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DJ Commie posted:I put the nut back on level with the threads and tap it with a rubber mallet. Had no problems doing it with the factory tie rod ends on a 22 year old car, I imagine rusty might be less easy. Just tried this today - resulted in pickle fork time again. Rust is a nasty bitch.
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Sep 29, 2011 18:53
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We just got a bunch of fun new tools at work. I had to take this one home to "learn" how to use it     
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Sep 30, 2011 02:08
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Is the last one a breaker box?
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Sep 30, 2011 03:00
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RapeWhistle posted:makita!!! Every one I saw on their site only went to about 100 ft-lbs (all rated in inchounds, though  ). Which one were you talking about?I saw a Dewalt that's rated for 300 ft-lbs which sounds awesome and it's $150. Sounds like it goes through battery juice faster though as a result.
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Sep 30, 2011 03:08
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The Snap-On 14.4v lithium is nothing short of amazing. That thing will rip off lug nuts no problem. It's about $500. I have a Makita 1/4" drive LXT impact driver and I quite like it. It's GREAT for working on OPE and household stuff. I built three decks with it last year, but it won't loosen the wheel bolt from a lawn bug. I think a lot of it is that the Snap-On is 3/8" drive while mine is a quick change shank. A 1/4" piece of metal is going to soak up a lot more torque, even with an adapter. After all, that's what torque sticks are. I would not be averse to trying out a 3/8" drive Makita on a car, but I wouldn't pay to try on the back of my impact driver's performance. In other news, i'm a total Makita whore with 7 tools and counting. Don't like their angle grinders, though. I like one that shuts off when you drop it after sanding the back of your hand.
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Sep 30, 2011 03:19
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Splizwarf posted:Is the last one a breaker box? grover fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Sep 30, 2011 |
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Sep 30, 2011 03:30
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grover posted:Guess AFCIs just run hot?  v
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Sep 30, 2011 03:53
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nmfree posted:I wouldn't consider 106°F to be all that hot, but v  I was getting thermal reflections off the neutral-ground bus tie, which was odd; it looked like a hotspot, but went away when I changed angles. IMHO, this lesson-learned alone was worth bringing the camera home to  And a couple other random shots:   And the voltage and current waveform of my house (B-phase). You can tell there are a lot of switch-mode power supplies: 
grover fucked around with this message at 15:07 on Sep 30, 2011 |
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Sep 30, 2011 14:11
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grover posted:And the voltage and current waveform of my house (B-phase). You can tell there are a lot of switch-mode power supplies: specifically, old ones without power factor correction. Active power factor correction is some pretty awesome stuff, and ON Semiconductor (among other companies) makes a single-chip APFC controller, you just add a couple MOSFETs and passives and you're done.
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Sep 30, 2011 15:11
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kastein posted:specifically, old ones without power factor correction. Active power factor correction is some pretty awesome stuff, and ON Semiconductor (among other companies) makes a single-chip APFC controller, you just add a couple MOSFETs and passives and you're done. grover fucked around with this message at 16:26 on Sep 30, 2011 |
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Sep 30, 2011 15:29
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grover posted:Servers and other high-end equipment are often pretty good, but I've never seen anything like that in consumer-grade equipment. Shoot, I took a reading of my PC at work yesterday (standard HP power supply) and it was just a textbook switch-mode power supply current waveform- a flat line with short little arches up and down at the max and min of each half wave, more like an ECG than a sine wave. I've seen other high-end pro equipment with a double-peaked stetson-hat waveform from all the harmonics. yep... gotta love it. Power companies hate this poo poo. It's mostly due to the way a full wave voltage doubling rectifier works, the diodes only conduct when Vinput >= Vpeak - Vripplepkpk + Vforward. I *think* most consumer grade supplies built to comply with modern euro specs have APFC good enough to give <5% THD, but I'm not sure. EE nerds who want to read more about this can read: * NCP1650 datasheet (covers the part I mentioned, other manufacturers have equivalents) http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Collateral/NCP1650-D.PDF * whitepaper on APFC http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Collateral/HBD853-D.PDF (I don't work for onsemi, I just learned what I know from these docs back when I was in college) kastein fucked around with this message at 16:01 on Sep 30, 2011 |
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Sep 30, 2011 15:56
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grover posted:And a couple other random shots: The higher resolution one I've got laying about here at work is nice to play with (even though I've only ever used it to integrate into our software packages). They're cool tools and I hope they do come down in price. Thermal imaging shows goatees are officially cool  .
