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Ended up buying the $50 one. Says 230 ft/lb. I hope so.
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Sep 16, 2011 23:27
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revmoo posted:Ended up buying the $50 one. Says 230 ft/lb. I hope so. I have one. Its not great, but not terrible either. Wear ear plugs though if you are in an enclosed area.
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Sep 17, 2011 05:25
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revmoo posted:I'm probably going to be picking up an electric impact wrench this weekend. Is the $50 harbor freight one w/ 230 lb/ft a good one? That's the one I have and it's great for removing lug nuts and other easily accessible fasteners. Oh and it's loud as poo poo like that other guy said.
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Sep 17, 2011 05:35
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revmoo posted:I'm probably going to be picking up an electric impact wrench this weekend. Is the $50 harbor freight one w/ 230 lb/ft a good one? You're talking about the corded one, right? I have it, it rules. Bought it to replace my exhaust and it's paid for itself a hundred times. The tradeoff is it's huge.
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Sep 17, 2011 14:37
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Lowclock posted:Does anyone know if Harbor Freight's 2.5CFM vacuum pump should sound like there's a drat ball-bearing or something bouncing around inside of it? I used one today to pull a vacuum and refill my car, and it sounded like a tiny diesel or something. I have the same vacuum pump and yes, that's just how they sound. It works great anyhow, just a bit noisy.
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Sep 17, 2011 17:00
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Splizwarf posted:You're talking about the corded one, right? I have it, it rules. Bought it to replace my exhaust and it's paid for itself a hundred times. The tradeoff is it's huge. Yeah the red and silver one. I'm taking it back. This thing blows. It couldn't even break loose lug nuts that I had personally tightened with a star bar. I used it to crank the lugs back on and then busted out the torque wrench, and I was still getting rotation at 75 lb/ft. Oh and you guys weren't kidding about the noise. You seriously risk hearing damage just using it outside in a driveway.
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Sep 17, 2011 22:30
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revmoo posted:Yeah the red and silver one. Mine rips off lug nuts no problem. Maybe you got a dud?
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Sep 18, 2011 00:41
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wav3form posted:Mine rips off lug nuts no problem. Maybe you got a dud? I dunno, seems like it. I think I'm going to return it and invest in a slightly better one that will last me a while. Someone want to recommend a preferred electric impact? I'm thinking I want a minimum of 300 lb/ft.
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Sep 18, 2011 00:49
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Booyah. http://www.dewalt.com/tools/fastening-impact-wrenches-dw292.aspx
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Sep 18, 2011 01:26
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I think I might buy that. EDIT: Blegh. It has pretty subpar reviews on Amazon. Also it doesn't appear to come with a case or have a speed/torque adjustment. I at least want like 1-5 or something. revmoo fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Sep 18, 2011 |
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Sep 18, 2011 01:48
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Mine's orange and gray. Yours is probably a new version. Sorry it sucked!
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Sep 18, 2011 02:22
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Need a cordless drill to use around the house. Thinking about this DeWalt. http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DC720KA-Cordless-18-Volt-Compact/dp/B000X1TYO4/ref=pd_cp_hi_pw_3 Suggestions?
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Sep 18, 2011 14:42
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Lord Gaga posted:Need a cordless drill to use around the house.
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Sep 18, 2011 14:52
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Lord Gaga posted:Need a cordless drill to use around the house. Dewalts are sturdy and have a nice weighty feel to them. They're built tough enough to be tossed around (literally) on construction sites and in shops. However, IMO they are not worth the premium over comparable units from Craftsman. The drill you linked above is $150. I've had a craftsman 18v combo kit for over four years and it's still working great. I bought it for $100..here's the updated model: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00911404000P The ergonomics aren't the greatest on the radial saw, but the drill is rock solid with tons of power, and the batteries hold up well.
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Sep 18, 2011 14:58
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I already have a Milwaukee recip saw and a ~1HP band saw for doing bigger faster lumber. How cheap can I go? Harbor freight cheap? I did not have good experiences with their "18v kit"
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Sep 18, 2011 15:10
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Lord Gaga posted:I already have a Milwaukee recip saw and a ~1HP band saw for doing bigger faster lumber. I got a 14.4v Dewalt with a case, two batteries and a charger at Ace for $80 last week. Home Depot had the same kit for about $100 as an endcap special. Amazon shows it as discontinued, so it might be worth looking around.
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Sep 18, 2011 15:40
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Actually mine is the orange and grey one and it has worked well for me too.... maybe the new red one does suck or you got a dud. I have been pretty pleased with my Bosch tools. I know its a premium price, but my cordless 18v drill (hammer action as well) can seriously trump corded tools with even 1/2 of a charge.
