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kimbo305 posted:If you don't have experience with getting a decent buyer on CL, I would be careful with how much time you've modeled for having to keep both the replacement car and the Sonata. At the very least, see what other like Sonatas are going for on CL. Can you elaborate on what you do to get a decent CL buyer?
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Sep 29, 2011 13:27
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BeastOfExmoor posted:If I recall correctly the warranty only transfers if the car is purchased used from a Hyundai dealer so it would be kinda silly for someone to purchase it off Craigslist. I'd probably keep it. It's too bad the 2010's got redesigned and look 20x better though. Yeah but that would be the buyer's problem, not the seller's problem. If he finds a seller on craigslist he's under no obligation (that I know of anyway) to inform them of that fact.
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Sep 29, 2011 13:46
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I think you'd be better off keeping the Sonata. Since you seem to be set financially there is no point to sell the car so you can pocket an extra $3,000. If you buy a cheaper used car it most likely won't last as long, so you will end up needing a new car a few years earlier. You could pay off your car and save some of your car payments toward purchasing a new car down the road. If you save $200 a month you could have almost $17K in 7 years to buy a new car.
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Sep 30, 2011 17:58
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ZeroAX posted:If you buy a cheaper used car it most likely won't last as long I just want to point out that this is not a true statement. Vehicular longetivity is more reliant on user maintenance than anything. A cheap used car can outlast by far a more expensive new car if it is maintained better.
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Sep 30, 2011 18:21
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Yea just keep the sonota, if you bought it new you still have 60k left on the warranty as far as I can tell. Drive that bitch into the ground! If you're getting the new/different car fever, just keep socking that $300/mo away into a car fund. By the time it's died you'll probably be able to buy something outright. But you already know this, you'd got cash in the bank. You know how it works. This would be a good idea if you were really strapped for cash and needed to learn to live below your means, but I don't think that's the case. Enjoy your nice newish paid off car!
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Oct 10, 2011 21:20
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MrBlandAverage posted:Can you elaborate on what you do to get a decent CL buyer? I generally don't give out my phone number, and use the anonymized email that CL provides. Yes, this will filter out legitimate buyers who aren't tech savvy, but it sure beats the alternative -- doing a 10-minute interview about the car's problems and maintenance records and if I vacuum it every week, only to be asked "will you trade for pitbull puppies?" I don't need that kind of rage in my life. I'd much rather see the same bozo's terribly worded reply email and delete it on the spot. Having them email you lets you control how much work you do as well as the schedule. You can start with the most promising (aka well written, with no upfront sob stories about how they can only give you half your asking price) and ask them for their numbers to call. Usually eager buyers are willing to volunteer that. If none of those pan out, you can work your way down to the less savory replies. Here's a post on how to prep a car for CL by PBCrunch, who flips cars on the side: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3306390&userid=28839&perpage=40&pagenumber=3#post380500568 I'm trying to dig in there for a post he made on how to write the ad itself to get the least bullshit from buyers.
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Oct 10, 2011 21:54
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Hey folks, well my 93 Toyota camry is probably on the fence between legitimately squeezing out more life and being a liability. Even though my dad owns a shop and I do work myself I'm not interested in fixing the suspension or getting new tires anymore. My girlfriends uncle said he'd sell me a ~2003(gf didn't ask age or mileage but she remembers it being early 2000's when he had it) Cadillac CTS for 3100. Not sure of the mileage at the moment but a year or so ago it was given to his mother because he got a new company car...they are well off, he is a nice dude and I'm assuming its around fair condition. I put 175000 miles as an extreme into kbb(they still reliable?) And it was worth like 5200. Of course my dad and I will check it out before o buy, but I actually want to drive this for several years and we both really don't know anything about this model other than the stereotype... expensive, lots of little luxury items to go wrong. So my question is what is the deal with these, it seems like some people think they are pretty reliable and relatively low maintenance, although I don't know what their standards are. Just from my intuition I feel like it will probably be an electronics nightmare as it gets towards a decade in age, but it sounds like such a deal. Am I gonna be paying out the nose for mid grade gas? Thoughts?
