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I've been about the use of Juniper berries and the twigs being used as a filter/false bottom sort of situation. Is there a reason why black birch or maple twigs couldn't be used? Would they attribute any (good) flavors?
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Nov 28, 2011 03:28
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I'm on the lookout for a nice propane burner, a weldless bulkhead with valve and diptube, weldless sightglass, and other miscellaneous stuff so please post any brew related Cyber Monday sales here please!
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Nov 28, 2011 06:16
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mewse posted:- there's a calculation for a certain amount of mash water needed per pound of grain (i think it's 2 quarts per pound?) Ah yeah, I forgot about that section! I remember reading that a long time ago. I knew I was missing something when I was trying to remember what I should read over before brewing! indigi posted:Sure you could, go get that sample asap Welp, wish I'd checked in this thread sooner to see your post. There's activity going on in the fermenter now, so I'm afraid to crack it open to grab my sample. Lesson learned, grab a little more than I think I need. tesilential posted:Run your grains through the mill twice from now on. That alone gets me around 70-75%. Additionally you can rinse the grain bag with some hot water to wash out some more sugar. You could also raise the temp to 165* or so before removing the grains. No kidding?! Crush the grain twice eh? I'll definitely do that next time I'm at the LHBS. I debated doing a mashout but decided not to. The BIAB how-to guide didn't mention doing one. But I guess I should've listed to my hunch instead. To ferment, I ended up buying new yeast. The starter never took off. But I'm guessing that's because of how old the stuff was. If you're looking for a burner, mine served me well this last brew time. I got it cheap at Sam's Club. The only annoying thing is that there's a 20 minute timer attached to the burner. So you just gotta remember to reset it before it times out and cuts the flame.
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Nov 28, 2011 07:02
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i'm in a tiny apt so i'm still thinking about doing my first mini-mash
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Dolemite posted:Ah yeah, I forgot about that section! I remember reading that a long time ago. I knew I was missing something when I was trying to remember what I should read over before brewing! He's referring to traditional mashing methods, although I think they aim more for 1.2-1.5 qts water per pound of grain. With BIAB you use your total boil volume + extra water to account for grain absorption. I use a little less to allow for a "mini-sparge" of the grain bag. I think grain absorption is like .1 quarts per pound or something. I seem to lose about 1 gallon of water to my roughly 10 # grists, after the squeeze. Which burner do you have? I have a cheap high pressure (3" venturi design) jet burner that I haven't even used yet. Now that I think about it, it will probably work fine for a 7 or 8 gallon boil and I should at least try it first. I still need a better wort chiller and weldless kettle fittings though.
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Nov 28, 2011 08:16
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Retemnav posted:Stove-top brewing: canning pot or stock pot? I did a test brew on the stove awhile back where I had all 4 burners going with 4 separate pots. I found the enamel canning pot was the easiest to manage and boiled the most wort compared with some thicker stock pots. The test batch was to see how low I could go on equipment costs to get my brother brewing. It went really well but I boiled off a ton of liquid.
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Nov 28, 2011 08:50
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That makes sense because stainless steel is actually a pretty horrific conductor of heat, as far as metals go. If you do go stainless it really pays to get a pot with some form of heat spreader in the base.
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Nov 28, 2011 15:13
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CaptBubba posted:Did that one you tried from me inspire you? I still have 3 of your beers in my fridge which give me the stink eye every time I open the door Yes, among others. I had a pretty good one down at Gordon Biersch in Myrtle Beach over the summer and had put that 'style' on my list. 'Been waiting for the temps to drop down low enough so I wouldn't have to work so hard to keep it cool. Also cooked an APA Saturday. The APA is sitting outside my cool chamber fermenting at 64, the Schwarzbier in the chamber at 52. In unrelated news I just tapped the cider I naturally fermented from last year. Nov 20th last year I purchased 12 Gallons of Stayman Winesap pressed cider from a local orchard at a LHBS sponsored "cider day". Half I pitched S-04 into and half I put an air lock on and left in the corner of the basement for a year. I did dump about 2# of honey in after about a month and racked once in the Feb/March time frame. Other that that it sat. The natural fermented down all the way to 0.996. I thought cider I made with champagne yeast was dry, this stuff is all new kinds of dry. It's quite good, has real apple flavor and more importantly a pronounced apple aroma. But it's so dry it's hard to get more than a pint down. I'm considering back sweetening a bit, but it's also a 9.9% ABV so I'm not sure I need to promote having more than one pint. Maybe I'll just make a simple sugar for parties and stick it in a squirt bottle on top of the kegerator. I do think the natural ferment produced a cleaner cider that IMO has better flavors than the same stuff I pitched yeast.
