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My Slow Stick has kind of transformed into a Quick Stick over the last month or so. I swapped in a Parkzone Park 480 brushless from my crashed T-28, and it moves out pretty well now. It was just getting to be dusk and was overcast last night, so the video quality isnt the greatest, but it was perfect flying weather. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zW0AFWN32k
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Jul 29, 2011 15:42
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I have had gas cars in the past, and will simply not put myself through it again. I was wanting to build another crawler (Somewhere between a monster truck and a crawler as a backyard weapon), and a found one of the short lived "HPI Nitro Monster King" trucks for cheap (Basically a gas powered wheely king). After two weeks of making parts/modifying existing stuff, it is done... Went from this:   To this:        
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Aug 5, 2011 07:12
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Would anyone happen to be selling a personal transponder? I'm a bit concerned with one that I have... swapping between vehicles all the time is doing a number on the receiver lead.
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Aug 5, 2011 22:38
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needknees posted:Would anyone happen to be selling a personal transponder? I'm a bit concerned with one that I have... swapping between vehicles all the time is doing a number on the receiver lead.
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Aug 6, 2011 01:20
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needknees posted:Would anyone happen to be selling a personal transponder? I'm a bit concerned with one that I have... swapping between vehicles all the time is doing a number on the receiver lead. Get a couple of these. I use them for my transponder for just that reason, since I swap between 3 different vehicles when I race. Speaking of racing... we ran today after a really rough thunderstorm. Vehicles in every class were breaking left and right, and I chewed up the diff and blew 2 LiPos in my stock XXX-SCT. However, in the open Short Course class, my XXX-SCB was the perfect vehicle for a muddy track. Despite some whining from some of the more aggressive old-timers and some very, very dirty driving on their part (ramming me in every corner, enough so that I think one guy broke his truck in the process), I still managed some of my all-time fastest laps, TQ'd, and came home with:  A big change from the last-place, 4 laps down finishes I started with here.
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Aug 7, 2011 06:51
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Hey all, looking for some impartial advice. I'm working at a model shop in the UK, but I can't get the right signal to noise to work out which R/C is gonna be the best for me to start with. We stock Thunder Tiger, Ansmann and Tamiya, but the three main options I'm eyeing up are: Ansmann Hot Rod (not the brushless version) all in would be around £170 Tamiya TT-01E Golf (with LED kit) all in all about £160 Tamiya Subaru Brat (the re-re version) all in all about £180 Brat really catches my eye, but I think it wouldn't be as easy to get hop-ups/ spares / new shells on it compared to the TT-01 Golf, and obviously the Ansmann is appealing for "charge and go" aspect.
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Aug 12, 2011 21:18
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For your first time building a kit, Tamiya's stuff is very, very good. Good quality kits with excellent instructions. If they do something you like, I'd recommend them to anyone. I suppose it depends on what you want. Is this a mess-around-in-car-parks toy?
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Aug 12, 2011 21:57
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Pretty much. The store is doing a semi-regular RC night, both for people getting into it and for somewhere for people to run, so I'd be running it there too, but mostly just messing about anywhere it's safe. One consideration for the Bratis that it's on/off road, and whilst my garden has a fairly even slabbed area, it has a large, even, regularly cut lawn.
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Aug 12, 2011 22:03
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Tamiya is re-issuing the Brat? Awesome 
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Aug 13, 2011 06:55
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The re-issued it in 2007, apparently, my store just asked to get one sent in and got lucky.
