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Grayham posted:As far as I know, a 1.6 in a '90-'93 is going to be just about as fast as a 1.8 in a '94-'97 just because of the added weight of the car due to more stringent crash test requirements. Nope. I don't know where you're getting this notion that the 1.6 cars are just as fast IF NOT FASTER than the 1.8s because of all of the weight that was added.
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Aug 7, 2011 15:40
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code:
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Aug 7, 2011 18:51
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Awwww yeah 99 
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Aug 7, 2011 20:05
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Area under da curve of the 2001+ motors makes them way better in practice than on paper. Just pulled the motor out of my 1997 again since my father was around to help out and it needed to be done. Hopefully the 55k mile 2005 motor that was around last month is still available. 
FatCow fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Aug 7, 2011 |
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Aug 7, 2011 21:06
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, in the seller's shoes I've had way, WAY too many people swear up and down they're coming to see the car today / getting in the car now / will see me in x hours, only to completely flake and never respond to another email / text / phone call again. First person to me with the right amount of cash in hand gets the keys and the title. In some cases that does mean at least one person gets pissed off...hell, in one case there were enough people banging down my virtual door (list a Volvo for $200 on CL sometime) that as I was handing the title to the new owner, I got an email stating that the ad had been flagged down. Yeah I've had people do that too but I've never double booked anyone. I've always let people know that I have someone else coming to look at a car I've got and if they don't want it I'll call the other guy back either way. I guess I'm just not a huge rear end in a top hat like most people selling poo poo on craigslist. Anyways, now that the cars that I wanted are gone there is nothing good for sale.
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Aug 7, 2011 22:21
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I generally let people know if I've got another interested party but cash is king. First person to put money in my hands takes it.
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Aug 7, 2011 23:06
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Phone posted:Nope. I don't know where you're getting this notion that the 1.6 cars are just as fast IF NOT FASTER than the 1.8s because of all of the weight that was added. I agree with Phone. 1.8 cars are pretty much always faster. The 1.8's torque more than makes up for the weight. It's not as smooth as the 1.6, but it will definitely shift the car faster. Both are still capable of balls of fun whatever you do with them.
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Aug 7, 2011 23:51
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Aug 9, 2011 05:38
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I was wondering when that would show up in here... I cried a little E: Oh god there's an eMac in the foreground! This is pretty much the most traumatic picture ever captured.
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Aug 9, 2011 12:45
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mobby_6kl posted:Just got back from checking out this car. There was some cosmetic damage that wasn't listed in the ad like a few scratches on the door and side mirror, but mostly as described - evidence of the front right wing being replaced, and a small dent in top of the trunk, nothing else major except the following that I found:
 It was along this join, except on the opposite side. Probably just some gasket/seal? They'll change the belt for like 30 bucks, but what about the rest? I'm not worried about the oil right now, but how much of a pain in the rear end could it be if it gets worse? Thanks to these discoveries they agreed to drop the price by just over $300, and an extra set of tires. PS. The tranny felt good, but seemed to take a bit more effort to get it into 5th, when pushing it to the right. Probably reverse as well, but I didn't try it. Is this normal?
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Aug 9, 2011 18:43
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Yes, it does take more force to get into the 5/R side of the gearbox, that's intentional. On the accessory belt...um...how? Miatas use tiny little belts, I don't see how any split of the belt could result in anything other than the belt getting completely shredded and flung from the engine.
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Aug 9, 2011 18:49
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That's good to hear, thanks. I have no idea, maybe it wasn't along the whole length, but I distinctly saw a split and could push on one closer edge of the belt without the other edge moving. Both my dad and the mechanic who was there (who tried to upsell me on a 2006 mini convertible for 2x the price) said they saw it as well after I pointed that out, so I don't think it's just me being retarded.
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Aug 9, 2011 19:17
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Anyone want a gauge cluster hood for an NB? Just pay for shipping. Some idiot previous owner bought the wrong one for my car and decided to stick it on anyway. Not surprisingly, it barely even fit and there were huge gaps. I finally got a proper one for mine today.
