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I've got a CEL and it looks like both the upstream and downstream o2 sensor, should I care at all?
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Aug 13, 2011 04:05
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I would care, what are the codes? You really dont want to run rich and kill the cat if you can help it. How is it actually running? I noticed my car is/was getting a lot of black soot on the bumper and i could smell gas on cold startups
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Aug 13, 2011 04:16
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Can't remember the codes, have to check that again tomorrow. It hasn't run one iota different since it came on, but the guy at Autozone priced them in "let me ask the Internet how important this is" territory.
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Aug 13, 2011 04:21
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You might not necessarily need to replace the o2 sensors, but if you happen to, universal ones can be had for ~$35 each, you just have to splice the wires yourself instead of it coming with a handy connector. But yeah get the codes again
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Aug 13, 2011 04:35
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aventari posted:You might not necessarily need to replace the o2 sensors, but if you happen to, universal ones can be had for ~$35 each, you just have to splice the wires yourself instead of it coming with a handy connector. Yeesh that's better than like the 150 bucks each he quoted me
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Aug 13, 2011 04:43
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Do driveshafts and axle shafts from the 1.6 cars fail with any kind of frequency? I have a bunch of parts left over from parting out a '91 and I'm trying to decode what to keep as spares for my '90 and what to pitch in the dumspter behind the McDonald's down the street. 
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Aug 13, 2011 11:03
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GD_American posted:Yeesh that's better than like the 150 bucks each he quoted me Precat o2 is important, other one I wouldn't worry about too much. If the front one is dead, it's probably dumping in a lot more fuel than it needs too.
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Aug 13, 2011 16:16
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e: NVM!
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Aug 13, 2011 19:10
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Mr.AARP posted:Congrats on your purchase. I guess I'll be the token guy that says to invest in a rollbar. Thanks, I might build a rollbar when my friend gets back from iraq. We haven't used his tubing bender yet so it will be good practice for the cage in our lemons car. I checked the VIN before I bought the car and it was well over when they used the long nose crank. The pulley also has 8 slots so it definitely has the later 1.6 engine.
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Aug 13, 2011 20:14
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NinjaTech posted:Thanks, I might build a rollbar when my friend gets back from iraq. We haven't used his tubing bender yet so it will be good practice for the cage in our lemons car. Sounds good. Just be sure to use some high quality DOM tubing (I used 1.75"x0.095" with 1/8" backing plates) and have fun on the twisties!
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Aug 13, 2011 20:23
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Mr.AARP posted:Sounds good. Just be sure to use some high quality DOM tubing (I used 1.75"x0.095" with 1/8" backing plates) and have fun on the twisties! I was planning on it. We have at least 100ft of 1.75 DOM sitting in his shop. I've got to wait for a month until the next autocross event to really try the car out. 
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Aug 13, 2011 20:32
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DreamOn13 posted:One of the long bolts on the PPF to diff would not budge unless I took an impact to it, so hopefully you're prepared for that. It isn't even rusty, either. Yeah I've got airtools. Unfortunately I just blew the engine up in my WRX though so I'm not chancing something going wrong and having my SV or DRZ becoming my only form of transport...
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Aug 14, 2011 00:48
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Aug 15, 2011 04:37
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I picked up a hard top on sunday for $880. I think it looks awesome with it on there. I'm really happy that I was able to find a mariner blue one for a good price and so soon. It's got a couple little spots that need to be touched up but nothing too bad.
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Aug 17, 2011 04:33
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A week or so ago my car made a really nasty low pitched grinding noise when turning right into a parking spot. Since then it's happened a couple more times. It happens only when turning right at full lock or close to full lock. It almost sounds like the tire is rubbing on something, but a cursory glance in the wheel well doesn't raise any concern. I haven't had a chance to really get under the car and look at the suspension, but has anyone else encountered anything like this?
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Aug 17, 2011 05:57
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Previa_fun posted:A week or so ago my car made a really nasty low pitched grinding noise when turning right into a parking spot. Since then it's happened a couple more times. It happens only when turning right at full lock or close to full lock. My mom's Lexas did that. The shop said it was a torn boot.
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Aug 17, 2011 15:36
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Mezmerized Machine posted:My mom's Lexas did that. The shop said it was a torn boot. Is your mom's "Lexas" FWD? That sounds like a CV joint, but the Miata is decidedly not FWD, and I don't see an issue with a halfshaft on the back of the car only coming into play while turning.
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Aug 17, 2011 16:49
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Maybe coming from the diff only in low speed high slip?
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Aug 17, 2011 17:43
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I would be you're rubbing on the fender liner or the undertray. Try some full-lock low speed turns and see where the noise is coming from, then take off that wheel and look for rub marks. I bet a bolt holding the undertray or something is missing. Mezmerized Machine posted:My mom's Lexas did that. The shop said it was a torn boot. lol
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Aug 17, 2011 18:44
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beatdown posted:Maybe coming from the diff only in low speed high slip? Torsen type don't grind unless the gears are in pieces.
