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yep.
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Oct 19, 2011 19:33
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Jo3sh posted:Morebeer, on the rare occasions I need any. How in the name of gently caress does one get morebeer's site to load properly on Chrome (or IEtab or IE itself)? Every time I got there I am unable to scroll down the whole page, etc. Shame too, because I'd totally buy stuff from them.
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Oct 19, 2011 19:59
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Not sure what you're doing but I just went there in Chrome and can browse the site fine. Maybe you have an extension that's breaking poo poo?
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Oct 19, 2011 20:05
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Agreed - I checked in Firefox, IE (ew), and even downloaded Chrome and tried that. No issues on any of them - I was able to browse, add items to the cart, and begin the checkout process - and scroll to the bottom of every page I viewed.
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Oct 19, 2011 20:14
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Has anyone had any problems with the in-house regulators that kegconnection sells? Not that it's really going to save me all that much money.
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Oct 19, 2011 20:46
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Prefect Six posted:Has anyone had any problems with the in-house regulators that kegconnection sells? Not that it's really going to save me all that much money. I had heard both good and bad things about them. I just said gently caress it and bought this Micromatic. Lets me run two separate serving pressures and if needed you can daisy chain more regulators onto it.
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Oct 19, 2011 21:08
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Huge_Midget posted:I had heard both good and bad things about them. I just said gently caress it and bought this Micromatic. Lets me run two separate serving pressures and if needed you can daisy chain more regulators onto it. Micromatic supremacy++
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Oct 19, 2011 21:31
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Huge_Midget posted:I had heard both good and bad things about them. I just said gently caress it and bought this Micromatic. Lets me run two separate serving pressures and if needed you can daisy chain more regulators onto it. I have the version of that regulator that kegconnection makes and it hasn't given me any problems in the 2 years I've had it.
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Oct 19, 2011 22:21
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rage-saq posted:Micromatic supremacy++ Thought taprite was the pimpin
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Oct 19, 2011 22:40
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tesilential posted:Thought taprite was the pimpin Taprite is ok, but I could literally beat someone to death with a Micromatic premium regulator and then put it back on and serve some beer.
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Oct 19, 2011 23:33
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Ok I need some quick translations from the Clone Brews ingredients/terminology to that of Brewmaster's Warehouse. Belgian Cara-Munich = Weyermann Cara Munich I? German dark Munich = Gambrinus Dark Munich? German dark crystal = Briess Caramel 60? (The recipe calls for 65, 60 is close) Also... it is an extract recipe, but it calls for sparging after the steeping. Is sparging doable with just some pots and a grain bag?
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Oct 19, 2011 23:53
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beetlo posted:Ok I need some quick translations from the Clone Brews ingredients/terminology to that of Brewmaster's Warehouse. Good enough.
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Oct 20, 2011 00:18
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beetlo posted:Also... it is an extract recipe, but it calls for sparging after the steeping. Is sparging doable with just some pots and a grain bag? You can can soak the grains in another pot and then add it to the mash or you can heat water in a kettle to 170 and pour it over the grains into your mash.
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Oct 20, 2011 00:24
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I always just steeped in 1.5 gallons of water, then when I was done, lifted up the grain bag and slowly poured another gallon of water over it to reach my boil volume (doing partial boil obviously). The GhettoSparge technique.
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Oct 20, 2011 01:25
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Well that works out just great since I'm doing half batches.  Thanks!
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Oct 20, 2011 01:37
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So I'm brewing the oatmeal stout I brewed last year again this weekend. I was happy with it but it wasn't *quite* what I wanted. Right now I only have flaked oats in my recipe and I am wondering what either oat malt or golden naked oats will do in my beer? I read that the commercial brew I am most trying to emulate has a very high oat content (Summit Oatmeal Stout), so I'm wondering if I shouldn't add some oat malt. I can post the recipe when I get home tonight, unfortunately I'm at work right now.
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Oct 20, 2011 14:24
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So I may be upgrading from a 5.5 gal pressure cooker to a 20 gallon stock pot today. Woohoo, headspace here I come! I had originally planned on getting a cheap turkey fryer kit but I might be able to get the aluminum 80qt pot for $40. Now I'm kinda lost on which burner to buy. Ideally it would be cheap and powerful (<$40 if possible) and readily available. Is the bayou turkey fryer kit still my best bet? Someone is selling one with a 36qt pot and empty tank for $45. I can always resell the 36qt or use it for something else.
