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Cmdr Will Riker posted:I'm not sure if what you're describing is the same as the problem I had with my iMac, but I had a problem with dust getting sucked into my iMac when the fans kicked up under load. I started getting black/grey spots under the glass and it drove me berserk. I took it in and they fixed it under Applecare (coincidentally they eventually replaced it because the graphic card fried itself a few times).
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Oct 18, 2011 16:59
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passionate dongs posted:Hm, well it's good to know they fixed the dust issue. I'm pretty sure its condensation as it only really shows up when my iMac goes from hot to cold really fast. The annoying part is that even though most of it disappears it leaves some small marks behind. Do you have a humidifier or something? I live in a goddamned swamp (DC) and haven't seen condensation.
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Oct 18, 2011 17:57
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Cmdr Will Riker posted:Do you have a humidifier or something? I live in a goddamned swamp (DC) and haven't seen condensation.
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Oct 18, 2011 18:10
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passionate dongs posted:No humidifier, but it's been hot and I live right next to a large body of water.
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Oct 18, 2011 19:18
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Cmdr Will Riker posted:Wow. Well at the bare minimum I would start documenting it with the Applecare phone people because of how crazy Apple is about water damage.  Hello, I just wanted to inform you I'm getting water condensa- [laughing] *click*
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Oct 18, 2011 22:21
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Yeah I don't even know what the gently caress.
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Oct 18, 2011 22:45
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lord funk posted:
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Oct 19, 2011 01:22
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I would get some rice and put it under the intake fans (in a pretty bowl or something) to avoid the inevitable warranty issues it would cause. That water is probably slowly corroding all the metal parts inside already.
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Oct 19, 2011 02:27
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passionate dongs posted:Hm, well it's good to know they fixed the dust issue. I'm pretty sure its condensation as it only really shows up when my iMac goes from hot to cold really fast. The annoying part is that even though most of it disappears it leaves some small marks behind. Same thing happens to my 24" iMac. Apple won't do anything about it. Nothing happens to my 27" iMac though. They are in different rooms and the temperatures don't feel that different. Condensation is definitely the problem. I thought it was dust at first. Mu Zeta fucked around with this message at 02:59 on Oct 19, 2011 |
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Oct 19, 2011 02:38
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Can the dust issue be fixed by taking off the front glass and blowing around in there? I've got minor clotting in the corner of my screen and while it doesn't bother me that much it'd be nice to know that it's fixable when it comes resale time.
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Oct 19, 2011 02:57
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coldplay chiptunes posted:Can the dust issue be fixed by taking off the front glass and blowing around in there? I've got minor clotting in the corner of my screen and while it doesn't bother me that much it'd be nice to know that it's fixable when it comes resale time. Taking off the front glass is absolutely trivial (while taking care to follow the first couple of steps in the ifixit guide for your own peace of mind), however the LCD panel within is so snug and flush that there is no room to "blow around" it without removing it and lifting it out, which is much less trivial due to the weight and gently connected cables. If the condensation thing was happening to me I would absolutely follow the disassembly guide and remove enough parts that I was sure moisture wasn't hiding, then maybe let it air out in a dry place.
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Oct 19, 2011 03:27
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If I want to replace the disc drive of my late-2006 MacBook with a hard drive, can I just use a cheap caddy from eBay? The original OptiBay seems insanely overpriced.
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Oct 19, 2011 08:40
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echobucket posted:I figured I might have to leave it overnight and pick it up the next day... I guess it depends on how busy they are. Aardark posted:If I want to replace the disc drive of my late-2006 MacBook with a hard drive, can I just use a cheap caddy from eBay? The original OptiBay seems insanely overpriced.
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Oct 19, 2011 10:12
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japtor posted:I think System Profiler is just reporting what SMART is saying about the basic state of the drive...which is mostly useless as you have just found out. SMART Utility looks at all the various SMART reported numbers and has its own criteria to determine whether a drive is failing or not. In your case iirc the ones it pointed out as failing were the particularly bad ones, so it was a safe assumption yours was going down. I had a drive that showed failing in some other metric but worked fine for years. I have the same model; although different model caddy (it was around $10 as well). It's been working fine now for about 3-4 months, the only problem is that occasionally when waking from sleep or turning on, the HD drive is missing and can't be mounted. A restart fixes that though. Apart from that, works fine 
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Oct 19, 2011 12:00
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I have a 13" MBP and am moving into an office envionment, instead of working from home. I want to use my laptop all the time and am wondering the best solution. Do I get a stand and plug a second monitor, keyboard and mouse into it? Do I get a Henge Dock and 2 Monitors? (presumably I would need a thunderbolt Monitor for the second which is £££) or is there another solution I am missing? Can i plug 2 normal monitors into the mini-display port? I need to be able to remove my laptop at night as another employee will be sitting there over night.