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Oct 12, 2011 02:44
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gotly posted:Current car loan: ~$4,500.
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Oct 16, 2011 19:44
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I've got a 2008 Ford that I'm paying $280 a month on it's five year loan. I'm tired of the thing. I've got about $4500 left on the loan or so. I also have about $4000 saved up in a "buy a new car down payment" slush fund. Is it more practical to simply use that money to pay off the loan before trying to turn the vehicle in and get something new -- or is it more worth it to keep it the way it is, and hope on vehicle trade-in I make out better and can also put down that $4000 towards the new purchase. KBB says my car is "most likely" worth about $7000 or so at trade-in to the dealer.
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Oct 26, 2011 23:50
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Untagged posted:I've got a 2008 Ford that I'm paying $280 a month on it's five year loan. I'm tired of the thing. I've got about $4500 left on the loan or so. I also have about $4000 saved up in a "buy a new car down payment" slush fund. Is it more practical to simply use that money to pay off the loan before trying to turn the vehicle in and get something new -- or is it more worth it to keep it the way it is, and hope on vehicle trade-in I make out better and can also put down that $4000 towards the new purchase. KBB says my car is "most likely" worth about $7000 or so at trade-in to the dealer. If you pay your loan off and sell your car yourself, you will get more money out of it than if you traded it in. Trade-in value is *always* lower than private party value. It's more effort to sell it yourself, though, so your time and effort and possibly comfort level should be taken into consideration.
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Oct 26, 2011 23:55
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CornHolio posted:Trade-in value is *always* lower than private party value. Very true. One common trick is to offer a great price on your trade in (e.g. We'll give you $5,000 for your clunker that couldn't get $3,000 on craigslist). This seems like such a sweet deal, but all they are doing is massively overcharging you on the price of the new car.
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Oct 27, 2011 00:15
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I got my first job out of college this month and I'm making pretty good money for coming out of college, ~45k starting out. I graduated without any student loans, however I don't have any credit yet. I also don't have much saved up yet. I'm currently driving a 95 toyota tercel with about 140,000 miles on it. Its been running pretty well, but it randomly seems jump back and forth kinda like its stalling out when its in first and second gear. This just started happening recently, and I'm finally starting to make money. I also just moved to Chicago, and my tercel doesn't do well in the winter time, it can't handle for poo poo in snow. I also plan on going back to STL a decent amount to visit the GF/family/friends and I just am really tired of driving it. My current plan is to get a credit card and start building some credit and save up for a down payment for maybe 6 or more months then putting it towards a used car thats about maybe 3-4 years and in the 12-15K range? I was thinking maybe a Chevy Cruze, Ford Focus, Elantra, something along those lines. I really don't know how feasible that is or not.
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Oct 27, 2011 01:30
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Buy a cheap second set of wheels and put some real snow tires and for less than $500 you'll turn the Tercel into a pretty drat solid snow car. The tires matter FAR more than the car for snow, old and new cars alike. That said, I don't blame you for wanting to get a new car, and 12-15k is IMO a pretty good price range that gives you a lot of really good options for pretty much any style of car. Without a solid credit history you may not be able to secure a really-low interest rate loan, but you will still probably be able to get somewhere like a credit union to write one for you at a tolerable interest rate after 6-12 months of a credit card - especially if your credit card and other accounts are also through them.* My only cautions are be sure you feel confident in your continued employment and be sure to build up a good, cushy emergency liquid cash savings before taking on any loan, like 6+ months worth (mine is 12 months). Otherwise, if you save up for a decent downpayment (3-5k on a 12-15k car, at least), you have no other debt, and I assume otherwise live within your means, then you can probably pretty easily afford it at 45k/yr. My first job was 48k/yr and I spent about 17k (after taxes and fees) on a car, putting down 4k, and the payments on a 4-year note @3.9% are about $300/mo, far from impoverishing (especially so now at 80k). My car loan is at a lower rate than my student loans and I'm hugely overpaying the minimum on them, and after they're gone (7k left, down from 22k!) I'm going to do the same with my car loan (11k left). * Speaking of credit unions and as an also recent college grad (2 years ago), switching all my finances to a credit union after graduation has been the best decisions I ever made. In the adult world where you will have to deal with financial institutions for more than just a checking account, being part of a good credit union makes life sooo much easier than any of the big banks. Even if you end up with a reward card issued by a big bank for daily spending, having your "permanent" credit card (, and checking/savings, and loans) with a credit union is really handy, and makes for a much better backup/emergency/foreign transaction card with the lower interest rates and fees. /soapbox Guinness fucked around with this message at 03:16 on Oct 27, 2011 |
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Oct 27, 2011 03:04
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It's been said before, but I'll say it again: Always negotiate price on a new or used car at the dealership first. Only after you are satisfied with the final price, do you broach the subjects of trade-ins and financing. If a salesman is unwilling to negotiate price without getting you to say whether you'll finance or not, and/or if you have a trade-in, then you should be willing to walk away. There are other dealerships and other cars out there that will meet your needs.
