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Fyrbrand posted:Yeah don't use white, at least skull white. Has a tendency to make things into a bright pastel color. Use a lighter shade of blue or at least an off-white like bleached bone. This is good advice: If you have access to it, Torabi, use Ice Blue or some such to make a highlight, or Bleached Bone instead of Skull White. Otherwise, just be careful with your adding white and you should be okay.
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Aug 17, 2011 03:53
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Try Space Wolf Grey for mixing with U.M Blue. Then go to straight S.W.G for the second highlight.
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Aug 17, 2011 04:32
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I just started using Vallejo's gray airbrush primer, and I've been super happy with the results. Just use it straight out of the bottle, no thinning required, and it makes a super smooth coat. I second this. I actually picked up gray, black and white. I'm impressed with all three, I won't be going back to can primers.
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Aug 17, 2011 04:34
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Bavius posted:I second this. I actually picked up gray, black and white. I'm impressed with all three, I won't be going back to can primers. Yeah, lovely finish and no worries about fuzzing or flooding detail. And on the subject of black, I've just tipped half a pot of Chaos Black all over my hand. I really need to get out of the test model rut.
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Aug 17, 2011 04:39
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If I have an HP Photosmart C4480, can I print my own decals? 
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Aug 17, 2011 05:21
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TastyAvocado posted:If possible you should try to use a lighter shade of blue to mix highlights with instead of white. You can do them at whatever point you like but if you're worried about making hard-to-fix mistakes you can wait until all the colours are blocked in. Oh really? I didn't know that. What is this "something" that put the models in and does it damage the model? Since that would be rather bad. Fyrbrand posted:Yeah don't use white, at least skull white. Has a tendency to make things into a bright pastel color. Use a lighter shade of blue or at least an off-white like bleached bone. I only have the 40k starter set along with the 8 paints I get from it. So not much to mix it with. Edit: I missed the two posts at the top of this page at first.
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Aug 17, 2011 11:00
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Torabi posted:I only have the 40k starter set along with the 8 paints I get from it. So not much to mix it with. I just checked the contents of that set, unfortunately white is the only colour in there you could realistically use to lighten it with. If you can get some yellow, that can be mixed with the white to give you a bleached bone colour that can in turn be mixed with the blue. Or alternatively grab some bleached bone anyway, I say yellow instead because it's a useful colour for lightening red and brown too.
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Aug 17, 2011 11:34
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richyp posted:I just checked the contents of that set, unfortunately white is the only colour in there you could realistically use to lighten it with. If you can get some yellow, that can be mixed with the white to give you a bleached bone colour that can in turn be mixed with the blue. Or alternatively grab some bleached bone anyway, I say yellow instead because it's a useful colour for lightening red and brown too. I'm heading down to the store today to watch as people play again. Might as well buy some bleached bone while I'm down there.
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Aug 17, 2011 12:27
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Bleached Bone is a super useful color even if you don't use it for highlighting.
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Aug 17, 2011 14:15
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Now that I am heading down there. Do you guys know of anything else that I should perhaps pick up to help me with my painting? I won't get new models just yet but if you know of any handy tools then do tell.
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Aug 17, 2011 14:51
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Torabi posted:Now that I am heading down there. Do you guys know of anything else that I should perhaps pick up to help me with my painting? I won't get new models just yet but if you know of any handy tools then do tell. I'd grab some yellow, green and Tallarn Flesh paint then at least you'll have the base colours covered for mixing with your existing paints. In terms of other stuff I wouldn't worry about anything else yet, just get used to working with the paints and how to highlight the different colours. I tend to use the following when working with colours: code:Human Skin 1) Paint Tallarn Fesh 2) Wash with Devlan Mud / Brown wash 3) Repaint Tallarn on most of the face, leaving the darker areas untouched. 4) Paint the highlight on the raised parts 5) Paint a slightly lighter highlight on the tip of the raised parts. Ork Skin as a comparison: 1) Paint Knarloc Green 2) Wash with Thrakka Green / Devlan Mud 3) Repaint Knarloc on most of the skin, leaving the darker areas untouched. 4) Paint the highlight on the raised parts 5) Paint a slightly lighter highlight on the tip of the raised parts. The process applies to pretty much any colour you'll ever use, unless you go for extreme/edge highlighting as you'll often see on marines, which involves painting the base then just running the edge of the brush with the highlight colour along the edge of a model (sideways on around the edge of the shoulder pads is the easiest example)
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Aug 17, 2011 15:09
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You use like twice as many steps as I do. Not that the results don't show, but for a guy who doesn't even highlight yet that's a bit over the top. Colour + Wash + Highlight is a simple enough next step that'll get noticeable results. Maybe not even highlight.
