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tesilential posted:Listen to Jos3h. I am doing 5 gallon all grain BIAB brews in a bigass 20 gallon pot indoors. I don't think I could do it with electric burners but the pot is big enough to put under 2 gas burners on my oven. I haven't timed my brew day but I'm thinking it takes me about 2x as long as you to heat the water. I can't wait to get setup with a turkey burner outside. Maybe you will luck out and have parents/grandparents with a big old pot they don't use like I did? (THANKS GRANDMA)
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Oct 16, 2011 16:02
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While pricing a recipe for a Zombie dust clone, I realized that I can get a lb of citra hops for about the same price as the 9 oz I'll need. What issues are there with adding a lb? Obviously it won't be a clone anymore, but could I ruin the beer? For reference, here's the recipe I was going to use. 6.00 lb Extra Light Dry Extract (3.0 SRM) Dry Extract 70.6 % 1.00 lb Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 11.8 % 0.50 lb Carafoam (2.0 SRM) Grain 5.9 % 0.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 5.9 % 0.50 lb Melanoiden Malt (20.0 SRM) Grain 5.9 % 1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (60 min) Hops 25.1 IBU 0.75 oz Citra [12.40%] (20 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 12.5 IBU 1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (15 min) Hops 12.4 IBU 1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (10 min) Hops 9.1 IBU 1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (5 min) Hops 5.0 IBU 1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (1 min) Hops 1.1 IBU 3.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (Dry Hop 10 days) Hops - 1 Pkgs California Ale (DCL Yeast #S-05) Yeast-Ale 1 Pkgs SafAle English Ale (DCL Yeast #S-04) Yeast-Ale Beer Profile Estimated Original Gravity: 1.066 SG Estimated Final Gravity: 1.018 SG Estimated Color: 9.0 SRM Bitterness: 65.2 IBU Cointelprofessional fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Oct 16, 2011 |
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Oct 16, 2011 20:28
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You can make a beer unpleasantly bitter. Why not just save the other 7 oz for other beers? That being said, I've done a beer with a pound of hops before and it was very good but it was a DIPA and you're in IPA range right now. If you want to do it I'd add the extra hops at 5-0 min or dry hop with them so your IBUs don't get too high.
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Oct 17, 2011 00:39
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All citra hopped beer 
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Oct 17, 2011 01:35
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Josh Wow posted:You can make a beer unpleasantly bitter. Why not just save the other 7 oz for other beers? That being said, I've done a beer with a pound of hops before and it was very good but it was a DIPA and you're in IPA range right now. I'd also look into adding like another 10% of the grain bill by weight as table sugar. You need a big beer to stand up to a goddam pound of hops, but a good DIPA is also pretty dry. The sugar gives you the extra alcohol and and also helps it finish low.
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Oct 17, 2011 02:04
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I've got a recipe that calls for Northern Brewer hops at 60 and 20 minutes, but I'd rather use some of the bulk hops I have in my freezer instead of buying new ones. I haven't brewed with N.Brewer before, would Willamette or Cascade make a better substitute? It's a stout, so I'm not looking for too much hop flavor/aroma.
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Oct 17, 2011 03:24
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mattdev posted:All citra hopped beer Widmer's X-114, Three Floyds Zombie Dust, Founders All-Day IPA, and Surly Wet all disagree. I would save the excess hops if I could, but I don't have a vacuum sealer to preserve anything. I would prefer to just use them fresh rather than saving them.
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Oct 17, 2011 04:50
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Toebone posted:I've got a recipe that calls for Northern Brewer hops at 60 and 20 minutes, but I'd rather use some of the bulk hops I have in my freezer instead of buying new ones. I haven't brewed with N.Brewer before, would Willamette or Cascade make a better substitute? It's a stout, so I'm not looking for too much hop flavor/aroma. I'd go for Willamette for the 20 minute addition, and then whichever is higher alpha acid % for bittering (if you care about maximizing your hop use, otherwise just go all Willamette). Like you said, outside of certain American examples stouts don't have much hop character. Citrusy Cascade would be out of place in a traditional English or Irish stout, which is why I'd prefer Willamette and its more floral and earthy English caracter.
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Oct 17, 2011 04:57
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Cointelprofessional posted:Widmer's X-114, Three Floyds Zombie Dust, Founders All-Day IPA, and Surly Wet all disagree. You can go buy the ziploc bags that have a pump at the store. Not as good as a food saver, but better than nothing. You'll get 3 qt bags and a pump for like 4 bucks.
