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I'd mash lower than 155-156* for a DIPA. The fact that its mostly extract will keep your FG high as it is, you need all the digestability you can get for the yeast. IMO pretty much all big beers (1.07+) get mashed 147-149*. Maybe an RIS I'd go to 152*.
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Oct 5, 2011 02:15
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tesilential posted:I'd mash lower than 155-156* for a DIPA. I agree. 156 is good for beers that would otherwise be too thin, like milds, but as your gravity rises, you need to keep things fermentable just so it won't be cloying. Especially for a DIPA, where you want a balance toward the hoppy end of things, the malt really just needs to get out of the way.
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Oct 5, 2011 02:31
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Hey Rage-Saq where do you get your D1 candi syrup? I'm doing a quad soon and my lhbs is out of the syrup they carry, and the syrup at northern brewer has 2 bad reviews saying it's not very flavorful. Also I just looked through Brew Like A Monk and they say Westvletern secondaries the beer at 50*, do you do that? I'll be brewing this for a competition that's in December so I'll have 6-7 weeks before I need to bottle the beer. I was thinking do 2-3 weeks at the upper temperature range then drop it down to 50* for the remaining weeks. Since I want it drinkable in 2 months though I wasn't sure if I should do that or just leave it at fermentation temps the entire time. Josh Wow fucked around with this message at 09:06 on Oct 5, 2011 |
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Oct 5, 2011 08:49
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Darth Goku Jr posted:Ok, so I'm not exactly the biggest hop head, but my friend wants to... basically overpay for supplies and let me keep the difference if i decided to make an DIPA. Specifically if i made one with a lot of intense citrusy flavor and aroma. So far I know potential hops to use would include amarillo, galaxy, centennial, Nelson Sauvin, citra etc. Does anyone have a go to citrus bomb recipe? I do BIAB partial mashes. Either way, I'd put a decent amount at 0 and dry hopping, it'll be nicely focused. And because this thread needs more photos here is one I took after roller pin-ing my grain but before clean up. 
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Oct 5, 2011 13:20
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nesbit37 posted:I assume the answer is yes, but can I rack a beer from the primary into a keg for the secondary to just sit around and wait for room in the kegerator to open up? I can't see why this is an issue but something in the back of my mind is nagging me to ask. The beer is an IPA if it matters. Indeed the answer is yes. I have 2 kegs sitting in my garage right now waiting on space. You might not want to wait long for an IPA. Hoppy beers tend to be better fresher. But that's a function of age, not what you store it in.
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Oct 5, 2011 15:21
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Josh Wow posted:Hey Rage-Saq where do you get your D1 candi syrup? I'm doing a quad soon and my lhbs is out of the syrup they carry, and the syrup at northern brewer has 2 bad reviews saying it's not very flavorful. http://www.candisyrup.com/ I'm using 2lbs of D90 and 1lbs of D180 the next time I brew (and the reverse, 2lbs of D180 and 1lbs of D90 the time after that). Their stuff is top notch quality. I do 3 weeks in the conical, letting it get up to at least 80f. I also crash cool it and get a pretty clean rack to keg. They don't get a very clean rack which is why the "lagering" (maturation) is at 50f for so long is so it gets the yeast to drop out as the Westmalle yeast is not a particularly good floccuator. In a purged keg I usually pressurize it and let it mature at fermenting fridge temp (58f-60f) for at least 4 weeks. Check https://www.thesaq.net/beer/recipes (not fancy looking yet, I'm working on an index page and other stuff) it has my quad recipe that I'm brewing in a week or two and its called The Pious.
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Oct 5, 2011 17:20
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drewhead posted:Indeed the answer is yes. I have 2 kegs sitting in my garage right now waiting on space. You might not want to wait long for an IPA. Hoppy beers tend to be better fresher. But that's a function of age, not what you store it in. Great, thanks. I won't let it sit around too long. This is about the 6th time I have made this particular recipe, and the last time I just threw it right into the kegerator with the dry hop bag after the primary. It was easily my least favorite of the batches. I want to let it sit out for a week or two to dry hop at room temperature while waiting for room to free up this time around. Great to know I don't need to bother dirtying a carboy needlessly.
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Oct 5, 2011 19:19
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Where do people buy their hops in bulk from? I'm trying to crunch numbers on buying a vacuum sealer and the hops I'll need for the year. I've looked at hopsdirect.com and they seem to have the lowest prices that I've seen, hovering around $15 a lb. Ebay seems to have a lot of "wet" hops in bulk right now. Has anyone gone that route before?