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Sep 18, 2011 21:43
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I dunno. I actually used it a little bit this morning and it seemed to be torquing more, maybe it just needed to break in. I returned it anyways because I want something with more features. I want a carrying case and adjustable torque output. Also something that locks the sockets in is important.
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Sep 18, 2011 22:15
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Mine came in a case too for that price, and has a socket retention ball. Sounds like the new one sucks all around. Sorry! v v
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Sep 19, 2011 14:38
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Buddy needs to drop the tranny and transfer case on his bronco. Any suggestions on the cheapest tool table or tranny jack or motorcycle jack that'll do the job? Harbor freight makes a table hack that seems like it might suffice: http://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-capacity-hydraulic-lift-table-94822.html best part about that is it's just barely small enough to get up under the trans and the lift on it is just barely tall enough to reach it. Yes, his bronco has some terrible 8" lift kit (blocks) and super swamper tires. I can sit straight up under it and still have spare headroom.
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Sep 19, 2011 14:53
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Found this bad boy while dumpster diving Campbell Hausfeld Cast Iron Series VS401400AJ 11 Gallon 5.5 @ 40psi 4.6 @ 90psi 125 psi max No belt guard or handle, drain cock needs to be replaced and there's water sloshing around. It turns on and runs though, might need a new regulator at worst. Worth keeping to run an impact or air ratchet?
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Sep 19, 2011 20:28
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edit: scratch that. Look at this impact wrench: http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-9072-20-2-Inch-Impact-Wrench/dp/B0000647GA/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1316556191&sr=1-2 I think this is the one. Any opinions? revmoo fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Sep 20, 2011 |
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Sep 20, 2011 23:02
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I actually love my harbor freight 3 ton hydro jack... http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/floor-jacks/rapid-pump-3-ton-heavy-duty-floor-jack-68048.html I usually shy away from HF tools, but it was well worth it, I've dragged that sucker through junkyards, left it bouncing around in the back of a pickup for an entire winter, and generally treated it like poo poo and it just keeps trucking. It even lifted one end of the front axle of my 5-ton military surplus cargo truck to change a tire - though it did make some unpleasant sounds. My rule on HF: if it's a precision tool (sockets, wrenches) no way. If it's electronic, no way. If it's a brute force type of tool (big hammers for bashing poo poo with, jackstands, engine hoists, maybe a really big impact gun, etc) I'll get it with the extra warranty. My HF engine hoist has put up with my stupidity for several years now too, and I have done some really stupid stuff to it, like hanging about a thousand pounds of drivetrain off the end of it fully extended (1/4 ton rating) and swinging it around / bouncing up and down trying to get something lined up. It didn't even come close to breaking.
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Sep 21, 2011 00:03
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kastein posted:I actually love my harbor freight 3 ton hydro jack... http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/floor-jacks/rapid-pump-3-ton-heavy-duty-floor-jack-68048.html I have only owned them for a year but my Harborfreight sockets and box wrenches have been great. Not a single broken one even using 3/8 sockets with an adapter on their big rear end 1/2 inch breaker bar. gently caress their ratchet handles though. I bought a Proto handle cheap on ebay and I'm never going back.
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Sep 21, 2011 02:46
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8th-samurai posted:I have only owned them for a year but my Harborfreight sockets and box wrenches have been great. Not a single broken one even using 3/8 sockets with an adapter on their big rear end 1/2 inch breaker bar. I have enough problems rounding off bolts (especially with smaller sizes <9/16" or so) without using cheap sockets and wrenches... so I went for good quality on those. A friend of mine broke his HF breaker bar, I told him it'd happen... even a Husky from HD is better than those, I've abused the poo poo out of mine and never once broken it.
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Sep 21, 2011 18:00
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1/2" breaker bar? 3/4" drive is where the action is.
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Sep 22, 2011 05:33
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kastein posted:I have enough problems rounding off bolts (especially with smaller sizes <9/16" or so) without using cheap sockets and wrenches... so I went for good quality on those. A friend of mine broke his HF breaker bar, I told him it'd happen... even a Husky from HD is better than those, I've abused the poo poo out of mine and never once broken it. All of my HF sockets are six points and fit just fine. I recommend you start using penetrating oil. Spray those bolts with PB blaster like they owe you money.
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Sep 22, 2011 05:58
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8th-samurai posted:All of my HF sockets are six points and fit just fine. I recommend you start using penetrating oil. Spray those bolts with PB blaster like they owe you money. oh, I do... the problem is when the heads are rusty and easy to round off because of it. A socket that's even slightly off size makes it worse. I usually hammer on the next size down (or the next size down in the other set if it falls between sizes.) I've put five foot cheater pipes on my 1/2" Husky breaker bar and it didn't break. The 1/2" drive extension did though.
