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Lord Gaga posted:Do you mean 3/8? I hope he does, because jesus christ a 3/4 impact on caliper bolts... If anyone likes to deal with used tool truck brand tools, I've found that this is a good site: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/index.php The classifieds section usually has pretty good stuff. Sex Weirdo fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Oct 28, 2011 |
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Oct 28, 2011 01:19
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RapeWhistle posted:I vote Makita. Another vote here for Makita. I bought the kit with the hammer drill/driver, impact/driver, reciprocating saw and light a year ago to replace my old burnt up DeWalt 14.4 driver and couldn't be happier with it.
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Oct 28, 2011 01:20
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"Lord Gaga posted:Do you mean 3/8? No i mean 3/4, sometimes inch. i work for volvo trucks i should have mentioned that. We use a lot of acetylene as you can probably imagine. Edit: hell, the cap that goes over the hub nut is over 400nm. the hub nut itself is north of 1000. warcake fucked around with this message at 20:10 on Oct 28, 2011 |
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Oct 28, 2011 20:06
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warcake posted:No i mean 3/4, sometimes inch. i work for volvo trucks i should have mentioned that. We use a lot of acetylene as you can probably imagine. goddamn  (1000nm = over 700 foot pounds. Not loving around at all.)
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Oct 29, 2011 01:57
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the spyder posted:Mid range: Dewalt/ Milwaukee I've beaten the ever living gently caress out of the DeWalt tools, and they seem to stand up to some rigorous use. I dropped the 1/2" 18v Hammer Drill from 90ft (onto a concrete floor) and it still works - although the chuck is a bit oval shaped from the fall. Honestly, they seem to be pretty loving tough. Also, when the 2-for-1 battery sale comes on, it's easy to pick up some new batteries when it's time.
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Oct 29, 2011 04:51
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warcake posted:No i mean 3/4, sometimes inch. i work for volvo trucks i should have mentioned that. We use a lot of acetylene as you can probably imagine. Exactly. I have my 3/4" drive for rusted rear end poo poo. 
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Oct 29, 2011 04:53
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Sockington posted:Exactly. I have a 3/4 ratchet just like that, for undoing gearbox filters. Theres a whole heap of nasty stuff that doesn't come undone including prop shaft flange nuts. i sometimes even have to heat up wheel nuts when the herp derp tyre guy does them up till they're red hot. EDIT: drat just looked up the torque for the prop flange nut; Specifications: 1200 ± 200 Nm warcake fucked around with this message at 08:52 on Oct 29, 2011 |
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Oct 29, 2011 08:41
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kastein posted:goddamn You can do that without a hytorc. On a certain wind turbine's hub to nacelle, 2800nm is the goal. I think that ends up being around 480 bar of pressure from the hydraulic pump to hit that torque. If you really arent loving around, look up tensioning bolted joints. Imagine using 1500 bar to employ 725kn of force on a bolt to stretch it a mil. Now imagine component failure. You get death or awesome story, pick one. As to the whole battery impact debate, my makita hits 175nm on a full charge. This makita is a couple years old and used daily. Every Dewalt I've used has blown up in a couple of months and never hit more than 90nm. Impacts are used almost constantly in my work with drills used very rarely. My personal record is 15 minutes destroying a $200 dewalt drill. Dewalt makes lovely homeowner grade poo poo. Poor battery life, poor tool life. Dewalt poo poo has consistently made my work life harder than it should be, gently caress. Even their loving stick lights are flakey pieces of poo poo. (I really hate the dewalt poo poo I've used, though I hear their saws are awesome)
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Oct 29, 2011 09:34
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Terminus Est posted:You can do that without a hytorc. On a certain wind turbine's hub to nacelle, 2800nm is the goal. I think that ends up being around 480 bar of pressure from the hydraulic pump to hit that torque. If you really arent loving around, look up tensioning bolted joints. Imagine using 1500 bar to employ 725kn of force on a bolt to stretch it a mil. Now imagine component failure. You get death or awesome story, pick one. You should see the poo poo they use to keep a steam turbine together. It's some weird rear end poo poo. Edit: These things. 
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Oct 29, 2011 11:51
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Terminus Est posted:(I really hate the dewalt poo poo I've used, though I hear their saws are awesome) I have had similar experiences. But it was years ago and with decidedly homeowner drills.
