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I've got a shitload of Deans connectors, some pushing 15-20 years old, and while they work well for anything at ~8V or less...on the 3S lipos I run an inverter off of, they're a bit underspec and they get a lot warmer than I like. I've got some of the Hobbyking XT60s or whatever they're called to try out, and if I like them I might switch my R/C stuff to them as well.
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Aug 24, 2011 06:38
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Laserface posted:Eflite/Losi connections are my connector of choice.
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Aug 24, 2011 19:04
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Laserface posted:Eflite/Losi connections are my connector of choice. I usually use Deans, however with Lipo battery packs I have been using Corolly Plugs
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Aug 25, 2011 00:02
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While I do love powerpoles and use them for all sorts of things, I use deans on all my RC stuff. They're nice and small and simple and work beautifully. Also, they're easy as hell to solder if you're somewhat practiced at soldering. A good chisel tip, clean surfaces and pre tinning the plug and the wire makes it pretty impossible to screw up.
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Aug 25, 2011 01:51
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InitialDave posted:They should make a plug format called Richard. It would let you plug a Dean and Anderson together using a penknife and duck tape rather than solder. This does not deserve to be ignored. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaQvBbzslJE 
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Aug 25, 2011 01:52
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May I bother you guys for a little advice? I have a computer worth around $150 posted to Craigslist. A guy offered me an HPI super nitro rs4 for it. He had the following to say about it: quote:Everythings alluminum except for the shock housings, it was all plastic, tons of spare parts, 2 speed transmission, tuned exhaust, upgraded motor (was .15 now .18) 2 remotes, about 3/4 gallons of gas, 2 sets of spare tires, hi speed servos, 4 bodies and tools and spare parts I've always wanted to get into R/C but it just hasn't happened, so this seems like it might be a way to do so. I really wanted brushless, but he claims this is worth a lot more than the computer and I could probably trade this for something else pretty easily. The car in question:  I'm tempted, but don't want to get boned if it's not as sweet as he makes it out to be.
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Aug 25, 2011 04:16
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They're old as hell and it's impossible to find parts for them anymore. It's also a pretty lousy design compared to more modern gear. That car is a little more than 10 years old iirc. I gave away two Nitro RS4 2's, which is pretty much the same car with a shorter chassis.
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Aug 25, 2011 04:17
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The aluminum is gimmicky as hell. That pipe looks like someone tortured an old MIP Stinger. The gas is useless if it's been sitting for any amount of time. The FM radios probably aren't worth much in the presence of cheap 2.4Ghz If that O.S. Max box has a brand-new engine in it it might be worth something though. But 1/10th Nitro is pretty dead these days.
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Aug 25, 2011 04:22
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that car is sunk_cost_fallacy.jpg
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Aug 25, 2011 04:24
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kuffs posted:that car is sunk_cost_fallacy.jpg Yikes. Thank you very much 
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Aug 25, 2011 06:11
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Yeah I wouldn't go with that as your re-introduction to RC. I *loved* racing my Super Nitro and he may have spent $$$'s on the aluminum and engine and radios, but 'value' doesn't always equal 'cost'. Get cash for your computer and put it towards an RTR short course truck or something.
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Aug 25, 2011 11:05
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You Am I posted:Deans hard to unplug? What, do you have the strength of a newborn baby? maybe its just the ones I got but they were ALWAYS too tight. i ended up looping a cable tie on most of them (on the ESC side) between the contacts to use to pull them apart. that and the soldering issues, i much prefer Eflite connectors now. less of a bitch to solder (still lovely but not as much) and way easier to use. I use Tamiya plugs for the speakers on my removable parcel shelf in my 180sx. I think thats all they are good for.
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Aug 26, 2011 04:25
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I remember people jerking it to Deans connectors 15 years ago and it was the same story, too hard to pull apart and too hard to solder. With a high wattage gun and lots of solder I could probably deal with them but to get a good bond you have to get the metal so hot it gets close to melting the connector housing. I prefer Anderson because the circular design allows me to melt solder inside of them and fuse the wire into the hole with a little bit of heat. I generally don't even use an iron, just a few seconds with a crack torch and you're good.