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Oct 5, 2011 20:02
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Holy crap hopsdirect sold out fast as heck. I guess I will really have to be on my game when the pellets come out. Coinetelprofessional: Hopsdirect is a good source, so is freshops.com although they are a little more pricy. If you don't mind buying hops that are a yr or 2 old, nikobrew.com has a deal going on for a little bit. I try to look on http://www.homebrewtalk.com/ in the vendors section for deals before I buy.
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Oct 5, 2011 23:08
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I'm not sure hopsdirect put their crop up for sale yet, i've been watching for a couple of days and their site hasn't changed.
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Oct 5, 2011 23:30
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j3rkstore posted:I'm not sure hopsdirect put their crop up for sale yet, i've been watching for a couple of days and their site hasn't changed. Hopsdirect put their leaf crop up for sale today (the 5th) http://www.hopsdirect.com/store/domestic-leaf-hops.html
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Oct 5, 2011 23:32
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Hypnolobster posted:Hopsdirect put their leaf crop up for sale today (the 5th) They sure did. All the kinds I wanted are already sold out.
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Oct 5, 2011 23:34
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ifuckedjesus posted:They sure did. All the kinds I wanted are already sold out. Huh.. It doesn't say on the site that they're sold out. Do they email back after ordering and say they're out or am I missing something obvious? e: or did they just take them off the page. It looks like there's no amarillo or centennial, etc.
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Oct 5, 2011 23:47
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Hypnolobster posted:e: or did they just take them off the page. It looks like there's no amarillo or centennial, etc. Bingo. I saw them on there this morning as I was running out the door to work. Had I realized they were going to go THAT fast I would have ordered some. Hopefully I will be quick enough on the draw to get in on the pellets when they come out.
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Oct 5, 2011 23:51
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Well, I just picked up a pound of magnum (and a friend bought me another pound on his order), a pound of Columbus and pound of Northern Brewer to try and dial in a california common I've been brewing and rebrewing for nearly a year trying to get perfect. I love whole hops so much.
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Oct 6, 2011 00:05
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ifuckedjesus posted:I saw them on there this morning as I was running out the door to work. Had I realized they were going to go THAT fast I would have ordered some. Same here. Jesus. I guess I should order some from freshops even though they're so much more expensive  e: actually when you include shipping, the price per oz for Simcoe/Amarillo from freshops is the same as the overpriced hops from my local stores. I might as well give them my business. indigi fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Oct 6, 2011 |
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Oct 6, 2011 00:07
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 I've been checking the pellet section
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Oct 6, 2011 00:42
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I just bought 6 gallons of Festabrew wort but unfortunately I bought the continental pilsner without realizing how low of a temperature I will need to brew this properly (not to mention the amount of time required). It came with a saflager s-23. If I were to treat this like an ale, would it turn out badly? Would you recommend I use a different yeast? THis is only my second brewing attempt so I am not prepared for an overly long and relatively complicated fermentation.
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Oct 6, 2011 02:44
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bssoil posted:I just bought 6 gallons of Festabrew wort but unfortunately I bought the continental pilsner without realizing how low of a temperature I will need to brew this properly (not to mention the amount of time required). It came with a saflager s-23. If I were to treat this like an ale, would it turn out badly? Would you recommend I use a different yeast? It should come out just fine with an ale yeast. Use Safale 05 or the like. White Labs 001 or Wyeast 1056 if you want to use liquid yeast. These all should work out great.
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Oct 6, 2011 03:05
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Just grab a packet of US-05 or Nottingham and it'll be a tasty ale.
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Oct 6, 2011 03:05
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Ok here's my stupid easy extract Hefe recipe (2.5 gallon): 12.0 oz DME Wheat Bavarian (Briess) [Boil for60 min](3.4 SRM) 0.34 oz Hallertau [4.30 %] - Boil 60.0 min 2 lbs 3.0 oz DME Wheat Bavarian (Briess) [Boil for15 min](3.4 SRM) 0.34 oz Hallertau [4.30 %] - Boil 60.0 min Wyeast Labs #3068 Beersmith 2 tells me this results in 5.4% ABV, 14 IBU, 3.9 SRM Yep... going for Weihenstephaner clone. One problem. Not really getting that ginormous beautiful foamy head, retention, and lacing. Is there anything I can add/steep to aid in this? I was thinking CaraPils. The flavor is very close to perfect. Don't want to mess with that any...
