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14 INCH DICK TURBO posted:I just found this hammer and I don't care that it appears to be more for home demo and not automotive, nor do I care enough to decide if it's gimmicky or not because loving look at it. Bah. You really wanna make a wall wish it'd never been built (or take apart a car using only muscle power), get yourself a set of irons: You can also open a beer bottle on either the Halligan or the axe, and not be viewed as some kind of ninny who needs a special bottle opener. (Non-ninny beer opening: hook cap ridges on any hard flat surface -- in this case, hold the axe between your knees or something so it's upright, and use the top -- and slap the wrist of the bottle-holding hand with the other hand. Warning: will put a dent in drat near every finish known to man, so don't try it on the edge of a friend's fancy table/countertop.) Lord Gaga posted:I cant think of a reason to ever do stick. But yeah, if you're not getting paid and there's an alternative available stick welding is pretty crap. Edit: it gets less crap as the amperage/margin of error increases. My brother learned on structural steel, then got a little 70A plug-in stick buzzbox for a personal project and couldn't get it to work; I learned on the little buzzbox, and can make beautiful beads with flux-core wire. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 09:55 on Nov 26, 2011 |
# ? Nov 26, 2011 09:47 |
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# ? Mar 28, 2024 15:43 |
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yeah, I really wish I got to play with 1" thick plate and I-beam structural steel with one of those massive jobsite/pipeliner welding rigs that is about the size of a small SUV and comes with its own generator and crane lifting hooks. Man, I'd kill for that. I think the slag they leave behind is thicker than the frame on my car. As for bottle openers... I usually use a utility knife. Put the blade under the edge of the cap and forcefully cut up and away from the bottle. If I don't have one handy I'll use one of the ridges on the folding end of my leatherman.
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# ? Nov 26, 2011 17:32 |
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Delivery McGee posted:Warning: will put a dent in drat near every finish known to man, so don't try it on the edge of a friend's fancy table/countertop.
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# ? Nov 26, 2011 20:26 |
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I want to pick up a wet/dry vacuum this weekend to use around my house, clean out my car, etc. I'm having a hard time determining what volume I should get, but according to consumer reports you have to get something with a capacity > 10 gallons to score very well. The highest rated models on CR are made by Rigid and sold at Home Depot. I was looking at the Shop Vac brand at Ace Hardware yesterday, but I wasn't able to come to any real conclusion. Motor peak horse power is also related to capacity. With the smaller models making somewhere between 3-4 HP and the large capacity models making 5.5-6+ HP. Do any of you guys have recommendations for brands/models for general use?
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# ? Nov 26, 2011 23:18 |
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You should get a Stihl SE122. Holy poo poo. The SE, we've decided, stands for Sucking Equipment. Crazy vacuum compared to Ridgid models and super quiet. At a sales demo, we used one to suck up D-cell batteries and a gallon of water. The batteries "ZZZZZZ"ed! their way through the hose, the pitcher of water disappeared as fast as you could stuff the nozzle in. Well worth the price.
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# ? Nov 27, 2011 02:08 |
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MetaJew posted:I want to pick up a wet/dry vacuum this weekend to use around my house, clean out my car, etc. This one is on sale for $30 at Truevalue, compared to $70 at Walmart. http://www.truevalue.com/catalog/product.jsp?productId=4108&parentCategoryId=2502&categoryId=2525&subCategoryId=774&type=product&cid=gooshop When I got mine it was blue, but it looks like the same unit I've been using the heck out of for the last few years.
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# ? Nov 27, 2011 02:30 |
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I really want this motherfucker from Ridgid. Some parts like the 7 feet of wand extensions are not shown in the photo. It's a Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 06:37 on Nov 27, 2011 |
# ? Nov 27, 2011 04:21 |
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Skyssx posted:You should get a Stihl SE122. Holy poo poo. The SE, we've decided, stands for Sucking Equipment. Crazy vacuum compared to Ridgid models and super quiet. At a sales demo, we used one to suck up D-cell batteries and a gallon of water. The batteries "ZZZZZZ"ed! their way through the hose, the pitcher of water disappeared as fast as you could stuff the nozzle in. Well worth the price. I want a Festool vac anyway.
