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krushgroove posted:Trying to price up things on a budget in the UK is difficult with turkey fryers kind of hard to find. I've found 10 gallon stew pots from France for about 50 euros, shipped, but where can I find a gas burner I can use outside that will boil 7 or 8 gallons of water? Amazon.co.uk seems to have a couple outdoor propane burners.
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Nov 30, 2011 01:15
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I Love Topanga posted:I'm currently building a brew stand and have the frame built. Now I would like to start getting the burners attached. The plan is for 3 burners, but I'm not exactly sure what I need to purchase in terms of regulators, etc. The plan is to use 3 of the 10in high pressure cast iron burners. In this situation 30 + 30 + 30 does not = 90. Go with the one regulator. Important factors are pipe diameter and BTU output of the burners.
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Nov 30, 2011 01:34
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Toebone posted:Amazon.co.uk seems to have a couple outdoor propane burners. Ah, my search-fu wasn't strong enough, I wasn't typing in the right thing. I was just trying 'turkey fryer' and variations. So like this one (one-piece cast iron) or this one (with detachable legs)? I'm guessing the cast-iron one will be the better one, as it's probably able to handle 120+ pounds of weight on it (a US gallon of water is 16 lbs IIRC)?
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Nov 30, 2011 01:45
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In the UK, since everything runs on 220V, it's a lot easier to do electric brewing, which is what I'd recommend in that case. Unless you've gotta have portability, that is.
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Nov 30, 2011 01:51
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I'm looking for some help with my first attempt at making my own recipe. So far I've made a couple of extract brews using other recipes, but I thought I'd try my luck with my own. With all of the other recipes I've used, I was able to get away with just adding liquid yeast directly to the wort before fermenting. However, the recipe calculator I'm using says that I need 544.7 Billion yeast cells, but the package of liquid yeast only has 100 billion yeast cells. Does this mean I need a starter now? Is there a way to calculate how big of a starter I need to get the required number of yeast cells? Am I over-thinking this?
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Nov 30, 2011 04:27
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Could you post the full recipe you're thinking of, or at least the proposed OG, FG and style? Speaking very broadly, you don't need a starter. Pitch one vial and you'll still get beer, often very good beer. What it can do is help ensure you reach your final gravity, reduce off flavors and outcompete any bacteria that got into the wort. Most calculators use the same pitching rate commercial breweries do, which is ideal but not always totally necessary in homebrew. You can get away with one vial into about a 1.060 wort if it's very fresh. There's a lot of good info on yeast and starters on mrmalty.com including a calculator. I personally think starters and fermentation temp control (whether it be a water bath with ice bags or a fridge) are the best bang for the buck upgrade, and it helps extract beers just as much as all-grain if you don't want to make that leap.
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Nov 30, 2011 05:01
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Docjowles posted:Could you post the full recipe you're thinking of, or at least the proposed OG, FG and style? Thanks for the help! I'm still working out the details of which malts and hops I want to use, but I wanted to try to make just a simple Doppelbock: OG: 1.075 FG: 1.020 German Bock Lager #WLP833 Plugging everything into the mrmalty calculator for a simple starter with liquid yeast, it says that I need either 5.4 packs of yeast without a starter, or 2 packs with a 1.89 gallon starter. Sounds like a large starter for a 5 gallon batch! 
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Nov 30, 2011 05:31
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krushgroove posted:just seeing how much it will cost to try and go all grain with a 1-burner setup I hear BIAB process is good for single-burner all-grain brewing. I'm going to give that a go next batch. http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Brew_in_a_Bag
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Nov 30, 2011 05:38
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Yeah lagers are tough. Because of the cold fermentation temp and the desire for super clean flavor, they call for a LOT of yeast. A lot of people will brew a 5 gallon low-gravity lager like a pilsner, rack that off to drink, and then use the entire yeast cake as a 5 gallon "starter" for a big bock. Do you have the ability to keep fermentation temp at 50* F? If not a lager might be biting off more than you can chew. If you let a lager yeast go at ale temps it's gonna be real fruity and weird. You could look at using a California Common or "steam" yeast that gives a lager-like profile but is happy into the low 60's. Or even just a cleaner ale yeast like WLP001. It won't be exactly like a lager yeast but it'll be in the ballpark and won't require 5 vials. If you play with that calculator, you'll also notice that moving to a stir plate reduces the amount you need by a LOT. You can get one for about $45, or much less if you're handy with simple electronics (google DIY stir plate).
