?  It only came up when I set my camera to ISO100, when I was shooting at 200 it seemed fine.
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Aug 13, 2011 05:56
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Suicide Watch posted:
Looks like stuck pixels. Not uncommon with long exposures. I've noticed that I get them more frequently on long exposures as my sensor gets older. It's unusual that it would happen only at ISO 100 though. If you use something like Lightroom and shoot raw, it will fix those for you.
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Aug 13, 2011 06:04
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Dead Alice posted:Oh god, bear with me. 1) They are called positives, though the film is generally labeled slide film or color reversal film. 2/3) Google gave me this result. The guy had them printed on transparencies at Kinkos and then used glue and an Xacto knife to put them in an old reel. It worked, but I wouldn't trust the quality of a ink print and he even states you could see that it was printed. There are real ways to print digital to film, but I've never tried and don't know the process. You could always just take a photo of your screen/print and have the film developed. Edit:  Just realized I have a Nishika and a couple hundred viewmasters laying around. I'm guess I'll be picking up some slide film tomorrow...
TheLastManStanding fucked around with this message at 06:56 on Aug 13, 2011 |
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Aug 13, 2011 06:51
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Suicide Watch posted:
On my 350D in the custom settings theres an option for "long exposure noise reduction" which gets rid of this, so, erm, I guess if you shoot canon it might be worth having a look there.
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Aug 13, 2011 14:09
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AceClown posted:On my 350D in the custom settings theres an option for "long exposure noise reduction" which gets rid of this, so, erm, I guess if you shoot canon it might be worth having a look there. I'll try both this and shooting in RAW. I bought this camera used off KEH and I'm just about to expire on the return date, hopefully if there is a real problem they will let me return this camera if it's only 1 or 2 days beyond it. Edit: I just tried shooting with the lens cap on at various ISO settings, and don't get any stuck pixels. 
Suicide Watch fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Aug 13, 2011 |
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Aug 13, 2011 22:57
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Dead Alice posted:Oh god, bear with me. You need to find someplace with a film recorder. I used to get digital files burned to slide on occasion back when submissions for gallery shows and such were done with slides. I most recently did it in about '06 when getting high school student's photo AP submissions together before the AP board accepted digital submissions. It wasn't cheap, iirc it was somewhere around $2 per 35mm frame plus the cost of processing the slide film if you were doing it in bulk. Standard rates were higher and if you were looking to get something burned to medium format or 4x5 it was even more expensive. The results were very good though as long as they were using a good machine. I don't remember what specs to look for, but different film recorders have different maximum resolutions and dynamic range as well as colors. Unfortunately, the guy I used to use is long out of business. Before you plunk down your money know that all film recorders are not created equal - I have had some unusable slides made in the past from some places and had absolutely beautiful results from others. jsmith114 fucked around with this message at 15:11 on Aug 14, 2011 |
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Aug 14, 2011 06:24
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Lens for the zoo, which one? I have 18-70, sigma 70-300 macro non-IS and some primes. The Sigma seems like the obvious choice but it has a tendency to let me down unless the sun is blazing.
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Aug 14, 2011 10:37
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Update on the ViewMaster stuff: I just heard back from a photoshop in town who have a film recorder - $20.7 NZD (about $16 USD) per frame! Even if I can manage to squeeze two or even four images in to one, it's pretty loving pricey. I have however found a Nishika (also for about $20 NZD) online, new in box, so I'll be grabbing one of those.
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Aug 14, 2011 22:23
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Anyone have any tips for shooting in the rain in terms of exposure and protecting my gear? It's supposed to pour here tomorrow and I have nothing to do.
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Aug 14, 2011 23:31
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Thoogsby posted:Anyone have any tips for shooting in the rain in terms of exposure and protecting my gear? It's supposed to pour here tomorrow and I have nothing to do. Unless it's weathersealed, put it in a transparent plastic bag and shoot through it. Just a decent sized ziplock bag or someething. No worse than a plastic UV filter  Also, depending on temperature differences, KEEP it in the bag for a while when you bring it back inside, to avoid condensation.
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Aug 15, 2011 02:29
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Medusula posted:Lens for the zoo, which one? I have 18-70, sigma 70-300 macro non-IS and some primes. The Sigma seems like the obvious choice but it has a tendency to let me down unless the sun is blazing. Go for the 70-300mm macro for a zoo. Super closeup photos of things like lions that might be pretty far away are cool.
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Aug 15, 2011 07:14
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Cyberbob posted:Unless it's weathersealed, put it in a transparent plastic bag and shoot through it. Just a decent sized ziplock bag or someething. No worse than a plastic UV filter conversely, I use mine in a plastic zip lock bag regardless of weather when I want that holga look because even the best ziplock bag will mess up your image quality something savage. But that's not always a bad thing
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Aug 15, 2011 13:20
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I impulsively bought 41 expired rolls (from ~1998) of film ranging from ISO 100 to ISO 800 from Kodak and Fuji. When shooting with those, should I stick with the ISO that's on the roll or does the fact that the roll is expired change the film's sensitivity?
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Aug 16, 2011 02:19
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