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malal posted:sorry dude, its toast. Yeah, I've been looking into this. I found a welding supply store that's on the way home, they should be able to hook me up with a tank of co2 and regulator
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Sep 26, 2011 22:44
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ooh also forgot to post these forever ago. Close to being done, but still need to (obviously) finish up a few touches on some Warmachine minis. (work and moving to Texas kinda got in the way of painting...)   
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Sep 26, 2011 23:13
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So I painted some Flames of War infantry. How can I base them without getting putty/paint/sand/flock all over my riflemen? 
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Sep 27, 2011 01:39
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Buy the FoW textured bases that have holes in them for the men.
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Sep 27, 2011 01:43
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I made a "I am back" post on the 40k thread, and now I will do it here. I got my all terminators Chaos (count as GK) army over here minus a few things and can finally start on it again! I did up a test termy, what do you think of it so far?   I did a small amount of highlighting, though the harsh lights bloom some of those highlights out. I am really bad about choosing where to do highlights, so it kinda has to be light or I will do every edge. I tried to do a "glowing" eye effect, might have over done it. I am going to put a good amount of dead grass with a little green grass around. The green should do nice to complement all the pink/purple. Do you think the snow should be heavier? I like the slushy look but I can get that with more snow still. The snow sparkles like water crystals  Ninja edit: *I started to type how the blue tint in the snow dried into a cloudy white but I might as well just do more pics... This time with a good camera too*       I added more snow, even put some gloss varnish on his boots and around some snow piles to make them look wet. (I think I found my "weathering" challenge  )The green grass is still at my parents' house. Sucks cuz I really want to see what the green would do for the mini.
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Sep 27, 2011 02:02
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will blow your mind.
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That's boss as gently caress.
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Sep 27, 2011 02:07
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WhiteOutMouse posted:I tried to do a "glowing" eye effect, might have over done it. You probably did, but it's cool; neon blue eyeliner is Slaaneshi as gently caress.
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Sep 27, 2011 02:42
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Creepy Goat posted:Help me with my painting Goons! Your idea of the scheme (black with dark blue and silver/gold trim) isn't a bad one: I'm trying to work out a pretty similar scheme at the moment. Now, you can keep it dark, but right now your problem is contrast. To get a better idea of what I'm talking about, take any photo through a photo editing program and turn down the contrast, and everything just gets pulled way down to dark. To fix this sort of problem--and you can fix it--you just have to add some contrast: consider using a lighter shade of blue: not much lighter, mind you, but rich enough to be more bold than the navy blue you have going on right now. Your blacks could use some highlights with gray as well: black is one of those colors that can be really difficult to highlight, and many people find it easier to paint a dark gray instead and wash it black afterwards. Hope this helps!
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Sep 27, 2011 03:12
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That snow looks perfect, mouse. How'd you do it?
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Sep 27, 2011 03:15
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As a native Floridian I have only been far north as Alabama. So it is cool to know that it looks authentic  .It was super easy too. Gloss varnish mixed with "Wooland scenincs: Soft Flake Snow SN140" (*I am sure other snow flocks work too) That's it. It looked blueish when I put it on but that was because of the vanish, once it dries you get the super slushy looking snow.
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Sep 27, 2011 03:21
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Applying a dark blue glaze to those eyes would make them look a little less harsh if you're worried about the highlight being too harsh.
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Sep 27, 2011 03:22
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To do the glowing eye thing a bit more naturally you should mix some of the armor colour into the blue light that's on the armor, but leave the blue inside the eye pure. Here is an example: 
TastyAvocado fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Sep 27, 2011 |
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Sep 27, 2011 03:38
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Terrain imagespam itt. More stuff for the LGS. Currently not fully assembled since the owner is deciding what he want to do with it.        