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Oct 17, 2011 06:11
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mattdev posted:All citra hopped beer Sorry dude, Zombie Dust and Wet are both loving delicious.
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Oct 17, 2011 06:14
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Huge_Midget posted:Sorry dude, Zombie Dust and Wet are both loving delicious. I didn't know zombie dust was all citra. I had some of that the other day at a tasting (we don't get 3F out here at all) and I really didn't like it because it just reeked of cat piss to me. It all makes sense now.
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Oct 17, 2011 07:01
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Looking at brewing up my 3rd ever batch this weekend and wanted to do something a little different. I haven't gotten to all-grain yet, but extract w/ specilty grains is right up my alley. I wanted to brew an india red ale (ira) and was wondering if anyone had a good recipe for this. I've checked online and other than one from Double Mountain Brewery in Hood River, OR, I haven't found much. I haven't really gotten into making my own recipes yet, but would love to learn how. There any good sites to read up on this?
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Oct 17, 2011 13:28
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Lord_Xar posted:Looking at brewing up my 3rd ever batch this weekend and wanted to do something a little different. I haven't gotten to all-grain yet, but extract w/ specilty grains is right up my alley. I wanted to brew an india red ale (ira) and was wondering if anyone had a good recipe for this. I've checked online and other than one from Double Mountain Brewery in Hood River, OR, I haven't found much. I haven't really gotten into making my own recipes yet, but would love to learn how. There any good sites to read up on this? I'm also brewing one of these soon. If you want basically a red IPA you can just add 2 oz of roasted barley to any IPA recipe to get some red color. Maybe 1 # crystal 60, 2 oz roasted barley, plus extract. Jos3h posted a recipe a page or two back that has more crystal of you want a sweeter beer.
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Oct 17, 2011 17:20
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Corbet posted:I did one batch of homebrew a few years ago and I'm looking to start up again. I remember having a ton of issues with boil overs because I was using a 12-quart pot and I want to get something bigger - should I just get a 20-quart or should I opt for something even bigger? I do 5 gallon full boil batches in a 30 quart [7.5gal] turkey fryer kit. Instead of topping up, I opt to boil down to target volume so when it hits boil it's close to the rim. With this setup, the vapor in the boil displacing volume, the foam gets pretty close to the top so I use a spray bottle full of water and squirt it keep the foam down. It's only really an issue before hot break happens and while I'm dialing in the heat for a steady rolling boil - so I only have to tend it for a few minutes. http://thebrownbottle.wordpress.com/2010/03/12/the-basics-needed-for-all-grain-brewing/ The second pic down is pretty much exactly what I use. For a 60 minute boil, I fill it to the rivets and get almost precisely 5 gallons out of it every time.
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Oct 17, 2011 17:56
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Are ball lock kegs becoming harder to find? Keg Connection wants $50 for used ball lock kegs. They have cheaper 'converted' ones and an even cheaper one with a 'racetrack' lid. I'm pretty wary of going with either of those options. I could go pin lock, but everything I've heard says ball lock is the way to go, plus aren't ball lock thinner, thus easier to fit more of them in a fridge?
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Oct 17, 2011 19:03
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I see 5 gallon cornies on kegconnection.com for $35, which seems pretty normal: http://stores.kegconnection.com/Detail.bok?no=421
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Oct 17, 2011 19:08
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Prefect Six posted:Are ball lock kegs becoming harder to find? Keg Connection wants $50 for used ball lock kegs. They have cheaper 'converted' ones and an even cheaper one with a 'racetrack' lid. I'm pretty wary of going with either of those options. Prices do seem to be rising. I think this is for a couple of reasons: 1) They are not so widely used anymore. I think basically all of the soda fountains and bottlers have switched over to bag-in-a-box systems, so there are fewer kegs out there and the flood of decommissioned kegs is slowing to a trickle. 2) Scrap metal prices are very high right now. I'm pretty sure either of kegconnection's lower-cost options will work ok. They are nonstandard, meaning some parts may be harder to find down the road, but these things really do hold up to abuse pretty well. You are correct that pin-lock kegs are a little fatter than ball-locks. They are also a little shorter. Depending on your specific application, this can mean one or the other will fit better. I know a guy who specifically runs pin-locks because they work better for his kegerator. You can also check around on Craigslist and such. I have heard that they do pop up from time to time in the $30-40 range, but that they tend to go fast when they do.