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Aug 26, 2011 16:17
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I've only had issues with deans getting tight if I hosed up the solder job. On the male plug, if you let the iron sit too long on it or blob too much solder on there, the solder will actually flow through the plastic and get underneath the spring on the connector. This puts WAY more pressure on it when you connect the two plugs making it hard to separate them. What I've found helps a ton when soldering deans plugs is to actually hook a male/female plug together while you're soldering. Prevents excess heat buildup and makes the "solder flowing under the connector spring" almost impossible to do. And yes, a nice iron helps a ton. Hakko 936 <3
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Aug 26, 2011 16:48
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I was clearing a load of stuff out and found my old rc cars (a Losi JRX Pro SE, a XX and an Associated RC10L2) and a load of shiny stuff that I bought when I last thought I'd have time to get back into things (a brushless motor which is something like a ModelTech XR with some insane rating like 6700kV, and an RC Lab Se7en 6.0 touring car which I built and then never used). Will the buggies explode in a shower of difficult-to-replace pieces if I try and use that insane-o motor in them? Will they be undriveable with something that powerful? Why did I buy such a ludicrous motor? (it had the biggest numbers, it must be the best one to get!) Oh, and are lipos of a similar capacity hugely better than NiMh? (lower internal resistance, perhaps?) They seem remarkably expensive, and even NiMhs go up to ~5300mAh now, which confuses my early-90s RC mind - 2000mAh was about all cells went up to when I last did anything RC-ish.. (Just testing on the street/car park for now, I'll see if I can find a club nearby and what classes they run) edit: Wow, a lot lower internal resistance for LiPo over NiMh. I really should read more before posting :s legooolas fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Aug 27, 2011 |
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Aug 27, 2011 01:04
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I don't know of the buggy drivetrains will explode in a shower of diff balls and gears, but you might want to really think about cleaning them up and selling them instead of running a massive brushless motor through them. I remember that touring car also, someone will want to buy it, try RC Tech forums.
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Aug 27, 2011 08:31
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I just got back into r/c after a long hiatus and have had a lot of new things to learn when it comes to electronics. For a battery primer check this out: http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo-batteries.html As for the motor question, you'll most likely melt a plastic gear or burn up motor/esc up before a transmission explodes.
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Aug 28, 2011 11:38
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I've got a couple of friends that are interested in making an RC-specific app - what sort of thing would you guys like to see? There are gear ratio apps and manufacturer apps that are just a collection of videos and manuals, but is there anything that isn't done already that would be cool to see?
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Aug 28, 2011 21:09
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quote:I don't know of the buggy drivetrains will explode in a shower of diff balls and gears, but you might want to really think about cleaning them up and selling them instead of running a massive brushless motor through them. I'm trying not to spend too much before I find a nearby club to race at and pick a class, so I'm planning on keeping the touring car at least, as long as I can get spare parts (and they don't seem too difficult, at least yet). (The JRX Pro SE at least will be going) quote:I've got a couple of friends that are interested in making an RC-specific app - what sort of thing would you guys like to see? Maybe something like a setup app? Put in what is going on with your car and what car it is and it gives you hints of setup changes (camber, springs, damping, suspension mount-points etc). That's something that would certainly have helped me in the past As another "reusing old stuff" question, will my old brushless motor controller be likely to work with LiPos (7.4V ones, so I'm not going over on the voltage the controller can handle) or will that be another thing that's likely to cause a horrible explosion and flames?