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Nov 28, 2011 15:13
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I'm horrible about keeping the last few bottles of anything around because "when I drink the last bottle then it will all be gone"
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tonedef131 posted:Just for future reference De Koninck doesn't actually use any munich malt in their mash, it's made up entirely of pilsner and vienna malts. I made a really pleasant Belgian Ale last year when that yeast was out with vienna and German pale malt, some brown sugar and hallertau hops. I just brewed up another one yesterday since that yeast is out again but this time swapped the pale out for pilsner, stuck to an all-malt grain bill and used Saaz, so it should be a lot more along the lines of De Koninck. Every time I make a Belgian ale of this sort I end up using more and more Vienna, I think I'll likely just do 100% vienna from now on and perhaps even try a decoction schedule similar to what Palm uses. Is that yeast out again? That's fantastic. I'll have to do one up right this time. A decoction with all Vienna sounds tasty as hell, but I'm not sure which way I'm going to go yet.
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Nov 28, 2011 16:37
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tesilential posted:I'm on the lookout for a nice propane burner, a weldless bulkhead with valve and diptube, weldless sightglass, and other miscellaneous stuff so please post any brew related Cyber Monday sales here please! Austin Homebrew still has 3-piece stainless ball valves on sale for 14.99. Pretty much the cheapest you're going to find that nice of a valve.
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Nov 28, 2011 17:00
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porkface posted:I did a test brew on the stove awhile back where I had all 4 burners going with 4 separate pots. Interesting, guess I'm gonna order a canning pot.
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Nov 28, 2011 17:08
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tesilential posted:He's referring to traditional mashing methods, although I think they aim more for 1.2-1.5 qts water per pound of grain. With BIAB you use your total boil volume + extra water to account for grain absorption. I use a little less to allow for a "mini-sparge" of the grain bag. Yeah, I think by the time I was done mashing and squeezing as much wort out of the bag as I could, I still lost maybe .75 to a full gallon of water. Annoying since I don't know how much I really lost. I only had a mark on my stirring spoon for 5 gallons of water. I started with a certain amount of water above the mark and when I was done, I managed to be below the mark. I figure that swing means I lost about a gallon. I'll probably mark a few extra marks onto the spoon so I know better. Regarding burners, I have the Backyard Classic Professional 36 Qt. Turkey Fryer (Link) and it seems to work pretty well. I was surprised how quickly I could heat up an entire 5 gallon batch of wort to boiling temps! Probably didn't take more than 10-20 minutes. In comparison, I've spent close to 45 minutes or an hour trying to heat 2-3 gallons to a boil on my lovely gas stove.
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Nov 28, 2011 17:39
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clutchpuck posted:
Post-tapping report: Really good stuff. Missed the flavor I was shooting for; wanted more crystal flavor. But it was good enough to drink like 8 pints. Next time maybe less/no pilsner, more crystal. Gravity was fairly close, next batch I'm going to keep some LME around to bump it up if I come out too low. It's small enough to drink all night long without getting drunk but big enough to taste like a proper beer. Could have used a few more weeks conditioning; first gallon was pretty cloudy. Yeah I know it's a wheat but I wanted a clear wheat, and it did clear up nicely after 10 pints or so. All in all, for my first self-written all-grain recipe, this batch came out as good as I could hope for. Very happy I went all-grain and got a kegging setup.
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Nov 28, 2011 18:09
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hey has anyone had monk's cafe flemish sour ale before? it's stellar. wondering if anyone knows anything about how its made?
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Nov 28, 2011 18:57
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Home Brew Club Members: I'm running into a wall with finding a place to meet. A lot of the places (restaurants mostly) are saying it would violate their liquor license to bring in outside alcohol for consumption. Has anyone else run into this and have any tips on how to deal with it? I think the place we typically meet is just letting us bring in stuff at risk of their license (which doesn't make sense since it's a shop that exclusively sells alcoholic beverages). However we're growing and looking for a new venue, thus the wall. For reference, this is in Missouri. Thanks.
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Nov 28, 2011 19:40
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Prefect Six posted:I'm running into a wall with finding a place to meet. Have you looked at renting a grange hall? Might be a little pricey but if your membership is large enough it could be feasible.