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Aug 17, 2011 15:22
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richyp posted:I'd grab some yellow, green and Tallarn Flesh... I'll probably get those once I start with Imperial Guard. The space marine do not show a whole lot of flesh exactly. I'll still pick up bleached bone.
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Aug 17, 2011 15:32
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sassassin posted:You use like twice as many steps as I do. One of the steps (the repainting base colour) is done usually because I flood the model like crazy when washing, so with a base colour of UM Blue I tend to find it too dark unless its repainted. Skipping that then it really is just paint/wash/highlight. It was really more of an example so Torabi can see what paints to get in addition to the ones that come in the starter set i.e. yellow and green. Also, I never follow my own advice when it comes to highlighting because I tend to mix in an additional non-obvious colour that I use in all the colours on my models. i.e. If I was painting an Ork with blue armour, I'd actually shade the green with some of the same blue as I used on the armour, add some blue to the metals etc... On tiny details like white skulls/teeth I don't do this and it makes them really stand out from the muted palette of the rest of the model. I think there's an arty name for using the same colour throughout but I've no idea what it is, I just started doing it by accident when I didn't clean a brush once and it kind of stuck as a little quirk that I have. You can nearly always spot it on my models. It's most obvious on some of the models I recently painted where every colour had a small amount of a specific colour added to the highlight Goblins: Sand Yellow  Green -> Yellow (Sand Yellow highlights) Black -> Grey -> Grey + Sand Yellow Yellow -> Sand Yellow Highlights Brown -> Brown + Sand Yellow Troll: Beige Brown  Blue Grey -> Blue Grey + Beige Brown + Ice Blue Flesh -> Beige Brown shade Cloth -> Dheneb + Beige Brown -> Bleached Bone -> White And finally: Scourge: Bleached Bone  Armour was pretty much bleached bone->white Wings + Gun : Ice Blue -> Ice Blue + BB Purple Tubing: Termagant Purple -> TP + BB TLDR; another  post
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Aug 17, 2011 15:43
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Wow that Eldar (I think it is at least) is crazy. The detail on those wings is immense!
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Aug 17, 2011 15:50
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Every time I see one of those new scourges I want to throw every swooping hawk I own (this is a lot of hawks) out the window. If they ever get around to giving us a comparable kit I will be so broke.
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Aug 17, 2011 15:59
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Torabi posted:Oh really? I didn't know that. What is this "something" that put the models in and does it damage the model? Since that would be rather bad. Picking up a few different blues might help. From darkest to lightest, the GW paint blue colors go Necron Abyss (Foundation), Midnight Blue, Regal Blue, Ultramarine Blue, Enchanted Blue, Ice Blue. Having more than one of those to work with would help a lot. You don't need them all, but getting say, one darker and one lighter than the one you have might be useful. They also have a couple of greys that tend towards blue - Shadow Grey and Space Wolves Grey, which are also good colors. As for stripping, Simple Green works wonders, and I have heard UK goons talk about using something called Dettol. You just plunk the mini in and leave it for a day and then brush with a toothbrush and the paint sloughs right off. It won't damage the model. It may cause superglued joints to weaken but you can re-glue them if so.