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# ? Nov 27, 2011 04:54 |
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Holyshit. Yeah, $400 is out of my budget. I bought an $80 Rigid 12 gallon model. I think it will meet my needs. That box shaped one looks pretty nifty though. Edit: I may head back to Home Depot and check out that box, but 16 gallons is pretty drat huge. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Nov 27, 2011 |
# ? Nov 27, 2011 05:00 |
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e: I think there's only one size, and it's 4.5 gallons, derp
Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 06:36 on Nov 27, 2011 |
# ? Nov 27, 2011 05:40 |
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I'm only finding the 4.5 gallon model. Are you sure they make a larger version?
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# ? Nov 27, 2011 05:49 |
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yeah if you grab a Ridgid vac I would get one from home depot. They have for the most part honored the lifetime service agreement on my ridgid drill and my dad is on his third ridgid vac, they always replaced them for him no questions asked.
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# ? Nov 27, 2011 06:16 |
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MetaJew posted:I'm only finding the 4.5 gallon model. Are you sure they make a larger version? Oh. You're correct; sorry about that, the reason for my error is gently caress you Amazon.com. They list the volume of that one as "16 gallons". Now I'm slightly less jazzed about it. My bad.
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# ? Nov 27, 2011 06:34 |
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CatBus posted:I ordered one of these this morning, and thought someone else here might be interested in the deal (4 piece Milwaukee M18 reconditioned tool set: $279 shipped): blindjoe posted:I also hope it doesn't suck as I bought one as well. I have the impact driver from that set. It's a motherfucking tiny god. Strongly recommend picking up this bit set to go with it. I'm really tempted to get something like this and do lugnuts with it too. Fucker is rated to 1400 in-lb, which is just shy of 120 ft-lb.
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# ? Nov 27, 2011 06:56 |
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Man, I was playing with the 72 tooth ratchets at Harbor Freight today and they are really tempting me.
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# ? Nov 27, 2011 08:48 |
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MetaJew posted:Motor peak horse power is also related to capacity. With the smaller models making somewhere between 3-4 HP and the large capacity models making 5.5-6+ HP. Looks like you already bought a vac but I just wanted to point out that "peak horse power" ratings can safely be ignored as marketing nonsense. They are using the inrush current to calculate a HP value, but it is meaningless in terms of actual motor power. This guy did a pretty good write up here: http://www.kevinsbrady.net/motors.pdf
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# ? Nov 28, 2011 00:32 |
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Just picked up a 2-ton floor jack and a set of two 2-ton jackstands for ~$60 at the local ricer/tuner/bro/parts shop and all-around Autozone clone T. Hansen. Here's to hoping I don't die a squishy death underneath my car or otherwise contribute to the horrible mechanical failures thread. Amusingly enough, a rival store sells the exact same jack in a different color with a 1-ton rating Cheapass tools. Gotta love 'em.
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# ? Nov 29, 2011 10:29 |
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Carl Ras has a niiiice Bahco jack on sale I've been eying all week. I'd rather have the BH11500 model, which only lifts 1.5 ton but has a longer reach. I've had the tHansen jack + stands for years, haven't killed me yet. Protip, make sure to hammer in the little tabs on the stands, otherwise the black part will fall out all the time.
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# ? Nov 29, 2011 11:15 |
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bolind posted:Carl Ras has a niiiice Bahco jack on sale I've been eying all week. I'd rather have the BH11500 model, which only lifts 1.5 ton but has a longer reach. That looks like a pretty nice jack, the low minimum height is definitely a plus. Luckily my car has the ground clearance of a Unimog, so I can use any old jack. Tabs have been hammered. Highly satisfying little job.
