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Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

You should always negotiate price first, and then only discuss financing afterward.

And, if the best financing you can get from dealer or bank or credit union is 12%, then you maybe shouldn't be financing a brand new car, because your credit is poo poo.

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Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Leperflesh posted:

You should always negotiate price first, and then only discuss financing afterward.

And, if the best financing you can get from dealer or bank or credit union is 12%, then you maybe shouldn't be financing a brand new car, because your credit is poo poo.

Yes, absolutely. But people get so hung up over getting $500 off a 25k car that they may not realize the long term cost.

PIPBoy 2000
Oct 29, 2007
I'd be a lot more helpful if my clues button weren't broken.
The wife and I are seriously considering shelling out around $23.5k for a well optioned Ford Focus Titanium next spring. We will have around $12k to put down and no debt other than mortgage debt, so we could easily afford the $350 monthly payment (and would probably pay it off more quickly than the 36 month term).

Are we crazy for wanting to spend that much on a Focus?

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

PIPBoy 2000 posted:

The wife and I are seriously considering shelling out around $23.5k for a well optioned Ford Focus Titanium next spring. We will have around $12k to put down and no debt other than mortgage debt, so we could easily afford the $350 monthly payment (and would probably pay it off more quickly than the 36 month term).

Are we crazy for wanting to spend that much on a Focus?

What are your needs/wants? If you don't mind a bigger car with worse fuel economy, why not look at a slightly used Fusion?

PIPBoy 2000
Oct 29, 2007
I'd be a lot more helpful if my clues button weren't broken.
We are currently driving an 02 Civic and don't really have any desire for a bigger car. We'd just like something newer, nicer with gadgets (her), and a little sportier (me).

blugu64
Jul 17, 2006

Do you realize that fluoridation is the most monstrously conceived and dangerous communist plot we have ever had to face?
What's the best method I can use to tell how much car I can afford? I've got 10k-ish to spend, about a grand and a half in ccard debt, and am putting a decent amount in to savings/retirement accounts, not bad but I feel I could do better. I don't want to finance anything.

Can I afford to drop 8~k (asking price) on a '99-01 miata with 60k~ miles on it?

I don't have a car to sell/trade, as I've been motorcycle only for the past 3-4 years and commuting to the office during rush hour is getting to test my bravery. Plus sweet sweet air con would be nice. I plan on paying off that credit card the month after I get a car.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I paid just under $10k for a '99 Miata about six-seven years ago. You should be able to get into a NB for closer to half that amount.

If I had sold my '99 with about 100k on the clock on the open market instead of trading my mother-in-law for it, I would've been asking between $4k and $5k.

alreadybeen
Nov 24, 2009

blugu64 posted:

What's the best method I can use to tell how much car I can afford? I've got 10k-ish to spend, about a grand and a half in ccard debt, and am putting a decent amount in to savings/retirement accounts, not bad but I feel I could do better. I don't want to finance anything.

Can I afford to drop 8~k (asking price) on a '99-01 miata with 60k~ miles on it?

I don't have a car to sell/trade, as I've been motorcycle only for the past 3-4 years and commuting to the office during rush hour is getting to test my bravery. Plus sweet sweet air con would be nice. I plan on paying off that credit card the month after I get a car.

Why do you have credit card debt?

KeanuReevesGhost
Apr 24, 2008

JackRabbitStorm posted:

Got caught in a flash flood on Tuesday evening, engine bogged down and cut out (I did not try to restart it) and as I was waiting for a friend to show up (10 mins max), water had accumulated inside the car up to the bottom of the door jams. At this point I got out of the car, and waited another 10 minutes for my friend to show up. I had the car in nuetral already, so when he showed up we just pushed and I didnt notice how much water was in the car at this point. I have a WAI intake on it, so no intake tubing runs below battery level so I doubt(ish) that water got in the intake. Although, standing next to the car before pushing it water was above my knees.

We got it pushed to higher ground, and it got towed the next day. Today is Friday, the insurance company still hasn't stopped at the shop to inspect it, the shop refuses to touch it (Which is fine by me). So the wet carpets and everything has just been sitting with no airflow because the windows have been rolled up this whole time. I had/have kickpanel enclosures that were actually custom made for me by a member of this site last winter that were completely submerged, and when the car was sitting before the tow truck showed up the front right tire was sitting at an angle between this | | and this / /.