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Oct 27, 2011 19:42
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Leperflesh posted:It's been said before, but I'll say it again: Has anyone mentioned truecar.com yet? It's basically an instant "lets start negotiations at invoice pricing" button for new-car shopping. Went to look at a new 370z base this past weekend. Got the price where I wanted it, but as soon as I mentioned I had a possible trade in the sales dude immediately started trying to sell me a NISMO for an extra 10k to make up the cost. Ended up walking away...
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Oct 27, 2011 23:55
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Truecar, while great for new cars, isn't nearly as helpful in the used market. For 12-15k, you're going to get a HELL of a lot more car for your money buying a few years used than you would new. There's only a handful of new cars available under 15k, and even then only in poverty-spec. For instance, my completely loaded, maintained w/records, one owner, 60k miles, 2004 BMW 330Ci cost me less than 15k before taxes. There's nothing new under 30k, let alone 15k, that even begins to compare. Not that I'm recommending a BMW if you're looking for a cheap, reliable, "fill it and forget" type of car, because it's not (though not as expensive as you might imagine...), but I'm a big car guy and know full well what I'm dealing with. But it is indicative of how quickly and how much new cars depreciate, and how much of a deal you can get buying a lightly used car that is still essentially new, regardless of brand.
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Oct 28, 2011 00:57
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Don't know if this is the place, but early next year I'm looking at getting a $4500 auto loan from Coastal Federal Credit Union to buy a hatchback/wagon of some sort because I need a second car. I'm still currently in school and it's a money in->money out situation, but I'm going to be able to work more hours next semester just because it's my final semester and I only need 9 more credit hours. Does anybody have experience with a low value auto loan for a used car? Expected terms/rate? Thanks.
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Nov 7, 2011 05:17
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Phone posted:Don't know if this is the place, but early next year I'm looking at getting a $4500 auto loan from Coastal Federal Credit Union to buy a hatchback/wagon of some sort because I need a second car. I'm still currently in school and it's a money in->money out situation, but I'm going to be able to work more hours next semester just because it's my final semester and I only need 9 more credit hours. It's been a decade since I did it, but I bought a 1992 Supra with low miles that was about 10 years old at the time. I financed it through my credit union, it was a $5,500 loan and they made me go with a 2-year loan due to the amount. The APR was under 5%, and I paid it back in about 9 months. I was glad that I had that option, because when I moved 500-miles away and got a BoA account, they quoted me some astronomical number in fees and APR because they "don't like to do car loans."