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Aug 13, 2011 13:32
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I have a Subaru Brat. I bought it the week it was re-released since it was cheap, and awesome in an AI kind of way. All I did was put bearings on the axles (it comes with some for the transmission) and had to shave the battery tray slightly to fit my LiPOs. It is not very fast, does not handle well, and doesn't really scream "upgrade me". On the other hand, it looks awesome, it is a part of R/C History, and you get a polycarbonate body in addition to the ABS hard plastic body (which I have unpainted still in the box  ) A 5000 mah LiPO will run a good 40 minutes and I let just about anyone drive it and have not broken a single part yet. Given your other options, I would stick with the Tamiya idea. The TT01 is not a very good chassis from my experience. For a beginner chassis I would say that the TL01 is the better option, or one of the "Mini" chassis platforms. Tamiya makes a whole mess of upgrade parts that will cost 3x what the initial vehicle cost, and you will still not have a very exciting car. If availability for your area, and budget allow, I really like the TA05 chassis as a moderate/beginner car. It will be better out of the box than the likes of the TT01 and TL01 will ever be - plus if you do go upgrade crazy Tamiya makes some lust worthy bits that will make your car look better and handle much better.
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Aug 13, 2011 16:26
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I don't really fancy a mini if I'm honest. We stock a few TT-01's but a lot of the other R/C's are prebuilt. Those options I listed are the best choices I have.
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Aug 13, 2011 16:55
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I have been driving my first real RC kit for a month now. It happens to be a Tamiya and all I can say is parts availability is a bitch and my next kit will be something far more locally supported. The car itself is fantastic in that it handles really well. I have done extensive modifications. Biggest being replacing the aluminum main shaft gear with a hardened steel pinion gear I cut and pressed on. I love rally but again rally tires for this scale are limited. Tamiya bodies and paints kick rear end though. I ordered the Evo kit because it includes an internal dirt shield you just can't find anymore. It's actually the DF03 standard buggy body this car is based on. I added a small fan filter to aid cooling.  
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Aug 13, 2011 21:01
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That looks really good. It's bringing back my rally lust.
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Aug 13, 2011 21:04
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My wife took the Evo pics with her fancy camera. I have an STI body I keep for garage queen duties but my camera makes the colors wrong. It's a deep metallic purple. I'm a Subaru guy and had to have this body. You mask and keep the light areas clear and then install these awesome metallic housings inside. Tamiya does an awesome job with bodies.   
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Aug 13, 2011 21:35
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You make a pretty important point about locally supported bodies/brands. My first real rc buggy was a Tamiya Durga, and it was an absolute whore of a car to fix because parts had to come from china or another asian country, and that's even if I could find them in the first place. Never again.
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Aug 13, 2011 21:43
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Hypnolobster posted:You make a pretty important point about locally supported bodies/brands. Oh god, parts are almost exclusively only available in Japan and apparently discontinued/very limited for the DF03 series. There is no US off road capable rally cars in 1/10 at all which was what I wanted. Had I known parts are so hard to get I would have not gone this route. The car is great though. When this thing gives up the ghost I'm going to try building a hybrid rally sedan from a US company. All the hobby shops by me are exploding with Traxxas parts.
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Aug 13, 2011 23:14
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Yeah, I'm considering something that's been around for a good while like an Associated B44 or the like. Traxxas is undeniably one of the easiest companies to find parts for. My local shop carries every single damned part for the majority of their cars, and the place is miniscule. e: That Tamiya Durga WAS however an absolute BLAST of a car. I absolutely loved the way it handled and the way it went together. It was an awesome design and a great body for not much money but it was just tragically difficult to find parts. And it went through a-arms like nobody's business.
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Aug 14, 2011 01:19
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I'm thinking about retrofitting one of the 4x4 short course trucks with a 1/8th body off of an Ofna DM1 or something. I think the wheelbase is pretty close.
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Aug 15, 2011 04:57
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Yeah I'm looking at the HPI mini trophy. I'd like to maintain the 1/10 scale and it is really the closest to 190mm that I can find. Short course is probably the best starting point for a rally conversion.