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Oct 19, 2011 13:30
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You don't need a stand unless your just really want a fancy place to put the MBP, or there's no where else to put it I guess, that's just a matter of space available and wiring. For dual display with the 2011 MBP's there's the Thunderbolt Display, and otherwise this thing...but I don't think I've actually seen that one on sale yet. There's also stuff like the Matrox boxes that split up the single video signal over multiple displays or USB video adapters but those aren't really ideal. If you don't need dual display just clear out a place for the computer and run the cables to there and secure them with tape/zip ties/whatever, leaving some slack for whatever other computers that will be used there.
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Oct 20, 2011 01:29
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Is there any reason why my two day old 13" MBA might be taking an eternity to open iTunes? I'm talking 20 seconds plus here. Could it be the fact that I have home sharing with a large library enabled? If so, why, if iTunes isn't opening straight into it?
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Oct 20, 2011 02:05
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I am looking to get another smaller (96gb+) ssd. Really like the Kingston SSDNow V+100 I got (for about $90 AR), but nothing seems to be popping up. Almost tempted to do a Vertex 2, (120gb for $119 AR), but the horror stories are stopping me...
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Oct 20, 2011 16:41
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Newegg has a shellshocker right now. http://www.newegg.com/Special/ShellShocker.aspx?cm_sp=ShellShocker-_-20-233-191-_-10202011_2 ForceGT 120gb for $155AR. Ps. Thank god newegg has a shellshocker on 8gb of 1066 in about an hour here. 
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Oct 20, 2011 19:57
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Sonic Dude posted:It sounds like you called up and were angry/aggressive, and got stonewalled. Try again but realize you have to make the person on the other end want to give you an exception rather than do the bare minimum and say "nope, it's repair time." Hey, looks like you were right. He called the Customer Relations lady again himself and tried to sound as disappointed and pitiful as possible (being young probably helps) and she finally offered a full refund. Thanks! (And now my Mac Mini, which has been in for hardware replacement twice now, has begun kernel panicking again. Will this ever end?)
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Oct 20, 2011 20:20
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BlackMK4 posted:Newegg has a shellshocker right now. How much RAM do you have allocated for that VM? Knock it down a bit.
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Oct 20, 2011 20:43
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1500MB, it's Windows 7.
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Oct 20, 2011 20:53
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Choadmaster posted:(And now my Mac Mini, which has been in for hardware replacement twice now, has begun kernel panicking again. Will this ever end?) What kind of mini?
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Oct 20, 2011 21:48
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BlackMK4 posted:Newegg has a shellshocker right now. Well I bought the Force GT, let's hope it works well. I also got some 1333 mushkin ram 2x4gb, $34.99 after rebate, cheaper than the shell shocker...
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Oct 20, 2011 21:56
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Isn't the Force GT another SandForce drive waiting to blow up?  (there should be a recent firmware update for it though)
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Oct 21, 2011 00:44
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japtor posted:Isn't the Force GT another SandForce drive waiting to blow up? Yeah this is true, but probably still better than ocz. As far as firmware, I'd have to boot camp windows 7, and not even sure that will work. Let's hope it comes with new firmware.
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Oct 21, 2011 01:36
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The refurbished i5 13" 2011 MBP is now $999, down from $1019 Makes me think that that minor speed bump refresh rumor is legit and likely to happen soon?
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Oct 21, 2011 22:51
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What are my options to give my old 2007 2.2Ghz 2GB RAM MacPro some more life? Do they still even make RAM for this model or even a hard drive? I've filled it completely to the brim and that's after moving my music and old files onto a backup drive. I need to keep it going until I find a job that actually pays me enough for some extra change. I'm still pretty happy with it, but the speed is really starting to get to me, especially when working in CS5.
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Oct 21, 2011 22:55
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cheese eats mouse posted:What are my options to give my old 2007 2.2Ghz 2GB RAM MacPro some more life? Do they still even make RAM for this model or even a hard drive? I've filled it completely to the brim and that's after moving my music and old files onto a backup drive. I need to keep it going until I find a job that actually pays me enough for some extra change. I'm still pretty happy with it, but the speed is really starting to get to me, especially when working in CS5. You could get a big SSD to use as your main boot drive and/or your CS5 scratch drive. RAM isn't a problem; I wasn't quite sure which system you have, but it should take DDR2, with a max of 4GB per slot, or 32GB total. Since most computers now use DDR3, DDR2 will likely be pricier for you if you really want to keep the upgrades going. If you can find some cheap RAM, though, this and a decent SSD will give you a good bit more life if you're otherwise happy with the current performance levels.