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Nov 7, 2011 14:36
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Phone fucked around with this message at 08:09 on Nov 5, 2017 |
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Nov 7, 2011 23:30
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Okay, I have a serious problem. My clutch master cylinder is shot. My clutch pedal goes straight to the floor and stays there. I started on Friday, happened once on Saturday, once on Sunday, and today I barely made it home. I don't think the car will make it to work and back (100 miles round trip). I have two cars and we need to cars. Wife needs to take my daughter to school, home from school, and then needs to go to work and get home from work. I really don't think I can use her car this week but I'll try. Assuming that's impossible, my choices are: 1. Take it to a shop. Try to get a rental car through them, otherwise get rental car. They will probably have to order the parts. 2. Order the parts, regular shipping, and get a rental car. 3. Order the parts, next-day-air, and get a rental car for a couple of days less. 4. Order the parts and not go to work for a few days. 5. ??? Which would be the most economical? My cost for parts is a little under $200 if I replace everything. edit: economy car from enterprise would be $142 for tomorrow through Saturday. edit edit: Looks like my mom can take the kids to school and the wife to work, so I might have this sorted out. CornHolio fucked around with this message at 00:50 on Nov 8, 2011 |
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Nov 8, 2011 00:37
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How rare is the car. They will prob just buy the parts from a dealer or local store.
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Nov 8, 2011 03:28
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I was searching for a used car at a dealership and was negotiating a price with the salesman. This is one of the largest dealerships in our city, so I think they aren't super sleazy for a dealership. While we were talking about the price, the salesman had a sheet of paper with the cost breakdown as we haggled on the final price. At one point he asked me to sign the paper while he went to talk to his "finance guy" about what they could do for me. During the price haggling, he also asked me for my credit card and took it for a while. I didn't think much of it at the time but now it really bothers me. He also took my drivers license when I took the car for a test drive which I think is normal. I'm assuming he took my credit card and signature to lock me in a contract - the price haggling went back and forth a few times and eventually I declined one of their offers. Had I accepted, would I have entered a contract with them ? I think I learned my lesson and that's to not give them my credit card and signature unless I really know what's going on - but I'm still not sure why they took that information from me.
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Nov 8, 2011 06:17
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rt_hat posted:I was searching for a used car at a dealership and was negotiating a price with the salesman. This is one of the largest dealerships in our city, so I think they aren't super sleazy for a dealership. The real lesson is to not negotiate with agents on the lot. Follow the internet protocol to get the best possible deal instead.
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Nov 8, 2011 07:26
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Don Lapre posted:How rare is the car. They will prob just buy the parts from a dealer or local store. Car isn't rare or anything, but I would expect only the dealership to have it in stock. Parts were $170 with third-day shipping. I'm borrowing my grandparent's car for Wed-Fri, so all in all things worked out pretty well. My question still kind of pertains, though. Rental car + DIY or taking it to a shop that provides a car (ie the dealership). Which is usually the more economical route?
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Nov 8, 2011 17:01
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Depends on how bad the $rape is for labor, really. Rental + DIY would probably be cheaper for almost all repairs, since anything cheap enough labor wise to make renting a shitbox cost more, should be something you can hammer out very quickly.
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Nov 8, 2011 17:41
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Clearly the best option is to have a spare car on hand at all times.
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Nov 8, 2011 18:35
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CornHolio posted:Car isn't rare or anything, but I would expect only the dealership to have it in stock. Well not paying labor is obviously more economical. And you should be able to find a shitbox rental for $20/day or so off priceline.
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Nov 8, 2011 20:04
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Don Lapre posted:Well not paying labor is obviously more economical. And you should be able to find a shitbox rental for $20/day or so off priceline. I did not know that. According to their website, a Chevy Aveo would cost me about $140 for four days through enterprise.
