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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I love what you've done with the front cab and will be shamelessly stealing it for my own project. The formula is basecoat with tin followed by watered down gun metal for a rusty feel. Over this paint a dark red, avoiding edges, rivets and creases, making it look rugged and worn. Over the dark paint a lighter red, leaving some of the dark showing. After this wash the exposed metal with badab black. Then do highlights with mithril silver on the metal and paint some scratches on the red areas. I used the same technique, but with blue, on the looted wagon. Halfway through  
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Sep 2, 2011 08:09
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Using a simplified version of this for my Ork Epic 40k army and it's awesome.
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Sep 2, 2011 11:01
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I'm gonna try airbrushing and hairspray weathering for my next vehicle. With any luck it should produce some really nice vehicles, and have the added bonus of being super quick to do most of the work.
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Sep 2, 2011 14:37
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lilljonas posted:Finally pouring the resin water. Will it look good when it dries? Who knows! My experience with clear resin is that it'll look exactly the sodding same. Makes it hard to tell when it's actually finished drying. Also my resin was 1:100 catalyst to resin but it doesn't actually work at that concentration. About 1:10 is when it stops being immediately tacky to the touch (and holding fingerprints incredibly).
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Sep 2, 2011 15:48
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Finally "finished" my first five Space Marines. I kind of rushed through the last two since I want to get started on my Imperial Guard. I'll have to try edge highlighting again. I keep forgetting to take pictures so I can't show what I did last time I tried it. Have to do that tomorrow. lilljonas posted:Fix: high five terrain brother! Looking good! Holy hell. That looks amazing! Edit: No posts since yesterday?! I need some help. I was just about to start painting the legs and torso of my first Imperial Guard. But then I notice that GW uses a million paints for the fatigues. I only bought Commando Khaki. They use that color as a highlight but the shock troop box seems to tell you that Commando Khaki should be applied over all of the fatigues as the main color. Will it look alright with a base coat of chaos black underneath it? Edit.. again: And here are all of my Space Marines finished! I didn't bother to try edge highlighting again on them though. I did some on the guy in the middle but it is barely noticeable.  Oldest on the right, newest on the left. Boar It fucked around with this message at 12:04 on Sep 3, 2011 |
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Sep 2, 2011 21:45
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Torabi posted:
With Khaki the faigues will come out looking very bright, also you will need lots of thin coats of it over black to get a smooth finish. Your best bet would be getting some Khemri Brown or Desert Yellow and using that as your base.
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Sep 3, 2011 12:12
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:With Khaki the faigues will come out looking very bright, also you will need lots of thin coats of it over black to get a smooth finish. Your best bet would be getting some Khemri Brown or Desert Yellow and using that as your base. So I'll add Khemri brown over the black base coat and then slap on the khaki.
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Sep 3, 2011 12:15
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Could I get some comments on these here ogres please goons? Specifically, what to do to highlight/enhance the rusted metals in the second pic. Cheers. 
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Sep 3, 2011 12:18
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Torabi posted:So I'll add Khemri brown over the black base coat and then slap on the khaki. When I started out painting, I found it was easier to stock up on the paints when I started the project. I dont know how much spare cash you have available so it might not be an option.
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Sep 3, 2011 12:20
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Uber Kosh posted:Could I get some comments on these here ogres please goons? Specifically, what to do to highlight/enhance the rusted metals in the second pic. Cheers. I found that this tutorial for the Skaven Doomwheel does some nice rust effects and verdigris effects which might help you out. http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/article.jsp?categoryId=&pIndex=4&aId=6000022a&multiPageMode=true&start=5 http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/article.jsp?categoryId=&pIndex=5&aId=6000022a&multiPageMode=true&start=6
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Sep 3, 2011 12:23
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:When I started out painting, I found it was easier to stock up on the paints when I started the project. I dont know how much spare cash you have available so it might not be an option. I have plenty of money.  I have to practice driving so I might as well drive down to the store right now and buy the paint. Is there anything else that you would consider "essential" for Imperial Guard? Uber Kosh posted:Could I get some comments on these here ogres please goons? Specifically, what to do to highlight/enhance the rusted metals in the second pic. Cheers. They look good. But personally, I would've preferred a slightly darker color of blue.
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Sep 3, 2011 12:23
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Torabi posted:I have plenty of money. Not really, just make sure you have all the paints available if you can, saves a lot of pain trying to mix the colours. What really helped me out with my painting was through some of the master classes in old White Dwarfs (they dont seem to do them anymore  ).