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Sep 27, 2011 03:50
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Amazing terrain pieces, I'd love to get some ruined city stuff done with that level of painting. How expensive is it to get into airbrushing, and how difficult is it if I don't have any sort of artistic background? Seems like people get a much better paint job out of it, and I've got the cash to throw at the equipment. For someone like me who struggles to get a semi-good looking model by hand, would I be able to do airbrushing? Maybe do you fellas have any guides or anything you know of you could link? I'm considering stripping a lot of my stuff to get it done right. Here's an example of my stuff, critique and insult away please:  Bad cell phone picture, but you get the jist.
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Sep 27, 2011 04:22
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I don't see irises inside those eyes. 
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Sep 27, 2011 05:08
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It's because my hands are too shaky to get the black in there without turning the eye into a big blob of black, consistently with each attempt 
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Sep 27, 2011 05:27
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^^^^^ Micron Pens: available at most art stores, they have very fine tips and you can easily draw them in. Give a layer of matte varnish first though to seal your paint work. Jcam posted:Amazing terrain pieces, I'd love to get some ruined city stuff done with that level of painting. Looks okay to me: keep at it with the painting and your brushwork will undoubtedly improve. If you want to try getting into the airbrush world, here's some advice based on the experience I've garnered from using mine. Undoubtedly, your mileage may vary. 1) Don't Skimp on the Airbrush: Dual-action, internal mix, gravity fed. Get all three of these things on a brush with a good reputation behind it (Paasche, Iwata seem to be the staple brands). I'm not saying buy brand-name, just get some reviews of it and see how it goes. Don't settle for a cheaper brush that is missing even one of these features. You won't regret it. 2) Compressors with Regulators: Get one right from the get-go. Either with a tank with a variable output or a compressor that simply has the ability to regulate, you'll want one. A lot of fine detail is easier at 3 to 4 PSI while basecoating is better done at 15 to 20, depending on preference, sometimes higher if the area is large. Generally, you won't need to go above 30 PSI. 3) Paint: Vallejo thankfully takes the guesswork out of mixing airbrush paint with their Model Air line. Having said that, there are times when you need or want to mix your own. Every paint manufacturer is different, and every batch of paint is different from the same manufacturer, so mixing is a play-by-ear affair. Some require more, others less to work properly. For spraying water-based acrylics (Vallejo, Games Workshop, P3, Reaper, etc.), use ordinary blue Windex to thin your paints. The blue pigment won't tint your color, so don't worry about that. 4) Cleaning Station & Tools: A couple of companies sell little jars with a hole in the top to clean your airbrush. This is a really easy way to get your brush clean between color changes. It's not particularly needed, but it's helpful. However, you will need a set of airbrush cleaning tools (they look like pipe-cleaners on a keyring typically). Learn how to break down your airbrush, learn how the parts fit together, learn how to assemble it again; Charleton Heston won't be impressed if you can do it in under a minute, so take your time. 5) Safety: Find a respirator rated for painting (as opposed to haz-mat or bio-hazard, but those will work too if you already have one). You will have many models to paint, but there's only one of you: protect your lungs. I don't care if you smoke and feel it's a lost cause, still wear one. Also, spray in a well-ventilated area, preferably in an area with an exhaust that goes directly outside. 6) Technique: This will be the hardest part of all. Working with an airbrush has advantages, but it has a relatively steep learning curve, if only for the fact that no other tool really comes close to how an airbrush works. Basecoating is pretty easy, so when you finish your guys, take some time to practice. Grab some cardboard and doodle, experimenting with different PSIs, strokes and distances. In short time, you'll learn how your airbrush behaves. Watching videos helps a ton, but only the videos where you can actually see the guy using the brush, and not simply the results. I'm sure other people have insight and input as well, but I hope this helps. And remember: an airbrush is simply another tool. Don't let your paintbrush work suffer and keep at it.