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Aug 17, 2011 16:06
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richyp posted:I think there's an arty name for using the same colour throughout but I've no idea what it is, I just started doing it by accident when I didn't clean a brush once and it kind of stuck as a little quirk that I have. I think it's called "unity?" Not sure if that fits 100% though.
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Aug 17, 2011 16:07
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Regal highlighted with Enchanted, washed and re-highlighted in places is a great blue combo imo.
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Aug 17, 2011 16:10
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I've been putting together some ideas before I decide on a theme for my bases. I have some questions. I've heard of a trick people use, where they make trees and shrubs out of dried grape stems. Does anyone have a guide for this? is it just as simple as painting them with thinned pva glue? I found this old smithsonian crystal growing kit, has anyone been able to use home-grown crystals to good effect, or is it just better to paint up some rock and cut-up sprue. A question about chariot bases, I'd like to base the entire chariot. What size should I use? Where can I get some? For a different project, I want to give an old Grom and Niblet a custom pimped out chariot. I think I'll start with an elven chariot as the base (spoils of war for a returned Grom?). I want to give him a big banner sewn from pieces of banners collected from my friends armies. I was thinking of using some kind of Cerberus type beast to pull it instead of the standard three wolves. Could someone point out some models from any range that might look good? Any ideas/suggestions on where I can take this? If I go through with this, it will be either unique and inspiring in the things I'll learn in the process, or it could be one of the most hilarious monstrosities posted on the forums. Either way we all win, though if I finish it I might run into self exile to warseer out of shame.
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Aug 17, 2011 16:48
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Thanks everyone for the help with the colour scheme for my moonlit undead. I had been tossing up between blue and purple, but I have to say I think the purple wins. It gives a much more mystical feel to things. That, and it works well with green which I want to use as the sepulchral lights. I have to admit that I am slightly inspired by the graphics being used for Tirisfal Glades and Duskwood from World of Warcraft. However, I am looking to keep mine dark and muted as much as I can. To this end I have ordered some woodland scenics products for my bases, in as dark a pallet range as possible. Hoping the two can go together well for what I want. If anyone has any pictures or photo's they think relevant to this end goal, I would be more than interested to learn of it. If you can let me know via PM that would be great. Cheers!
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Aug 17, 2011 17:32
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Recursive Expanse posted:I was thinking of using some kind of Cerberus type beast to pull it instead You may try out a flesh hound: http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat440166a&prodId=prod1170223&rootCatGameStyle= Or the 3-headed special version, Karanak: http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat440166a&prodId=prod1170225&rootCatGameStyle=
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Aug 17, 2011 17:38
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I had considered flesh hounds for normal wolf chariots. I've never seen Karanak before, that's going on my list of candidates, though I'm going back and forth on whether I like his horn crests.
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Aug 17, 2011 17:58
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So I went down to the store to pick up some Bleached Bone. Out of nowhere my sister comes into the store and buys me an imperial guard squad (10 guys) and all of the paints needed for them! (Along with bleached bone) Says it is a delayed birthday gift.  Now I have to finish my remaining Space Marines so I can start on those guys.
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Aug 17, 2011 18:04
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richyp posted:I just checked the contents of that set, unfortunately white is the only colour in there you could realistically use to lighten it with. If you can get some yellow, that can be mixed with the white to give you a bleached bone colour that can in turn be mixed with the blue. Or alternatively grab some bleached bone anyway, I say yellow instead because it's a useful colour for lightening red and brown too. If you want to be a super ninja, though, you can get bleached bone, and then mix green in to get a more solid yellow. But it will be sickly looking. Which is great for some stuff, like the unnatural glow of futurism. In unrelated news, I accidentally used 4 layers of shading/highlighting on my cyclops pants without meaning to; black, purple, purple/red mix, scarlet red. They look pretty groovy. I want to finish them off and then do a half-assed DIY lightbox pic to get feedback, tonight.  I'm kind of excited. I forgot how much my inner sperg loves to use a tiny detail brush to painstakingly trace contours that should, by all rights, be drybrushed, instead. Edit: @Torabi, you have a very nice sister.
