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This is why the kits from Dragon and such with turned aluminum barrels are so superior. I can't believe they would even make something like that in two pieces.
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Aug 17, 2011 14:13
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| # ? Apr 19, 2024 01:35 |
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If Dragon ever sorted out their instruction problems then their Premium Kits would be best on the market. I generally either buy Tamiya and then upgrade with photo etched parts and turned barrels or go the Dragon route as you say.
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Aug 21, 2011 16:23
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big_g posted:If Dragon ever sorted out their instruction problems then their Premium Kits would be best on the market. I kind of only bought tamiya because its the only brand i recognise from their rc cars and stuff. what other brands are good and not too overly complicated for someone who has only made a few models?
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Aug 24, 2011 08:04
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warcake posted:I kind of only bought tamiya because its the only brand i recognise from their rc cars and stuff. what other brands are good and not too overly complicated for someone who has only made a few models? I wasn't impressed with the tamiya Tiger I did a few years ago. 'Course, that led to the discovery that I really don't like building tanks all that much, too. Just finished a couple of 1/48 planes, Hasegawa's type 52 zero 'tsukuba flying group', and a Hobby Boss F4F4 Wildcat. The wildcat was really well-detailed (I was really impressed with the nice, deep panel lines, and the five million little rivet divots) and went together without too much fuss. Only problem was the landing gear, but I think that'd be fiddly on any wildcat model. The hasegawa zero was beautiful. No gaps at all to fill, and everything fit together beautifully. Panel lines were easy to accidentally erase with sanding if care wasn't taken, but otherwise I was really, really impressed. Of course, my prior experience with airplane models was all revell-monogram stuff, so I guess that's no surprise. I'd heartily recommend either kit to anyone interested in one of those two planes. Currently working on a minicraft P-38J, and that's a whole different experience. It's not a *bad* kit, but there's a lot of filling to be done and plenty of fitment issues, which is frustrating after working with two really nice kits. Other than being a pain in the rear end to put together, it's a nice looking plane, so maybe I just got a bad kit, or the mold's ancient or something. warcake - for scratches, paint a black blotch in the desired shape of your scratch, then fill it in with your chosen metallic, leaving just a tiny bit of black around the edge. For soot, at least with acrylics, I thin my paint way, way down, with a 2:1 brown:black mix, probably 10:1 water:paint. Then, slowly build up your soot by stippling it on, so you get a nice fade effect. Takes a while, but looks really nice when you get it done. Rust, I just drybrush on, usually with delta ceramcoat acrylic colors "red iron oxide" and "brown iron oxide" (put the brown down first, then lightly add the red for a highlight). If you want a built-up about to fall apart rusting look, glue a bit of railroad flocking on prior to drybrushing to give it some texture (this also works for making things muddy).
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Aug 24, 2011 09:17
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warcake posted:I kind of only bought tamiya because its the only brand i recognise from their rc cars and stuff. what other brands are good and not too overly complicated for someone who has only made a few models? Tamiya is an awesome make don't worry about that, probably the majority of mine are Tamiya to be fair. Two kits that are known as good for starters are: 1. Tamiya 1/35 Cromwell Mk.IV Cruiser Tank Mk.III,A27M 2. Tamiya 1/35 German Tiger I Early Production These aren't dumbed down at all and give excellent finished results but are a little easier on the assembly side. I've done both myself when I was starting out at 1/35 (In fact the Tiger was the first ever.)    Also for weathering you need to buy some MIG pigments...end of, drybrushing alone does not cut it.
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Aug 24, 2011 22:26
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Tamiya is hit or miss in my experience. Their newer kits are generally very good but some of the older ones that haven't been updated are honestly crap. Then again, I'm talking about aircraft here because that's what I do. It's a shame Hasegawa doesn't do armor (except for MK), because in my opinion they have the best detailing and engineering on the market.
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Aug 26, 2011 17:41
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As someone who likes the 1/72 scale in armor I'm going to try some of Hasegawa's kits soon. I'm building my first dragon kit (Challenger 2 Iraq) right now; aside from a few mistakes (like leaving out the headlights) it's quite impressive. It's quite a change from the WW2 stuff I've built so far.