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Sep 27, 2011 05:35
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Wow, thanks for the helpful response. It's something I'm going to look into, if only just for knowledge or to add another tool I can use for painting. I need to learn how to properly thin my paints and not just glob on thick coats (really just need to not be lazy I think), as the brush-stroke patterns really become apparent close up. I've been using washes as a crutch, and that became glaringly obvious when I tried to liberally apply Asurmen Blue to an entire Razorback and then woke the hell up. Common opinion is that your paint should be slighter thicker than the consistency of milk, or something like that, right? I've got five Long Fangs and ten Grey Hunters to work on to get the technique and color scheme down properly, and have been looking up a myriad of different guides/layering suggestions to keep in mind during the process.
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Sep 27, 2011 05:44
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Paint in general should be thinned to about milk consistency, yes, but every paint will be different. Some are a little thicker, others thinner. With practice, you'll be able to tell if your paint is too thick by how it feels on your brush, and beyond that just by how it looks.
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Sep 27, 2011 06:48
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Creepy Goat posted:Help me with my painting Goons! The colors are fine, you just need to do edge highlighting on the black and blue quite a bit.
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Sep 27, 2011 08:19
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Hey WhiteOutMouse, that is the best snow I've ever seen. That's just what it looks like here in Norway come early spring. It's boss as all hell. It looks really authentic. You sir, are a fantastic person.
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Sep 27, 2011 08:24
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I managed to get my wasteland bases into a state I like. I added abit more to the colour palette and some tufts.   I also made my first attempt at making my own snow and depositing it on bases. I think next time I should actually look at how snow really settles rather than going - "I can work this out!"   I'm gonna try making it with scenics snow rather than bicarbonate later to see how it compares, but I'm surprised by how good the bicarbonate works. Also if you're going to make snow use paint not ink to colour it - I tried white ink first time round and I just got a horrible consistency I couldn't fix.
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Sep 27, 2011 11:54
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Okay took the advice, washed over the dark blue areas with a 1:1:1 Necron Abyss, Enchanted Blue, Water mix and highlighted the black with a 1:1 Charadon Granite/Water. Looks much better now under natural light, not sure what to highlight the blue with as it always comes out too bright. Still got a lot of other areas to finish but I think I'll give the blue a break for now and get started on the rest. Thursday is getting closer and my dreads havn't even arrived yet    e; ah you can see some of my attempted blue highlights on the Veteran's robes, doesn't look too bad I guess. Lethemonster posted:I managed to get my wasteland bases into a state I like. I added abit more to the colour palette and some tufts. These are rad as hell, looking to do something bigger but similar for my Librarian dread but I doubt it'll look this good. Oh and another WIP Of Reclusiarch. Wish I could paint him better, I also had to cut him off his base because he was warping again. 
Creepy Goat fucked around with this message at 13:56 on Sep 27, 2011 |
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Sep 27, 2011 13:38
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Creepy Goat posted:These are rad as hell, looking to do something bigger but similar for my Librarian dread but I doubt it'll look this good. I have a spare dreadbase if you want me to have a go at making one for you. I'm making hundreds of bases atm for the sake of it with no models to go on them.
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Sep 27, 2011 14:30
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TastyAvocado posted:To do the glowing eye thing a bit more naturally... Unless you guys think the eyeliner is a cooler effect  I also am going to try and highlight the black. I am scared. Any other thoughts? In person I think my base needs less yellow and more brown. Thought I am going to have to wait till I get my grass before I can really say...
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Sep 27, 2011 14:49
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Lethemonster posted:I have a spare dreadbase if you want me to have a go at making one for you. I'm making hundreds of bases atm for the sake of it with no models to go on them. This sounds very interesting, I will have to wait for my Lib to be assembled as I sort of want him stepping up on a rock, kind of like the bottom left base in the pic you posted. How much would such a thing cost? I can't see myself buying bases for all of my guys but for special units that I've spent a lot of time on I would definitely like that finishing touch.
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Sep 27, 2011 19:35
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Sup paintin' budz?           I still need to matte coat these guys to make them not goofy, but not bad for a stressful month.