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Sep 3, 2011 12:29
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:Not really, just make sure you have all the paints available if you can, saves a lot of pain trying to mix the colours. What really helped me out with my painting was through some of the master classes in old White Dwarfs (they dont seem to do them anymore Alright. Thank you for the help. Now to go get me some Khemri Brown. And hopefully not crashing into somebody. Edit: I'm now back. But sadly, I came to the store 25 minutes after closing time due to me driving like a granny. I'll have to pick it up on Monday. I guess I can still cover them in chaos black? Still, the guy in the store (they have a second store that didn't have the paint since their main warhammer store is the closed one.) said that I should cover them in skull white instead. Thoughts? Boar It fucked around with this message at 15:33 on Sep 3, 2011 |
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Sep 3, 2011 12:31
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Is it normal for painted models to degrade over time? I recently got my old warhams back up from the basement and I could swear they looked better when I put them down there 4 years ago. Though it might just be due to me being a kid then and rose coloured nostalgia glasses  Also, it's a really bad idea to paint with 4 years old paint. some of it looks fine with some thinning, but holy poo poo my elf flesh, dwarf bronze and catachan green just look like crap. Can't wait for the paints I ordered to arrive, really exited to try out these new washes. QuasiQuack fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Sep 3, 2011 |
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Sep 3, 2011 21:53
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Probably half the paints I use are at least that old. The enchanted blue I use must be 12/13 years old by now.
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Sep 3, 2011 22:06
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Torabi posted:I guess I can still cover them in chaos black? Still, the guy in the store (they have a second store that didn't have the paint since their main warhammer store is the closed one.) said that I should cover them in skull white instead. Thoughts? Does he mean undercoating? A black undercoat will be more forgiving of mistakes as if you miss any really hard to reach places it will just look like deep shadow. W white undercoat will result in more vibrant colors.
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Sep 3, 2011 23:11
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I am not joking when I say that about half my paints are 3-4 year old vallejos, and the rest are 15 year old GW paints. They're fine as long as you store them properly and are careful to stir them properly (and probably thin them more aggressively). If you let a paint really dry out though, you might not be able to recover them. Particularly metals, once they start clumping its hardly worth fixing.
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Sep 4, 2011 00:27
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I need some advice as I think I may have just wasted a huge amount of my hobby time with my airbrush. I attempted to do preshading these past few weeks, I put on a grey primer coat, hit the areas that should be dark with black, hit the highlight areas with white and then finally today when I threw on my base coat color, you can barely tell I did any preshading at all. Is my paint too thick? Too dark? How should I proceed if I don't want the rest of my models to look the same? Is the preshading job terrible?  
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Sep 4, 2011 01:04
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You want to thin the basecoat colour quite a lot and apply it in a series of semi-trasnsparent coats. I think I did three to four coats on the Vindicator I posted earlier in this thread.
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Sep 4, 2011 01:07
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Ah, I see! Do you use windex/water or just straight water?
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Sep 4, 2011 01:30
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Vallejo acrylic thinner, it works out cheaper to buy in the 200ml bottle than their paint sized bottles. It's also a good idea to decant some into a smaller bottle, straining any small dried bits out. The straining will reduce the chance of you getting any little bits jamming up your airbrush/spoiling the finish on the model. Try a ratio of 1:10 paint to thinner to start. I also add a single drop of Vallejo drying retarder to help reduce build up on the needle.
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Sep 4, 2011 02:15
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I went to a hobby store and bought some misc items including Vajello paint; the fellow at the counter told me that the paint doesn't need thinning. Who do I believe?
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Sep 4, 2011 02:35
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VGC (grey cap vallejo) dont need any thinning at all out of the bottle, I find if anything they can be TOO thin. Basically every other brand of paint you need to thin, and Im sure there are some VGC colors that are thicker and maybe need some thinning, but generally they do not.
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Sep 4, 2011 03:11
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PaintVagrant posted:VGC (grey cap vallejo) dont need any thinning at all out of the bottle, I find if anything they can be TOO thin. In addition to this, if they're Vallejo Model Air paints (black cap) they're pre-thinned for airbrush usage and you shouldn't need to thin them for regular brushwork.
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Sep 4, 2011 03:17
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PaintVagrant posted:VGC (grey cap vallejo) dont need any thinning at all out of the bottle, I find if anything they can be TOO thin. A lot of the mid blues and cold grays are thicker. The yellows and reds are VERY thin.
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Sep 4, 2011 03:35
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Work in progress of my Captain.
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Sep 4, 2011 04:13
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Does he mean undercoating? A black undercoat will be more forgiving of mistakes as if you miss any really hard to reach places it will just look like deep shadow. W white undercoat will result in more vibrant colors. Yeah he meant undercoat it with white. Still, I doubt I'll do anything with Warhammer for a little while. The world really doesn't want me to get that Khemri Brown. Woke up at 3am today with immense chest pains. Turns out I have an infected Pancreas. Wonderful..
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Sep 4, 2011 16:05
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!amicable posted:A lot of the mid blues and cold grays are thicker. The yellows and reds are VERY thin. I'm using Somber Grey, which I tried mixing with windex for a milky consistency, but it appears I need to thin it further. I don't have vallejos thinning medium, not sure I can find it anywhere local either. Is there an alternative I can try while waiting on a warstore shipment?