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Sep 30, 2011 17:15
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God drat I want a flir.
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Sep 30, 2011 17:48
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meatpimp posted:God drat I want a flir. The one I'm using, FLIR i7, runs about $2k. It's smaller brother, FLIR i5, runs about $1600. The one I really wanted, but couldn't justify spending dropping $5k on vs the i7, is the Fluke Ti25. These are all fairly low resolution. You can spend WAY more than that on higher and higher resolution thermal cameras, though... for instance, that A320 runs about $12k. There are different temperature ranges for different applications, too. grover fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Sep 30, 2011 |
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Sep 30, 2011 18:01
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grover posted:You can! I was just looking and even the i3 is $1k used. I'm just looking for hobby and around-the-house stuff. When I can pick one up for about $4-500 used, I'll jump. I imagine that it'd be like infrared thermometers -- I got one of those about 6 years ago and it's been extremely useful, my wife even uses it for baking. I can only imagine the uses we'd come up with for a flir.
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Sep 30, 2011 19:40
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meatpimp posted:I was just looking and even the i3 is $1k used. I'm just looking for hobby and around-the-house stuff. When I can pick one up for about $4-500 used, I'll jump. I imagine that it'd be like infrared thermometers -- I got one of those about 6 years ago and it's been extremely useful, my wife even uses it for baking. I can only imagine the uses we'd come up with for a flir. Harbor freight has them for $199.99, but all you ever get is a black image. 
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Sep 30, 2011 19:44
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DreamOn13 posted:Every one I saw on their site only went to about 100 ft-lbs (all rated in inchounds, though I'm sure it has its limits, but for the hobbyist it is awesome. Mine broke free 10+ year old rusty axle nuts with only a second of hammering.
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Oct 1, 2011 02:15
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jailbait#3 posted:I continue to recommend the Ryobi 18v impact. 1/2" anvil, 200 ft-lbs, and only $90 or so for the bare tool, and the battery family has drills, saws, and a bloody weedwhacker. That sounds pretty good. All google is showing is ~$90 for just the impact, no batteries or chargers.
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Oct 7, 2011 11:51
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Before I buy http://www.harborfreight.com/rapid-pump-3-ton-heavy-duty-floor-jack-68048.html and a set of stands there tomorrow, for what is pictured to be and reviewed as a solid floor jack for $80 I shouldn't be too concerned about it being useless in six months should I?
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Oct 7, 2011 20:37
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metallicaeg posted:Before I buy http://www.harborfreight.com/rapid-pump-3-ton-heavy-duty-floor-jack-68048.html and a set of stands there tomorrow, for what is pictured to be and reviewed as a solid floor jack for $80 I shouldn't be too concerned about it being useless in six months should I? I own 3 different HF jacks and they all still work flawlessly. One of them is nearly 10 years old at this point and pops a car in the air with almost no effort.
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Oct 7, 2011 20:46
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metallicaeg posted:Before I buy http://www.harborfreight.com/rapid-pump-3-ton-heavy-duty-floor-jack-68048.html and a set of stands there tomorrow, for what is pictured to be and reviewed as a solid floor jack for $80 I shouldn't be too concerned about it being useless in six months should I? It'll last at least a year and a half, that's how long I've had mine and it's still going strong. I've dragged it through rocky muddy junkyards, left it in the bed of my pickup for an entire winter just kinda sliding/rolling/bouncing around, and it is still strong enough to get the front axle of my 5-ton military cargo truck off the ground to change a tire. I don't think I've EVER stored it inside...  (that's a 225/75r15 tire in front of the brake drum for scale... and the floor jack under the axle)
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Oct 7, 2011 21:02
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metallicaeg posted:Before I buy http://www.harborfreight.com/rapid-pump-3-ton-heavy-duty-floor-jack-68048.html and a set of stands there tomorrow, for what is pictured to be and reviewed as a solid floor jack for $80 I shouldn't be too concerned about it being useless in six months should I? I've got the aluminium racing jack from HF and it works perfectly. Extremely quick and low profile. Works great from my lowered car to my truck.