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Aug 27, 2011 00:36
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Nebakenezzer posted:As someone who likes the 1/72 scale in armor I'm going to try some of Hasegawa's kits soon. I'm building my first dragon kit (Challenger 2 Iraq) right now; aside from a few mistakes (like leaving out the headlights) it's quite impressive. It's quite a change from the WW2 stuff I've built so far. Hasegawa makes absolutely fantastic 1/72 airplanes. So, you could get something from the same time period as one of your armor pieces and set it down next to it, since it would be in the same scale! Maybe even make a little diorama? 
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Aug 28, 2011 14:54
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Anyone built any of the Wingnut Wings 1:32 WWI planes? I stumbled upon the webpage today and am blown away. I always loved WWI aircraft but all the kits I built years ago were complete poo poo, with warped moldings, fragile decals, loosely translated instructions in pidgin Bulgarian, etc. These sound incredible. I ordered 2 of them, so we'll see.
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Aug 29, 2011 22:27
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I can assure you that the wingnut wings kits are of amazing quality and well worth the money.
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Aug 30, 2011 01:49
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I haven't made a model in 20 years or so, but looking at the AFV Club and Dragon tanks is giving me the itch again. I'm looking at this one to get back in practice, but I don't know anything about Bronco. Does this seem like a good cheap choice to work on first? http://www.greatmodels.com/~smartcart/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=BOM35003&cartstatus=temp&custid=709045.4002
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Aug 30, 2011 07:15
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I've never heard of them, but a PanzerBefehlWagen built on the chassis of a Hotchkiss H-35? At that price? I'd take it for curiosity value alone.
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Aug 30, 2011 14:34
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I haven't heard of them either, but I'm a sucker for those crazy German obsolete tank conversions. For ten bucks, you aren't really risking much.
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Aug 30, 2011 18:36
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Really, for the good of the thread, can you afford NOT to buy it?
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Aug 30, 2011 19:26
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OK, you guys are very convincing! In the name of the thread I ordered the Befehlpanzer and a 1:72 captured T-34/76: http://www.greatmodels.com/~smartcart/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=UM0251 Oh crap I just realized I need glue  Oh well, I need to visit a hobby shop for paints anyway. Painting and aging is what I'm really looking forward to, can't wait! Thanks for the push.
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Aug 30, 2011 20:11
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My only experience with modeling is Warhammer models but I want to get into scale model ships. I've always really liked historic ships and so I picked up this model a while ago because it was cheap and it's exactly the style I like: Charles W. Morgan Historic Whaling Ship 1-110 Revell Germany Unfortunately this kit is a lot more frustrating than I was expecting, between things not matching up well at all, and the plastic being too delicate(fine pieces like the hand grips on the ships wheel broke off from handling them). And good lord is there a lot of flash! Did I pick a bad kit/brand or is it probably a fluke? I'm gonna finish assembling the kit but it'll probably end up being a forgotten practice piece. Can I get a recommendation of what kit to try next? I don't mind spending up to about a $100 bucks if it will be worth it in the end.