I called the shop to see if the Insurance people have contacted them yet, and apparently the insurance people might get there by next Tuesday.

With the wet poo poo sitting in a car with no airflow for a week, and all that, how likely is it that they will just write the car off?

It is a 2000 Nissan Altima GXE (so cloth seats, no power seats) 92.5K miles, and had minor body damage before this.


So as an update on this.


Due to gross miscommunication between the insurance adjuster, the shop has just now taken a quick glance at the car. They think the timing might of blown, but wont be able to tear the engine apart until next week to check it out. The wet carpets and poo poo have been sitting in the car for three weeks as of yesterday. The adjuster is still adamant that it will most likely be repairable.

What I know is wrong with the car
Front passenger tie rod, possibly more damage.
Possible timing, car will not start, battery is fully charged.
Wet carpets that smell like death.

Is there anyway once they determine whats all wrong and the cost of fixing it to opt out of having them fix it and just get a check for the repair cost, minus deductible? I don't want that car back, its going to be an electric nightmare from here on out.

Also, what about the reduced market value of the car since it will now have a flooded/salvage title?

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



JackRabbitStorm posted:

So as an update on this.


Due to gross miscommunication between the insurance adjuster, the shop has just now taken a quick glance at the car. They think the timing might of blown, but wont be able to tear the engine apart until next week to check it out. The wet carpets and poo poo have been sitting in the car for three weeks as of yesterday. The adjuster is still adamant that it will most likely be repairable.

What I know is wrong with the car
Front passenger tie rod, possibly more damage.
Possible timing, car will not start, battery is fully charged.
Wet carpets that smell like death.

Is there anyway once they determine whats all wrong and the cost of fixing it to opt out of having them fix it and just get a check for the repair cost, minus deductible? I don't want that car back, its going to be an electric nightmare from here on out.

Also, what about the reduced market value of the car since it will now have a flooded/salvage title?

A few things here. The vehicle will not have a salvage title if the vehicle is repaired, as it is not being considered a total loss. If it was completely flooded and unrepairable, then we'd be talking salvage title. If that was the situation, then the insurance company would pay you for the actual cash value (remember this, you'll see it often) less your comprehensive deductible. You could also retain the vehicle in this case, if you were so inclined, but I wouldn't recommend it unless you had sentimental value in a vehicle.

Next, you will not receive any payment for the perceived loss of market value on this loss as every single state's policy except Georgia has a provision that you cannot collect Diminution of Value (DOV) for first party claims, which is what your claim is.

In addition, you can elect to not repair the vehicle and take the payment. Here is a problem with that route - if you do elect to simply get a check for the damages less deductible, be aware the payment will be for damages visible. It is highly likely that if they were to tear down (disassemble) the vehicle for repairs they would find additional damages you cannot see presently. Since they will not be doing tear down you will receive a payment for what is visible. If you ever elected to repair the car later, they could certainly do a reinspection to determine if there is additional damage.

Lastly, I'm sure you've said it somewhere but I don't remember. If the vehicle is financed, be aware that the lienholder's name will appear on any draft as a payee and they will not endorse the draft without confirmation the vehicle has been repaired.

Just an aside, your vehicle is totally repairable and based on the water height, I highly doubt it damaged any electrical components, for what it's worth.

KeanuReevesGhost
Apr 24, 2008

Bovine Delight posted:

A few things here. The vehicle will not have a salvage title if the vehicle is repaired, as it is not being considered a total loss. If it was completely flooded and unrepairable, then we'd be talking salvage title. If that was the situation, then the insurance company would pay you for the actual cash value (remember this, you'll see it often) less your comprehensive deductible. You could also retain the vehicle in this case, if you were so inclined, but I wouldn't recommend it unless you had sentimental value in a vehicle.

