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I checked craigslist/ebay/4 different forums every day for like 3 months before I got mine. It was pretty silly especially when you think of how many are gathering dust in garages of olds.
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Oct 24, 2011 00:04
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blugu64 posted:Those of you with hardtops, how did you find/get them? Craigslist has had 2 in the past month, and neither one was the right color. Don't think any miss matched color would go well with a black car sadly. Craigslist. I wasn't dead-set on buying one but a right-color one popped up 115 miles from me a few months back. I paid $750. The guy had owned it for two years and had it in a garage almost the whole time. There were at least two other guys ready to buy it if I backed down. The paint was moderately oxidized. It turns out the paint isn't in fantastic shape even after buffing it, so I'll probably end up repainting it one of these days.
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Oct 24, 2011 00:16
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I bought mine with the hardtop, and it seemed that probably 40-50% of the adds I saw included a hardtop. Might be a Canada thing though, and I wasn't buying one without it. E: I've got minor rust on the trunklid though - on both sides of the miata emblem the paint is starting to bubble, and it seems like a bit of surface rust around the spoiler. I've poked at it and it feels solid on both sides of the emblem, but I'm more worried about what's under the spoiler. How difficult are they to remove & take a look at? TrueChaos fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Oct 24, 2011 |
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Oct 24, 2011 00:19
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The finish panel is plastic, just needs to be sanded down and repainted. I'd just get a new trunklid.
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Oct 24, 2011 01:29
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destructo posted:The finish panel is plastic, just needs to be sanded down and repainted. I'd just get a new trunklid. Thats probably the best idea. New trunklid can wait until post-winter though.
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Oct 24, 2011 01:32
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Is there a good tutorial for adjusting the convertible top latches (at the windshield)? My passenger side one doesn't lock in place quite right and can be un-latched without the lock button (driver's side is fine). For reference: 2002 Miata.
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Oct 24, 2011 14:58
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On NAs there's just an adjuster nut. You may need a wrench to break it free but I can usually just adjust my latches by hand. There's a little piece of plastic that folds down then you can turn the nut to tighten or loosen the latch. Just unlatch it it and look at it, I bet you'll see what you have to do in about 30 seconds, tops.
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Oct 24, 2011 15:41
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DreamOn13 posted:On NAs there's just an adjuster nut. You may need a wrench to break it free but I can usually just adjust my latches by hand. There's a little piece of plastic that folds down then you can turn the nut to tighten or loosen the latch. Just unlatch it it and look at it, I bet you'll see what you have to do in about 30 seconds, tops. I tried adjusting it before, but it didn't engage the locking mechanism. The latch itself will close the top, but only hand pressure is needed to unlock it.
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Oct 24, 2011 16:32
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You mean you don't have to press the button to flip the handle portion? Doesn't that mean you have to replace that whole latch because the little lock-tit on the button has worn off?
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Oct 24, 2011 19:15
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My Miata has been sitting for a while. Yesterday, I decided to take it for an extended spin. About an hour in, my battery light came on. Because I didn't know what that meant, I figured I should keep driving so that my battery can be fully charged by the alternator. I kept the car running while I looked at what the battery light could mean. I also went to an Autozone and they said the battery reading was low (11.61 volts) and the alternator was only supplying 30A instead of 60-80A. I thanked them and started to head home. Yeah, I ran out of battery power on the interstate and the car died. I got a tow and the car is currently hella far from me. I brought the battery home and am trying to charge it with one of those jump starter/charger things you can get at Wal-Mart. A full battery by itself should be enough to drive about an hour, right? How can I make sure its the alternator?
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Oct 24, 2011 19:19
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It's your alternator. Below 12.5v and the alternator isn't charging poo poo
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Oct 24, 2011 19:44
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Sockington posted:It's your alternator. Below 12.5v and the alternator isn't charging poo poo This man speaks truth. In all likely hood your batter could be junk as well (my experience is not gospel). Enough running around with low charge and you are better off just buying a new battery. A a new battery and dead alternator got me 250 miles with no lights, radio, or ac.
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Oct 24, 2011 20:13
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extreme_accordion posted:This man speaks truth. In all likely hood your batter could be junk as well (my experience is not gospel). Thanks. I had used the car battery while it wasn't running to power a cellphone charger a few times, but since it started up without a hitch, I figured it was fine. The battery light also didn't come on right away, rather after about an hour of driving. I'm charging the battery right now and hope it can make it about 75 miles with the backup power of a jump starter.