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Sep 4, 2011 05:43
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Epi Lepi posted:Unfortunately this kit is a lot more frustrating than I was expecting, between things not matching up well at all, and the plastic being too delicate(fine pieces like the hand grips on the ships wheel broke off from handling them). And good lord is there a lot of flash! Did I pick a bad kit/brand or is it probably a fluke? I'm gonna finish assembling the kit but it'll probably end up being a forgotten practice piece. Can I get a recommendation of what kit to try next? I don't mind spending up to about a $100 bucks if it will be worth it in the end. It sounds like a really difficult kit. Revell Germany makes a lot of great kits, so I'm guessing your whaler was a fluke  (Or possibly one of those old re-released kits.)While I can't recommend a specific kit, I'd look around for something you find interesting, then check it's age. If it's been around a *long* time, it might have quality problems. A new kit from just about anyone should be fine. e: Tamiya has a rep for having the best engineered kits out there, I'd start with them. e2: Powdered Toast Man posted:Hasegawa makes absolutely fantastic 1/72 airplanes. So, you could get something from the same time period as one of your armor pieces and set it down next to it, since it would be in the same scale! Maybe even make a little diorama? I've been lusting after Hasegawa's J35 Drakken for awhile now. Once I get through my current batch, I'm going to order it. I've been thinking about a basic Diorama for my fw200... e3!: Sprune Bros has a labor day sale on everything, till the end of today. Nebakenezzer fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Sep 5, 2011 |
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Sep 5, 2011 15:55
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Nebakenezzer posted:It sounds like a really difficult kit. Revell Germany makes a lot of great kits, so I'm guessing your whaler was a fluke Yeah I see now that there's a date on it-1982, this thing is older than I am. That explains a lot, the master molds probably have a lot of wear and tear to them, plus 80s tech designing the thing. Edit: Checked out the Tamiya site but it looks like they don't have any sailing ships models, which is what I'm looking for. Epi Lepi fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Sep 6, 2011 |
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Sep 5, 2011 20:35
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Epi Lepi posted:Yeah I see now that there's a date on it-1982, this thing is older than I am. That explains a lot, the master molds probably have a lot of wear and tear to them, plus 80s tech designing the thing. http://www.towerhobbies.com/modelships/index.html Have a gander. Not a lot of selection for plastic sailing ship kits, but there's a few, at least. (the wood ones look cool as hell but wow $$$) I find it's really helpful to browse blogs/forums/etc for reviews on kits if I can find them so as to avoid buying a pain in the rear end. Just google "[scale] [brandname] [model] review" and sort through the results, praying that you don't get nine bajillion "WE HAVE THIS KIT IN STOCK RIGHT NOW" results.
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Sep 7, 2011 02:45
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Put together a vintage Zis-3 76.2mm gun kit. It's also the first time I experimented with making a camo net out of medical gauze. I'm mostly happy with the result, but it's not as see-through as I wanted it to be. Has anyone here done this before? 
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Sep 8, 2011 04:06
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I have nothing constructive to offer but in the first pic it looks like the gun barrel is wearing a helmet too.
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Sep 8, 2011 04:28
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I remember seeing a page showing how a guy detailed a cockpit by first laying down his highlight color in either acrylic or enamel, then laying down the base color in lacquer. After the lacquer dried, he used a bit of lacquer thinner on the tip of a toothpick to remove the lacquer from the bezels and tick marks on the instrument panel which would expose the highlight color. Does anybody know what I'm talking about and have a link to a page that describes that method?
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Sep 17, 2011 13:55
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SkunkDuster posted:I remember seeing a page showing how a guy detailed a cockpit by first laying down his highlight color in either acrylic or enamel, then laying down the base color in lacquer. After the lacquer dried, he used a bit of lacquer thinner on the tip of a toothpick to remove the lacquer from the bezels and tick marks on the instrument panel which would expose the highlight color. Does anybody know what I'm talking about and have a link to a page that describes that method? Not heard of that one but it sounds like it would work. Maybe try it on a bit of spare kit, see how it goes? Anyway, this what I've been doing lately. 72nd scale from Finemolds.   
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Sep 17, 2011 16:47
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SkunkDuster posted:I remember seeing a page showing how a guy detailed a cockpit by first laying down his highlight color in either acrylic or enamel, then laying down the base color in lacquer. After the lacquer dried, he used a bit of lacquer thinner on the tip of a toothpick to remove the lacquer from the bezels and tick marks on the instrument panel which would expose the highlight color. Does anybody know what I'm talking about and have a link to a page that describes that method? Yep, it's this guy: http://www.naritafamily.com/howto/howtoindex.htm (Specifically I think it's his F-15 and Flanker builds.)
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Sep 17, 2011 16:59
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That's exactly the one I was thinking of. Good thing you linked it because I had the order of the paint rear end backwards. Thanks much!
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Sep 17, 2011 17:15
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Happy to help. I've read all of this guy's articles; even when I'm not cribbing his ideas directly, they give me ideas on new things I could try out.
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Sep 17, 2011 17:40
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The Finemolds Star Wars products really are nice. I like the stands they include with them, too.
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Sep 17, 2011 21:32
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Anyone had any experience with trupeter tank kits? Picked up a 1/35 challenger 2 a few weeks back and my god is it badly moulded, I'll post some pics when I'm back at home this afternoon, its a good thing me and my friend decided to do a fantasy diorama with it so I can cover some of the gently caress ups with damage and other things. Also does anyone have a good UK retailer for 1/35th figures, need some zombies for it, cheaper the better.