Nope, no sentimental value. I like(d) the car, but it's a pain in the rear end and always breaking down


quote:

Next, you will not receive any payment for the perceived loss of market value on this loss as every single state's policy except Georgia has a provision that you cannot collect Diminution of Value (DOV) for first party claims, which is what your claim is.

drat, that sucks, thanks

quote:

In addition, you can elect to not repair the vehicle and take the payment. Here is a problem with that route - if you do elect to simply get a check for the damages less deductible, be aware the payment will be for damages visible. It is highly likely that if they were to tear down (disassemble) the vehicle for repairs they would find additional damages you cannot see presently. Since they will not be doing tear down you will receive a payment for what is visible. If you ever elected to repair the car later, they could certainly do a reinspection to determine if there is additional damage.
So, if I elect to not do repairs and take check minus deductible, I keep the car? I was misinformed on this, so this is good information. They are doing a partial tear down over the next week to look into the timing belt and to see if there are any bent rods. The shop is doing this all on the adjusters go ahead. All the information I have about the car is after the fact from calling the adjuster, the adjuster doesn't call me to tell me whats going on. (Whole different rant there)

quote:

Lastly, I'm sure you've said it somewhere but I don't remember. If the vehicle is financed, be aware that the lienholder's name will appear on any draft as a payee and they will not endorse the draft without confirmation the vehicle has been repaired.
The car was bought on a cash loan from my grandfather, no lien.

quote:

Just an aside, your vehicle is totally repairable and based on the water height, I highly doubt it damaged any electrical components, for what it's worth.

I know it is repairable, but even the adjuster said it might be at the point where the cost of repairs gets close to the market value of the car so he may or may not write it off.


Thanks so much for the information, I had definitely been given some misinformation in the past regarding this.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



JackRabbitStorm posted:

So, if I elect to not do repairs and take check minus deductible, I keep the car? I was misinformed on this, so this is good information. They are doing a partial tear down over the next week to look into the timing belt and to see if there are any bent rods. The shop is doing this all on the adjusters go ahead. All the information I have about the car is after the fact from calling the adjuster, the adjuster doesn't call me to tell me whats going on. (Whole different rant there)

Yes you retain the damaged vehicle and are given the draft for the damages less deductible. You are owed the money as you sustained the damage in a covered loss, so it's whatever you want to do. Plenty of people take a payment for some minor cosmetic damage because they have no intention of repairing it. Works out well for the insurance company too as they don't have to pay rental.

If you are having trouble with the adjuster, call the 800 number and don't enter your claim number. Get over to claims and explain to the rep your situation and they can try to put you in touch with that rep's supervisor.

Edit: You might want to tell the adjuster you may not want to repair the car as it sounds like the shop is under the impression you will be repairing it there.

Literally Lewis Hamilton fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Aug 11, 2011

CornHolio
May 20, 2001

Toilet Rascal
Wait, I always thought that if an insurance company totaled the car and paid you the value less deductible, that the car was then their property and if you wanted to keep it you had to pay something like 10% of the value back?

Reggie Died
Mar 24, 2004

CornHolio posted:

Wait, I always thought that if an insurance company totaled the car and paid you the value less deductible, that the car was then their property and if you wanted to keep it you had to pay something like 10% of the value back?

I *think* that occurs when the car is a write off. If the car is repairable, he will keep the car and the check for repairs (even if not done).

CornHolio
May 20, 2001

Toilet Rascal
Yeah I see where he specifies damage rather than value, I misunderstood. I follow now, thanks!

Iced Cocoa
Jul 14, 2011

Hey, I'm a college student working part-time and I've owned a car for two years now. The car is a 2005 Kia Picanto, one previous owner, and I got it for a steal, paid for it straight up including pre-purchase inspection by my car mechanic uncle. I've not yet experienced any problems with it. I had a "FREE!" winter checkup from the dealership, which tried to rip me off but since I got a cousin working at a car repair shop, I went there and got it looked at.

As I'm at university and still living with my parents, I have some disposable income. I decided to treat my car as a cab, and I pay a set amount for each traveled mile, and I use that money to pay for gas, insurance and general maintenance. I've never dipped into that fund for any other reason than that. So far, each year has never been in the red. In these two years, I've collected just about a third of how much I paid for the car.

The thing is, is this a smart thing to do? I've been planning to continue this sort of savings plan when I've moved out (One year left until I got Bachelors') But I've been wondering if there's something else I can do.

