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Screw caps are poo poo. Before the black flip-tops, GW ran a line of black screw tops (second from right in your image). I have a handful of those, all totally dried out and useless, while my white flip tops (second from the left) that are probably five years older are all just fine.
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Aug 17, 2011 20:08
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thespaceinvader posted:
Screw caps were the worst, and would dry up in weeks. The old hexagon shaped ones from the 80's-90's were sooo good, I still have some and they haven't dried a single bit. True story: the Dead Sea Scrolls survived because they were sealed in old hexagonal GW paint pots.
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Aug 17, 2011 20:09
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lilljonas posted:Nice, now you should start to see the immense difference of getting paint on all parts of the model instead of having to stare at all that primer. Do you have some washes? Hitting some washes in the borders between the parts will make them stand out more and make the details more visible. I have some devlan mud, black badab and a "flesh" wash from P3 (i believe). I used the Devlan on my other 'jack to do a brassy color that I didn't like as much as the gold/silver combo I have on this one
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Aug 17, 2011 20:10
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thespaceinvader posted:Ah, short memories. Yeah, same here. I got some old paints from a friend and the screwtops are all crayons at this point, while the flip-tops stayed usable.
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Aug 17, 2011 20:11
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Anything is better than the screwtop abortions that they used before the flip tops. At least they made decent terrain pieces, because the paint would practically dry out before you even got home from the store. EFB like a Chaos cultist on a shrine world.
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Aug 17, 2011 20:11
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My flip caps are probably 10 years old I think. Settled out to hell, but otherwise fine. A good shake, they'll be up and running. WHich is good, because I really don't have the money to burn.
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Aug 17, 2011 20:12
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Ok this primer discussion is making me worry slightly. I don't have anywhere I can really spray stuff on, so I have been using the Vallejo primer which does say you can brush it on. Aside from taking a while, is there a downside to this that I've been missing? I haven't painted anything I'm deeply attached to yet but I would like to know if the paint is suddenly going to fly off my little dudes or something.
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Aug 17, 2011 20:37
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I have flip tops from at least 16 years ago that are fine. Most of my GW paints from last year are sludgy gunk. gently caress GW paint pots.Hal Gill username posted:Ok this primer discussion is making me worry slightly. I don't have anywhere I can really spray stuff on, so I have been using the Vallejo primer which does say you can brush it on. Aside from taking a while, is there a downside to this that I've been missing? Brushed on primer that isn't gesso will never be especially smooth, and it may not hold as well as something sprayed on. If you have to brush, I'd say get some gesso, it's horrible but it will give a smooth finish. Either way, if you're worried about chipping put down a coat of (brushed on) matt on plastics and gloss then matt on metal. Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Aug 17, 2011 |
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Aug 17, 2011 20:37
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Hal Gill username posted:Ok this primer discussion is making me worry slightly. I don't have anywhere I can really spray stuff on, so I have been using the Vallejo primer which does say you can brush it on. Aside from taking a while, is there a downside to this that I've been missing? No, but I think brush-on primer requires you to be more careful than, say, gesso, which is a little more forgiving.
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Aug 17, 2011 20:38
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Dominion posted:No, but I think brush-on primer requires you to be more careful than, say, gesso, which is a little more forgiving. Yeah I am finding I have to go nice and easy so I don't end up with bubbles, and at least two coats seem to be required. On the other hand I can get the primer at a store 5 minutes from where I live and the nearest art shop is a ways away. I guess I should give gesso a shot at some point so I can compare though.
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Aug 17, 2011 20:40
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I just want to say thanks for all the good advice about priming! Hopefully I can start that process this weekend.
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Aug 17, 2011 21:18
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Dominion posted:Aha, that may be the thing. Some time ago (within the past year or so), GW switched from this: Mystery solved! I'll just go to the store and tell them. I'll probably just order directly from GW.
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Aug 17, 2011 22:07
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Torabi posted:Mystery solved! I'll just go to the store and tell them. I'll probably just order directly from GW. gently caress that. Go to http://www.thewarstore.com and order a bunch of Reaper Master Series triads and singles in the colors you want. You get more paint, better bottles (droppers with a pewter skull agitator) and they're like $1.50 cheaper. With Reaper's HD line, you don't even need to buy GW Foundation paints any more either. gently caress GW.
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Aug 17, 2011 22:16
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So uhh... I got bored, and all I had was a scalpel and some lolly sticks. And a steel ruler, cutting mat, primer and my whole painting collection. This is what I eneded up with! I'm pleased with it as a first effort  Only thing I've ever made! Apart from a keyring I made once in Design Tech ten years ago...   I'm quite proud of it, it came out surprisingly well considering I didn't plan it before I started it!