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Oct 21, 2011 23:41
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This girl I know has a liquid damaged 2.4ghz C2D 13" MBP and I asked her to bring it over for me to look at. She said that it worked for a few days after it got wet in a backpack until it stopped charging and then obviously died. I tried plugging the thing in and the power adapter light doesn't come on. I opened it up and there was a tiny bit of corrosion on the magsafe board but nothing otherwise or major. I offered $100 for the thing and she turned me down - how much should I be willing to offer on it? I'm assuming I can just swap the magsafe board but who knows. http://www.powerbookmedic.com/MacBook-Pro-13-MagSafe-Board-p-18057.html
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Oct 22, 2011 02:09
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BlackMK4 posted:This girl I know has a liquid damaged 2.4ghz C2D 13" MBP and I asked her to bring it over for me to look at. She said that it worked for a few days after it got wet in a backpack until it stopped charging and then obviously died. I tried plugging the thing in and the power adapter light doesn't come on. Isn't there a flat rate repair fee for MBPs? That's kind of a low ball all things considered, IMO. Actually now that I think about it that "flat rate" might be on the order of $1000 or something.
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Oct 22, 2011 02:29
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Sorry! This is more a software question.
bassguitarhero fucked around with this message at 02:35 on Oct 22, 2011 |
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Oct 22, 2011 02:33
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illcendiary posted:Isn't there a flat rate repair fee for MBPs? That's kind of a low ball all things considered, IMO. Flat rate repair they were offered was $800. 
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Oct 22, 2011 02:39
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Got a thunderbolt cable, hooked up MBP to iMac, works great. Only issue, is logitech keyboard won't do Command - F2 to switch iMac to target display mode. Regular Apple keyboard will. Can I write an applescript or something that will send that key press? I guess even if I do that, how do I undo it then (unless I make a macro -> applescript thing and bind it to a key?)
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Oct 22, 2011 02:48
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:What kind of mini? 2010 model, why? The issue appears to be Bluetooth related (it goes down after my keyboard/mouse start going wonky), but last time they replaced the bluetooth/airport board as well as the logic board and it still seems to be happening. And of course it's not easily reproducible...
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Oct 22, 2011 10:51
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Want a crazy deal on an iMac? Today's your lucky day!  (Sorry to link my SA mart thread twice, but wanted to get some extra visibility after the price cut)
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Oct 22, 2011 22:38
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I have a white macbook, 2009 I think (before the re-design) and the trackpad button is starting to drive me nuts. It seems to kinda stick or take a too uch pressure to push, and makes a stuck clicky sound when it does press. Not sure if there's something under it or what. Is there a way to clean it or check to see if it's hosed up?
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Oct 23, 2011 04:10
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Levitate posted:I have a white macbook, 2009 I think (before the re-design) and the trackpad button is starting to drive me nuts. It seems to kinda stick or take a too uch pressure to push, and makes a stuck clicky sound when it does press. Not sure if there's something under it or what. Is there a way to clean it or check to see if it's hosed up? Does it or the trackpad look raised/pushed up at all? I noticed button troubles, as well as odd trackpad issues when the battery on my Macbooks has swollen. Take a peek and see if that might be causing your problem.
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Oct 23, 2011 04:51
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I have a last generation 5i Macbook Air, and fans seem to constantly be running at audible speeds. Under regular use, with iTunes, a browser, few text editors and a terminal running, CPU usage hovers around 5%, and the CPU temperature hovers around 75C, which is enough to kick the fans up to 5500-6000RPM. Are the fans kicking in sooner than they should (in other words, should they be running audibly at 75C?), or is my machine running hotter than it should? It's just sitting on a desk, with nothing covering the vents. Should I be contacting Apple, or is there something I can do myself? edit: Levitate posted:I have a white macbook, 2009 I think (before the re-design) and the trackpad button is starting to drive me nuts. It seems to kinda stick or take a too uch pressure to push, and makes a stuck clicky sound when it does press. Not sure if there's something under it or what. Is there a way to clean it or check to see if it's hosed up? Cockwhore fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Oct 23, 2011 |
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Oct 23, 2011 18:59
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Glad I decided to wait on buying a MacBook Pro. Apparently a new refresh is coming out imminently.
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Oct 23, 2011 20:41
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