Also, so far I've paid insurance on a yearly basis, just paid for the third year. Is this something good to do when you can pay for it, or should I go to monthly payments? I can kind of see that if I tried to sell the car now, I doubt I would get the insurance refunded, but does monthly payments mean higher final amount?

I am kinda new to this car ownership thing. I would like to know few pointers and some advise on this.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Given that I've never heard of a Kia Picanto, I'm guessing you're not in the US. The way you are budgeting is perfectly manageable since most expenses will be roughly mileage based, as long as your "rate" is high enough to account for insurance / etc.

In the US at least, insurance must be prorated if you cancel it for any reason. I always pay six months at a time when I renew because they discount it significantly to do so. I could renew, then cancel the next day and only pay for the time used.

Iced Cocoa
Jul 14, 2011

IOwnCalculus posted:

Given that I've never heard of a Kia Picanto, I'm guessing you're not in the US. The way you are budgeting is perfectly manageable since most expenses will be roughly mileage based, as long as your "rate" is high enough to account for insurance / etc.

In the US at least, insurance must be prorated if you cancel it for any reason. I always pay six months at a time when I renew because they discount it significantly to do so. I could renew, then cancel the next day and only pay for the time used.

Yeah, Northern European here.

As I said, I've been using that float money to pay for all car expenses, including insurance, and I've yet to have a negative year.

Thanks for that blurb about insurance. :) I'll check it out with the insurance company later this month to see what the law in my country says about prorate.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



IOwnCalculus posted:

Given that I've never heard of a Kia Picanto, I'm guessing you're not in the US. The way you are budgeting is perfectly manageable since most expenses will be roughly mileage based, as long as your "rate" is high enough to account for insurance / etc.

In the US at least, insurance must be prorated if you cancel it for any reason. I always pay six months at a time when I renew because they discount it significantly to do so. I could renew, then cancel the next day and only pay for the time used.

North Carolina has a fun way of charging for insurance - the insurance company gets paid for the days you were insured with them (which makes sense) but also gets a percentage of all the days you were not insured as well. Thank the state for that one.

Iced Cocoa
Jul 14, 2011

Bovine Delight posted:

North Carolina has a fun way of charging for insurance - the insurance company gets paid for the days you were insured with them (which makes sense) but also gets a percentage of all the days you were not insured as well. Thank the state for that one.

I am expecting something like that after what IOwnCalculus said. But I can't check it out right now, but will do in the month. I got to see what I'm spending money on. :)

Another thing about spending money on. Since the start of the year, I've driven ~2500 miles. Not much, given that I get a very inexpensive year-long pass on the bus, and it's 12.5 miles back and from work (Bus is not an option, would take me near two hours to get home). After my parents heard those figures, the subject of oil change came up.

And here's where my knowledge in English deteriorates. :/ I don't know car terminology that well.

I'm not quite sure if the US has a similar service, but we have few 'corner shop' auto service shops which offer tire changes along with some sort of maintenance package. It includes Oil Change, check on tires, Gear Shift fluids, filters swaps, freezer fluid, windshield fluid.

The shop will tell you when you aught to go next time based on the car mileage, but my parents have told me that I should go do this twice a year, once before winter hits, and once when spring arrives.

So, go by mileage and thus don't spend money that often but with possible increased risk of 'oops', or do it twice a year?

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Iced Cocoa posted:

I'm not quite sure if the US has a similar service, but we have few 'corner shop' auto service shops which offer tire changes along with some sort of maintenance package. It includes Oil Change, check on tires, Gear Shift fluids, filters swaps, freezer fluid, windshield fluid.

The US has plenty of oil change places; lots of them are chains. Generally they are overpriced and staffed by people who have been trained to do the specific service and nothing else (e.g., they are not "mechanics" by any reasonable measure).

There are also lots of independent shops and any of them can change your oil and check belts and stuff like that too.

I don't think many of them will call you when it's time to come back in, but I used to get e-mail reminders from a shop when it estimated I was probably due for scheduled maintenance service.

You should not rely on any of that regardless. Because, in the first place, they won't know your actual mileage or driving conditions, and in the second, they'll overestimate how frequently you need service in order to get more money out of you.

When you get your car you should go by the manufacturer's recommended service intervals. That will be printed in the owner's manual. Get the oil changed at the recommended intervals and with the recommended oil grade.