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Oct 6, 2011 03:27
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You could try steeping 4-8oz of flaked barley or wheat if you don't want to go with Carapils. The adjuncts add some extra protein which will help with head retention, and any cloudiness that results won't be out of place for the style.
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Oct 6, 2011 03:45
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Thanks for the advice, will do that. I will report back when I taste...
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Oct 6, 2011 03:58
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rage-saq posted:Check https://www.thesaq.net/beer/recipes (not fancy looking yet, I'm working on an index page and other stuff) it has my quad recipe that I'm brewing in a week or two and its called The Pious. Thanks for the info. I was planning on just doing 50/50 pale/pils based on Brew Like A Monk and some old posts of yours I dug up. Do you like the version with more specialty grains significantly better? Edit: Just dropped $40 on candi syrup  I got 2 lbs of D180 and 1 lb of D90 for this quad, and then a pound each of D90 and D45 for some future batches.
Josh Wow fucked around with this message at 07:03 on Oct 6, 2011 |
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Oct 6, 2011 06:55
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rage-saq posted:Check https://www.thesaq.net/beer/recipes (not fancy looking yet, I'm working on an index page and other stuff) it has my quad recipe that I'm brewing in a week or two and its called The Pious. Funny, I actually pulled this recipe from HBT and I'm brewing it on Sunday. Didn't realize that it was you!
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Oct 6, 2011 07:06
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Josh Wow posted:Thanks for the info. I was planning on just doing 50/50 pale/pils based on Brew Like A Monk and some old posts of yours I dug up. Do you like the version with more specialty grains significantly better? I've done it a ton of different ways, this is my current recipe for the pursuit of quad perfection. I've done it with the 50/50 pale/pils based on BLAM with and without decoction, I've done it according to some clone beer book that was all specialty grains and some simple sugar but both of them lack something and I've done some other crazy poo poo. The best one I've ever done was my very first batch of it which was the specialty grains version, in a blind quad "competition" (9 entrants, check HBT for some details) it beat a Westvleteren 12 by a hair but I've never been able to really recreate it. Not sure what I did about it that was so awesome but it really captured all of the flavors the real deal had but it was a touch more lively than the real thing. Now I take the grainbill from the "New World" batch 1 winner, modify the hop schedule a little, use the good candi syrups and do a separate boildown and it is REALLY good. The last one I did with this technique I accidentally mashed too high at 152f and used the Dark Candi Syrup Inc stuff and ended up with a 1.019 FG, it tasted all kinds of awesome and amazing but was just way too sweet so I threw brett at it. The next one I'm doing will basically be the same thing but mashing at 149 and with the new Candy Syrup. I renamed the recipes, added my original New World batch to my recipes folder and added more notes to the Hybrid v5 with some things that I just know to do but don't put in the notes. So hit https://www.thesaq.net/beer/recipes for the new stuff. mattdev posted:Funny, I actually pulled this recipe from HBT and I'm brewing it on Sunday. Didn't realize that it was you! Thanks! You should read my other threads about the recipe deconstruction we went through and the competition etc, some interesting blabbering about westy style quads in there. I'm a bit obsessed with quads (obviously) but luckily my wife is so awesome that one of her favorite honeymoon pictures is one of the two of us in front of In De Vrede across the street from St Sixtus.
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Oct 6, 2011 07:29
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Could you talk about why the ProAm version is so different from the others? Specifically, why the drastic reduction in CaraMunich and the loss of Aromatic, Biscuit, and Chocolate altogether, and the alteration of the base malt/syrup %ages/addition of flaked adjuncts? I've always wondered about why there are (have to be?) differences when scaling up a homebrew/1bbl pilot brew batch to a full capacity brew.
indigi fucked around with this message at 09:34 on Oct 6, 2011 |
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Oct 6, 2011 09:32
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I went to my first homebrew club meeting last night (Foam on the Range) and had a pretty good time. There was a guest speaker from Five Star chemicals giving a presentation about PBW, but he answered questions about a lot of their other products. The big surprise for Star San was you're probably better off making it fresh every time. If you keep it covered, it doesn't cloud up, and the pH doesn't change, you're good to go, though. Also if you keep it covered and use distilled water it will last forever. But unless you're willing to get distilled water or test your pH all the time, it's better to just make it fresh everytime. Also their 5.2 pH buffer was made for a brewery with constantly changing water. Sometimes it was well water, sometimes it was runoff, and the pH was all over the map. They didn't trust their apprentice brewers to do the right thing. The word from the presenter and the room was that you should know your water and pH and not need it.