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Nov 28, 2011 19:52
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Prefect Six posted:I'm running into a wall with finding a place to meet. A lot of the places (restaurants mostly) are saying it would violate their liquor license to bring in outside alcohol for consumption. Has anyone else run into this and have any tips on how to deal with it? I think the place we typically meet is just letting us bring in stuff at risk of their license (which doesn't make sense since it's a shop that exclusively sells alcoholic beverages). However we're growing and looking for a new venue, thus the wall. Looks like missouri has a tasting license for $25/yr.. wikipedia: alcohol laws of missouri led me to this page: missouri liquor control law e: theres also stuff about microbrewing in these laws: http://www.moga.mo.gov/statutes/C300-399/3110000195.HTM mewse fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Nov 28, 2011 |
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Nov 28, 2011 20:18
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^^ nice My club meets in local breweries and bars with no issues, but then again I'm in Colorado where you can do pretty much anything with homebrew except sell it. It's probably worth researching your state and local regulations so you know if it really is illegal to meet or if they just don't want the hassle of hosting your club. If all else fails you could have members host meetings in their homes?
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Nov 28, 2011 20:18
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honestly it might be easiest if you could get a hold of missouri's "supervisor of alcohol and tobacco control" office, tell them you are a homebrew club and you want to stay legal, and ask where you are allowed to meet. cheaper than hiring a lawyer anyways
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Nov 28, 2011 20:25
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Mewse - this is awesome, you are awesome. Kept calling around and one place said since they let people bring in wine and pay a corking fee, they'd be on OK with bringing in beer (but they're not charging us). I will follow up with whomever is the 'supervisor' and try to make sure. Thanks!
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Nov 28, 2011 21:33
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So, bottling/conditioning my black IPA tonight, but I can't get a straight answer on conditioning... The dude at the brew shop said 1oz of sucrose per gallon of beer, but the book linked in the OP puts it at about 2-2.5oz for my slightly-less-than 5gal brew. For reference the bucket will be in an area about 65 degrees and should be 4.5-4.75gal.
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Nov 29, 2011 00:39
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Speaking of Homebrew clubs, I'm planning on going to my first one this weekend. If you are a goon in Maine (Portland area) and just don't post in this thread - please give me the "Stairs" so I know you are out there.
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Nov 29, 2011 01:01
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GonadTheBallbarian posted:So, bottling/conditioning my black IPA tonight, but I can't get a straight answer on conditioning... The dude at the brew shop said 1oz of sucrose per gallon of beer, but the book linked in the OP puts it at about 2-2.5oz for my slightly-less-than 5gal brew. It depends on how high of a carb level you want. 2oz for 5 gallons seems really low to me. Ounce per gallon seems more reasonable. I just use beersmith to figure it out, but this website seems pretty cool: http://www.byo.com/resources/carbonation
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Nov 29, 2011 01:15
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GonadTheBallbarian posted:So, bottling/conditioning my black IPA tonight, but I can't get a straight answer on conditioning... The dude at the brew shop said 1oz of sucrose per gallon of beer, but the book linked in the OP puts it at about 2-2.5oz for my slightly-less-than 5gal brew. http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipator/carbonation.html Based on 2.0 units of CO2 for the IPA style, 4.6 gallons of beer using corn sugar to bottle prime calls for 2.7 ounces. Dissolve that in a few cups of boiling water and put it in your sanitized bottling bucket first, rack the beer into the bucket on the priming sugar, then bottle.
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Nov 29, 2011 01:20
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I just keep having awesome luck. A friend of a friend just gave me 3 full size sanke kegs  I'm up to 7 kegs now. It's pretty silly.
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Nov 29, 2011 01:53
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Thanks for the resources guys- I figured it out on my own, so I should be swimming in black IPA come Dec. 21. Final ABV will be around 8.5%; Fuckin' retarded efficiency.
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Nov 29, 2011 02:37
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Just kegged my first lager, a triple decoction vienna il serpente turned me on to before he disappeared. It's so clear and deliciously malty  
j3rkstore fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Nov 29, 2011 |
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Nov 29, 2011 03:51
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Hypnolobster posted:I just keep having awesome luck. A friend of a friend just gave me 3 full size sanke kegs Can I have one? Failing that, anyone know of any good brew kettles sales going on?
