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Is there a coupon of some sort for Harbor Freight? I'm heading over there for my first time ( ) and want to load up as much as the wife will let me.
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Nov 19, 2011 20:51
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Sockington posted:Is there a coupon of some sort for Harbor Freight? I'm heading over there for my first time ( Latest flyers with active sales: http://www.harborfreight.com/retail-flyer Take the flyer(s) with you, they often don't mark them down in the store, and you need the ad to get the ad price.
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Nov 19, 2011 21:03
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Oh man, I wish I could go to Harbor Freight for the first time again. It's like stepping in to Toys R Us for the first time.
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Nov 19, 2011 22:10
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mod sassinator posted:Oh man, I wish I could go to Harbor Freight for the first time again. It's like stepping in to Toys R Us for the first time. I have to be real careful when I'm in there. Seriously, it's glorious. I could spend thousands.
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Nov 19, 2011 22:37
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mod sassinator posted:Oh man, I wish I could go to Harbor Freight for the first time again. It's like stepping in to Toys R Us for the first time.
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Nov 19, 2011 22:41
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grover posted:I remember my first time; went in for a $15 metric ratchet wrench set, and left $300 poorer... The Snap On van is worse, he comes to your work! And god forbid you say I can't afford that. Because you can pay weekly! Noooooooo. My paycheck! I have been stood there before with a 1/2 ratchet in my hand, £100 quid lighter, still in the dust of the van driving away with my trousers fully round my ankles.
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Nov 20, 2011 00:11
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grover posted:I remember my first time; went in for a $15 metric ratchet wrench set, and left $300 poorer... Went in to browse, left with a $200 rolling work cart/tool box. I may have printed off the ad and had it in my pocket - but I didn't tell the wife that
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Nov 20, 2011 03:03
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Sockington posted:Went in to browse, left with a $200 rolling work cart/tool box. I've got a campy line to use on customers at the outdoor power store I work in. I'll be lazing about behind the parts counter when someone comes in, ask if they need any help today. If they say, "no, just looking", i'll say something like "that can be dangerous/expensive, better look out". It usually is. gently caress yeah I need a 1012 CFM leaf blower!
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Nov 20, 2011 03:27
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Speaking of HF, Popular Mechanics tested a bunch of power drills in their recent issue and this sucker http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-38-pro-lithium-ion-cordless-drilldriver-68126.html Took first place so I snagged one up for my dad. It's on sale for $50, down to $40 with the coupon.
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Nov 20, 2011 04:11
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^ I'm fairly certain that one is a ripoff of this Milwaukee drill: http://www.milwaukeetool.com/tools/cordless-tools/m12-cordless-system/m12-cordless-lithium-ion-3-8-inch-drill-driver/2410-22 which typically retails north of $150. It not as blatant as some of their air tools (a friend of mine has a $40 HF impact wrench that is a 1:1 copy of a $350 IR impact wrench that he also has) but the design cues are very similar. I've been eying that one for a while now, might have to pull the trigger with this month's sale price. Geoj fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Nov 20, 2011 |
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Nov 20, 2011 23:52
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Harbor Freight has these for $100 off. Well worth it. 
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Nov 21, 2011 01:18
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With how huge that 3/4" ratchet is, it really makes the toolbox look small.
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Nov 21, 2011 01:34
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Sockington posted:Harbor Freight has these for $100 off. Well worth it. $200 - $100 = $100? I know the 20% coupon can be used but is there another? I do prefer the painted red rather than the powder coated ~maroon/red.
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Nov 21, 2011 07:42
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Sockington posted:Harbor Freight has these for $100 off. Well worth it. I bought one of those about 2 weeks ago. It is a great cart, just as good as some I have seen for twice the price. The only thing I didn't like about it was that some of the carriage bolts were messed up so I just replaced them all with some good stainless steel fasteners.
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Nov 21, 2011 18:47
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Gear Wrench 6 piece spline wrench set is on sale at Advance Auto Parts for 14.99 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...%7CGRP2078_____ It is a pretty awesome little set for the price. I've used mine every day for the past two weeks and I really like it so far.
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Nov 22, 2011 18:35
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Duke Thompson posted:I bought one of those about 2 weeks ago. It is a great cart, just as good as some I have seen for twice the price. The only thing I didn't like about it was that some of the carriage bolts were messed up so I just replaced them all with some good stainless steel fasteners. Some of my carriage bolts were hosed too, but they came with enough extra ones to get the job done (I also didn't add the side tray and pushing handle since I'm keeping mine stationary).