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Aug 15, 2011 16:55
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Man, I had a Rustler, nitro rally car, and a couple airplanes (that never got off the ground) back when I was a kid and it seems like stuff is soo much better now. I don't think I ever put more than 2 batteries through the rustler before breaking something and never got the nitro car running quite right. Since I was a kid with no car I'd drive the thing for an 30 minutes, break it, wait three months till we went to town for parts, etc. Eventually got frustrated and gave up on it. Now that I'm a grown up with more money, and because stuff seems way awesome with lipo/ brushless, I want to get back into the hobby. I'm looking at either a small 4wd truck (Savage Flux XS, 1/16 Revo VXL) or a 1/10 2wd truck (E-Firestorm Flux, Rustler VXL). I want brushless (not sure how much it actually matters, but seems really cool), durable, Lipo capability, waterproof, won't be racing, and hopefully around $300 or under for the lot. I'm curious on pros/cons between the big 2wd vs little 4wd, Traxxas and HPI in both the 2wd and 4wd chassis, and what parts would be worth picking up ahead of time for inevitable breakage. Since I already had a Rustler that seems a little boring, but I had so much fun with it for the half hour bursts where it was working that it might be worth it with lipos and brushless.
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Aug 15, 2011 21:02
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What will you be doing with it? Mainly backyard/skatepark bashing, or do you plan to go racing?
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Aug 15, 2011 22:05
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He said he won't be racing, which really opens up the possibilities. I'm pretty biased, but if you can wait for it the Savage XS will be pretty badass. I've seen it do standing backflips with a 2S battery, and with a 3S it's absolutely ballistic. Do a Youtube search for 'HPI Savage' and check out the stunts that people do with the 1/8th size version and imagine the same stunts in a smaller size. Plus it's waterproof, brushless, yadda yadda. The big Savages are pretty much bulletproof and can do 40'+ long, 20'+ high jumps several times before breaking. If you can land on the wheels most of the time you won't break very often, if you do it'll be an arm, suspension pin, suspension brace...if you land really wrong you might bend the chassis plates or toast a set of diff gears. As for comparisons, the Traxxas stuff is pretty good, but the XS will be bigger than the 1/16th size stuff, 4WD is better than 2WD, if you wanted you could fit stadium truck or even touring car wheels/tires on the XS and run a ton of different 1/10th scale bodies on it.
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Aug 15, 2011 22:23
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Yeah, backyard/empty lot stuff. I can definitely wait if the XS is the way to go. Seems like the price is really right for what you're getting.
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Aug 15, 2011 22:31
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The new 4x4 Stampede is quite the truck as well. Its based off the 4x4 Slash, which is a proven platform, and does great as a Short Course truck
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Aug 15, 2011 22:35
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I know it'd be a guess since the XS isn't out yet, but any reason the Stampede 4x4 might be a better choice? It looks sweet, it's just that it's a bit over my mental price limit. One thing I was wondering: moster truck-y things like the XS seem to roll over in turns on cement all the time. If I feel like setting it up for some parking lot fun, what would I have to do to make it more stable? I was thinking lowered ride height, swaybars, and maybe some tires more stable / less bulging out sidewalls.
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Aug 16, 2011 03:13
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Get the 4WD version. The 2WD version with anything but the stock batteries is literally just going to spin in circles. Slash 4x4 (big model) is pretty stout. I break a lot of stuff but nothing costly or important. Ring gear in the back, a couple little minor suspension parts, etc. Buy RPM replacement parts. The only thing I'd put on aluminum is the knuckles or whatever they're called. Don't hit stuff going full throttle that isn't going to move or the truck won't ramp clearly off of. When I first got my truck almost all my damage came from hitting sloped curbs head on, buttoming out, flipping forward and landing. It was beating the rear end up. Avoid hard hits, you really learn how to ramp them after picking it up after 40 foot somersaults end over end down the street. edit: Everything about monster truck you just said sounds like the Slash 4x4 to me. Pulling the tires in, lowering it, etc. Someone with more knowledge would know but I think swaybars are actually not a good idea for bashing or something. You'll seriously bash no matter what if you're not racing. Going real fast in parking lots and grass is awesome but the urge to start throwing it up hills, off ramps, over things is way too great. My recommendation is to just ramp the hell out of it and scratch that stock body up to start then you never feel bad. Mine's a wreck. I have a garage queen body and then the stock body to beat the daylights out of it in. Also buy allen key screwdrivers. Those regular ones will get horribly tedious after the first time you break even the simplest thing. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 04:21 on Aug 16, 2011 |
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Aug 16, 2011 04:15
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I guess in should have clarified--I was thinking of the changes for asphalt as something I would do and undo as the mood struck me. No sway bars and high ground clearance would definitely be my choice for rougher bashing.