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Oct 29, 2011 12:11
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Terminus Est posted:You can do that without a hytorc. On a certain wind turbine's hub to nacelle, 2800nm is the goal. I think that ends up being around 480 bar of pressure from the hydraulic pump to hit that torque. If you really arent loving around, look up tensioning bolted joints. Imagine using 1500 bar to employ 725kn of force on a bolt to stretch it a mil. Now imagine component failure. You get death or awesome story, pick one. You think DeWalt is bad? Rigid battery life is even worse. 
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Oct 29, 2011 15:07
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Just a little show and tell about my compressor. I picked up a 1 HP 20 gal. SpeedAire air compressor off Kijiji a few weeks ago. I was getting tired of the ?? Gal., 1/4 HP home made rig that we had picked up for $20.00. Anyway, the guy was asking $130 for it, and it had been up for a while (I'm guessing his spelling compressor wrong didn't help his page views) so I offered him $80 and he took it. Told me he had already replaced it anyway with a bigger unit.  So for $80 I got a half rear end decent compressor and decided that since I was going to keep it for a while I'd do a little restoration on it. I just wanted to share my results with you guys, I'm pretty sure the whole deal turned out well for me. So here's a gallery of start to (almost) finish. http://imgur.com/a/RSA5B
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Oct 30, 2011 02:54
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Very nice job, I should post our restored 1948 Champion- 23cfm @90 psi for $150.
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Oct 30, 2011 03:47
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VAT free day at Machine Mart today, picked up a few bits for home and work. These Rolson ratchet ring spanners were only £22.99, you certainy get what you pay for in terms of a rough and not very fine ratchet mech, but I think after a soaking in oil they might stand up to some abuse. 
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Oct 30, 2011 20:46
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Yeah those tools are all way too clean and shiny. You need to jump those bitches in. I like those ratcheting wrenches too, although sometimes the extra space taken up by the mechanism can get in the way where a normal one would work, and they're harder to find in 6 point.
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Oct 30, 2011 20:58
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Wow I need some extra long screwdrivers like that. I can't count how many times something like those would have been a life saver.
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Oct 30, 2011 21:16
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Lowclock posted:I like those ratcheting wrenches too I have the flexible head and the fixed head sets. I use them a lot, so I keep them handy.  
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Oct 30, 2011 21:21
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How have you been getting on with the cross force ones? They look too tempting to hit with a deadblow mallet for me.
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Oct 30, 2011 22:00
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Terminus Est posted:You can do that without a hytorc. On a certain wind turbine's hub to nacelle, 2800nm is the goal. I think that ends up being around 480 bar of pressure from the hydraulic pump to hit that torque. If you really arent loving around, look up tensioning bolted joints. Imagine using 1500 bar to employ 725kn of force on a bolt to stretch it a mil. Now imagine component failure. You get death or awesome story, pick one. gently caress everything about that! I can do 175nm easily with my hands and a regular breaker bar, why would I buy a 3-digit priced tool that runs out of batteries?
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Oct 31, 2011 01:23
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kastein posted:gently caress everything about that! I can do 175nm easily with my hands and a regular breaker bar, why would I buy a 3-digit priced tool that runs out of batteries? true but you can't create constant impacts at that force and as fast as a 3-digit priced tool that runs out of batteries can. Thats often the difference between breaking something and getting something off cleanly.
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Oct 31, 2011 04:07
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I am stuck trying to make a decision on which socket set to buy. I already have a beefy 1/2" Metric/AF set for garage use. I now have a nice compact 1/2" metric set 8mm-20mm for car use. I have bucketloads of screwdrivers bits for Torx, etc. I have a couple of cheap, but efficient screwdrivers for holding these bits. I want a 1/4" set for the smaller nuts/bolts and torx and the like. I have 4 choices for about the same money: 1) Halfords Professional 36 piece 1/4" Socket Set  http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_177537_langId_-1_categoryId_255215#dtab Pros: Proper screwdriver, wide range of sockets, lifetime guarantee Cons: 1 extension bar, loose screwdriver bits 2) Silverline 633493 38 Piece 1/4 Inch Drive Metric Socket Wrench Set  http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-...d=3QWMBP60XB6ED Pros: Proper Torx sockets Cons: no screwdriver 3) Draper Expert 33611 Metric Chrome Vanadium Socket Set (20pc 1/4" Drive)  http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-Expe...d=3QWMBP60XB6ED Pros: good range of bars, etc Cons: no bits, big box 4) Kamasa 55708 31-Piece Socket Set 1/4-Inch D  http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kamasa-5570...d=3QWMBP60XB6ED Pros: Good bars, range of sockets, proper torx sockets, lifetime guarantee Cons: No screwdriver I honestly cannot decide: at the moment my favourites are the Kamasa and the Silverline. Any thoughts?