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Sep 18, 2011 15:17
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I built one of their 1/72 StuG III kits ages ago, and it was beautiful. You might have gotten a bad kit or be seeing some transit damage, or their big scale stuff could be crap.
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Sep 19, 2011 17:15
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Keket posted:Anyone had any experience with trupeter tank kits? Picked up a 1/35 challenger 2 a few weeks back and my god is it badly moulded, I'll post some pics when I'm back at home this afternoon, its a good thing me and my friend decided to do a fantasy diorama with it so I can cover some of the gently caress ups with damage and other things. I think that kit is really old, their kits have definitely improved over time.
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Sep 21, 2011 04:00
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I've been working on the Revell Charles W. Morgan plastic kit and I got up to the rigging stages and holy poo poo, how do I go about doing this?? It took me 20 minutes to do just part of the bowsprit rigging and I can't get it to stay tight and not look like poo poo, probably going to have to cut the thread and start over. Any advice?
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Sep 25, 2011 22:27
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Epi Lepi posted:I've been working on the Revell Charles W. Morgan plastic kit and I got up to the rigging stages and holy poo poo, how do I go about doing this?? It took me 20 minutes to do just part of the bowsprit rigging and I can't get it to stay tight and not look like poo poo, probably going to have to cut the thread and start over. Any advice? I'd have to see where you're at to help, but one bit I can offer is to tie a temporary thread or two across all the masts to help maintain spacing so they don't flex out of position as you rig. Such a pretty ship! http://www.tomlytle.com/Resources/SHIP_CWM.jpg
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Sep 26, 2011 08:40
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Sun Dog posted:I'd have to see where you're at to help, but one bit I can offer is to tie a temporary thread or two across all the masts to help maintain spacing so they don't flex out of position as you rig. I just don't get the basics of how to do this. Should I be trying to knot all the thread or should I be trying to hold it with dobs of glue? Is this something that's much easier to do with tweezers and tools? I could just use some basic tips or like an instruction video or something.
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Sep 26, 2011 15:32
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Epi Lepi posted:I just don't get the basics of how to do this. Should I be trying to knot all the thread or should I be trying to hold it with dobs of glue? Is this something that's much easier to do with tweezers and tools? I could just use some basic tips or like an instruction video or something. Needlepoint tweezers are a huge help. Learn how surgeons tie stitches. Dab glue on your knots when you get them tied. Maybe this video will help. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oU-h8i4LtPM
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Sep 28, 2011 10:28
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1/72 Challenger 2: No weathering aside from a wash with a water-based black; I wanted this one to be clean.  Also my first dragon kit; the colors they specified were wrong, and the instructions were not great, but otherwise I'm impressed.   
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Sep 29, 2011 03:15
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Blistex posted:Missing Lynx (http://www.missing-lynx.com/index.htm) is probably the best scale modelling site on the net. They specialize in AFVs, but occasionally someone will post other vehicles. The upside is that they have a really knowledgeable community. The bad side is that pretty much every link you click on in the "Constructive Comments" (http://www.network54.com/Forum/110741/} section will make your your jaw drop in the detail, then get depressed when you realize you will probably never approach their skill.  Seriously. Jesus Christ. I look at how far I've come personally, then I see work like that and just want to give up.
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Sep 29, 2011 14:00
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drat, those are some nicely detailed models. It's astonishing how well they can do tiny details like rank insignia.
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Sep 30, 2011 01:01
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These guys use single hair brushes and high magnification lenses to do that. I can't find it, but this one guy a few years ago scratchbuilt a Ferdinand tank destroyer in such detail that he even made the individual springs BY HAND for under the driver and radio operator's seats and even painted every gauge as well. I don't think he made individual pistons for the engine, but every visible nut and bolt on the interior compartments was there. What I find mindblowing is that once the model is made it is literally impossible to see 99% of the work he did without taking it apart or using some manner of medical fibre optic device used for exploratory surgery.
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Sep 30, 2011 01:43
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| # ? Apr 19, 2024 01:35 |
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Uh. A diorama of a railway car being unloaded at a concentration camp? Seriously? That's rather disturbing.
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Sep 30, 2011 02:17
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