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Sep 27, 2011 20:09
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Creepy Goat posted:This sounds very interesting, I will have to wait for my Lib to be assembled as I sort of want him stepping up on a rock, kind of like the bottom left base in the pic you posted. To make? I couldn't say - I've amassed a huge collection of materials to make with and just pick things out of my boxes when I build. If you meant buying I would make you them for free, would be nice to get some people to use the bases and tell me how they fare actually being used. Make sure they are sturdy enough etc.
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Sep 27, 2011 20:23
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!amicable posted:Sup paintin' budz? This guy. Is cool as gently caress.
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Sep 27, 2011 20:59
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Sole.Sushi posted:1) Don't Skimp on the Airbrush: Dual-action, internal mix, gravity fed. Get all three of these things on a brush with a good reputation behind it (Paasche, Iwata seem to be the staple brands). I'm not saying buy brand-name, just get some reviews of it and see how it goes. Don't settle for a cheaper brush that is missing even one of these features. You won't regret it. You can also find very affordable OEM Iwata airbrushes on the market that are perfectly serviceable. They cost about 1/8th the price of a branded brush, are built exactly the same and any deficiencies in the handling probably won't be noticed by a beginner. If you go for a named brand off the bat, you'll pay more for a single action, external feed model, but if you get a knock-off, you can obtain a fully-featured one for the same price. If you've figured that airbrushing is "it" for you then you can splurge on the proper item, but while you're still learning, better to accidentally kink the needle or melt all the o-rings in a 15 quid airbrush than a 150 quid one. Sole.Sushi posted:6) Technique: This will be the hardest part of all. Working with an airbrush has advantages, but it has a relatively steep learning curve, if only for the fact that no other tool really comes close to how an airbrush works. Basecoating is pretty easy, so when you finish your guys, take some time to practice. Grab some cardboard and doodle, experimenting with different PSIs, strokes and distances. In short time, you'll learn how your airbrush behaves. Watching videos helps a ton, but only the videos where you can actually see the guy using the brush, and not simply the results. I've found that airbrushing really *demands* patience. Every time I've tried to rush with the airbrush, it's ended in tears. People always say 'spray in thin coats' when it comes to primer, but generally you can still blast your models and they will turn out servicable in the end. Do that with an airbrush and you'll have liquid pooling everywhere, dripping off the model, and not really covering anything at all. Airbrushing and instant/delayed/very much delayed gratification do not mix at all. With regards to air supply, an alternative to compressors are CO2 cylinders, which are apparently cheaper, silent and just as economical (compared to canned air).
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Sep 27, 2011 21:02
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Z the IVth posted:You can also find very affordable OEM Iwata airbrushes on the market that are perfectly serviceable. They cost about 1/8th the price of a branded brush, are built exactly the same and any deficiencies in the handling probably won't be noticed by a beginner. If you go for a named brand off the bat, you'll pay more for a single action, external feed model, but if you get a knock-off, you can obtain a fully-featured one for the same price. If you've figured that airbrushing is "it" for you then you can splurge on the proper item, but while you're still learning, better to accidentally kink the needle or melt all the o-rings in a 15 quid airbrush than a 150 quid one. This is in fact great advice: look for deals, and like I said, you don't need a name-brand airbrush, just something with those three magic components that won't start leaking around the seam or fall apart like some other hand-flamer shaped airbrushes. Which brings me to a point I forgot: never buy the GW airbrush. Ever. Don't even think about buying it. I know you're thinking about it right now, and you should feel ashamed.