Be aware that under ordinary driving conditions, non-synthetic oil will last at least 5000 miles, and synthetic can last for upwards of 15,000 or more... but both will last for less under harsh driving conditions (lots of stop-and-go, lots of cold-starts, an area with lots of dust, hauling a trailer a lot, etc.).

This is an improvement on things. It used to be that the standard oil change interval was every 3000 miles or six months, and this was correct back in the day, but oil compounds are much better than they used to be. Some folks still insist on that interval, but it's really not necessary any more (again, unless your driving conditions are unusually hard on the engine).

So my recommendation is don't worry about the six-month thing, do your services based on mileage, and refer to the chart in the owners manual. If you don't feel comfortable doing your own service, go to a local mechanic with good ratings/reviews/recommendations from other people in the area, and avoid the chains.

Don Lapre
Mar 28, 2001

If you're having problems you're either holding the phone wrong or you have tiny girl hands.

Leperflesh posted:

non-synthetic oil will last at least 5000 miles

Our subaru uses dino oil and recommends 7500 mile changes, which means its prob good to 10k haha

Red Monkey
Mar 18, 2006
The Year of the Monkey
The peeps in the Newbie Personal Finance thread convinced me to sell my car that has $9500 left to pay and buy something outright for around $2k.

I was looking at '91 Honda Prelude for $2k. I'm sure I can probably get it for less. They didn't think that was a good idea.

Would you all recommend the Prelude or something else?

berzerker
Aug 18, 2004
"If I could not go to heaven but with a party, I would not go there at all."
I'm going abroad for 3 months soon, then back in the States at my parents' place for the holidays, then abroad for another 3 months. My insurance right now is $43/month with Geico, and I called them up and it sounds like they'll only lower that to $28/month if I go to their minimal, stored-car plan (putting it in my parents' garage). I'm inclined to just cancel the insurance and start up again in 7-8 months. Is there any downside to this, aside from needing to be driven for the minimal amount I might during the holidays? I think I've seen questions about whether you've had interrupted insurance before when getting my auto insurance - is this going to make problems if I have a 8-month window of no insurance?

CornHolio
May 20, 2001

Toilet Rascal

Red Monkey posted:

The peeps in the Newbie Personal Finance thread convinced me to sell my car that has $9500 left to pay and buy something outright for around $2k.

I was looking at '91 Honda Prelude for $2k. I'm sure I can probably get it for less. They didn't think that was a good idea.

Would you all recommend the Prelude or something else?

You might be paying a 'ricer-tax' for that car, but mechanically-wise I think they were pretty solid. Plus, when you sell it you can pass the 'ricer-tax' on to the next person.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



berzerker posted:

I'm going abroad for 3 months soon, then back in the States at my parents' place for the holidays, then abroad for another 3 months. My insurance right now is $43/month with Geico, and I called them up and it sounds like they'll only lower that to $28/month if I go to their minimal, stored-car plan (putting it in my parents' garage). I'm inclined to just cancel the insurance and start up again in 7-8 months. Is there any downside to this, aside from needing to be driven for the minimal amount I might during the holidays? I think I've seen questions about whether you've had interrupted insurance before when getting my auto insurance - is this going to make problems if I have a 8-month window of no insurance?

Keep up the coverage - when you go for insurance and have a lapse of more than 30 days you'll be paying a good bit more.

NAPALM STICKS TO
Jun 22, 2005

How is the reliability of newer Land Rovers? I'm mostly leaning towards an LR2, but may go with an LR4 or Range Rover Sport, depending on what my wife likes. She will be driving it mostly. We only need one car, as I am working overseas.

I have zero debt of any kind and definitely make more than necessary, I just don't feel like inconveniencing her with minor repairs constantly. If LRs are still as bad as their reputation (which everywhere I've looked says otherwise), the secondary option is a 4Runner, but we're open to other recommendations. We do want something that is actually capable off-road. Anyway, reliability is important, as we will probably be somewhere a decent distance from any dealerships. That makes me lean towards the 4Runner, but she loves Land Rovers.

Also, I'm young (24) and don't have much of a credit history. I've generally bought everything cash as I've always been worried about getting into any sort of debt. Would it be smarter to buy this cash as well, or finance it to build credit? I'm not sure if credit even matters for me, as we move a lot, so home ownership doesn't make sense for me.