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Nov 30, 2011 05:39
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You could also pitch two packets of dry lager yeast, the Saflager 34/70 is the one I see recommended most. That would get you 460 billion yeast cells, which is close enough. Mr. Malty's numbers are generally overkill for what you actually need. Just make sure to properly rehydrate the yeast and aerate your wort well and you'll be fine.
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Nov 30, 2011 13:09
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krushgroove posted:Ah, my search-fu wasn't strong enough, I wasn't typing in the right thing. I was just trying 'turkey fryer' and variations. I am not sure that either of those will have the grunt to do the job efficiently. I also will echo the comment about going electric. Also, a US gallon of water is 8.34 pounds.
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Nov 30, 2011 13:12
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Imasalmon posted:I am not sure that either of those will have the grunt to do the job efficiently. I also will echo the comment about going electric. Yeah I was trying to harken back to my days in architectural engineering classes...you can see why I dropped out of it. So to go electric I'm looking for electric hobs like these? I'm guessing a double would do the job? Or just do it on the electric hob I already have in the kitchen as a gravity setup? e: So I've looked around, apparently some of the Brits like to put electric tea kettle heating elements in the bottom of a plastic fermenting bucket: http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=9899 And there's a German company who makes stainless steel and plastic boilers for brewing, so it's not that crazy of an idea... http://www.brupaks.com/boilers%20mashtuns.htm krushgroove fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Nov 30, 2011 |
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Nov 30, 2011 13:29
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Goons! I need your best porter recipe. I saw this one earlier in the thread, and it looks pretty nice: http://www.thesaq.net/beer/recipes/The%20Profound%20v2.html Any other stand out recipes? I am looking for a 5-6 gallon all-grain batch. EDIT: Baltic porters are welcome ziebarf fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Nov 30, 2011 |
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Nov 30, 2011 19:52
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indigi posted:I'd say 4-5 weeks before you want to decant and feed it again to revitalize them/keep them healthy. 4-5 weeks? Really? Now I know why my starter never went anywhere! I kept the harvested yeast from a previous batch of beer around for 5 months before trying to make my starter. Docjowles posted:You can get one for about $45, or much less if you're handy with simple electronics (google DIY stir plate). Seriously, build your own. You don't even need to be a wiz with electronics. I learned to solder from a youtube video like 10 minutes before building my stir plate and it runs with no problems. It spent a whole week stirring like a champ. When building, you can likely get away without soldering the wires together. Total cost to build my plate? About $6. Way better than $45 - $60 for one online.
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Nov 30, 2011 20:44
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ziebarf posted:Goons! I need your best porter recipe. Here's my Half-Wasted Porter, which always goes a treat around here: http://hopville.com/recipe/307179/robust-porter-recipes/half-wasted-porter 10 gallons, but should scale decently. It started life as a quasi-clone of Anchor Porter, so American Ale II would be a good yeast for it.
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Nov 30, 2011 21:03
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So this predicament got to me a whole lot faster than I expected. I was out at a job site for the demo of an old gas station and took some pictures with my crappy cell phone. "Wait, what is that in the doorway?"  "Seems to be a year old keg of I don't know what."  "Seems only half full.... Hmmmm... HMMMM...." In all seriousness it's an OK looking keg. The valves are pin lock and my current setup is a ball lock setup. The valves are showing rust on both the in and the out sides as well as the lid doesn't have a blowoff valve and is missing one of those plastic guards on the lid release to keep it from scratching up the stainless on the top of the keg. On the plus side it seems to be holding pressure pretty good as it didn't leak anything removing it from the site. However, what's the best way to dispose of 3 gallons of soda syrup?