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Oct 17, 2011 19:14
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I have a pair of converted ball lock kegs with "racetrack" lid. Seems to work fine. Got em from http://cornykeg.com/catalog.asp?prodid=674156 - split the order with a friend for savings on shipping.
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Oct 17, 2011 19:48
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Hey sup, I bought a Pin-lock keg just to fit in my fridge. Racked my big-ol'-wheat onto the fresh (puree in a bag) cranberries. Made a loving huge mess, lets just say thankfully bleach gets cranberry stain off. I also tossed 4 apples into the mix after rereading the fruit section in Radical Brewing. I also had to break the secondaries in parts. What I did: Realized all the fruit and their juice wasn't going to fit in the 5gal secondary. Racked from primary into bucket with bag and juice, then moved remaining -uncranberried - beer into a temp vessel. Racked the lightly soaked beer all back to the (now clean) bucket and then back into secondary with bag of goop, leaving some juice/beer mix behind. So I've got ~2gal not on the bag, but it's got the fresh juice mixed in with a blanket of co2 I attempted to put on top. Here is to hoping it comes out.
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Oct 17, 2011 19:49
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I've been going through my kegs and rehabbing them all where needed. Not shown: 3 - Five gallon kegs currently in the serving fridge 2 - Five gallon kegs on long term loan 1 - Three gallon and 1 - five gallon that need parts
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Oct 17, 2011 20:10
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I'm jealous. My keg situation is a major bottleneck for me. I can brew a really really significant amount of beer in a day and I still only have 4 kegs and 2 faucets (and a fridge that can hold about 10 kegs..). My biggest problem is that goddamned Perlick faucets are insanely expensive, and I refuse to use the cheap chrome faucets because of all the horror stories of chrome flaking off and gross buildup inside.
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Oct 17, 2011 20:14
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Those cornies that have only a handle and no collar should be the standard.
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Oct 17, 2011 20:14
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RiggenBlaque posted:Those cornies that have only a handle and no collar should be the standard. Fun fact: Those little three-gallon kegs fit perfectly inside the five-gallon Rubbermaid cylindrical cooler if you remove the handle. This makes them perfect for taking beer along to BBQs, parties, camping trips, etc.
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Oct 17, 2011 20:17
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I did an 8 gallon batch in Mid-August just because I had some yeast I wanted to use up, 5 gallons went to what I was planning on doing and the extra 3 went to my extra yeast I had. While I've already finished drinking the main batch I just got around to kegging the extra 3 gallon batch today. The OG on it was 1.054 and my reused yeast cake of the Weihenstephan yeast took it down to 1.004. There's definitely no infection, after I took the reading I made sure to drink the entire hydrometer sample to try and identify any off flavors. The beer did get up to about 78* after primary fermentation had finished up (or so I thought) and I pulled it out of my chest freezer, so I assume that and the long time in primary are what took it down so far.
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Oct 18, 2011 02:01
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I'm not familiar with that yeast but that's good attenuation. What temp did you mash at? All of my brews see 78* for a week or three after primary and I haven't noticed especially high attenuation.
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Oct 18, 2011 02:42
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I've become really comfortable with specialty grains but I'd like to jump to the simple mini-mash described on HBT to make an oatmeal stout. I make six gallon batches with a base of 7lb pale LME. Does a half pound each of 2-row, roasted barley, flaked barley, 77L crystal, and instant oatmeal seem OK for the mini-mash? How much water would it need with 2.5lb of grain? I'm not sure how "conversion" is handled with unmalted oatmeal and barley in the mix.
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Oct 18, 2011 03:21
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tesilential posted:I'm not familiar with that yeast but that's good attenuation. What temp did you mash at? 154*F. The main beer was a black saison, the only thing that would have contributed to such a low FG would be .5 lb table sugar. The saison portion went down to 1.006 but that was with the French Saison yeast which is to be expected.
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Oct 18, 2011 03:22
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mewse posted:I've become really comfortable with specialty grains but I'd like to jump to the simple mini-mash described on HBT to make an oatmeal stout. You'll probably want equal parts base malt and specialty grains. So if yo have a total of 2 pounds of specialty grains as you describe, you'll want 2 pounds of 2-row. For a mini-mash, water:grain ratio is less critical than in an all-grain recipe, but you'll want to think about something in the neighborhood of 1.25 quarts of water per pound of total grain. So if you had 2 pounds of specialty grain, plus 2 pounds of 2-row, 5 quarts of water would be a good place to start. Keep the whole thing between 150 and 160 for an hour, drain to your main boiler, and add water to make your preboil volume plus your malt extract.