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# ? Nov 29, 2011 11:42 |
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I was recently given an older SK torque wrench (20 - 150 ft/lbs). When I say older, the last time it was used was when my father rebuilt the engine in his Bronco 20 years ago. It was stored at the lowest torque setting since it was last used. My worry is that it has slipped out of calibration due to age. Should I worry about this? If so, is there a good place I could send it off to for re-calibration?
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# ? Dec 11, 2011 00:36 |
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First off, it's been stored correctly at the lowest torque setting. If you're luckly, you just need to massage it a bit at various torque settings, working up to the highest setting. There shouldn't really be anything that could slip out of adjustment, as long as it was stored at the lowest torque setting and isn't all rusty, the spring inside should be as good as the day it was made.
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# ? Dec 11, 2011 00:45 |
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KozmoNaut posted:First off, it's been stored correctly at the lowest torque setting. If you're luckly, you just need to massage it a bit at various torque settings, working up to the highest setting. Ah, that's good to hear. Thanks! Figured I'd ask before I started using it and shearing bolts, or leaving bolts loose and losing bits on the highway.
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# ? Dec 11, 2011 00:51 |
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tonynaia posted:Ah, that's good to hear. Thanks! Figured I'd ask before I started using it and shearing bolts, or leaving bolts loose and losing bits on the highway. I'd still get it checked out before using it for any critical stuff like engine work, but for wheel nuts, it should be fine.
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# ? Dec 11, 2011 00:53 |
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KozmoNaut posted:First off, it's been stored correctly at the lowest torque setting. That is not relevant, no matter how many people think it is so. A click type torque wrench pushes a ball into a detent under spring pressure. The higher the pressure, the harder it is to slip the ball out of the detent. So unless someone wants to argue that springs wear from be compressed rather than use (which is a popular misconception on its own, leading to the "always unload your magazines" type "wisdom"), there is no reason to unload a torque wrench when storing it. In fact, it can be argued that it wears the spring more and causes it to lose calibration faster when you always unload it. I don't care what your grandpaw said. This is early college level materials science. Take one apart and you'll see and understand.
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# ? Dec 11, 2011 01:37 |
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Nevermind.
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# ? Dec 11, 2011 02:26 |
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Motronic posted:That is not relevant, no matter how many people think it is so. So what's best practice, or doesn't it matter what you do? All three of my different makes of torque wrenches say to leave them loaded just a bit above the minimum for storage so that's what I've been doing..
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# ? Dec 11, 2011 02:37 |
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pim01 posted:So what's best practice, or doesn't it matter what you do? All three of my different makes of torque wrenches say to leave them loaded just a bit above the minimum for storage so that's what I've been doing.. I do nothing. They stay where I last left them. If you do choose to dial them down, DEFINITELY leave them above minimum. In fact, never even go to minimum....it won't be accurate there and the ball might fall out of the detent if you're out of calibration far enough.
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# ? Dec 11, 2011 02:43 |
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Motronic posted:That is not relevant, no matter how many people think it is so. IIRC my cheap Harbor Freight wrench said to store it at ~20 ft lbs (a little bit above minimum). Maybe they're just being cautious but I figure it can't hurt.
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# ? Dec 11, 2011 02:50 |
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mod sassinator posted:IIRC my cheap Harbor Freight wrench said to store it at ~20 ft lbs (a little bit above minimum). Maybe they're just being cautious but I figure it can't hurt. Just like most firearms manufacturers say to store mags unloaded. Simply because you design/spec/assemble things and write a manual doesn't mean you know anything about how springs wear. It is quite a persistent misconception. But if it were true, suspension springs would sag from sitting. All of those barn finds would be laying on their bump stops but they aren't because it doesn't work that way. Your springs sag because you drive on lovely roads and take corners and generally do things to make them move. A spring in a torque wrench is no different than that, and wears for the same reasons.
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# ? Dec 11, 2011 03:47 |
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Motronic posted:Your springs sag because you drive on lovely roads and take corners and generally do things to make them move. What causes tits to sag?