NAPALM STICKS TO fucked around with this message at 14:53 on Aug 29, 2011

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003
You should consider a new Grand Cherokee, 4runners have awful interiors compared to a Range Rover, the GC might be a good middle ground.

Looking at JDPower the RR/LR products still seem to be some of the most unreliable cars in the world.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Land Rover still makes a hilariously unreliable car with outrageous repair costs.

Throatwarbler
Nov 17, 2008

by vyelkin

Our Gay Apparel posted:

Anyway, reliability is important, as we will probably be somewhere a decent distance from any dealerships. That makes me lean towards the 4Runner, but she loves Land Rovers.

If she loves LRs, they buy her a LR. What's the problem? The point of making money is to buy poo poo you love. I would say probably 90% of LR buyers are women. I've read loads of reviews where the male reviewer noted the surprising amount of interest from female friends and cowokers. I think there's just something about LR's styling that trips a switch in the female brain.

As far as reliability and value goes, here's the deal:

1) Vehicles of all makes that have extensive offroad equipment/are meant for offroad performance tend to score poorly in reliability surveys compared to commuter cars. Especially if the vehicle is also designed with a mind for on-road performance as well, which LRs mostly are. The old Grand Cherokee wasn't exactly a Consumer Reports darling either. Neither was the Wrangler or Mercedes G-wagen. It may be just the nature of the beast that if you want complicated 4WD with a 2 speed transfer case, air suspension, active anti-rollbars and a fully boxed frame, nothing on the market is going to be as problem free as a bog standard Honda Accord. Looking on Truedelta, the GC isn't really any more problem free than the LR4, and I say this as a Chrysler owner with a soft spot for all things Chrysler. Toyota does make the Land Cruiser and lexus GX/LX, but they don't really sell a lot of them in the US so although they have a good reputation, reliability information is hard to come by. More on this below.

2) LRs all have terrible resale value so you should be buying used as a matter of course, but even new, the LR4 is pretty reasonably priced for what you get, starting at $47k MSRP. By comparison a new Grand Cherokee loaded up to similar spec (4x4, air suspension, etc) is easily almost $50k as well. It's quite cheap compared to the Land Cruiser which starts at close to $70k, the LX570 which starts at $80k, or GX460 which starts at $57k, with a much weaker 300hp 4.6l engine. Considering the Lexus/Toyotas use signfiicantly cheaper and simpler live rear axles compared to the sophisiticated independent rear suspension of the LR (or GC for that matter), and are otherwise much less well equipped, one would *hope* that the Toyotas are much more reliable - you're paying a shitload more money for a more spartan vehicle. This is reflected in sales. as indicated, the Toyota Land Cruiser family sells in extremely small numbers compared to the Land Rover LR4 and Ranger Rover families.

I would say go for it, especially used. Given that the Toyotas hold their value on the used market well due to the small sales numbers, the LR is a better deal even if Land Rovers are really as bad as people say and Toyotas are really as good as people say, which isn't a given.

Throatwarbler fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Aug 29, 2011

NAPALM STICKS TO
Jun 22, 2005

Yeah, looks like I'll go with the Land Rover. Now she just has to decide which model she wants. So, should I pay cash, or build up credit history by financing it?

Don Lapre
Mar 28, 2001

If you're having problems you're either holding the phone wrong or you have tiny girl hands.
How much money do you guys make? Are you wealthy enough you could buy a house with cash or put a big enough down payment that your lack of credit doesn't matter?

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003
See what kind of rate you'll get, I can't imagine it'll be very good, you will probably not qualify for any kind of promo rate.

I'd pay cash and get a basic credit card right now to start taking care of that just in case you want to buy a house one day. Having excellent credit will get you lower rates which amounts to huge savings.

Be prepared for electrical gremlins.

NAPALM STICKS TO
Jun 22, 2005

Don Lapre posted:

How much money do you guys make? Are you wealthy enough you could buy a house with cash or put a big enough down payment that your lack of credit doesn't matter?