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Oct 18, 2011 03:29
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Jo3sh posted:Keep the whole thing between 150 and 160 for an hour, drain to your main boiler, and add water to make your preboil volume plus your malt extract. The easy mini mash thing describes sparging in a second pot, that would be a good idea right? 1 hr at ~155 to mash, then 15 minute sparge? e: I love this thread so much, always helping with my stupid questions mewse fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Oct 18, 2011 |
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Oct 18, 2011 03:34
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Yep, that seems like a good idea - it will help you get the most out of your grain.
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Oct 18, 2011 05:06
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I'm getting ready to start gathering ingredients for my 3rd brew; I'm just starting to drink my first (Irish Red kit that came with my starter kit from Midwest Brewing), getting ready to bottle my second brew this weekend (Amarillo-hopped wheat, loosely based off of 3 Floyd's Gumball Head, half the batch is going to get a pumpkin tincture addition at bottling), and I'm thinking of trying out a stout for my next batch. So does anyone have a good (extract-based - don't have the equipment for all-grain yet) stout recipe I can get my feet wet with? Also, has anyone tried making a tincture by doing a pressure infusion with a cream whipper yet? I'm going to start playing around with it myself soon, and just wanted to see if anyone has any tips or tricks.
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Oct 18, 2011 16:41
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Jo3sh posted:1) DME and LME are pretty well interchangeable, so you should have no problem there. I have not heard that LME is easier to caramelize, but I do know that old or poorly stored LME can darken over time. I think you'll have a hard time getting as pale a beer as you would from all-grain no matter how you do it. Whatever you choose, get the palest you can and do a late extract addition to keep the color pale. The oats will add enough gums that I don't think you'll have a heading issue. Thanks for this. Based on your suggestions and what I was able to pick up at my LHBS, here's my recipe which I'm hoping to brew this Sunday: code:
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Oct 18, 2011 19:48
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Where does everybody get their malt extracts?
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Oct 18, 2011 20:23
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Northern Brewer or Midwest Supplies. It's mostly because I live near them and can avoid shipping costs. From my own experience and what other people say, they source quality products.
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Oct 18, 2011 20:42
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Morebeer, on the rare occasions I need any.
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Oct 18, 2011 21:24
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JohnnySmitch posted:So does anyone have a good (extract-based - don't have the equipment for all-grain yet) stout recipe I can get my feet wet with? Basic, and loving awesome, extract dry stout recipe: 6lbs Pilsner LME 1lbs Roast Barley (I prefer English/Belgian as they're more assertive than North American or German varieties) Optional: .5lbs Flaked Barley 30-40 IBUs of hops Any English/American/German ale yeast. (I like WLP007, WLP023, Nottingham dry, Wyeast 1450) Steep the barley in ~140-150* water for 30ish minutes, add the LME, bring to a boil, add your hops, let it rip for 60 mintues. Another addition of hops at ~10 is optional. Top off to about 5.25 gallons.
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Oct 18, 2011 22:13
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indigi posted:Any English/American/German ale yeast. (I like WLP007, WLP023, Nottingham dry, Wyeast 1450) Wyeast Irish Ale is my fave for stouts. Gives a nice clean dry flavor. In a smallish stout it works well to bring out the character of the roastier grains.
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Oct 18, 2011 23:29
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Hey rage saq and other brewers of Belgian styles, how do you carbonate your brews? I have a dubbel (1.072 --> 1.015) that I need to carbonate. I had planned on bottling this batch but now I've found I don't have enough proper Belgian bottles and I'm worried about bottle bombs if I use regular Sam Adams type bottles. I'd like to carbonate to at least 3.5 volumes as per style guidelines. Should I keg and put it under 17 psi or so and then bottle from the keg in a few weeks? I'm not in a hurry to drink it but I need the fermenting space. I'd also rather not buy empty bottles. How do you all carb your Belgians?
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Oct 19, 2011 07:09
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tesilential posted:Hey rage saq and other brewers of Belgian styles, how do you carbonate your brews? 3.5 is pretty high unless its a saison. I normally do all my Belgian beers (including most saisons) at 3.2vol/co2. Which is about 17psi at 38f. More time under co2 isn't going to hurt.
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Oct 19, 2011 07:23
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Dumb newbie question: a recipe I'm looking to make this weekend calls for "1.75# Caramel/Crystal #20 for steeping" Is this the correct grain to buy?
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Oct 19, 2011 19:27
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