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Oct 7, 2011 21:34
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grover posted:You can! You haven't really lived until you've used a $25K thermal camera as a stud finder.  Anyways, I was looking at some spray guns at Lowes the other day, and was wondering if anyone's had any experience with the Kobalt spray guns. Are they pretty good? Worth like $50 at least? I've been looking to get one of those good brands anyone would recommend?
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Oct 9, 2011 23:18
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ASSTASTIC posted:I've got the aluminium racing jack from HF and it works perfectly. Extremely quick and low profile. Works great from my lowered car to my truck. Is it worth spending almost double the money from the Heavy Duty jack for the blue 2 ton aluminum racing jack?
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Oct 11, 2011 04:17
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Falco posted:Is it worth spending almost double the money from the Heavy Duty jack for the blue 2 ton aluminum racing jack? If it never leaves your floor, probably not worth it. But if you need to carry it around the aluminum one is fantastic.
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Oct 11, 2011 04:40
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The aluminum one is really really nice when you need to put the jack in your trunk.
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Oct 12, 2011 18:14
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Falco posted:Is it worth spending almost double the money from the Heavy Duty jack for the blue 2 ton aluminum racing jack? Ditto to those posters above. I was given a 1.5 aluminum racing jack from Sears a few weeks ago. It barely fits under one car, but does the job very well. If you need the clearance, go for it. That might be a selling point. Try them out in stores and also check out high each goes with each pump. They might be the same, they might be different. If it is used often and heavily, the aluminum might not be the best choice for a day to day garage.
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Oct 12, 2011 19:06
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I just bought a Matco 19.2v cordless impact from a guy on Craigslist. I'm trying to think of something that needs to be taken apart to see how this badboy works. It's heavy as hell, but I've always heard good things about Matco.
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Oct 13, 2011 02:41
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I am thinking about cross posting into DIY but why not discuss here first. Building a new garage and I know we all want huge garages with lifts and what not and then we wake up and mumble about college payments and being dirt poor in general. But here is my question, how big of a garage should I build? I need space for 2 cars plus tools, welder, large air compressor, fridge, and various other bits. I was thinking 24x30x10. It seems to be a popular enough size and I can store my tools along one side of the wall maybe even a motorcycle. AI have a good opinion on size?
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Oct 21, 2011 13:32
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As big as you can afford. I would go 26 foot deep so you have the whole back wall to store junk on without not having room to walk all around your cars. The whole thing is a cost tradeoff. Mine is 40x 24 and wish it was deeper but it is plenty wide. I would build one bay 16 feet high if I was doing it again and have the proper concrete footer put in for a two post lift. I have long cars for some reason.
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Oct 21, 2011 20:21
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Agreed. How much more is it going to cost to go bigger? Are you building it yourself or not? It's really pretty easy to build one aside from the foundation, I'd have that poured by the pros. Then buy a framing nailgun, compressor, a case of nails, all the lumber you need, and rope a couple of friends into helping you stand the walls up and frame the roof. Sheathing, roofing, siding etc can all be done alone or with one person to make it go a little faster. You'll probably save more than enough to pay for all the tools. If you were within ~100 miles I'd help out, it took me and one of my friends about a day to put up his shed and neither of us had done it before, just watched the pros.
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Oct 22, 2011 08:23
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I killed two angle grinders today - a B&Q own-brand "Performance Power" that the motor died on (second one in a month), and a fairly decent Bosch that stripped its gear teeth. Went up to the Screwfix (UK equivalent of HarborFreight) in town, picked up an 850W Erbauer for a shade under £50 - drat this thing's good. No loss of disc speed when cutting, no chattering, and the disc's cutting almost twice as much before in needs replaced. Quality-wise, it's on par with the Makitas we use at work - time will tell how long it lasts, but with a two-year warranty, I'm pretty hopeful...