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Nov 29, 2011 05:17
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Toebone posted:Can I have one? No! They are mine! I think I'm actually going to convert them and throw together another simple 3 burner brewstand and sell them all together. I finally think I'm running out of excuses and it's time to make a pot still with the remaining one, though.  On that note, has anybody ever really talked about distilling in here? Legality issues aside, I know I've seen some pretty horrifying setups posted in the bachelor thread in A/T.
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Nov 29, 2011 05:24
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Hypnolobster posted:No! What an amazing art project let's discuss this thoroughly.
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Nov 29, 2011 07:13
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Doing my first brew this month that's not a mr. beer with some borrowed equipment. Also, I have fucktons of pumpkin left. Anyone have any good recepies for pumpkin spice ale?
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Nov 29, 2011 07:14
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Paladine_PSoT posted:What an amazing art project let's discuss this thoroughly. Everybody likes copper, right?
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Nov 29, 2011 07:20
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I once stuck my head into a homebrew shop in New Zealand. "hey, what's this contraption, with all the pipes and valves? This doesn't look like a brew stand... oh my...."
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Nov 29, 2011 07:35
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Hypnolobster posted:No! What state do you live in? (give me ur brewstands)
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Nov 29, 2011 14:50
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Is there a limit for how long I can have a yeast starter hanging out in the fridge?
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Nov 29, 2011 17:37
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I'd say 4-5 weeks before you want to decant and feed it again to revitalize them/keep them healthy.
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Nov 29, 2011 18:15
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I'm currently building a brew stand and have the frame built. Now I would like to start getting the burners attached. The plan is for 3 burners, but I'm not exactly sure what I need to purchase in terms of regulators, etc. The plan is to use 3 of the 10in high pressure cast iron burners. I might be over thinking this, but if each burner can take 30psi do I need a regulator on the tank that will take 90psi? then 3 30psi regulators, 1 for each burner? Or do I just need 1 30psi regulator and ball valves... I'm starting to confuse myself. I would be forever grateful if someone would throw up a simple diagram for plumbing a 3 burner stand.
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Nov 29, 2011 20:21
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BerkerkLurk posted:Yeah I read it only has pale (pils?) and vienna in Brew Like A Monk, I just have a hard time believing it. The Belgian beer cafe in town has it on tap and I remember it being a really deep garnet color, which I've never got close to even with 100% Vienna malt bills.  But like you said BLAM and also Michael Jackson site it as being and all malt blend of pils and vienna with Saaz hops being used exclusively. I really don't care about the color though, because I'm not trying to clone it, just make a really delicious beer which this is.
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Nov 29, 2011 20:36
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drewhead posted:In unrelated news I just tapped the cider I naturally fermented from last year. Nov 20th last year I purchased 12 Gallons of Stayman Winesap pressed cider from a local orchard at a LHBS sponsored "cider day". Half I pitched S-04 into and half I put an air lock on and left in the corner of the basement for a year. I did dump about 2# of honey in after about a month and racked once in the Feb/March time frame. Other that that it sat. The natural fermented down all the way to 0.996. I thought cider I made with champagne yeast was dry, this stuff is all new kinds of dry. It's quite good, has real apple flavor and more importantly a pronounced apple aroma. But it's so dry it's hard to get more than a pint down. I'm considering back sweetening a bit, but it's also a 9.9% ABV so I'm not sure I need to promote having more than one pint. Maybe I'll just make a simple sugar for parties and stick it in a squirt bottle on top of the kegerator. I do think the natural ferment produced a cleaner cider that IMO has better flavors than the same stuff I pitched yeast. I just put together my first few batches of cider this season, and while researching I came across this page of cider yeast comparisons. The short version is the wild yeast scored highest, but may not be consistent from year to year or location. I went with L1118 for all of mine.
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Nov 29, 2011 22:25
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Jacobey000 posted:What state do you live in? (give me ur brewstands) Ohio. I keep planning on making more brewstands to sell, but I'm too broke to afford the steel in the first place
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Nov 29, 2011 22:40
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Trying to price up things on a budget in the UK is difficult with turkey fryers kind of hard to find. I've found 10 gallon stew pots from France for about 50 euros, shipped, but where can I find a gas burner I can use outside that will boil 7 or 8 gallons of water? (about to try my first extract brew this weekend, but just seeing how much it will cost to try and go all grain with a 1-burner setup) e: try as in drink! krushgroove fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Nov 30, 2011 |
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Nov 30, 2011 01:00
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