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Aug 10, 2011 02:50
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Well I got my Miata. It's a 91 1.6L base model with AC and PS. I got it for $2400. It needs a new top and has the 65mph shimmy at the moment. I also noticed that it has a little bit of a misfire when I was cruising at about 70mph on my way home to olympia from portland. It has a lot of little rock chips on the front end and some weird little repair on the left rear quarter by the bottom of the door. I'm going to have my friends dad check that out since he does auto body work. The interior is in really good shape and has a tonneau cover for the top. The guy just spent over $300 on the stereo stuff but I'm going to swap my alpine head unit in since it streams pandora through my iphone. He also had the timing belt, water pump and other various stuff serviced fairly recently. I also got all the service records and receipts from the whole time he owned it. Overall it's a pretty good car, good price, the color I wanted, and felt way better than that 94 1.8. It also left me with money in my budget to get the top replaced and maybe even get some koni's for it or a hard top. It does need better tires though, these zexius xi-326's on it suck rear end even though they're pretty new.   
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Aug 10, 2011 06:41
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NinjaTech posted:NEW MIATA! Congrats! I love that blue, and 2400 for a complete miata is pretty good around here. Enjoy your new car and welcome to the club!
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Aug 10, 2011 06:49
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Mezmerized Machine posted:Congrats! I love that blue, and 2400 for a complete miata is pretty good around here. Thanks! I love the blue too. So far it's been a blast driving around with the top down. Also love the cloth seats, they're so much better than the slippery leather in my friends old miata.
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Aug 10, 2011 07:18
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Mariner Blue is the best, if Mazda ever bring it back I'll buy 2.
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Aug 11, 2011 04:10
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Love the blue! Anyone have any experience with replacing the steering wheel? I'm hoping to go with something slightly smaller and somewhat closer towards me - I've got long legs and shortish arms. The goal is really to free up a bit more room to heel toe comfortably. I was thinking about something with a bit of a dish to it, and I'm comfortable deleting the airbag. I've considered a foamectomy but from what I've heard it doesn't work nearly as well on leather seats, especially old ones where the leather just tends to crack.
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Aug 11, 2011 04:29
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TrueChaos posted:Love the blue!
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Aug 11, 2011 04:32
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Miata just got hit and run on, drivers rear wheel got turned almost 180 in and fender is mooshed in good. Not really sure what to do. Car is only covered with minimum insurance and I dont have anywhere in the city to work on something like this. Im sure it would cost a good bit for someone to tidy that suspension up. Outside of lovely financial poo poo, I was loving this car 
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Aug 11, 2011 04:55
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^^Post some pics, might be able to determine what all it needs. Just noticed a huge scratch along the rear quarter of mine yesterday that wasn't there before. Mazda curse.
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Aug 11, 2011 12:25
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TrueChaos posted:Love the blue! The wheel is easy to take off. Please just remember to disconnect the battery before you remove the airbag.
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Aug 11, 2011 13:27
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Ya'll cant touch this stance swag 
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Aug 11, 2011 13:46
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As long as the body isn't tweaked where the control arm meets it, and as long as the diff isn't messed up, you should be able to get away with a new knuckle, maybe a control arm, etc. Minor stuff. I've seen way worse at LeMons races.
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Aug 11, 2011 14:30
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Looks way better this morning then when I was looking at it last night after being woken up. And apparently some Virginia law covers hit and runs so Progressive is covering it with a $200 deductible. Just worried about if the wheel or AGXs/ FM springs are messed up though I dont think they are.
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Aug 11, 2011 15:06
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Ok, so SO's 2001M keeps stalling. It runs then it starts cutting in and out on power then stalls. Its only after about 1/2hr of driving and normally on hot days. It wont restart until it sits for 10-15min. Then it will start again and run for some random amount of time until it dies again. The longer you let it sit the longer it will seem to run. Im thinking cam position sensor, does that sound about right? Edit: Has about 90k miles on it.
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Aug 11, 2011 22:11
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Sadi posted:Ok, so SO's 2001M keeps stalling. It runs then it starts cutting in and out on power then stalls. Its only after about 1/2hr of driving and normally on hot days. It wont restart until it sits for 10-15min. Then it will start again and run for some random amount of time until it dies again. The longer you let it sit the longer it will seem to run. Im thinking cam position sensor, does that sound about right? Sounds like a bad coil pack or ground.