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Aug 17, 2011 22:22
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Silhouette posted:gently caress that. Go to http://www.thewarstore.com and order a bunch of Reaper Master Series triads and singles in the colors you want. You get more paint, better bottles (droppers with a pewter skull agitator) and they're like $1.50 cheaper. With Reaper's HD line, you don't even need to buy GW Foundation paints any more either. gently caress GW. This. Even if you want GW paints (which is fine), you'll still save money by ordering from thewarstore.
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Aug 17, 2011 22:24
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I fixed up my other two Morats to match the things I changed on the third. Working on the fourth, hopefully be done tomorrow. I think this force is gonna be awesome, but there's so much more to go. I should really do a Daturazi next. I'm pretty overwhelmed at this point with the amount of painting I have planned, I've been really good about painting the stuff I'm buying since I started painting again a couple months ago, but now my purchases are starting to really grow faster than my ability to paint. I have ten marines, 3 terminators and a dreadnought partially done, and two whole infinity armies primed and they're all sitting on the table laughing at me because it's probably 2 months or more worth of painting and I want it all to be done now  .
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Aug 18, 2011 02:52
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Brushed on primer that isn't gesso will never be especially smooth, and it may not hold as well as something sprayed on. If you have to brush, I'd say get some gesso, it's horrible but it will give a smooth finish. When you say "horrible", do you mean it's hard to work with or difficult to clean up or what am I getting in for, here? I have had some chipping issues but I imagine they would get better if I would stop dropping the minis. Spaz hands 
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Aug 18, 2011 03:25
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I only used it on half a dozen infantry models but I remember it being as tedious as glopping on a super thick paint sounds, wrecking the brush I was using, and having it not cover some raised tips and recessed details. Still better than using a normal brush on primer, but I'd choose to airbrush every time.
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Aug 18, 2011 03:58
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:I only used it on half a dozen infantry models but I remember it being as tedious as glopping on a super thick paint sounds, wrecking the brush I was using, and having it not cover some raised tips and recessed details. Thanks. I suppose I should try some gesso and see if I can deal with it and how it compares to the primer I'm using now. There is no airbrush in the forseeable future, alas. e: I am not ashamed to say that those are some sexy orks. vvvvvvv Giant Tourtiere fucked around with this message at 04:26 on Aug 18, 2011 |
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Aug 18, 2011 04:20
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Well I finished ten more boyz. I'm really proud of the goggles on the ork on the top right. 
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Aug 18, 2011 04:24
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Well I finished ten more boyz. I'm really proud of the goggles on the ork on the top right. These are great. What do you use on the guns? Just black with a gray highlight?
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Aug 18, 2011 04:27
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Xombie posted:These are great. What do you use on the guns? Just black with a gray highlight? Thanks! The metal starts with a base of boltgun metal with a bit of black and mecharius orange mixed in. Then I drybrush with straight boltgun and then heavily wash with badab black. Bonus gratuitous horde footage!  But wait? What's this? Why it's one of the first models I ever painted, a tactical marine from the Grim Reapers Chapter! Lost to the warp since 1992, this stalwart brother has managed to survive where countless others have succumbed to the ravages of time and Simple Green.  Maybe they'll all be friends? 
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Aug 18, 2011 04:46
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Hal Gill username posted:When you say "horrible", do you mean it's hard to work with or difficult to clean up or what am I getting in for, here? Gesso is notorious for leaving small spots uncovered once it dries, due to it shrinking a lot. This happens all the time if you paint metals: some of the most elevated parts, places where you want to highlight later, will be exposed as the paint shrink away. This is not a great problem IMHO as a quick brush-up on those parts with more gesso will fix it. Mind you, spray also does this to a certain degree, as you might find to cover some deep crevasses, from below and such. When I spray I usually have to go over the model with a brush anyway, as I miss stuff. Both methods are likely to need touch-ups. But yeah, don't use a nice expensive brush for gesso, a crappy dollar brush will do. This is less of a problem than it sounds like, as you don't need to be very exact when you paint it on. Gesso is rough on the brush, and I find it to be little bit harder to clean up than normal acrylics if you get it on textiles, wood and stuff, so make sure to put some newspapers on your painting area. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 05:23 on Aug 18, 2011 |
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Aug 18, 2011 05:20
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Torabi posted:Mystery solved! I'll just go to the store and tell them. I'll probably just order directly from GW. Those other guys told you to buy from the warstore, but since you're a swede iirc a better option would be game maniacs since buying from the us will needlessly shaft you on tarrifs.
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Aug 18, 2011 05:21
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lilljonas posted:But yeah, don't use a nice expensive brush for gesso, a crappy dollar brush will do. This is less of a problem than it sounds like, as you don't need to be very exact when you paint it on. Yeah, gesso shrinks a lot when it dries. Before I got addicted to my airbrush it's what I used to prime my models, and I loved it.