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Aug 17, 2011 18:53
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What's the current going rate on a miata (NA/NB) with the following parts: Good Condition Body/Top Hard Dog Track Legal Bar (whichever) Race Seats/Harnesses Torsen Aftermarket Suspension (FM 1.5 or better) And how about the going rate for one with the above plus a well-rounded FM2 turbo kit? Asking because I finally saved up the money to fix/upgrade my '92 to track-ready and painted. Between the uninstalled Torsen, hard top and various parts it has on it I think I can get $4000 for it ($2.5k for car, ~$800 for top, ~$800 for torsen)... but if it's going to cost me $4k to replace the top, paint it, put a rollbar in it and replace the seats and put in harnesses, it might make more sense to drop $8k on a car that's already done, especially if turbo cars can be had close to that price range. I tried looking on miata.net but not much can be seen.
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Aug 17, 2011 19:06
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Blaise posted:What's the current going rate on a miata (NA/NB) with the following parts: How much tracking are you going to do with the car? If the car is going to be fair weather/track only you're better off just removing the soft top in its entirety and running with the hard top on track. Hard top on track means no arm restraints for most clubs, also doesn't surround you with a pointy metal death cage in case you roll it. One more added bonus of being faster on track due to better aero. Seats and harnesses can be done for $1200 with Momo starts and Gforce 6-points. Depending on how tall you are you may want to also add a removable steering wheel. I'm only 5'6" and with how close I need to have my seat getting in/out is basically impossible without removing the wheel. If you care about SCCA classing all of that puts you in CSP.
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Aug 17, 2011 21:13
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Blaise posted:What's the current going rate on a miata (NA/NB) with the following parts: poo poo, I'd sell you my turbo'd 94 R package with rollbar, coilovers, and Sparco Sprint V's for $8k. I think you'd be able to find what you're looking for for around 5-6k for an NA.
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Aug 17, 2011 22:48
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FatCow posted:How much tracking are you going to do with the car? If the car is going to be fair weather/track only you're better off just removing the soft top in its entirety and running with the hard top on track. Summer car with track capability... NOT a track only car. Soft top is essential, it's why I own a miata. I would run hard top only at track. Yeah I figured $4k for the paint/harness/seats because the car needs a good bit of bodywork. $700 for the prep, $1300 for paint, $500 for a good top, $500 for seats $600 for the bar and $300 in harnesses roughly already brings me to $3900. Could be less could be more. I'm 6'2. Dunno what that means for my wheel. Don't give a flying gently caress about autocross rules, I have better ways to spend my Sunday than getting 2-3 minutes of seat time. No offense to the solo2 guys. DreamOn13 posted:poo poo, I'd sell you my turbo'd 94 R package with rollbar, coilovers, and Sparco Sprint V's for $8k. I think you'd be able to find what you're looking for for around 5-6k for an NA. Okay good. I'd even splurge and spend $10 for a really nice one. I'm just reluctant to spend $4k on fixing mine up if there's another $5k in turbo upgrades coming up down the road (which will probably happen). Blaise fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Aug 18, 2011 |
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Aug 18, 2011 02:12
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Well I got the NB that I've mentioned previously here, as there weren't any sings of serious damage anywhere and if having a few scratches on the door and mirrors means I can can get a good price on it, then that's just great. I'll post a few photos to show off once I get it washed and dive out somewhere nice with my SLR. The first impressions is that it's completely awesome despite being a very different experience compared to the relaxed and cushioned ride that my Omega has. I do seem to sit too high, higher even than in the Omega, relatively speaking, which is quite ridiculous. I guess as a result of that, all the mirrors are right in my face, and I end up having to turn my head a lot. Is this just how it is? Also, it turned out that the PO still had the broken antenna mast, however the end that goes in the car is obviously hosed up, and I'm trying to determine if I could stick it back there with some straightening. The problem is that I have no idea how the end is supposed to look like, and if straightening will do the job:  PS. The cable isn't broken.
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Aug 18, 2011 19:03
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You can put an s2000 antenna (fixed position) on it if all else fails.
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Aug 18, 2011 22:06
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Or put a plug over the hole and just wire in an aux input if you never use radio.
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Aug 19, 2011 13:18
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I'd rather fix it if I can do it for free or cheaply since I listen to the radio occasionally (traffic/cop info is nice), but either a small fixed antenna or a plug would do the job if I can't. It does seem that there's part of the broken mast still in the car, so a disassembly will be in order once it stops hailing (thankfully the car is in the company garage). Are there any instructions available on wiring in an aux-in to the standard radio?
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Aug 19, 2011 15:52
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mobby_6kl posted:Are there any instructions available on wiring in an aux-in to the standard radio? There definitely is. Ask Ziploc about it. I know for sure he's done it.