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Nov 30, 2011 23:21
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ziebarf posted:Goons! I need your best porter recipe. I saw this one earlier in the thread, and it looks pretty nice: Here is something I made to be sort of similar to a Fuller's Porter, it's still carbing right now, but tasting it before bottling, I thought it was drat good: 1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L 1 lbs 8.0 oz Brown Malt 8.0 oz Chocolate Malt 7 lbs 8.0 oz Pale Malt, Maris Otter 2.00 oz Fuggles [4.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min 1.00 oz Fuggles [4.00 %] - Boil 10.0 min I didn't get great efficiency from my BIAB, so I ended up adding some sugar. I also used the Wyeast London ESB yeast for it. It's gotta a nutty taste and a coffee aroma.
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Nov 30, 2011 23:29
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SweetSassyMolassy posted:However, what's the best way to dispose of 3 gallons of soda syrup? pour it in someone's gas tank
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Dec 1, 2011 00:19
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mindphlux posted:pour it in someone's gas tank What do you drive?
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Dec 1, 2011 00:42
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Dolemite posted:4-5 weeks? Really? Now I know why my starter never went anywhere! I kept the harvested yeast from a previous batch of beer around for 5 months before trying to make my starter. I was talking about a starter, specifically, that was presumably going to be direct-pitched into wort. Harvested yeast can keep 6-12 months if it's kept in the fridge and doesn't have a mess of trub in it, but you definitely need to step it up a couple times before it'll be ready to tackle another batch.
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Dec 1, 2011 00:57
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SweetSassyMolassy posted:However, what's the best way to dispose of 3 gallons of soda syrup? I once bought a keg full of Diet Rite syrup. I dumped it in the kitchen sink, as I recall. It might have been the bathtub though. It smelled the way it tastes when the soda fountain is miscalibrated and is pouring too rich.
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Dec 1, 2011 00:57
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Cool, thanks. Didn't know how thick it would be and wasn't going to pour something along the lines of molasses down the drain. You must have gotten a heck of a deal on a full keg of soda syrup to justify buying it and tossing the syrup down the drain.
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Dec 1, 2011 01:28
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From my dim memories of working in fast food restaurants, even Coke syrup with sugar is pretty liquid. Hot water should dissolve it instantly. I bought the keg at my local shop - it appeared to have been scavenged like yours, so the syrup itself was free (and worth every penny!).
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Dec 1, 2011 01:45
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Docjowles posted:Do you have the ability to keep fermentation temp at 50* F? Yup! I just finished making a fancy temperature controller that should keep the fermenter with 2 degrees of the target temperature. Since I finished building this thing, I figured I should try brewing a lager since I could now get the temperature low enough. Docjowles posted:If you play with that calculator, you'll also notice that moving to a stir plate reduces the amount you need by a LOT. You can get one for about $45, or much less if you're handy with simple electronics (google DIY stir plate). Dolemite posted:Seriously, build your own. You don't even need to be a wiz with electronics. I learned to solder from a youtube video like 10 minutes before building my stir plate and it runs with no problems. It spent a whole week stirring like a champ. When building, you can likely get away without soldering the wires together. Ok, I'm definitely going to try to build my own. Looks like I just need a magnet, a 12V computer fan, an LM317, and a pot. Here is what I have for the recipe so far. This is my first attempt at making a recipe so be nice! I tried to stay within the guidelines for the style with respect to the ingredients and the OG/IBU/SRM. Malts: 5.5 lbs Amber Liquid Extract 4 lbs Light Dry Extract 1 lb Crystal Malt - 80SRM Hops: 2 oz Hallertauer (Boil 60 min) 1 oz Hallertauer (Boil 20 min) Yeast: 1 Pkg German Bock Lager White Labs #WLP833 1 Pkg Munich Lager Wyeast Labs #2308 Other: .25 oz Irish Moss 4 oz Oak Chips (?) Batch Size: 5 gal Boil Volume: 3.15 gal OG: 1.075 IBU: 20.7 Color: 16.4 SRM Est ABV: 7.4% How does this look? Any suggestions? Thanks for the help thus far!
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Dec 1, 2011 01:53
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Daedalus Esquire posted:Here is something I made to be sort of similar to a Fuller's Porter, it's still carbing right now, but tasting it before bottling, I thought it was drat good: I don't have my notes with me, but my Fuller's London porter clone looks very similar to yours. I had 1# brown malt, 12 oz chocolate, 1# crystal 80 with Maris otter as the base. Mash at 154*-153*. 150 is too low.