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Sep 4, 2011 17:13
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Bavius posted:I'm using Somber Grey, which I tried mixing with windex for a milky consistency, but it appears I need to thin it further. I don't have vallejos thinning medium, not sure I can find it anywhere local either. Is there an alternative I can try while waiting on a warstore shipment? Just increase the amount of windex. 2% milk is the consistency for standard brush painting, for an airbrush it needs to be like skim milk, almost like slightly thick water. It is a tough mixture to find but the more you do it the easier it is to judge. Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Sep 4, 2011 |
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Sep 4, 2011 17:32
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Alright, I'll try these suggestions, thanks for your help everyone.
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Sep 4, 2011 18:25
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Bavius posted:I'm using Somber Grey, which I tried mixing with windex for a milky consistency, but it appears I need to thin it further. I don't have vallejos thinning medium, not sure I can find it anywhere local either. Is there an alternative I can try while waiting on a warstore shipment? I use somber gray a lot and it is probably the thickest VGC that I have seen, maybe plague brown is also up there. So yeah, add more windex. I don't think that using the official thinning medium is worth it. Even 99% iso should be fine.
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Sep 4, 2011 19:25
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I'm buying Khemri Brown tomorrow even if the world throws a stroke at me.  So. I should I put on Skull White or Undercoat Black/Chaos black? Having more vibrant colors sounds nice so I might do skull white. But if that means that they look "cartoony" then I think I would rather do chaos black since that does look very good in the example article from GW. Also, after doing the base, do I just apply Khemri Brown and then Khaki? Seems like that is what they do in that Games Workshop guide at least. http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/c...questid=1073280
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Sep 4, 2011 20:47
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Torabi posted:I'm buying Khemri Brown tomorrow even if the world throws a stroke at me. Don't use citadel colors for an undercoat, you will need either a spray primer or brush on gesso. Don't trust those guides though, they have lots of omissions and substitutions in them. As for the colors, it looks like Khermi Brown with a wash of Ogryn Flesh on top (for the fatigues).
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Sep 4, 2011 21:39
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!amicable posted:Don't use citadel colors for an undercoat, you will need either a spray primer or brush on gesso. So I have to spend more money.  But where the hell do I get a spray paint thing. Can it be just about any black spray paint that isn't shiny or something? I could buy one from the store where I get my warhammer stuff. But people said those are bad? Edit: Now you said that I shouldn't use citadel paints for undercoat (Not sure why) but there is this: http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?prodId=prod1620040 Boar It fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Sep 4, 2011 |
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Sep 4, 2011 21:47
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Torabi posted:So I have to spend more money. Regular black or white Krylon paint works just fine.
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Sep 4, 2011 21:51
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Torabi posted:Now you said that I shouldn't use citadel paints for undercoat (Not sure why) but there is this: http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?prodId=prod1620040 Because the undercoat needs to be a specific fomula of paint that has a tooth, to stick to the miniature and allow additional layers of paint to stick to it. Normal miniature paint is just acrylic medium and pigment, lacking the tooth that gesso and spray primers have. The GW primer is fine to use. Krylon is also fine. Liquitex makes great gesso, but any brand of gesso should be fine, to be honest.
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Sep 4, 2011 21:54
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ghetto wormhole posted:Regular black or white Krylon paint works just fine. !amicable posted:Because the undercoat needs to be a specific fomula of paint that has a tooth, to stick to the miniature and allow additional layers of paint to stick to it. Normal miniature paint is just acrylic medium and pigment, lacking the tooth that gesso and spray primers have. You guys wont hate me if I buy that citadel spray thing, right? Since I might be lazy tomorrow and just buy it along with the khemri brown while I am at it. So much money spent on tiny plastic men and I have only glued a pair of legs and the torso of a guard on the base.
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Sep 4, 2011 21:54
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Torabi posted:You guys wont hate me if I buy that citadel spray thing, right? Since I might be lazy tomorrow and just buy it along with the khemri brown while I am at it. I think it's more expensive than Krylon, and sometimes you hear horror stories about GW primer, but I don't think it's actually any worse than stuff you can get at an art supply store.
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Sep 4, 2011 21:57
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So, primers: I have painting gear (and 2 Kolinsky sable brushes). I have a mini to paint which is already primed black and part-painted, but I'm probably going to take a pop at stripping it. What I don't have is a spray primer. I know I've heard some people saying that a basic spray primer is fine, and I'm thinking a mid-grey would suit me better than black or white. Is something like this reasonable? Also, for a UK painter, I think Dettol was mentioned as a good paint stripper for metal and plastic - do I recollect correctly? TIA.
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Sep 4, 2011 21:58
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!amicable posted:I think it's more expensive than Krylon, and sometimes you hear horror stories about GW primer, but I don't think it's actually any worse than stuff you can get at an art supply store. I just realized that I glued the legs and the torso together to the base. Meaning that the base will be ruined if I spray it.  Great. I guess I can paint the first one by hand? Boar It fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Sep 4, 2011 |
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Sep 4, 2011 21:59
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