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Aug 29, 2011 00:19
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 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuNt0PUahTY
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Aug 29, 2011 02:59
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Now that's just crazy. Found some other videos. I wonder how big you could get before that'd stop working. Like, could you have something that people could ride in? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9AmM_kzaJJw http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81SDPqXjbec powderific fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Aug 29, 2011 |
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Aug 29, 2011 17:10
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krushgroove posted:I've got a couple of friends that are interested in making an RC-specific app - what sort of thing would you guys like to see? There are gear ratio apps and manufacturer apps that are just a collection of videos and manuals, but is there anything that isn't done already that would be cool to see? One thing that I've been toying with (and thinking more of a web-app than a mobile app, but same difference really) is a sort of 'garage' app. I'd love if it had setup sheets you could save on your phone, since I always seem to trash the paper ones thus negating their purpose. Probably would be a huge undertaking with all of the different vehicles out there, but maybe some basic stuff to start with. Race planner or Race-Day checklist (I always forget SOMETHING)... Results storing (input your finish position, fastest lap to see if you're improving)... One side project I'm on with one of the guys from our track is figuring out how to scrape useful info from RCSP to post on the site in a searchable, database-drive form. I know it's the de facto standard and is very well supported, but if you dig into it my god does RCSP suck. quote:As another "reusing old stuff" question, will my old brushless motor controller be likely to work with LiPos (7.4V ones, so I'm not going over on the voltage the controller can handle) or will that be another thing that's likely to cause a horrible explosion and flames? I'm pretty sure the only difference is the newer ones have a low-voltage cutoff, older ones don't? I could be mistaken, though. If you want good LiPos affordably, go Gens Ace from Hobbypartz.com. Much faster shipping than Hobby King (free shipping in 3 days!) and better overall quality than Turnigy in my limited experience. Mine have held up better than the ProTeks I had. TremorX fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Aug 30, 2011 |
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Aug 30, 2011 03:13
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quote:Race planner or Race-Day checklist (I always forget SOMETHING)... There are already apps for general checklist things, so in the meantime you could use one of those. (Shopping lists and that) quote:I'm pretty sure the only difference is the newer ones have a low-voltage cutoff, older ones don't? I strongly suspect you are right; I'll have to had a look at the manual for it to see if it can cut off when it gets to a certain voltage. If it can't then this could easily kill the lipos by over-discharging them, which would be an expensive mistake. quote:I could be mistaken, though. If you want good LiPos affordably, go Gens Ace from Hobbypartz.com. Much faster shipping than Hobby King (free shipping in 3 days!) and better overall quality than Turnigy in my limited experience. Mine have held up better than the ProTeks I had. I'm in the UK and haven't found any saddle-pack lipos cheap anywhere yet (although stick packs are pretty cheap, but my cars need saddles) :s I might stick to some cheap NiMhs until I really want to replace a load more stuff...
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Aug 30, 2011 14:13
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krushgroove posted:I've got a couple of friends that are interested in making an RC-specific app - what sort of thing would you guys like to see? There are gear ratio apps and manufacturer apps that are just a collection of videos and manuals, but is there anything that isn't done already that would be cool to see? I'd like to see an app with a layout of a chassis (maybe have a few chassisesis that you can swap between) , and you can click on all the parts and see the current settings you're running. So, top-down view of a short course truck, for instance. You can click on the right-rear wheel and up pops a window or speech bubble with toe, camber, tire, number of runs on the tire, etc. Click on a shock, see its preload, spring setup, oil weight, etc. It would also be nice to have a historical view, what did I run a month ago for all these parts? Let me take notes as well, so when I look back a month, not only can I see what I ran for settings, but I can take notes on how the car felt, what place I took, etc. And let me get nitty gritty with it. Include A-arm settings, roll center settings, steering knuckle hole settings, let me note what brand of part i'm running, when it was installed, when/why the old part failed, etc. THAT is the ultimate R/C app that I'd like to see.
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Aug 30, 2011 15:49
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My mate just gave me his 1st-gen Kyosho DST. I was intending to give it a strip down and get everything all cleaned up, and I believe the engine (GXR18) is in need of a piston and liner - anything else I should look into, or do to it when I have it apart?