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Sep 27, 2011 21:26
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Sole.Sushi posted:This is in fact great advice: look for deals, and like I said, you don't need a name-brand airbrush, just something with those three magic components that won't start leaking around the seam or fall apart like some other hand-flamer shaped airbrushes. Which brings me to a point I forgot: never buy the GW airbrush. Ever. Don't even think about buying it. I know you're thinking about it right now, and you should feel ashamed. I bought my OEM Iwata brush for 2/3rds the price of the GW brush. It's double action, internal mix, though I went for a side-mounted pot rather than a gravity feed. Sushi, what's the advantages of the gravity feed over the side-mounted ones? Do you end up having to hold the brush forever or the paint will fall out?
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Sep 27, 2011 21:35
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Lethemonster posted:To make? I couldn't say - I've amassed a huge collection of materials to make with and just pick things out of my boxes when I build. If you meant buying I would make you them for free, would be nice to get some people to use the bases and tell me how they fare actually being used. Make sure they are sturdy enough etc. Well I thought if they take a lot of time to make then I should give you something for it, I would be happy to test it out for you though and if I use it and it looks as good as the pictures I will happily compensate you for it!
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Sep 27, 2011 21:38
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Creepy Goat posted:Well I thought if they take a lot of time to make then I should give you something for it, I would be happy to test it out for you though and if I use it and it looks as good as the pictures I will happily compensate you for it! When you've got your dread into a set pose send me a photo and I'll knock something out. Eh, if you want you can do something for postage but I have so much fun making these things I'd be doing it anyway. At least someone will use it! I was looking for a varnish I could spray on, but can't find anything like dullcote in stores. Halfords sell an acrylic based lacquer varnish - would this be any good? Can it be stripped if I want to repaint them?
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Sep 27, 2011 21:46
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Oath cross-post time:        For October I've got another tactical squad and another rhino!
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Sep 28, 2011 02:06
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I've just given my Blood Bowl team a bath in Dettol and a scrub, and they are basically clean now. There's just a few tiny bits of residue in the crevices etc. and I tried picking them out with a toothpick but they are being stubborn. Is this going to be ok when I prime and paint them again, or do I need to put them back in the Dettol and be a bit more determined with the toothpick?
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Sep 28, 2011 02:17
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Z the IVth posted:Sushi, what's the advantages of the gravity feed over the side-mounted ones? Do you end up having to hold the brush forever or the paint will fall out? Well, mostly it's because siphon-fed airbrushes increase your chances of splatter, air-bubbles and sputtering in general. Plus, they have a nasty habit of falling out of the brush on some models. Gravity fed are nice in that they are open pots that you can mix colors in straight away. Most of them come with lids, which helps. Additionally, you rarely want to fill the pot so much that tilting the brush will cause spills, so as long as you don't turn it upside-down, you'll be fine. I imagine your hopper on the side is also a gravity-fed brush, all things considered: if it simply drains down into the chamber, it's gravity-fed, no matter if the hopper is on top, the side or what-have-you. Larger airbrushes (like for autos and the like) are generally gravity-fed as well, and feature screw-top lids so that the artist can turn the thing at whatever angle they want. I imagine that some smaller airbrushes have similar features, if you're keen on that. EDIT: My Paasche came with a clip that I can set my airbrush down without worrying about spills. The Iwata cleaning station I have has a similar setup.
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Sep 28, 2011 03:19
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ineptmule posted:I've just given my Blood Bowl team a bath in Dettol and a scrub, and they are basically clean now. There's just a few tiny bits of residue in the crevices etc. and I tried picking them out with a toothpick but they are being stubborn. Is this going to be ok when I prime and paint them again, or do I need to put them back in the Dettol and be a bit more determined with the toothpick? Better safe than sorry. Or prime one and see while the rest take another dip.
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Sep 28, 2011 09:53
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Liquid green stuff is being released this weekend. Wtf is that?
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Sep 28, 2011 21:00
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The only thing that I can think of is that GW is releasing some sort of gel to fill gaps and cracks, which is primarily what I think they pitch Greenstuff for. So it will probably be a repackaged version of something everyone has already had for years at a 300% markup to gouge kids and new players.
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Sep 28, 2011 21:02
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