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Nov 8, 2011 20:31
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CornHolio posted:I did not know that. According to their website, a Chevy Aveo would cost me about $140 for four days through enterprise. Vroomroomvroom.com found a aveo in my area (nashville) for $114 for 4 days. Also why do you need 4 days? How long does the repair take? If you know the dates you are going to do it then use the name your price option on priceline. Don Lapre fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Nov 8, 2011 |
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Nov 8, 2011 22:03
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Well I got into a bit of a pickle, thanks to my brother. I had everything planned out. I had the Volvo yesterday, and I was going to return it to my wife's work, get a ride to my mom's, and borrow my grandmother's '92 Dodge Spirit for the week. They have another car and rarely drive this one so it was going to work out very well. I was leaving work yesterday (so about an hour away from my mom's house) when I get a frantic call from my mother. Apparently my brother's car is on fire. She doesn't know what to do. So I call him, and no the car isn't actually on fire, but it's smoking really bad and he's afraid to drive it. I have him check the oil (fine), coolant (fine) and look for any signs of leaks (none). He says it smells really bad but doesn't know what burning coolant smells like (my first thought). He says it never overheated. I go vote, and am on my way to drop the Volvo off when I get another call: my brother needs the Spirit. I have to find a rental car. Note: the time was 5:30, and rental places close at 6. Apparently my uncle (who is very good with cars) looked at it and determined he blew his head gasket. So I race to Enterprise, who only have one vehicle, a Ford Escape. Lime loving green. I don't have a choice - I need a car and don't have time to go anywhere else. I tell them I'll probably need it through Saturday (parts should arrive Thursday or Friday) and it's going to cost $180 for four days. So I leave there and head over to my mother's house. My brother's '98 Accord is parked on the street. I definitely want to look at it. I poke around, check the oil (sure enough, fine), check the coolant (sure enough, fine), look for anything obvious. I start the car and see white smoke (coolant) coming from a very localized area of the engine. I move the upper radiator hose, and discover a pinhole leak shooting coolant straight onto the exhaust manifold. Engine seems to be running fine. No. It cannot be this easy. I run to Autozone and buy a roll of high-temp all-purpose tape, go back, and bandage the hose up. No more leak. Take the car out for an extended test drive, and it runs fine. Engine sure doesn't feel like it's losing compression anywhere. So I'm going to try to return the Green Machine today so I'm only out $45ish, and likely add replacing my brother's upper radiator hose this weekend. And I definitely want him to keep an eye on it, in case it is more than a coolant leak, but I see nothing that points to a head gasket gone sour. Moral of the story: Don't trust other people's diagnosis. (Though I was really between a rock and a hard place - if I didn't get a rental car right then and there I would have been completely screwed)
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Nov 9, 2011 15:41
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I have a 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer that I intended to run with until it fell apart on me. Unfortunately an accident in September forced my hand - it was a 3-car accident but one of the other insurance companies rightfully accepted fault. Their assessor valued my car at $3500 cdn - a quick check on some Canadian Blue Book sites said my car was close to this value. I think it's higher than what I thought (things like the heater knob broke off, one of the power locks doesn't work, etc...) but the engine works well and I took it in regularly for routine maintenance. The accident dented the whole front-passenger side of my car along with minor dents and scrapes along both the left and right sides of the car. The wheel well is also pushed in so that I do have to nurse the car over bumps. The assessor did a preliminary look and he guessed repairs would be $3800 for the body work (replace bumper, paneling along the wheel well, etc) but did not look underneath the car. I'm guessing there might be some unpleasantness under there. The insurance company offered me two options : 1- take $3500 for the car 2- take $1800 for repairs I'm going with option 1, because I'm not sure that I can get the car back to normal condition with $1800 (I can live with the scrapes but I am afraid of the damage on the front side of the car). I'm looking at used/new cars now. I have $15,000 in cash (including the $3500 from the insurance company) that I can use for a new/used car. I'm not in a huge rush (I can get drives to work and home, aside from the hassle). So here comes the part I'm not sure of - should I go with a $15,000 used car or do I go with a brand-new car up to $20,000 ? I was looking at local 2008/2009 VW Rabbits (or Golfs), Mitsubishi Lancers, or Subaru Imprezas which are advertised at around $15,000 (optimisticcally 1,000-2,000 less but I don't know how well I can negotiate). I was hoping for something