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Oct 20, 2011 16:15
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Docjowles posted:Not sure what you're doing but I just went there in Chrome and can browse the site fine. Maybe you have an extension that's breaking poo poo? It has something to do with my work proxy. Loaded fine at home.
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Oct 20, 2011 19:37
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Propane brewers I need your help! I bought a 80qt aluminum pot (eaglewear) and am looking for a burner. I found the following burner with tank and extra 9 gal pot for an excellent price ($35). My concern is that my 80qt pot is far wider than the one in the picture. Will I be okay if the big pot rests on the metal meant to hold the original pot in? The big pot definitely won't fit into that spot but it's flat buttoned so I could lay it on top. Will it heat fine? Will the raised metal hold up? Thanks! Edit picture: 
tesilential fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Oct 20, 2011 |
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Oct 20, 2011 19:51
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I've got a conditioning question. My beers usually have a bit of chill haze that goes away after a few weeks in the fridge. Maybe it's my imagination, but I think the beers taste a bit cleaner after the time in the fridge as well. I'm currently brewing a ton for my wedding next year, and I'm trying to figure out if it makes sense to rotate beers through the refrigerator to knock out the chill haze. If I put a beer the refrigerator for two weeks, then take it out and leave it out, will it stay clear? Or will it go back to its pre-conditioned state?
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Oct 20, 2011 20:14
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wafflesnsegways posted:I've got a conditioning question. My beers usually have a bit of chill haze that goes away after a few weeks in the fridge. Maybe it's my imagination, but I think the beers taste a bit cleaner after the time in the fridge as well. I don't think that's chill haze, it sounds like you're causing the yeast to settle out by cold crashing it. It will probably stay clear after you've pulled it out of the fridge, but you're also basically halting the bottle conditioning process.
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Oct 20, 2011 20:19
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tesilential posted:Propane brewers I need your help! I don't think it will work well. I bet the metal holds up... you could put a grate over it for better support - but I don't think it will heat enough. My pot is SS while yours is aluminum so I'm sure there will be some difference, but I used my dads turkey burner (10psi reg) and I couldn't even get it to boil... and it was normal spot on the burner. I think you will need a 20 or even 30psi regulator on your burner to get your 20 gallon pot with even 10 gallons to a boil.
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Oct 21, 2011 01:13
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ifuckedjesus posted:I don't think it will work well. I bet the metal holds up... you could put a grate over it for better support - but I don't think it will heat enough. This depends entirely on the type of burner. Jet burners can handle a whole shitload of pressure and just get hotter, most normal banjo burners will just blow themselves out with higher pressure.
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Oct 21, 2011 01:18
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It also depends on how much volume he's going to boil. If he's just doing 5 gallon batches, it's hard to imagine his preboil volume is more than 7 or 8 gallons. The only way to know 100% for sure is to try it, but obviously that's somewhat difficult with a burner you're buying from a store or something.
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Oct 21, 2011 01:33
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tesilential posted:Edit picture: I'd be more worried about the legs standing up to the extra weight as well as stability than the edges of the raised portion curling or buckling. As to the flame I suppose you could always get a wok ring if you think the extra headspace will disperse too much heat.
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Oct 21, 2011 01:35
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So I'm making a starter for a brewday this weekend and I pull out my smallest flask that will fit 3.5L worth. I set it on the stove and kind of just take in the size of this thing and think I might have some kind of problem....  my stove is too small...
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Oct 21, 2011 06:53
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rage-saq posted:So I'm making a starter for a brewday this weekend and I pull out my smallest flask that will fit 3.5L worth. So, you're saying that you don't have a stirring hotplate? -1 Jamilpoints 
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Oct 21, 2011 07:13
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Hypnolobster posted:So, you're saying that you don't have a stirring hotplate? I do, but it takes forever to cool down I wouldn't be able to put it on before I went to bed tonight.
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Oct 21, 2011 07:21
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Anyone buy bulk hops yet? My two favorite sites, HopsDirect and Freshops.com are still don't have the bulk of their crop in yet. I need cheap hops!