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Oct 22, 2011 19:46
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I'll third the make it as big as you can reasonably afford. You can get away with smaller if you are very tidy and well organised. However, I always find that I wish I had more space. Once you start getting tools in and storing items and parts it soon seems to ebb away. At the minimum I'd leave space for the vehicles, tools and then a good area around the work vehicle to lay parts out and be able to leave them in situ if you have to stop for a bit.
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Oct 22, 2011 21:56
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heat posted:I got this ClampTool as a gift after seeing it on Cool Tools and it's pretty sweet: Thanks for that cool tools link, I just ordered a 4" spyder scraper reciprocating saw attachment that looks like it'll work out perfect. I've got a linoleum project that I've not been able to get to in a week and the scraping portion is a son of a bitch since the linoleum was originally put down sometime in the 50's. Old linoleum adhesive loving loves to stick to cement. My first run took about 4 hours and I have a clean 8sq ft. section. The room I'm removing linoleum to do stained cement is 300sq ft. total.
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Oct 23, 2011 00:03
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keykey, turn off everything sparky and use solvent. Mineral spirits worked well on the glue I had. If you can rip the linoleum from the glue, do it and then spread a gallon of spirits, lay some thick painters plastic. Wait 45 to an hour and it is much easier. Tool rental shops have this really neat scraping machine that may help too. I tried it, didn't work for my application but I had a strange glue. They are not expensive to rent for an afternoon, and if it doesn't work you may be able to bring it back for no charge. Edit: I wouldn't try this with solvent though, you may blow yourself up.
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Oct 23, 2011 01:02
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AI posted:Garage Yeah the price of the concrete work jumps up a little plus the costs so to make it a little bigger would put me out of a comfortable budget. I plan to build it myself though to save cash. It will be more built like a pole barn than a standard garage for cost savings and I plan to have the spay foam insulation done and most likely will not drywall... maybe do plywood walls.. because there is a 1 car attached garage so that is where the daily driver will be parked. Now that I just bought this truck I am going to have to look at making sure I get taller doors.
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Oct 23, 2011 02:52
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I love my HF 3/4 Breaker bar. I have treated it like poo poo for the last 3 years and it keeps on trucking. Use it as a blunt object along with a sludge hammer? No problem Use it to stomp on and break free Honda Crank Shaft pulley bolts? Not a complaint Use it to rip Head bolts off of a Daewoo Nubira torqued down to 27-ftlbs at 90-90-90? No complaints either. I use HF sockets also, without any problems.
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Oct 23, 2011 03:32
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keykey posted:Thanks for that cool tools link, I just ordered a 4" spyder scraper reciprocating saw attachment that looks like it'll work out perfect. I've got a linoleum project that I've not been able to get to in a week and the scraping portion is a son of a bitch since the linoleum was originally put down sometime in the 50's. Old linoleum adhesive loving loves to stick to cement. My first run took about 4 hours and I have a clean 8sq ft. section. The room I'm removing linoleum to do stained cement is 300sq ft. total. Tile adhesives from the 50s/60s? Asbestos? 
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Oct 23, 2011 04:10
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Sockington posted:Tile adhesives from the 50s/60s? Asbestos?
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Oct 23, 2011 06:49
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Yeah the price of the concrete work jumps up a little plus the costs so to make it a little bigger would put me out of a comfortable budget. I plan to build it myself though to save cash. It will be more built like a pole barn than a standard garage for cost savings and I plan to have the spay foam insulation done and most likely will not drywall... maybe do plywood walls.. because there is a 1 car attached garage so that is where the daily driver will be parked. Now that I just bought this truck I am going to have to look at making sure I get taller doors. drywall is ~$7/sheet (1/2"), plywood is ~$16 (same thickness.) I'd probably go with plywood for strength/durability, but it is more expensive... If I build a garage it's staying unfinished past the 8 foot mark (MIGHT finish it up to that point) on the walls, and any money I save not completely finishing it will go into 2x4s and plywood to build a bunch of deep heavy duty shelves and racks along the walls for motors, transmissions, transfer cases, axles, toolboxes, power tools, etc. I hate piling that stuff up, and I hate losing floor space because I have everything spread out along the walls.
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Oct 24, 2011 04:03
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