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Sep 4, 2011 13:35
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Anyone have experience with the HPI RS32? 1/32 scale racer. would be great for my place since we have floorboards and no real yard to run larger stuff, and different to my Tomy Drift RCs I currently use inside. Bought a HPI slotcar GTR R34 on the weekend thinking it was a die-cast model. going back to get one for the old man as he loved slotcars back in the day, and theres a track/shop nearby too.
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Sep 5, 2011 02:47
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I was never into R/C as a kid (nobody would buy me one! :P) but I've been interested in a Slash for the past year or so. My roommate picked up a couple cheap Nitro truggies for herself and BF, so I got a Slash 4x4 with a couple Nimh batteries. Less than a week later and I've picked up an Onyx 235 charger, 5000mah 2s Lipo, JConcepts overtray, replacement front bumper (I know it's only a matter of time...), aftermarket rear bumper, and a duratrax pit tech stand. I'd like to replace the shocks, or at least the springs to start, and once I break a suspension arm or tower I'll probably grab a $99 alloy conversion set. I'd also like some wheels & tires for running in parking lots. I have an offroad short course track a few blocks from my house which is pretty convenient. I heard there can be heat issues with the overtray so I made a ghetto duct tape air intake (with thin foam filters) and opened some vents, but I don't have an IR temp sensor yet to see if it's actually helping at all.  
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Sep 5, 2011 15:56
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Oh, how far I have fell into this nerdy hobby.needknees, on February 1, 2011 posted:Just bought a 2wd Slash VXL And we've arrived here  
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Sep 5, 2011 18:33
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Laserface posted:Anyone have experience with the HPI RS32? 1/32 scale racer. would be great for my place since we have floorboards and no real yard to run larger stuff, and different to my Tomy Drift RCs I currently use inside. Should drive good on hardwood or super-low pile carpet, I've driven them on linoleum and they work really well there too. Although I work for HPI I would think about the Mini-Z, there's more bodies and more options available for those, at least at the moment. Kyosho also just announced micro versions of the Optima and Ultima with 4WD, check out RedRC.
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Sep 5, 2011 20:17
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krushgroove posted:Should drive good on hardwood or super-low pile carpet, I've driven them on linoleum and they work really well there too. Although I work for HPI I would think about the Mini-Z, there's more bodies and more options available for those, at least at the moment. Kyosho also just announced micro versions of the Optima and Ultima with 4WD, check out RedRC. Kyosho is ridiculously expensive though. the Dnano range looks awesome but again, $250 + parts for an RC the size of a kids foot doesnt add up. Ill ask another one - of the two losi micro crawlers (the trail trekker and the other one) which is considered better? we have some nice rocky area nearby that would be perfect for a tiny crawler.
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Sep 6, 2011 02:50
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Yeah I guess it's about economies of scale - not enough people buying it so the cost is much higher than it ought to be. I think nerobo ITT has the Trail Trekker, looks to me like it's meant to be the 'scale crawler' in that size, the other one is supposed to replicate a 'comp' or competition crawler. The chassis look pretty similar but the Trail Trekker seems like it has a longer wheelbase, plus the full-bodied scale look. IMO it's the better option.
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Sep 6, 2011 15:07
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krushgroove posted:Yeah I guess it's about economies of scale - not enough people buying it so the cost is much higher than it ought to be. I do. And it's awesome. I've got some 400mah LiPo's in it now. It will wheelie! however, it's not very fast, nor very exciting to drive unless you're driving it up something fun. I also have the mini SCT, which I took to a 1/10 scale track on sunday. I wish it were faster... but it handled everything pretty well. I was passing people with 1/10 SCT's. I'll blame that on being able to keep it on the course, and not on it's lid. The Mini SCT, and the Mini Rally cars handle carpet really well, and are quite fast. If you're looking for soemthing to drive around the house, the Mini SCT and Mini Rally cars are the hot ticket.