I make about $200k on my own, she's in school to be a nurse. We have basically zero expenses. I'd say she spends 2-3k a month on living expenses, I work overseas and my living expenses are all taken care of. The rest is saved. She will be done with school soon. I could definitely put a big enough down payment to buy a house pretty much anywhere, or just buy it cash in some places. We're not interested in buying a house, as we move too often for that to make sense. Smarter for us just to rent.

Throatwarbler
Nov 17, 2008

by vyelkin

Our Gay Apparel posted:

Yeah, looks like I'll go with the Land Rover. Now she just has to decide which model she wants. So, should I pay cash, or build up credit history by financing it?

You should try to steer her towards the LR4 or Range Rover Sport (they are somewhat similar vehicles). The LR2/Freelander isn't really a "real" Land Rover, it's a car body/engine based on a Volvo/Ford front wheel drive car, developed under Ford ownership as an economy model. Basically you are buying all of a Land Rover's reliability problems with none of the benefits - she'd be better off with the 4Runner or Jeep.

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

If you're interested in adding a positive tradeline to your credit report, put 50% down on the LR and take a 24 month loan on the rest.

If not just pay cash.

Don Lapre
Mar 28, 2001

If you're having problems you're either holding the phone wrong or you have tiny girl hands.
Id just buy the car with cash. If you want to build some credit then get a credit card and use it and pay it off.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Red Monkey posted:

The peeps in the Newbie Personal Finance thread convinced me to sell my car that has $9500 left to pay and buy something outright for around $2k.

I was looking at '91 Honda Prelude for $2k. I'm sure I can probably get it for less. They didn't think that was a good idea.

Would you all recommend the Prelude or something else?

I would personally hesitate, but only because in Phoenix, at least, there is simply no such thing as a $2k Honda anything in "good" condition. If a Honda in Phoenix is only $2k, something horrible lurks beneath - crash damage, major mechanical abuse, poor modifications, etc. They don't rust here, so they only go away when they've been utterly beaten to death...and the ones that don't get beaten seem to have a price floor at $3k.

At $2k, focus more on the condition and history of the car than anything else. A Honda that's been raped every day of its 20-year-life is a worse buy than a Ford Focus or Mazda Protege that's been treated reasonably well for 10 years.

Red Monkey
Mar 18, 2006
The Year of the Monkey

CornHolio posted:

You might be paying a 'ricer-tax' for that car, but mechanically-wise I think they were pretty solid. Plus, when you sell it you can pass the 'ricer-tax' on to the next person.

What is a ricer tax?

Are there any other older vehicles worth looking at?

Thanks!

IOwnCalculus posted:

I would personally hesitate, but only because in Phoenix, at least, there is simply no such thing as a $2k Honda anything in "good" condition. If a Honda in Phoenix is only $2k, something horrible lurks beneath - crash damage, major mechanical abuse, poor modifications, etc. They don't rust here, so they only go away when they've been utterly beaten to death...and the ones that don't get beaten seem to have a price floor at $3k.

At $2k, focus more on the condition and history of the car than anything else. A Honda that's been raped every day of its 20-year-life is a worse buy than a Ford Focus or Mazda Protege that's been treated reasonably well for 10 years.

It doesn't have to be a 20 year old Honda for me. It can be a 10 year old. I'd prefer something Japanese.

I'm looking at a 1997-2000 model car, what make/models would you recommend?

Red Monkey fucked around with this message at 02:18 on Aug 30, 2011

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Arzakon
Nov 24, 2002

"I hereby retire from Mafia"
Please turbo me if you catch me in a game.

Red Monkey posted:

What is a ricer tax?

Most Japanese economy cars have an inflated resale value because idiots like to buy them and slap fartcans and huge wings on them and will pay extra for the privilege of doing it. For most people a well taken care of Civic will be the same thing as a well taken care of Focus but reputation/rice factor make the Honda worth more.

Red Monkey posted:

I'm looking at a 1997-2000 model car, what make/models would you recommend?

This is an impossible question to answer and there is a reason questions like this aren't welcome in AI. Every brand made some poo poo cars in that time period and some good cars. We don't even know what you are looking for in a car beyond that you looked at a 91 Prelude once.

Go look at cars you like in your price range, google common issues with the model years to see if they are all horrible pieces of poo poo or halfway decent, then have a mechanic check out whatever you are thinking of buying.

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