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Oct 6, 2011 15:49
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indigi posted:Could you talk about why the ProAm version is so different from the others? Specifically, why the drastic reduction in CaraMunich and the loss of Aromatic, Biscuit, and Chocolate altogether, and the alteration of the base malt/syrup %ages/addition of flaked adjuncts? I've always wondered about why there are (have to be?) differences when scaling up a homebrew/1bbl pilot brew batch to a full capacity brew. The proam recipe was based an older version of the recipe, and when I worked with the brewer on modifying it we had some meetings on going over his efficiency/procedures/etc that his system has and adapting my recipe. I brought over a few different batches of my beer that we had at the meeting and this version was the one that we picked as the best, which was was only a minor difference from the one that won the BJCP competition. We added some flaked barley and wheat so we'd have big fat head retention. I still do that on some beers but not on this one lately. In reality you can scale a homebrew recipe up however big you want with the only adjustments being mash efficiency and kettle hop utilization.
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Oct 6, 2011 16:24
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rage-saq posted:In reality you can scale a homebrew recipe up however big you want with the only adjustments being mash efficiency and kettle hop utilization. Mash efficiency is easy, but since no one has any real idea what the actual IBU content of their homebrew is, how do you adjust for kettle hop utilization as volume scales? Or is that just a variable in the Tinseth (and other) formulae? Regarding this: http://www.tastybrew.com/forum/thread/95044 posted:John Harris, Full Sail's brewer at their Portland Brewery, uses 35% as his utilization for a 20 BBL system for a 60 minute addition. 45% for a 90 minute addition. Over the years they have had IBUs checked by labs so this should be pretty close. Does that mean that hop additions are reduced by 35 - 45% from the size we would expect from a linear scaling at a 20BBL batch size? That is, I am using 2 ounces of Citra at 60 minutes in 1/3 BBL as a homebrew batch. A linear scaling would imply that I would use 60 times as much, or 120 ounces in a 20 BBL batch, but if I were to go to Full Sail and try it, I would use 35% less, or 78 ounces? Edit to add: A little Googling and reading shows the utilization varies from rig to rig and process to process. Basically, the brewer just has to have experience with the rig and derive his own utilization number. Edit again: There's a little brewery near me that is run by some former homebrewers. Maybe on Sunday I will go over there and ask them about it. Jo3sh fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Oct 6, 2011 |
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Oct 6, 2011 16:47
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Docjowles posted:Anyone have experience or advice for reusing lager yeast? It was a German pilsner, sat in primary for about 3 weeks between primary and diacetyl rest, then another 2 weeks dropping to lager temp/lagering. Gonna rack it to a keg over the weekend to continue lagering if needed, or just put it on tap. Had a couple followup questions to this. 1) When I washed the yeast I didn't get a distinct "trub line" at all. There's just a layer of clear beer and then a giant layer of "brownish stuff". I guess it's possible I ruled at transferring the beer to the fermenter and just left all the trub behind but it seems odd. A few posts on homebrewtalk lead me to believe this might be common for lager yeasts but there actually seems to be almost zero talk of reusing lager yeast on the net at all. Anyone here washed lager yeast, and what was your experience? 2) The yeast is WLP800 Bohemian pilsner. Anyone used this in another lager style successfully? It seems pretty clean and neutral.
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Oct 6, 2011 17:03
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Jo3sh posted:Mash efficiency is easy, but since no one has any real idea what the actual IBU content of their homebrew is, how do you adjust for kettle hop utilization as volume scales? Or is that just a variable in the Tinseth (and other) formulae? Utilization rates do vary from rig to rig and process to process and from brew to brew. Those efficiency numbers are for certain calculations. While its true I don't really know the exact IBUs of my batches I know what variations in IBUs I've done on this recipe in particular (anywhere from 28 to 35 IBU, 30-31 seems to be "right") we worked on lining up our numbers and adjusting formula's until we came to something that looked like it was agreeable.