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Aug 11, 2011 23:02
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destructo posted:For reference, the stock steering wheel is either 365 or 360mm, I forget. You'd probably want to find a 330 or 340mm wheel. Plenty of makes, I prefer Nardi. If you don't mind used (which I presume you won't, wheels are expensive), check http://tginferno.blogspot.com/ Nice, I'd never heard of that site. I'll def keep watch on there. grayham posted:The wheel is easy to take off. Please just remember to disconnect the battery before you remove the airbag. Yeah, don't want it going off on me. That wouldn't be fun. I was thinking about a momo mod 07 wheel - 350 mm Diameter, 70mm dish. The other one that I like is a sparco champion, 330mm Diameter, 66mm dish. They both look almost identical. Does anyone have any experience with the hub adapters? I have no idea how much closer the hub adapter brings the wheel, so I really don't know how much of a dish I should be looking for in a wheel. I think ideally I'd like the wheel to be ~2-3" closer than it is now.
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Aug 12, 2011 01:48
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A typical hub will bring the wheel like 3/4"-1" forward, if you want you can add a quick release and you're at probably right at 3-4 inches total.
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Aug 12, 2011 04:27
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IIRC Fatcow was saying that the Momo hub + NRG quick release brought the wheel towards you about 4".
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Aug 12, 2011 04:32
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Ok, trying to reassemble my car, and I can't get the castlenut on the upper ball joint - the BJ just spins when I try to tighten. What am I missing?
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Aug 12, 2011 04:56
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Try pounding in the ball joint, it might help it jam enough to have the nut come off.
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Aug 12, 2011 05:27
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Anti-seize on the threads might help too. it's a good idea anyway
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Aug 12, 2011 05:56
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How long should it take for me to install my complete torsen upgrade on my NA? It doesn't look too tough, I'm thinking 4hrs. Am I wrong?
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Aug 12, 2011 14:40
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Blaise posted:How long should it take for me to install my complete torsen upgrade on my NA? It doesn't look too tough, I'm thinking 4hrs. Am I wrong? If nothing is rusted or stuck yea its really fast and easy. I was super lucky when I did mine and almost everything was rusted or stuck and most of the time was just waiting for PB Blaster to do something. Oh and the car had wheel locks on every stud that I had no key for. streetlamp fucked around with this message at 15:42 on Aug 12, 2011 |
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Aug 12, 2011 15:16
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Krakkles posted:Ok, trying to reassemble my car, and I can't get the castlenut on the upper ball joint - the BJ just spins when I try to tighten. What am I missing? DJ Commie posted:Try pounding in the ball joint, it might help it jam enough to have the nut come off. On my 325, I found it helpful to use a jack apply pressure to hold the ball-joint in place, might work here.
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Aug 12, 2011 15:40
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Blaise posted:How long should it take for me to install my complete torsen upgrade on my NA? It doesn't look too tough, I'm thinking 4hrs. Am I wrong? One of the long bolts on the PPF to diff would not budge unless I took an impact to it, so hopefully you're prepared for that. It isn't even rusty, either.
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Aug 13, 2011 02:16
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DreamOn13 posted:One of the long bolts on the PPF to diff would not budge unless I took an impact to it, so hopefully you're prepared for that. It isn't even rusty, either. Same happened here. Had to borrow an impact to get a few bolts out which had only been put in a year or so before.
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Aug 13, 2011 02:36
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NinjaTech posted:New Smurf! Congrats on your purchase. I guess I'll be the token guy that says to invest in a rollbar. Also, check your VIN to see if it's an early or late 91. The early miatas have a problem with crank wobble so keep an eye on that.
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Aug 13, 2011 03:06
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Just replaced my 99's coil packs and the cold running hesitation issue seems to have gotten a lot better. I think there's more power too, but it's hard to tell because I haven't driven it in a week.. Oh well I cleared the P0421 code and we'll hope it doesn't come back I got these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/99-00-Mazda-Miata-Ignition-Coil-Pack-New-Mazda-OEM-/130321959291 Same markings as OEM and seem to be working great
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Aug 13, 2011 04:04
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