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Aug 16, 2011 05:08
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I had a 2wd Stampede, but the concepts are mostly the same. The best thing you can do to keep it from flipping is lower the stance some. Any RC car worth its salt has adjustable suspension, and will allow you to change the ride height at will. The 2WD stampede had these clips that let you adjust ride height, and it did make a difference. The stock tires that come on the Stampede will slide a little on pavement, making them less likely to traction roll. If you upgrade the tires to something like Mashers, then they'll just grip everywhere. I drive a 4x4 slash now, and while it handles much better on the pavement and track, it gets bogged down in grass, and obviously doesnt have the ride height for monster truck style bashing.
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Aug 16, 2011 14:52
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Ran into an awesome deal on a couple 1/8th Kyoshos so if anyone is looking to get into 1/8th electric, my Mugen is on the chopping block. Nice Tekno v4 converted Mugen MBX-6 as either a roller or ARTR with Tekin RX8/2050kV T8, servo, and a TON of parts, shoot me a pm
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Aug 17, 2011 22:14
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Can one of you folks tell me what these connectors are called? I love using them but I've completely forgotten their name.
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Aug 22, 2011 01:09
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Anderson Powerpoles, or one of the variants. They're absolutely fantastic. e: To anybody who hasn't used them, they work beautifully for a lot of things. Plug in jumper cables on a service truck is something I've wanted to do with them for a long time. They come all the way up to 4/0 350amp size. http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpoles/powerpole-sets/ Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Aug 22, 2011 |
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Aug 22, 2011 01:43
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Sry double post...
wav3form fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Aug 22, 2011 |
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Aug 22, 2011 02:04
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They might also be called Sermos connectors which are slightly heavier duty.
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Aug 22, 2011 02:08
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Hypnolobster posted:Anderson Powerpoles, or one of the variants. They're absolutely fantastic. Yep, I have a pair of the 75A connectors on my subwoofer/amp. Makes it a breeze to disconnect it when I want trunk space.
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Aug 22, 2011 02:45
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The Anderson Power poles are the defacto UPS standard as well, they do work nicely. For R/C, I'm really partial to the Traxxas connectors, which are along the same lines as the Anderson power poles. Everything R/C I own has Traxxas connectors on it.
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Aug 22, 2011 16:39
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I still love the Dean's stuff, even if they can be a bitch to solder wires to. Or maybe I'm not that good at soldering, I dunno. Everything I have has Dean's.
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Aug 23, 2011 11:13
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I love Deans. In order to solder them properly, make sure you have an iron of at least 40 watts, tin the wires, tin the connectors, then solder them together. Good flux is also a must as well as a clean iron. I lost an airplane due to a faulty Anderson connector, and Deans are easier to find if you are in a pinch. I've also put about 95 amps through them without them even getting hot, and they are compact and light.
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Aug 23, 2011 16:12
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I nearly lost a plane (failed ground check, thankfully) to whatever stupid connectors come on Parkzone stuff, I cant stand those. The solder just let go, and that was it. I dont have anything against deans, just never used them. I trust soldering wires to tabs ala deans and traxxas way more than I trust jamming wires into a holed out connector like the Parkzone ones. EDIT: They're EC3's. Terrible connectors Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 18:41 on Aug 23, 2011 |
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Aug 23, 2011 18:39
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Eflite/Losi connections are my connector of choice. deans are too loving hard to unplug.
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Aug 24, 2011 06:17
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