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Aug 17, 2011 18:18
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Recursive Expanse posted:I've been putting together some ideas before I decide on a theme for quote:I found this old smithsonian crystal growing kit, has anyone been Never heard of it, but it never hurts to try things. This hobby is entirely based on trial and error. The ingredients for dipping was around for decades, but it wasn't until some weirdo tried to splatter it on a miniature that it became a global boom. quote:A question about chariot bases, I'd like to base the entire chariot. I'm pretty sure the GW chariot base is 50mm x 100mm. If you can find something called "plasticard", you can make your own. Plasticard is used for making signs and stuff, and the advantage for hobbyists is that it doesn't warp as much as cardboard or other materials, especially when you put paint or glue on it. quote:For a different project, I want to give an old Grom and Niblet a custom Just go with it, and use a coherent colour scheme. That is, use two or three colours to tie the army together, colours that are prevalent on all units in your army. It should turn out great, as gobbo armies are usually cool as hell. Good luck!
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Aug 17, 2011 18:39
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The khaki something color and green something that is used for Imperial Guard seem to defy the laws of physics. What is going on. They are both these dry looking powders (or did I just get old paints?) yet when you open it they are liquidly on top. I turn it upside down and the "water" doesn't run down to the lid.  What is going on here and are they supposed to be like that?
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Aug 17, 2011 18:43
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Torabi posted:The khaki something color and green something that is used for Imperial Guard seem to defy the laws of physics. What is going on. No, they're old and settled. Get a stick or a brush you don't care about and stir them thoroughly. Then agitate them. Then go back to the store, agitated, and shake the paint covered stick at the clerk. It's his fault. He did this to you.
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Aug 17, 2011 18:46
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Do you guys have any advice on applying base to a 40k plastic model in a high humidity climate? The most humidity tolerant base I could find at my FLGS is only rated up to 60%, however, I live in south Louisiana and it is rarely below 75%. Is there a certain basing paint I need to purchase or should I apply the base at a certain time of day? I do not have a garage.
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Aug 17, 2011 18:52
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:No, they're old and settled. Get a stick or a brush you don't care about and stir them thoroughly. Then agitate them. Then go back to the store, agitated, and shake the paint covered stick at the clerk. Wait was that sarcastic or is the paint really old?
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Aug 17, 2011 18:59
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Torabi posted:Wait was that sarcastic or is the paint really old? The paint is really old. Add some water and stir it up and they should work fine. Alternatively if they're new return them.
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Aug 17, 2011 19:01
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Torabi posted:Wait was that sarcastic or is the paint really old? Either very old or just stored improperly, like it had the lid opened a bit or something like that. Paints do tend to separate over time, but a good shake and a stir with a toothpick usually fixes it right up. If you bring the pot into the store and show the guy they will almost certainly replace it free. GW is a price-gouging fucker with mind-boggling decision making skills, but they're drat good at fixing mistakes, at least. quote:Do you guys have any advice on applying base to a 40k plastic model in a high humidity climate? The most humidity tolerant base I could find at my FLGS is only rated up to 60%, however, I live in south Louisiana and it is rarely below 75%. Is there a certain basing paint I need to purchase or should I apply the base at a certain time of day? I do not have a garage. If you can't reasonably expect to spray paint ever, then your options for good priming are to buy an airbrush, or start using gesso.
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Aug 17, 2011 19:10
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bhsman posted:If I have an HP Photosmart C4480, can I print my own decals? Less dumb question: Anyone have any experience making their own decals?
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Aug 17, 2011 19:15
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bhsman posted:Less dumb question: Anyone have any experience making their own decals? BoLS had an article on that, before they started sucking. I'd link you but it's a personal no-fly zone. :P
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Aug 17, 2011 19:30
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Dominion posted:Either very old or just stored improperly, like it had the lid opened a bit or something like that. Paints do tend to separate over time, but a good shake and a stir with a toothpick usually fixes it right up. I stirred it with a toothpick and it is really thick. A lot thicker than usual. Should I just go back to the store? It looked like all of the khaki and the green paint (gah can't remember the name) were like that. Also, they don't look like the other paints either. They are slightly bigger and have a black lid, along with a clear body. Is that a different sort of paint that maybe is just thicker or something. Guess I could order the paints directly from GW.