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# ? Dec 11, 2011 03:50 |
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Whenever I use my Dad's pancake compressor, I take the time to purge the system of air when I'm finished. It usually sits unused for months at a time and I figure better safe than sorry. Is this prudent, or just a waste of time, or somehow detrimental? FWIW, the tank never gets above 120 psi.
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# ? Dec 11, 2011 08:08 |
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Always drain compressors when you're done, if only to make sure you get the moisture out of the tank. I set my torque wrench to whatever setting means it fits in the blow molded case. It won't fit if it's set to 175 ft-lbs, which is where I usually use it (wheel bearing/axle nut torque on a jeep.)
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# ? Dec 11, 2011 09:35 |
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PeaceFrog posted:What causes tits to sag? The other thing with springs that always seems to get people is that coil springs are actually torsion bars...
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# ? Dec 11, 2011 13:13 |
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Motronic is right in that spring cycling is what wears springs. It's an extremely persistent myth. I would still calibrate a torque wrench that had been sitting for decades. The Army requires all torque wrenches go to cal every 600 days unless they're being used on aircraft, then it's 180 days.
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# ? Dec 11, 2011 14:08 |
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Skyssx posted:Motronic is right in that spring cycling is what wears springs. It's an extremely persistent myth. I would still calibrate a torque wrench that had been sitting for decades. The Army requires all torque wrenches go to cal every 600 days unless they're being used on aircraft, then it's 180 days. There's a few parts in a torque wrench besides the spring, and furthermore the spring is dynamically loaded. Regular calibration is in order here. That aside, both you and Motronic are correct. No static force will wear springs down.
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# ? Dec 11, 2011 16:29 |
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Motronic posted:That is not relevant, no matter how many people think it is so. grover fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Dec 11, 2011 |
# ? Dec 11, 2011 20:57 |
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grover posted:You may want to review your textbooks for "creep" which is a very real process that causes slow plastic deformation of metals, even at stresses well within the elastic deformation range. It's more pronounced at higher temparatures, but still occurs at room temp. You DO want to store those torque wrenches unloaded! I agree that creep is a real thing. I do not agree that it makes any practical difference on the types of springs stored at the temperatures we are discussing here. It's much too late for me to go running numbers to demonstrate this, but I have in the past and have drawn my conclusion from that.
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# ? Dec 12, 2011 01:32 |
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What's the best HF spray gun for auto paint? I'm gonna tarp off my carport and paint my mr2 with rustoleum using the instructions on instructables.com
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# ? Dec 12, 2011 23:12 |
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Uthor posted:Whenever I use my Dad's pancake compressor, I take the time to purge the system of air when I'm finished. It usually sits unused for months at a time and I figure better safe than sorry. Is this prudent, or just a waste of time, or somehow detrimental? FWIW, the tank never gets above 120 psi. It's not usually good for a compressor to be completely drained for long periods. Some valve designs require pressure in the tank to keep them closed. Sitting open can let corrosion build up on the seats and valves and lead to leaks. Definitely let it cool down and drain any water out of it. If you want you can drain it down to say 10psi so if it gets bashed it won't explode quite as much.
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# ? Dec 12, 2011 23:52 |
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# ? Mar 28, 2024 15:43 |
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Ugh. This is all reminding me that it's been a few months since i've looked at my compressor. Better than the 20 or so years it had been serviced prior to that. A: Leaks oil everywhere. You can watch a cleaned block get filthy as oil weeps from the head/block interface. B: No line driers at all. C: 1950's pump and motor of indeterminate origin. D: Grandpa welded the tank himself. Last time, I drained about two gallons of chocolate milk out of the bottom. Filled the crank case with 30wt Rotella. Checked the crank case again a month ago, empty. Filled it again. It's probably all in the air tank again. Plus the water. Also, the motor really does not like firing up below freezing. The brushes had a big stonking arc along with the starting whine for about 30 seconds until stuff heated up enough to operate normally. Need to fix everything in the spring.
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# ? Dec 13, 2011 00:41 |