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Oct 24, 2011 20:24
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You should just buy a new alternator and replace it on the side of the road.
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Oct 24, 2011 23:19
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Enh, worst case, you can temporarily borrow batteries from other cars if you need to. The only thing special about miata batteries is the reverse posts, and being small in general I guess, but you can shove anything in there backwards/sideways, and tie it down with bungee cables or whatever to try and get the car home.
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Oct 24, 2011 23:48
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I had a bit of a scare today with my NB. Basically, within about a minute of driving off in the morning (it was pretty cool, but not below 5-8C), a rather horrible and loud squealing noise started coming from the engine bay. It was still present in neutral, and the pitch and volume varied with engine speed. No other signs of problems. By the time I came to a stop the noise was gone, and hasn't appeared since. I checked that the belts and everything attached to them was spinning ok, as that was my first idea and it's pretty much the only thing I could do anyway. Any ideas what the hell this could be or how to track it down? Unfortunately I doubt it fixed itself.
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Oct 25, 2011 00:46
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http://www.miataturbo.net/showthread.php?p=787213 Any reason I shouldn't buy this? Be critical please. If I can get $3k for my Sunkist Yellow NA (shouldn't be too hard with the hard top), this is a ~$4k upgrade and has everything I need to do some track days in the spring.
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Oct 25, 2011 04:04
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Blaise posted:Any reason I shouldn't buy this? Be critical please. Black cars are a bitch to keep clean (if you're into clean cars).
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Oct 25, 2011 05:18
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Blaise posted:http://www.miataturbo.net/showthread.php?p=787213 Very nice car. Mine is the one for 6.5k on that site, the black R package. And if that car has never been tracked, I wonder what problems you'd have tracking it. Hopefully the cooling system is up to snuff and ducted and the turbo bolts are inconel. (TLDR) Either way, most of that stuff isn't hard to fix if it does crop up, looks like a well put together car.
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Oct 25, 2011 11:26
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It has been tracked. Big radiator, didn't ask about turbo bolts. Good call.
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Oct 25, 2011 18:06
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Just realize that you are buying somebody's project car (which I think you do). It doesn't necessarily mean that it's going to be the most unreliable car since the dawn of time, but don't be surprised when the PO did some goofy/terrible/dangerous poo poo or when it breaks down.
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Oct 25, 2011 18:08
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Tactical Bonnet posted:You mean you don't have to press the button to flip the handle portion? Doesn't that mean you have to replace that whole latch because the little lock-tit on the button has worn off? Not necessarily. If you grind off a certain bit, you can move the safety button just enough to get it useful again. http://www.miata.net/garage/top_latch/index.html
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Oct 25, 2011 18:12
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Phone posted:Just realize that you are buying somebody's project car (which I think you do). It doesn't necessarily mean that it's going to be the most unreliable car since the dawn of time, but don't be surprised when the PO did some goofy/terrible/dangerous poo poo or when it breaks down. Ha. Obviously. That being said, most of the stuff I'm buying it for is pretty idiot proof (roll bar, butterfly brace, wheels, non-destroyed body, seats/harnesses) or at very least I can tell if it was rigged upon inspection. It would cost me drat near $4000 to get my current NA to be track safe and fix the peeling paint, for which I could just move up to this guy. The turbo kit is sort of a bonus. The guy does seem knowledgeable but hugely ADD when it comes to owning cars (23 in the last 5 years?). He bought it in it's current state, apparently did a few track days, blew the transmission, replaced it, and now he's ready to move on. He has another car up for sale right now (Mustang track car) and google shows several other posts that like to support what he said. Either way I'm moving forward carefully. If I do go to look at it to buy it, I will be doing a very very careful inspection of how things were done.
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Oct 25, 2011 18:27
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Get the manufacture dates for the seats/belts. They both age out. Belts need to be rewebbed and seats need a back brace once they expire. See which transmission he has in it. At 240WHP it's going to be hard on 5 speeds on track. Hopefully Savington will chime in but I think 240WHP is getting close to where you might start breaking motor stuff on a track car. I'm going to keep my car at 200WHP to avoid reliability issues with stock internals/drivetrain. FatCow fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Oct 25, 2011 |
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Oct 25, 2011 19:00
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Stock JDM trans. Guy said he broke it at 12psi that's why he dialed it back to 9psi.