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Oct 31, 2011 16:25
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Why don't you buy #2 or #4 and add this for a couple of bucks (quid?)? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-719776-Drive-Spinner-Handle/dp/B000LFVMMY/ref=sr_1_1?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1320077152&sr=1-1
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Oct 31, 2011 17:06
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Uthor posted:Why don't you buy #2 or #4 and add this for a couple of bucks (quid?)? I've got a pair of ratchet screwdriver sets that would do the job (a bit like the following, but fairly strong)  So, Kamasa or Silverline? Kamasa has the deep sockets and lifetime guarantee, but is £5 more expensive. Silverline has a more complete range of sockets in the 4-10mm range (including 4.5, 5.5mm) I don't know either of their reputations for quality - I'd want the better one.
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Oct 31, 2011 17:21
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spog posted:1) Halfords Professional 36 piece 1/4" Socket Set If you're worrying about quality, I started out with the bigger set (the briefcase-sized one) and honestly they've been brilliant. I couldn't be happier with them. Surprising, for Halfords 
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Oct 31, 2011 19:57
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spog posted:I honestly cannot decide: at the moment my favourites are the Kamasa and the Silverline. Any thoughts? If the Kamasa are still made in Japan then they would be my pick, I have a 1/2" set that my Granddad bought new in god knows when and they still feel like luxury to use. Just to complicate things further, have you looked at Teng's range of composite 1/4 sets? I have a set of their 3/8" hex sockets and have used peoples 1/4 ratchets at work and they are all very nice quality. (The plastic lids break off pretty quick though if they do have a failing, It looks like none of the Kamasa sets come in metal boxes any more too which is a shame)  http://www.teng.co.uk/1-by-4-inches-drive-socket-sets_1_313_pl.asp
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Oct 31, 2011 20:58
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meltie posted:If you're worrying about quality, I started out with the bigger set (the briefcase-sized one) and honestly they've been brilliant. I couldn't be happier with them. Surprising, for Halfords I've heard this from other people too: the Halfords Pro stuff seems to get a good rep and the lifetime guarantee actually works. (If you break it, just take it back to the shop and they instantly exchange it) I'm slightly against this particular set as it has the little torx bits and I always find them a bit fiddly, whereas the others have the socket type torx bits. (Plus, my local branch is out of stock for 10 days) Jaxx posted:If the Kamasa are still made in Japan then they would be my pick, I have a 1/2" set that my Granddad bought new in god knows when and they still feel like luxury to use. Your recommendation may just swing it for me. quote:Just to complicate things further, have you looked at Teng's range of composite 1/4 sets? Teng has a very nice reputation and I am tempted: however, they are quite a bit pricier and I don't really need top quality for the small-sized socket set. The new 1/2" Draper set seems good enough quality for 8mm+ and the Hilka 1/2" set in my garage have proven itself over the years to be unbreakable.
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Oct 31, 2011 21:48
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spog posted:I've heard this from other people too: the Halfords Pro stuff seems to get a good rep and the lifetime guarantee actually works. (If you break it, just take it back to the shop and they instantly exchange it) I still recommend their stuff though. The big kits when they're on special are excellent value, and the tools are as nice to use as anyone else's.
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Oct 31, 2011 21:51
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Oh, you Eurogoons with your funny-named tools.  One day I'll own a set of King Dick wrenches.
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Nov 1, 2011 00:11
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What's the situation with aftermarket or 2x batteries for power tool kits? Are they worth the extra cash?
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Nov 1, 2011 00:57
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edit wrong thread
Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 15:40 on Nov 1, 2011 |
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Nov 1, 2011 15:38
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spog posted:I've heard this from other people too: the Halfords Pro stuff seems to get a good rep and the lifetime guarantee actually works. (If you break it, just take it back to the shop and they instantly exchange it) Another vote for the Halfords Pro stuff. If you can wait until they go on sale (which seems to be twice a year or so), it's very affordable as well (I've got the big sockets-only set and the larger version of the set you were looking at - both have been fantastic).