under 60,000 km. The plus side with a brand-new car aside from being brand-new is some of the dealerships are offering 0% financing and warranty for the first few years. On a side-track I also saw a 2008 Volvo C30 with 54,854km and asking $20,000. Does this seem like a smart thing to buy ? My gut tells me that I shouldn't even be considering spending $20,000 on a soon to be 4-year-old car, especially one that takes premium gas. The Blue Book estimate on it was $18,000. Anyway I'm trying not to fall in love with any cars (so I can walk away from the salesman if I don't think he is going low enough). Also independent of the cost of the car, I was thinking of financing the whole cost for as long as possible (4-8 years) either through my bank (they offered 5%) or dealership (depending on who has the best rate. I went to my bank and a credit union for rates) but putting $10,000 down and paying more than the monthly/biweekly payment to finish it off earlier. I have a pretty stable job (I'm 3 years in at the local power company as an engineer, there were four people on my team, one person is leaving for greener pastures at the end of the month, our team lead is eligible for retirement in May 2012. I think the only way I'll lose my job is if I do something really really stupid) My monthly in/out fixed cash flow looks something like this (not including things like food, entertainment, spending money, gas, etc... ) : code:- manual transmission (I got a 5 minute tutorial in a dealership lot but I definitely want to own one even more now) - hatchback (80% weight) - a sunroof would be nice (60% weight). rt_hat fucked around with this message at 06:45 on Nov 12, 2011 |
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Nov 12, 2011 06:41
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rt_hat posted:I'm looking at used/new cars now. I have $15,000 in cash (including the $3500 from the insurance company) that I can use for a new/used car. I'm not in a huge rush (I can get drives to work and home, aside from the hassle). It sounds like you're planning on committing most of the money you have for getting a replacement car. If having the nice car is important to you, then by all means go for it, but compare what those dollars could do elsewhere (retire 1 year earlier, go on a nice european vacation, x extra sqft on a house you might buy someday). There isn't a right or wrong answer since you can afford it, but make sure the money is going where it's important to you.
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Nov 12, 2011 23:50
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rt_hat posted:things like the heater knob broke off My mom has the exact same car, and her knob broke off too.
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Nov 13, 2011 21:32
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FISHMANPET posted:My mom has the exact same car, and her knob broke off too. It happened to me a few months after I bought the car. I took the unit on the dash apart and the temperature control part on the dash looked okay. The problem goes down deep to where the driver's feet is. You can still adjust the temperature by reaching down where the driver's right foot is and there's a raindrop-shaped piece of plastic that you can push or pull to get hot or cold. Turning the knob pulls some cables in either direction to turn that raindrop-shaped piece of plastic so you can apply more force by hand than that knob can.
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Nov 13, 2011 22:54
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rt_hat posted:I'm not concerned about resale value, once again, I plan on keeping the car until it falls apart. The only things I would like in my future car are : Nice job saving a good chunk of change! Since you're going to "keep something until it falls apart", it tells me you're looking less for an emotional relationship with a car, and more for a driving appliance that's going to be reliable and last you a long time. I tend to stay away from VWs for not particular good reason other than in the early 00s they tended to have poo poo reliability. I've heard they've gotten better, but Audis and VWs have always scared the poo poo out of me with their anecdotal lovely track record. Since you're looking for a hatchback, I'd point you in the direction of a Mazda 3S. They seem to be one of the best all-around compact cars when you factor in driving enjoyment, reliability, economy, and practicality. It's not going to get as good MPG as a civic/corolla driving appliance but they make up for it in the "fun to drive" area. 3 owners seems to be fiercely loyal. Imprezzas also seem to be very reliable aside from the head gasket issues, though at least around here they have a high premium associated with them. I don't know if it's been resolved in newer models but the subaru specialists in my town replace head gaskets on all cars they are going to sell regardless of the year. From what I read I guess the design of the boxer engine allows the hot engine oil to sit in the cylinders when you turn the car off and eventually they will break down the head gasket material, where as a traditional engine the oil would fall back down to the oil pan thanks to gravity. If it weren't for your hatch requirement I'd stick with the typical Civic/Accord/Camry recommendation. I bought a bare-bones '01 civic a few months back and I really like it.