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Aug 18, 2011 05:23
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   What should I do next? I can't figure out if I want him to have lacquered armor, or metal armor. He is basically a walking suit of armor, so... its kinda important that it looks good.
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Aug 18, 2011 06:28
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bhsman posted:Less dumb question: Anyone have any experience making their own decals? I just did one for one of my deathstrikes. It was a pain in the rear end to get it sized right, my printer kept wanting to monch the decal paper, and I used too much clearcoat trying to seal the paper, so it ended up getting a teensy blotchy looking. Also I ended up having to paint a white circle to place the thing on so the color balance came out right and white spaces showed (you don't always notice the white spaces when designing the logo). But on the upside, I was weathering the thing, so I could mitigate a couple of the problems with the application of a little paint on top, like the thing was flaking off. All in all it took me five or six decals before I
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Aug 18, 2011 06:31
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dexefiend posted:
Mordekaiser?  I'm not sure where you can go with him to be honest. I think metal is the way to go, but all one solid block of color might not look so hot.
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Aug 18, 2011 08:16
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Some very nice stuff on this page, let me spoil it... In an attempt to clear the painter's block which has been killing my mojo for months I've decided to do some sloppy colour tests. Quality isn't the goal, I just want to try out various different schemes and see what works, what doesn't, and what is fun. And actually do some painting. Model number 1, a Minotaur, ignore the base, he was in a horrific accident with a can of Ford Aztec Bronze. 
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Aug 18, 2011 08:33
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Dominion posted:This. Even if you want GW paints (which is fine), you'll still save money by ordering from thewarstore. Oh. I see. I bet shipping will completely rip me off though. Still, are those colors the same when it comes to the paint itself. As in, Catchan Green is also available there? Khadhul posted:Those other guys told you to buy from the warstore, but since you're a swede iirc a better option would be game maniacs since buying from the us will needlessly shaft you on tarrifs. Wonderful, didn't notice your post at first. Thank you.
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Aug 18, 2011 09:42
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dexefiend posted:
Really like this so far. You could paint him in the silver version of the gold knight someone did a page or so back. Break up some of the colour by painting the cloth under the armour/between sections a really deep dark green, then add detailing like the wrap on the handle/bits of decoration in a dark red/shades of brown. Keep it darker than the eyes but still visibly red and it should look really cool.
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Aug 18, 2011 09:47
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I've been working on and off on this guy since the Space Hulk release. He's been my test model for various different techniques (Wet Blending, Edge Highlighting, NMM and glazing), he's also been painted in about 3 different Chapters colour schemes until I went back to the default, yet all I see is Superman.
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Aug 18, 2011 10:21
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Have you tried making his robe yellow (part of the codex Librarian uniform) and the gun black ? Might help.
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Aug 18, 2011 10:24
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Have you tried making his robe yellow (part of the codex Librarian uniform) and the gun black ? Might help. Quickly repainted the robe and it's a definite improvement, I'll try black/dark grey on the bolter next just hope it doesn't merge too much with the grey colours I painted on the metal parts of the bolter. 
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Aug 18, 2011 10:50
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I agree, that looks much better. If you're worried about the greys then maybe just drop the red down into a darker, moodier shade ? Should still tie in with the other reds without being so eyecatching.
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Aug 18, 2011 11:11
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I preferred Supermarine. Really like that axe.
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Aug 18, 2011 11:19
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If you want a bit of freehand to add detail to his cloth, in the older fluff Librarians displayed rank as a pattern in black on there. You probably already know this but the picture below is showing the marking for the senior rank, Epistolary. For the next rank down (Codicier) you would remove the skull, and for the equivalent of a scroll caddy (Lexicanium), you remove the spikes as well. 
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Aug 18, 2011 11:35
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How on earth does one even do those little lines along the contours of the model? Is that where you use bleached bone?
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Aug 18, 2011 13:05
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Torabi posted:How on earth does one even do those little lines along the contours of the model? Is that where you use bleached bone? Bleached Bone was likely used in combination for the terminator honors and horned skulls. The highlights on the blue armor look almost completely white, which means it is likely a few light applications of Skull White. Bleached Bone is light, but has a tinge of yellow/brown in there. Hive Fleet Kraken uses Bleached Bone as its "skin" color, so I have managed to go through a few pots of it in my time. I stayed home sick yesterday and knocked out some more Genestealers for my oath.  (Pardon the lovely lighting, this was taken at night and my indoor lighting isn't exactly stellar)
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Aug 18, 2011 13:22
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Torabi posted:How on earth does one even do those little lines along the contours of the model? If you mean the light colors on the edges of the armor, it's a combination of a small brush and using the side of it, rather than the tip of it. It's actually a lot easier to do than it looks, but getting them that thin takes practice.
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Aug 18, 2011 15:49
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