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Sep 6, 2011 16:57
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Nerobro posted:I do. And it's awesome. I've got some 400mah LiPo's in it now. It will wheelie! however, it's not very fast, nor very exciting to drive unless you're driving it up something fun. I have a Mini SCT and its great fun although the track I was running at near my old job was really dry, hard packed and dusty. challenging to get around with 2wd and tiny cars with lots of power. gonna look into the trail trekker BnD as i already have 2.4ghz gear from the mini SCT.
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Sep 7, 2011 06:41
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Laserface posted:I have a Mini SCT and its great fun although the track I was running at near my old job was really dry, hard packed and dusty. challenging to get around with 2wd and tiny cars with lots of power.
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Sep 7, 2011 07:44
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Awesome work, needknees! We had a big labor day weekend race in Savannah.. I didn't place, but I had a great time. I really had a competitive truck in the XXX-SCT, but the Novak Ballistic I bought the day before had a bad sensor and poo poo my day up. I played around with my D8, but didn't race in the main. The suspension was way too stiff, making it really hard to drive. It would bounce off of jumps and I just couldn't get it to plant well enough to get a rhythm going. I'll try again next race. Some pics:    
TremorX fucked around with this message at 00:14 on Sep 8, 2011 |
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Sep 8, 2011 00:12
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I saw a Traxxas Summit at a shop the other day, and it looks awesome. Love the remote difflocks and gearshift - bit pricey, but not totally insane.
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Sep 8, 2011 20:39
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Ran my on road electric car again last night during a competition night. You could tell the different between a 5000Mah 3.5C Lipo and a 5000Mah 5C Lipo. The punch out of the corners was amazing, I could keep up with them in the straights, but as soon as the car exited a corner, it would leap ahead of my car. Although one of my friends also had the same 3.5C battery and reckons it is more like 2.5-3C.
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Sep 15, 2011 04:37
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Losi out with a 1:5 4x4 SCT. My wallet is crying.
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Sep 16, 2011 06:36
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I want a 1/5 so bad... but I'm also eyeing the hell out of that new 1:14 scale version of the 8ight... It looks like it'd be awesome to practice around the yard with.
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Sep 16, 2011 08:51
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I have only owned basic radio shack type electric RC cars when I was a kid and for the past 5-6 years I have wanted a Nitro truck. Just recently have been looking at gas cars so I am eying the 1/5 HPI Baja 5SC SS kit. It looks like a lot of fun to build and the whole thing just looks like a giant beast. Here is what I want to order: HPI Baja 5SC SS Kit 1/5 Gas Truck Futaba 3PMX 2.4Ghz MX SS Radio/Receiver Kit Team FastEddy Hinge Pin Shims - Thick 1mm Team FastEddy Hinge Pin Shims - Medium .5mm Team FastEddy Hinge Pin Shims - Thin .2mm Team FastEddy HD Pipe Clamp for HPI SS Pipe TeamFastEddy Complete Professional Series Bearing Upgrade Kit for HPI Baja 5B/5T/5SC Team FastEddy Pro Series Shim Kit Team FastEddy High Heat Thread Locker 2ml RED (Top Strength) Team FastEddy Steering Post Shim Kit for HPI Baja 5B/5T Hitec HS-5645MG Digital Throttle Servo w/ Metal Gears DDM "Black Magic" 6v Ni-MH 5000mAh Hump Receiver Battery Pack for HPI Baja 5B/5T DDM Team FastEddy Axle/Transmission Grease Oynx 210 Battery Charger All that plus a few other odds and ends will reach a bit over $1500 at Daves Discount Motors plus a few other shops. Do I really need those shims? Almost all the HPI forums swear by them. At $7 a bag its quite the overpriced item. Same with the pro bearings at $70, that's steep but I have been brainwashed into thinking its absolutely necessary. Plus it is so much easier to install the shims and bearings now while its being built instead of going back and doing it later. Money could be used elsewere but I can justify it... somewhat. It just seems a bit excessive to spend so much on a glorified toy. That being said, I have never wanted anything more. Any tips or advice for this complete RC noob?
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Sep 17, 2011 08:26
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