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Nov 15, 2011 15:10
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I would also highly recommend the Mazda3 as a fun to drive, practical, affordable, reliable hatchback. Like was already mentioned, their gas mileage used to be somewhat subpar, but the new generation with the new SkyActiv engine has significantly improved those numbers while still retaining the good, fun driving characteristics that make the 3 stand out from the competition. The 2.0L SkyActiv engine in the newer 3s puts up a very respectable 27/38 with the 6-speed manual, while the older 2.5L in the s trim levels is only rated 20/28 while only producing 10 more horsepower. If I were shopping for a Mazda3 outside of the Mazdaspeed3, I'd lean pretty heavily toward the newer ones with the SkyActiv engine as it's Mazda's new generation of much more efficient motors (while still producing good power) and is what they'll be putting in all of their new cars in the future in different variants. I think a brand new 3i Grand Touring (i.e., most all of the options) stickers around 23k, so realistically the price is pretty close to 20k before taxes. If you plan on owning it for a long time and driving it into the ground, I think it's worth buying a new one since used prices in that market segment are so high right now. Guinness fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Nov 15, 2011 |
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Nov 15, 2011 19:05
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I find it a bit weird that they are offering you $1800 to repair the car, but you aren't sure that will fix it. Have you taken it to a body shop or two? $1800 is bodywork frankly isn't very much. If the car is still fine mechanically I think having it repaired is a lot better option then blowing a lot of money on a new car. Can you take the $3500 to "total" the car then buy it back from the insurance company? Is that what the $1800 figure is? Even if you have to put in some of your own money I think you should more completely explore having the car repaired. Go around to body shops and tell them it will be a "cash deal" and maybe even tell them you only have $1800 to spend. You'd be surprised how variable pricing is on bodywork.
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Nov 17, 2011 17:56
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n8r posted:I find it a bit weird that they are offering you $1800 to repair the car, but you aren't sure that will fix it. Have you taken it to a body shop or two? $1800 is bodywork frankly isn't very much. If the car is still fine mechanically I think having it repaired is a lot better option then blowing a lot of money on a new car. Can you take the $3500 to "total" the car then buy it back from the insurance company? Is that what the $1800 figure is? Even if you have to put in some of your own money I think you should more completely explore having the car repaired. Go around to body shops and tell them it will be a "cash deal" and maybe even tell them you only have $1800 to spend. You'd be surprised how variable pricing is on bodywork. Especially if you get parts replaced from used vehicles, and don't get them repainted. You might have mismatched colors on the car, but it saves a lot of money if you don't really care. I did this once in an accident where I was 25% at fault, so I only got 75% of the repair money. The 75% covered doing that.
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Dec 1, 2011 00:39
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I live in San Francisco and I am starting new job in cupertino at the beginning of the year. This is about a 50 mile drive all highway. I havent owned a car in 6 years so its been awhile. But I have about 10k saved right now in my savings account and I was referred to this "broker" that people seem to love in the city. He showed me this car. http://www.mycarguy-sf.com/2004-honda-civic-hybrid.html Seems like a great deal maybe. But I am worried about the batteries in it. Either way I am just confused on what I should do financially... Should I blow my entire savings on a car? Should I get a car loan from a credit union and put down a 5k downpayment on something? How does that work, do I find a car first then go to the bank or do I go to the bank first? I am thinking what I should do is get a loan and pay about half of the car in cash. Then maybe the loan will help my credit? Or should I get a beater for 5k and call it a day? Some things to consider, the smaller the car the better, parking in the city sucks. And since it is in the city I cant care if it gets banged up from people parking next to it. That being said maybe I shouldn't get an expensive car, YET I need a car that reliable to commute. Ugh everything feels like a catch 22.
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Dec 5, 2011 21:15
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Just get a $5k car and call it a day. Looks like there are a number of slightly older civics in that price range on CL. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/2737367567.html http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ctd/2725665237.html http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ctd/2710855794.html http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ctd/2712180887.html
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Dec 5, 2011 21:28
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