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Nov 1, 2011 17:28
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I'm not big on painting, at least in any proper way, and I figured this seemed like a better place than the stupid questions thread. If I'm painting over paint and not bare metal, should I bother with a coat of primer first, or just scuff it and spray?
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Nov 6, 2011 11:24
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Lowclock posted:I'm not big on painting, at least in any proper way, and I figured this seemed like a better place than the stupid questions thread. If I'm painting over paint and not bare metal, should I bother with a coat of primer first, or just scuff it and spray? How bad is the paint underneath, and will you need to fill in any scratches? Also, are you spray bombing or painting with a gun (you can lay it on MUCH thicker with a gun, so you don't necessarily have to worry quite as much about imperfections). Bottom line, if it's old paint and you dont need to fill anything in and it's close to the right color or the color you are spraying is dark enough to not matter.....just scuff and spray. Otherwise, a rattle can of high build primer left to properly dry, then scuffing that will level out some things for you if necessary.
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Nov 6, 2011 16:32
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what I'm always afraid of is doing something that will result in bubbling/cracking/crazing. I've seen some pretty horrible results when a car that was spraybombed previously gets painted with proper 2-stage paint and the chemicals react poorly with each other.
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Nov 6, 2011 21:13
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Oh I'm not painting panels or anything important, just some old wheels that I got for cheap. I'm not so much concerned with getting a perfect surface finish as much as just keeping the poo poo from flaking off in a week. Think I would be ok with "normal" paint, or should I actually bother with "wheel paint"? Painting them black so I don't have to clean brake dust.
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Nov 6, 2011 21:27
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kastein posted:what I'm always afraid of is doing something that will result in bubbling/cracking/crazing. I've seen some pretty horrible results when a car that was spraybombed previously gets painted with proper 2-stage paint and the chemicals react poorly with each other. This is because the paint underneath wasn't dry yet. And that's being nice about it, because I'm assuming proper surface prep was done first. Yes, certain types of paints are incompatible. But only their wetting agents. If you let it completely dry (could take months depending on that paint) you will have no compatibility issues. Lowclock posted:Oh I'm not painting panels or anything important, just some old wheels that I got for cheap. I'm not so much concerned with getting a perfect surface finish as much as just keeping the poo poo from flaking off in a week. Think I would be ok with "normal" paint, or should I actually bother with "wheel paint"? Painting them black so I don't have to clean brake dust. I painted over a set of Fuchs that I got with a 944 and put them on daily winter driving duty for the last 3 years (probably 20k miles). They are still just fine. I was painting over the original (powdercoat, I believe). All I did was scuff, clean them very well, make sure they were dry and warm enough (getting tougher this time of year), and spray bombed them with black Rustoleum. I think I did 3 light coats. They still look just fine, even after repeated scrubbings with a brush during cleaning.  Yeah, the lug nuts and center caps can use some help. But the wheels themselves, other than being filthy, look just fine with no flaking/gouges/scratches/whatever. They are still shiny when clean.
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Nov 6, 2011 21:40
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Okay that's cool. I'll probably just continue to scuff them up with 220 and then clean and shoot them. Thanks.
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Nov 6, 2011 22:00
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spog posted:4) Kamasa 55708 31-Piece Socket Set 1/4-Inch D I bought this one. It feels very nice and the case is lovely and strong. However, I've just realised something stupid: the 25mm screwdriver bits are all fixed to 1/4" sockets. Lovely and strong - but it means I cannot use any other bits with this kit - such as the specialist 5-point Torx bit I just bought. Being a metric-only kit, it doesn't have a 1/4" hex socket to use with them. D'oh! EDIT: Haha! The 5point security bit set I bought on ebay already includes a 1/4" drive adaptor bit! Yay for not bothering to read the item descriptions! spog fucked around with this message at 16:57 on Nov 7, 2011 |
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Nov 7, 2011 16:48
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I bought my first impact wrench - went for corded over cordless, less than £60, and 450N/m of Land Rover rusty bolt removing torque. Why did I never buy one of these before??!! 1/2" drive, forward and reverse, solid as hell. Comes with a blow-moulded case for storage as well.
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Nov 7, 2011 19:43
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Since last time someone missed out, Chads tool box is having a 40% off Wera Tools sale through Monday http://www.facebook.com/pages/ChadsToolboxcom-Inc/162274440891
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Nov 19, 2011 18:47
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