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Sep 22, 2011 13:24
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And this is how you do an oil change: I'm up to 3 MGs now, and have always had trouble using a traditional "cherry picker" to pull engines from them. The legs are just too wide to slide in from the front, and the arm is never long enough to pull from the center if i roll in diagonal. $80 and some HF coupons later, chain hoist and beam trolley. Added bonus, I don't have to find a place to stick a big hoist! (Load leveler is coming next round of 20% coupons) I totally rode this engine across the garage.
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Sep 24, 2011 06:14
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whoa whoa whoa. 80 DOLLARS? I know where I am going tomorrow after I get back from wheeling.
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Sep 24, 2011 06:18
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kastein posted:whoa whoa whoa. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-push-trolley-97392.html $60-20%, $48 http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-chain-hoist-996.html $44-20%, $35 About $83 with a friend to use a second coupon.
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Sep 24, 2011 06:58
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I'm looking for recommendations for a ball joint press, and also a tool to help separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle. Last time I used a 3-jaw puller I had laying around and it didn't quite work out. Should I just get a pickle fork, or is there some other tool I don't know about? To do a wheel bearing or even just the brake rotor on the front you have to take the entire steering knuckle off. I only need to replace one ball joint but while I have everything off that side I might as well do the rest of them, since they are looking worse for wear.
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Sep 28, 2011 17:04
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Any suggestions for a cordless impact? I used a snap on one at a shop once and it was awesome, but I probably don't even want to know how expensive. It was great for lug nuts and such, which would be nice for track days and the like. Any cheaper alternatives?
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Sep 28, 2011 21:57
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DreamOn13 posted:Any suggestions for a cordless impact? I used a snap on one at a shop once and it was awesome, but I probably don't even want to know how expensive. It was great for lug nuts and such, which would be nice for track days and the like. Any cheaper alternatives? makita!!!
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Sep 28, 2011 22:16
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Carta posted:I'm looking for recommendations for a ball joint press, and also a tool to help separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle. Last time I used a 3-jaw puller I had laying around and it didn't quite work out. Should I just get a pickle fork, or is there some other tool I don't know about? what kind of vehicle? For my jeeps I've had decent luck with a horrible freight balljoint tool, just make sure you get the cup adapter set that fits your balljoints. It won't handle you just going full retard on it with an impact or cranking on it with a breaker bar, but if you just ease down on the press with a box wrench till it's as tight as you can get it by hand and then whack the side of the steering knuckle with a mini sledge the balljoint should pop out little by little. It's nice to be able to do a balljoint removal without any power tools or ever putting your beer down.
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Sep 28, 2011 22:25
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93 Honda accord. I was able to separate them easily last time with a screwdriver and hammer, but ripped a boot in the process. I was thinking I could potentially do new bushings while I was at it with the ball joint press as well. I'm trying to keep this car on the road as long as possible, and doing all my own work has paid off greatly, plus the tools I end up buying I can use on my wife's car.
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Sep 28, 2011 22:51
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Carta posted:I'm looking for recommendations for a ball joint press, and also a tool to help separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle. Last time I used a 3-jaw puller I had laying around and it didn't quite work out. Should I just get a pickle fork, or is there some other tool I don't know about? kastein touched on the mini sledge method and I've never needed anything else but that to pop out tie rod ends and ball joints. Just give the knuckle some solid whacks right next to where the ball joint is and it should pop out afterwards with a little nudge on the threaded end.
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Sep 29, 2011 02:15
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I have had really good luck with pickle forks and PB blaster. Very satisfying to beat the fork as hard as I possibly can. To press in ball joints, the kit AZ rents is pretty nice.
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Sep 29, 2011 02:24
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Skyssx posted:I have had really good luck with pickle forks and PB blaster. Very satisfying to beat the fork as hard as I possibly can. To press in ball joints, the kit AZ rents is pretty nice. I hate using pickle forks because it tears up the boot and can mar the stud/ball, but they are good for stress relief. If I want to reuse the part, like I said before, mini sledge to the side of the knuckle right where the taper goes through it. It will pop right out after a few whacks with zero damage to anything. If I can't get a mini sledge in the right spot (for example, the tie rod end that goes through the drag link on an XJ/MJ/TJ/ZJ) I'll use either a TRE puller or a pitman arm puller and put as much pressure as I can on it via the stud end, then whack the head of the puller shaft with something. Acts just like the mini sledge but you start with a couple hundred pounds force from the screw pressure so it requires a lot less of a swing to get the same kind of peak force applied. kastein fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Sep 29, 2011 |
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Sep 29, 2011 05:23
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I put the nut back on level with the threads and tap it with a rubber mallet. Had no problems doing it with the factory tie rod ends on a 22 year old car, I imagine rusty might be less easy.
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Sep 29, 2011 18:25
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