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Nov 22, 2011 18:49
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Aceshighxxx posted:Gear Wrench 6 piece spline wrench set is on sale at Advance Auto Parts for 14.99 Seconding that these are loving awesome, and if you don't own any but use wrenches even sometimes you should buy these.
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Nov 22, 2011 19:57
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How often do you run into spline drive nuts and bolts?
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Nov 22, 2011 20:01
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oxbrain posted:How often do you run into spline drive nuts and bolts? You can use them on any bolts.
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Nov 22, 2011 20:48
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They work on square heads which means you can use them with socket extensions to drive sockets. 
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Nov 22, 2011 21:33
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Splizwarf posted:They work on square heads which means you can use them with socket extensions to drive sockets. Where do you find a socket extension with two male ends?
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Nov 23, 2011 01:56
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Aceshighxxx posted:You can use them on any bolts. Badly. They're like a leatherman, never the right tool for the job, but they'll do in a pinch.
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Nov 23, 2011 02:54
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agreed, if I wanted to chew up the head on every bolt I had to put some torque into, I'd have one tool in my toolbox... a set of vise grips.
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Nov 23, 2011 02:58
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eddiewalker posted:Where do you find a socket extension with two male ends? Harbor Freight.
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Nov 23, 2011 03:23
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reddeathdrinker posted:I bought my first impact wrench - went for corded over cordless, less than £60, and 450N/m of Land Rover rusty bolt removing torque. Why did I never buy one of these before??!! 1/2" drive, forward and reverse, solid as hell. Comes with a blow-moulded case for storage as well. I have something similar, but I regret not going air instead. I could've gotten a small compressor for the price of the impact wrench, and then a air tool kit with impact, air rachet, die grinder, and other goodies for another 50 bucks. Working with an electric impact just isn't the same... 
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Nov 23, 2011 21:24
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Can you really get a compressor big enough to drive an impact wrench worth a poo poo, plus an air impact wrench, for less than an electric? My lovely Craftsman compressor cost me at least $100 and there's no way it would drive an impact.
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Nov 23, 2011 22:55
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You should be able to run an impact fine with most lovely compressors as long as the tank is full. It will just take forever to refill and be loud as hell.
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Nov 23, 2011 23:05
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Nothing more annoying than having to wait for your tank to refill so that you can get that last suspension bolt out. I always end up impatient and trying again way too soon - TA TA TA TA TA.. TA... TA.....  .
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Nov 23, 2011 23:54
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So my dad has a set of drillbits. The larger bits have grooves cut into the shaft that the drill grips really well. The small bits have round shafts and tend to spin in the chuck (keyless) when the going gets tough. Is there a good set of bits, say 1/2" and smaller, that won't spin? This would be used in wood. I was thinking of getting him some that are attached to hexagonal bases like screwdriver bits, but I'm worried about them breaking at the base.
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Nov 24, 2011 02:27
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You could get the bits with a 1/4 hex shank. But I would blame it on operator error before spending money on bits. Either you are not chucking tight enough, or you are putting way too much pressure on the bit. Drilling isn't just pushing, you need to have the right speed, cutting fluid, and decent sharp bits meant for the material. Back out every now and then, clean the bit and put some fluid in there. When you are through the material you will know you are doing it right when you don't push through the last bit and then catch the bit and try to break your wrist. When you are doing really deep holes, back out and let the bit cool off. Heat kills drills.
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Nov 24, 2011 03:05
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PeaceFrog posted:sharp bits If he's spinning them, it's too late for any of the rest of your advice. Get them sharpened, start following PeaceFrog's advice, and you'll be fine. You are trying to find a solution to a symptom, not the real problem.
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Nov 24, 2011 03:56
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I'll by that the bits could be sharpened, but I honestly think it's the chuck. Haven't had this problem so bad with other drills we've had in the past.