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Oct 6, 2011 17:46
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So I'm finally switching the BIAB since I have a large enough kettle. Based on the next time I'm going to be able to brew, I'd like to do a holiday beer as it will probably be ready just before Thanksgiving and Christmas. Does anyone have BIAB recipies for a good winter/holiday beer. I'm thinking some kind of spiced ale. I ferment in my basement which is pretty consistantly between 52* and 58* during the Fall and early Winter, so I'd prefer a beer that is generally fermented on the colder end. I suppose I could even lager at those temps... I don't know, any suggestions? and any recipes?
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Oct 6, 2011 18:51
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BerkerkLurk posted:The big surprise for Star San was you're probably better off making it fresh every time. If you keep it covered, it doesn't cloud up, and the pH doesn't change, you're good to go, though. Also if you keep it covered and use distilled water it will last forever. But unless you're willing to get distilled water or test your pH all the time, it's better to just make it fresh everytime. I mix up 5 gallons at time with distilled water then put it in a corny keg. It takes me about 20 batches to go through it, I tested it periodically with pH strips and was always in range. I like it because it's on tap if I need it, fill up my spray bottle from it, push it through hoses after cleaning so they're ready to go. I can't imagine brewing without it now. Plus side is that you don't waste anywhere near as much, I really don't think I'm going to need another bottle of starsan for 5 years.
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Oct 6, 2011 21:37
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silver97232 posted:I mix up 5 gallons at time with distilled water then put it in a corny keg. That's a frighteningly good idea, considering I have been rehabbing these kegs I have had lying around and now have extras...
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Oct 6, 2011 21:44
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Jo3sh posted:That's a frighteningly good idea, considering I have been rehabbing these kegs I have had lying around and now have extras... I also have a co2 line that runs to my brewstand, I just put a T coming off the main regulator and it hangs down so I can use it when needed, very handy and cheap. Having a hose with a sprayer on it is helpful too, the water is always on, just pull the trigger, it lives in the utility sink but reaches to the brewstand. Time optimization and reduction of variables are my new objectives, it's pretty amazing how many variables are involved in brewing, and tricky to eliminate them. Recently I've been working on getting Beersmith to have 6 different profiles so I can accurately predict gravity based on grain bill and boil length, a lot more fun than it sounds like.
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Oct 6, 2011 23:00
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Has anybody else heard things about never keeping star san under co2? I know I've read it once or twice, but the reasoning that I seem to remember was that co2 neutralizes starsan. But I've always been under the impression that co2 turns into carbonic acid in solution with water. It's still always worried me the tiniest little bit so I've never kept star san in a keg.
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Oct 7, 2011 00:18
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Hypnolobster posted:Has anybody else heard things about never keeping star san under co2? I know I've read it once or twice, but the reasoning that I seem to remember was that co2 neutralizes starsan. Carbonic acid is a diprotic acid that can act as a buffer. Yes it's an acid, but that just means its pH is less than 7; it likes to sit at pH 5.7 or around that neighborhood. The instructions for Star San say its good as long as it's pH is below 3. I would not keep Star San under CO2.
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Oct 7, 2011 01:30
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plester1 posted:Carbonic acid is a diprotic acid that can act as a buffer. Yes it's an acid, but that just means its pH is less than 7; it likes to sit at pH 5.7 or around that neighborhood. The instructions for Star San say its good as long as it's pH is below 3. I would not keep Star San under CO2. I do not know enough to speak academically on the subject, however I checked it after 75 days of storage under CO2, pH was 2.7. Of course it's stored at 68, and since CO2 is less soluble at higher temperatures there's less in solution. I've really given up on checking, I was paranoid at first but after sampling for over 2 months and seeing no change I'm pretty well sold.
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Oct 7, 2011 03:09
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Daedalus Esquire posted:So I'm finally switching the BIAB since I have a large enough kettle. Based on the next time I'm going to be able to brew, I'd like to do a holiday beer as it will probably be ready just before Thanksgiving and Christmas. BIAB is just an easy all grain method, so you don't need to look up specific BIAB recipes, any All Grain recipe will work fine. If I may make a suggestion, run your grains through the mill twice (double crush) at the LHBS or wherever you get your grains. I always double crush and get from 75-85% efficiency, depending on the size of the grist. Last brew I did a single crush for the hell of it and ended up at 59% efficiency with simple 11 lb maris otter grist.
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Oct 7, 2011 03:54
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