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Aug 17, 2011 19:36
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You can 'repair' it by mixing in some water. If you're not comfortable with that, try to explain to the man that you're new at the hobby aren't comfortable working with paint that's been on his shelf too long. The different style of bottle probably indicates that those paints are several years old.
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Aug 17, 2011 19:41
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Hey guys, just a quick update on my progress. I had a few hours last night and with my new paints went to town on this guy. So far I'm really liking the way everything turned out, the gun metal I think looks pretty cool and I like the way the gold turned out as well: http://smokmnky.imgur.com/khador_destroyer#knEzW I ran out of time last night and didn't want to mix up any more gold so that's why the axe isn't finished yet. I also need to finish up the shoulder spikes w/ some black and gold as well. Thoughts, suggestions, criticisms? All are welcome smokmnky fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Aug 17, 2011 |
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Aug 17, 2011 19:49
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Kibner posted:Do you guys have any advice on applying base to a 40k plastic model in a high humidity climate? The most humidity tolerant base I could find at my FLGS is only rated up to 60%, however, I live in south Louisiana and it is rarely below 75%. Is there a certain basing paint I need to purchase or should I apply the base at a certain time of day? I do not have a garage. Black gesso is the way to go if your weather sucks for spraying and you can't do it inside a garage or something. Where I live it's usually raining, snowing, humid or too windy for sprays, so I do most of my priming with gesso. It's not perfect, and I do spray now and then when the weather allows it, but I wouldn't get anything done if I waited for better weather conditions. Gesso can be found in art shops, and it is normally used for preparing canvases. You paint it on quite roughly, and then it contracts as it dries. Be careful not to pool too much of it in recesses, as it can get kind of goopy. It has more tooth than most sprays, which some people doesn't like. It is more fragile, especially on metal miniatures before you get a layer of paint on top of it, so be sure to seal your miniature with some vanish after you paint it. While gesso has all these disadvantages, it kicks rear end for people dealing with crappy weather. It's also super cheap when you compare it to sprays, my tub of gesso has lasted for several years, a couple of armies and a ton of terrain projects. smokmnky posted:Hey guys, just a quick update on my progress. I had a few hours last night and with my new paints went to town on this guy. So far I'm really liking the way everything turned out, the gun metal I think looks pretty cool and I like the way the gold turned out as well: Nice, now you should start to see the immense difference of getting paint on all parts of the model instead of having to stare at all that primer. Do you have some washes? Hitting some washes in the borders between the parts will make them stand out more and make the details more visible. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Aug 17, 2011 |
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Aug 17, 2011 19:50
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Torabi posted:I stirred it with a toothpick and it is really thick. A lot thicker than usual. Should I just go back to the store? It looked like all of the khaki and the green paint (gah can't remember the name) were like that. Aha, that may be the thing. Some time ago (within the past year or so), GW switched from this:  To this:  For their regular paints. Foundations and washes always came in that second "bullet" style pot, but if you got a pot that looks like the fist one it's at least a year old. So, up to you. It's probbably fine to use, just thin it a bit more. But if it bothers you you can easily go back and complain and get a new pot.
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Aug 17, 2011 19:52
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Dominion posted:Aha, that may be the thing. Some time ago (within the past year or so), GW switched from this: Ah, short memories. I've still got a bunch of washes and inks at home (some still liquid) in the second pot style here - and it turns out, that's not the oldest. Curiously (or not so curiously) the paints that are still liquid are the ones in the pop-top pots, where the bullet-style screw caps have all dried out, presumably because the dried paint gumming up the threads let the air in. Gonna go get my paints back in a couple of weeks. Pretty stoked about that. Slightly worried for my carpet though, but hey, that's what newspaper is for.
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