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Oct 21, 2011 08:59
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Hops Direct actually got all their leaves in, they just sold out of all the most coveted varieties on release day. I thought about getting a pound of Simcoe from Freshops that night but it would have cost about the same as retail, so I just got them locally. Gonna be refreshing that site at midnight on Monday to try and get some Citra or Amarillo or something pellets.
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Oct 21, 2011 14:10
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Alright do you guys think I'm missing anything? Currently doing 5 gallon batches but hope to move up to 10 gallon at some point, which at the same time I'd upgrade to another two faucets. code:
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Oct 21, 2011 15:41
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I'll just put my boilerplate advice on CO2 tanks here: If you have not already, check the welding shops and such around you to see if any of them fill the bottle you bring, or just do swaps. If they just do swaps, you might be better off buying a full bottle from them rather than buying the pretty aluminum bottle from kegconnection or whatever. The way to know for sure is to find out what it will cost you both ways - to buy the bottle, have it shipped, and then fill it, as compared to buying the full bottle from a local supplier. Also, if you have space and budget, a 10-pound gas bottle will mean half as many trips to get the bottle filled/swapped.
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Oct 21, 2011 16:13
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Jo3sh posted:I'll just put my boilerplate advice on CO2 tanks here: I've been able to contact two places thus far and both want 85-90 bucks for an exchangeable, 5 pound tank. One place would fill tanks as long as the hydro date was good. I'll keep looking around as none had 10 pound bottles. One place would rent me a 20 pound tank for $55 a year, which to me seems like the way to go unless they have some restriction. It seems asinine that they'd do that but want to charge me $85 plus $11 a fill for a 5 pound tank.
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Oct 21, 2011 16:48
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But much like a propane tank at wherever you buy tanks, once you're in, you're in. That 85-90 dollars would pretty much cover you for life with a tank. edit: i guess actually the best way would be to buy that pretty co2 tank and just know you're not going to keep it Darth Goku Jr fucked around with this message at 17:06 on Oct 21, 2011 |
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Oct 21, 2011 16:53
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renting that 20lb tank for 3 years will be $165. for the same money you can buy the $85 tank outright and refill it 7 times
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Oct 21, 2011 16:59
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I contacted Airgas, some other large welding gas operation sales place, and a specialty beverage dispensing place that sells gas. None of them would sell me a C02 tank. No idea why. Also they all offered to fill any empty tanks I had so long as I already had them. Both my LHBSs will fill tanks as well, but for a slight price markup. I'm in Houston, TX. YMMV
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Oct 21, 2011 18:11
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mewse posted:renting that 20lb tank for 3 years will be $165. for the same money you can buy the $85 tank outright and refill it 7 times Yeah I kind of thought about that after I posted. Airgas was the one that would rent me the 20 pound tank. I'll keep looking.
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Oct 21, 2011 18:17
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digitalhifi posted:I contacted Airgas, some other large welding gas operation sales place, and a specialty beverage dispensing place that sells gas. None of them would sell me a C02 tank. That's weird as hell. There are several welding shops near me that will sell full bottles and swap them when empty. My shop and a beverage supplier near(ish) to me will fill for somewhat reasonable prices as long as the bottles have good hydro dates. I am thinking about moving my gas outside the fridge and moving to a 20-pounder just to have more, but the 10-pounder has been lasting me 10 months or so between fills/swaps. Prefect Six, also look on Craigslist. Sometimes I see bottles come up for $50 or so. And I'm not tryin to say DON'T buy the pretty bottle, just that there may be other solutions. Buying the bottle from kegconnection may make sense just from the pain in the arse factor of getting one elsewhere though. It's really up to you, based on what all the factors are worth to you. Jo3sh fucked around with this message at 18:31 on Oct 21, 2011 |
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Oct 21, 2011 18:28
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I have a giant 20lb tank and it owns. Probably done about 10 kegged batches and the pressure dial hasn't even moved. The only part that sucks is when I want to bring a keg to a party, hauling around this enormous tank is painful.
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Oct 21, 2011 18:39
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Docjowles posted:I have a giant 20lb tank and it owns. Probably done about 10 kegged batches and the pressure dial hasn't even moved. The only part that sucks is when I want to bring a keg to a party, hauling around this enormous tank is painful. Get a 2.5lbs, its always good to have a backup co2 tank.
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Oct 21, 2011 19:05
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