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Aug 19, 2011 16:09
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Depends on the radio, but I did it on the 96 Bose deck with no issues
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Aug 19, 2011 16:28
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mobby_6kl posted:Also, it turned out that the PO still had the broken antenna mast, however the end that goes in the car is obviously hosed up, and I'm trying to determine if I could stick it back there with some straightening. The problem is that I have no idea how the end is supposed to look like, and if straightening will do the job: In my NA when my antenna folded over backwards I just rounded it back out and shoved it back in the hole, it doesn't extend up all the way anymore(the bottom three sections are stuck), but it raises enough that I can pick up the local radio stations, but doesn't go all the way down, it sticks up about two inches unless I push it down.
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Aug 19, 2011 17:51
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Speaking of radio mods, would it be possible to just remove the head unit, install a super sexy "because race car" blanking plate where the head unit and cubby were, and just run from an aux input from a cheap chinese 2ch amp installed under the center console somewhere? Im no audio expert so what would be involved in this? I've got a base NA so audio quality isnt really an option and i'd rather just play everything off of an iphone without resorting to terrible FM transmitters. (my head unit doesnt have an AUX.... terrible) Flesh Croissant fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Aug 19, 2011 |
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Aug 19, 2011 18:45
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Yes you can do that. I've been trying to push that exact option to my friend with his old muscle car (nonstandard radio slot). No need for a head unit anymore... I use aux for everything. In my WRX I wouldn't do the same bc I have bluetooth setup but I'd never use that in the miata.
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Aug 19, 2011 19:39
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mattdizzleZ28 posted:Speaking of radio mods, would it be possible to just remove the head unit, install a super sexy "because race car" blanking plate where the head unit and cubby were, and just run from an aux input from a cheap chinese 2ch amp installed under the center console somewhere? Im no audio expert so what would be involved in this? I made an order through crutchfield thatcost $100 and came with: Head unit w/ detachable faceplace, USB(w/ ipod/phone control), aux in, remote control. also the in-dash kit(with a minor fitment issue, if I'm being honest, the dash kit has to flex to fit in the NA so you can't put the trim plate around the head unit, which is secured with screws through the dash kit), and the wiring harness adapter. All I did was call them and ask "What is the least I can spend and get a head unit with USB and AUX in?" and the real live person that was on the other end knew right away. tl;dr: look at crutchfield, you might just be able to buy a cheap head unit(even less than $100 I'd bet without the USB option).
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Aug 19, 2011 20:39
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Add on Aux-In modules work through an FM modulator that intercepts the radio antennae and broadcasts through a certain station when turned on. This will work with any head unit that has FM radio and you might need antennae adapters depending on the car. You can do without a head unit and use any amp, you'll just need an Ipod/Aux to RCA cable to provide signal. The cheap mini hifi or motorcycle amps work the same way.
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Aug 19, 2011 21:07
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I know Dual makes a super cheap single-DIN cassette deck that has aux-in. Crutchfield has it for $50, or in their scratch & dent for $40.
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Aug 19, 2011 22:01
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Add on Aux-In modules work through an FM modulator that intercepts the radio antennae and broadcasts through a certain station when turned on. This will work with any head unit that has FM radio and you might need antennae adapters depending on the car. The one I did had a switch and some wires soldered onto the back of the stock headunit. I had a jack out that I could plug my iPod into and when I flicked the switch mounted on the cubby, the headunit went into LINE and would play off of the iPod.
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Aug 19, 2011 22:26
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mattdizzleZ28 posted:Speaking of radio mods, would it be possible to just remove the head unit, install a super sexy "because race car" blanking plate where the head unit and cubby were, and just run from an aux input from a cheap chinese 2ch amp installed under the center console somewhere? Im no audio expert so what would be involved in this? I did this, I used this http://injoycarlife.com/radio-blanking-plates.php and http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Boat-FM...#ht_3177wt_1114 I had a really lovely headunit that barely worked and this was much much better and cleaner.
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Aug 19, 2011 22:30
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Phone posted:The one I did had a switch and some wires soldered onto the back of the stock headunit. I had a jack out that I could plug my iPod into and when I flicked the switch mounted on the cubby, the headunit went into LINE and would play off of the iPod. I could certainly buy some lovely Sencor unit that would play MP3s directly from USB or SD cards in addition to line in, but this sounds more like what I'd want to do, since the stock radio works just fine and an aftermarket one would be a theft magnet (it's a national sport here).
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Aug 19, 2011 23:03
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mattdizzleZ28 posted:Speaking of radio mods, would it be possible to just remove the head unit, install a super sexy "because race car" blanking plate where the head unit and cubby were, and just run from an aux input from a cheap chinese 2ch amp installed under the center console somewhere? Im no audio expert so what would be involved in this?
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Aug 19, 2011 23:28
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