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Oct 25, 2011 19:13
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I just pulled the trigger on an 06 touring with 15k miles today! I got it for $13k which seems a little much but my cavalier was starting to need some major work. I didn't feel like sinking any money into the that piece. First time Miata owner, very excited 
poxin fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Oct 25, 2011 |
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Oct 25, 2011 20:10
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  I did this the other day.
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Oct 26, 2011 00:08
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That makes me feel awful about my tired old paint  How effective are those orbital buffers/polishers anyway? Does it actually refresh the paint, or make it look good for a few weeks until it fades again?
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Oct 26, 2011 00:30
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The Third Man posted:That makes me feel awful about my tired old paint
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Oct 26, 2011 01:30
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My NA certainly does not have a clear coat. The poor thing is faded and even oxidizing in some places, particularly the plastics like the mirrors and around the license plate. I've actually considered buying a proper orbital buffer and pads, but I'm concerned it's not a "permanent" solution. If you give the car a good going-over with an actual cutting pad and polishing compound and following it up properly, will the paint maintain that level of polish for more than a few weeks? Is it even worth it to buy the gear to do it myself, or should I just take it to a professional detailer, assuming it's cost effective?
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Oct 26, 2011 01:35
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Yep, it's "permanent" in the sense that you're good until it oxidizes again, which should definitely be quite some time.
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Oct 26, 2011 01:36
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E: ^^^  The Third Man posted:If you give the car a good going-over with an actual cutting pad and polishing compound and following it up properly, will the paint maintain that level of polish for more than a few weeks?
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Oct 26, 2011 01:43
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Well then I think I've got a project next spring after I teach myself to weld so I can finally fix my stupid loving rusty rocker panel before it eats my whole rear wing. Based on your experience, can either of you guys recommend a good orbital tool, or should I do some research on auto detailing forums or something?
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Oct 26, 2011 01:46
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That porter cable one that starts with a 7 is good, for beginers especially as and isn't going to burn up the paint.
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Oct 26, 2011 01:49
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This is vague, but I remember looking at a decent orbital a year or so back and it was about $150 just for the buffer. Mind you, this was the real deal versus the stuff that will burn a hole through your paint at Harbor Freight. My paint looks loving terrible, but I'm just going to vinyl wrap it over winter. I think it'll be about $300 dollars for the vinyl, applicator glue and some squeegees.
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Oct 26, 2011 01:52
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Nobody noticed my lights Buy your Louis Vuitton vinyl already you cocktease.
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Oct 26, 2011 02:39
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Phone should do a wrap in the AT&T logo
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Oct 26, 2011 13:31
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The Third Man posted:Well then I think I've got a project next spring after I teach myself to weld so I can finally fix my stupid loving rusty rocker panel before it eats my whole rear wing. Based on your experience, can either of you guys recommend a good orbital tool, or should I do some research on auto detailing forums or something? Griot's Garage 6" buffer. It's got a lifetime warranty and the motor is a bit stronger than the porter cable. And slightly cheaper if I remember correctly. Either way, both the porter cable and Griot's machines are great, but they both come with a 6" backing plate, which is huge and a pain to work with. Get a 5" backing plate http://www.autogeek.net/lc43125.html and 5.5" buffing pads After using many different brands/sizes, I recommend these Lake Country 5.5" flat pads. http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html Get 1 Yellow, 2 Orange, and 3 white. The pads get gummed up pretty quick with spent clearcoat/paint/polish as you work, so have a bucket with dish soap mixed up ready to throw the pads in immediately after you're done with the pad. This helps the product from drying onto the pads, your pads will last a long time if you use them like this. TL;DR; Get a 5" velcro backing plate, and 5.5" pads. A good all-around polish is Meguiar's M205. Brain Issues fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Oct 26, 2011 |
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Oct 26, 2011 14:52
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destructo posted:Nobody noticed my lights I did. I'm still trying to find out why. Did you make them look more red when you made them like that? Are they new driving lights?
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Oct 26, 2011 15:03
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His taillights are now the circle(brakelights) instead of the center rectangles. Did you make the centers the brakelights?
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Oct 26, 2011 16:28
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