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Nov 24, 2011 06:27
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I have never seen a drill that won't hold a bit. Unless you have the worlds shittiest drill and you have been nursing it to the point of wearout, the chuck will hold if tightened and the operator is drilling correctly. Other than 1/4 hex bits I haven't seen small bits with the grooves. You don't need them if using the tool right. If your drill is sloppy enough to not hold tight, replace the fucker, otherwise learn how to use it. Motronic is right, I didn't stress sharp bits enough. I hope this time I stressed sharp operator enough. Edit: Enco is an alternative to MSC, I look at Enco as the industrial version of Harbor Fright. PeaceFrog fucked around with this message at 07:15 on Nov 24, 2011 |
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Nov 24, 2011 06:57
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Buying drills aimed at the metalworking industry makes a seriously huge difference. I have run probably 30 different makes of drills and harbor freight, home depot, etc. all sell just absolutely poo poo drills. The best set I have found locally was a set of rigid cobalt bits at home depot. They are just ground so absolutely bad its amazing. They rub like crazy and are just absolute crap compared to ghuring, clevland twist drill, and other makes of machinist oriented drills. Even MSC's import brand are better than most name brands that they sell at the hardware store except, again, for that rigid set I bought a few years ago and have used both in mills/lathes and in electric drills.
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Nov 24, 2011 07:06
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I've never had a titanium nitride set last for poo poo, no matter where I bought it or what brand name was attached. The black oxide coated Milwaukee HSS drills I've bought recently have put up to my abuse quite nicely though, I stuffed a 3/4" one through a 1" piece of steel plate at something like 500rpm with no lube and it didn't even blink. The cryo-treated bits I've tried are pretty OK, but I prefer the black oxide ones.
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Nov 24, 2011 07:53
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Lord Gaga posted:Buying drills aimed at the metalworking industry makes a seriously huge difference. I have run probably 30 different makes of drills and harbor freight, home depot, etc. all sell just absolutely poo poo drills. The best set I have found locally was a set of rigid cobalt bits at home depot. They are just ground so absolutely bad its amazing. They rub like crazy and are just absolute crap compared to ghuring, clevland twist drill, and other makes of machinist oriented drills. Even MSC's import brand are better than most name brands that they sell at the hardware store except, again, for that rigid set I bought a few years ago and have used both in mills/lathes and in electric drills. Cobalt is where the action is. I do a lot of aluminium and stainless work and no other drill bit will stand up to it. Using the drill properly (not putting 200% of your weight on it while drilling) goes a long way keeping the bits sharp. quote:The larger bits have grooves cut into the shaft that the drill grips really well Peacefrog - on the smooth end of the drill bit that gets placed into the drill, there are three flat spots around the circumference that run down the length of the drill bit (on the non-drilling portion of the bit). These flat spots sit better inside the chuck to prevent slipping.
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Nov 24, 2011 08:14
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kastein posted:I've never had a titanium nitride set last for poo poo, no matter where I bought it or what brand name was attached. The black oxide coated Milwaukee HSS drills I've bought recently have put up to my abuse quite nicely though, I stuffed a 3/4" one through a 1" piece of steel plate at something like 500rpm with no lube and it didn't even blink. That's a pretty good speed for mild steel. I typically run HSS drills of unknown quality at 100SFM in mild steel and 250SFM in aluminum and turn it up from there although I always run coolant as this is in a CNC mill. That'd be about 500 RPM for a 3/4 drill. TiN drills of good quality (not harbor freight) will last a good bit longer than bright finish (uncoated) drills and can be run at significantly higher speeds. Black oxide is actually a very poor rust proofing coating which does not affect hardness or drill speed. TiAlN is the black coating that is supposed to be the next step up from TiN. I dont have a lot of experience with it as usually theyre price comparable to carbide or if its a coated carbide its too pricey for the shop I was at. Cobalt drills are actually HSS drills with some cobalt added. Its a bit of a misnomer as IIRC Carbide drills actually have more cobalt in them. Either way they do rock and with the absolute poo poo that is sold as drills at hardware stores, I'd highly recommend getting a cobalt set. Lord Gaga fucked around with this message at 09:19 on Nov 24, 2011 |
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Nov 24, 2011 09:17
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Thanks for this info about drill bits. I was automatically wary of the huge amounts of advertisement on Lowe's/HD drill bit sets. Good to know that was well founded. Are the black oxide bits just phosphated steel? If so, they would need a good oil soaking to even have any rust prevention properties.
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Nov 24, 2011 16:44
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What's a decent metric ratchet and socket set that can stand up to normal automotive maintenance/breaker bar type stuff? Harbor Freight or Craftsman good enough? SnapOn is a bit out of my price range.
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Nov 24, 2011 17:00
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Any compressor deals spotted?
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Nov 24, 2011 18:52
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