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Dec 1, 2011 02:17
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Did that give you a coffee flavor? Mine has some coffee flavor, but it's not as robust as the actual fullers. I have great coffee aroma coming from the beer, but as I said, it's got way more of a nutty taste and only hints of coffee. Of course, that was prior to carbonation, so I'm sure it will change some, maybe the coffee will become more pronounced.
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Dec 1, 2011 03:31
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Reporting in on my helles with Wyeast 2308 that had a very slow, weak fermentation: I increased the temperature to 58-60* after about 7-10 days of fermentation when it had only moved about 6 gravity points. Apparently if you pitch an adequate amount of I guess slow and unhealthy 2308 and ferment it a few degrees warmer than its recommended range, you get a lot of banana and pear. It tastes almost like a Belgian blonde. It's good. I can't wait to demolish this keg, thinking about dry-hopping a bit with some Saaz to fancy it up a bit. Very, very loving delicious, but probably not repeatable, and I didn't mean to do this, and so I am a failure who cannot make beer.
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Dec 1, 2011 07:28
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Daedalus Esquire posted:Did that give you a coffee flavor? Mine has some coffee flavor, but it's not as robust as the actual fullers. I have great coffee aroma coming from the beer, but as I said, it's got way more of a nutty taste and only hints of coffee. I actually don't get very much coffee flavor in my version or the original. I get much more of a chocolatey aroma in both. The original has this amazing body created by the yeast (they crash cool to drop it out before it finishes). My brew over attenuated because i mashed too low (148). Mine is the official recipe Fuller's published plus a little extra brown malt for more chocolate aroma.
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Dec 1, 2011 08:47
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Thanks for the recipes guys. I think I am going to combine them a bit to make something like a "Fuller's Half Wasted Porter Clone". I will post the recipe when I finish it.
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Dec 1, 2011 16:32
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Scottw330 posted:
I would ditch the amber and light and go with a mixture of extra light/pilsner lme/dme and Munich lme and completely ditch the crystal. The reason you want to go as light as possible with these extracts is it's the best way to make sure it's highly fermentable extract, even with a lager that's going to finish closer to 1.020 the amber dme is more likely going to push you in to cloying territory, especially with crystal, which doesn't really have any place in a German lager. Looking at Jamil's BCS maybe CaraMunich would be a suitable steeping grain. Earlier you said you wanted to start with 'just a simple dopplebock'. While all german lagers have a elegant simplicity to them, they're anything but. Do you have a better way to oxygenate the wort besides shaking it?
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Dec 1, 2011 16:58
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I don't fuss too much with yeast starters, but wondering if I might have messed something up. I normally use dry packet yeast because it's cheap and easy and I've found a favorite in safale 05, but I had a year old packet of danstar windsor, and sprinkled that into my 1.090 (lol) flemish sour wort, and it took off like a rocket. I bought a brand new safale 05, and sprinkled that into my 1.050 rye ale wort, and it's still sitting there at 65F, not doing a goddamn thing (brewed sunday). I've raised it up to 70F in hopes it will start, but I think that's the longest I've ever gone without fermentation starting. I did accidentally mix the yeast into the wort (had to add 2 gallons of sterile water to hit my gravity mark), whereas normally I just sprinkle it on top and let it sit there - but surely that can't be that big of a deal, right? also, just want to express my joy at all grain brewing. I've officially been all grain for about two years, but I just remembered back in the day when I was doing partial grain, and thought it would actually be more work to do all grain. it isn't, and I'm so happy I made the transition!  finished these two beers (in one day! on one stovetop! with 1.5 pots! with one 5gal mashtun!) in 6-7 hours brew time start to cooled wort and cleaned counters, a new record for me (if you figure ~3hr per brew)
mindphlux fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Dec 1, 2011 |
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Dec 1, 2011 17:59
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All-grain is a hoot. There was a shop (now defunct) called Brewer's Resource that had as a logo a robed, hooded figure holding aloft a sheaf of grain in one hand and a hop vine in the other, over a crucible. That's what all-grain feels like to me - alchemy.
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Dec 1, 2011 18:42
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Jo3sh posted:All-grain is a hoot. There was a shop (now defunct) called Brewer's Resource that had as a logo a robed, hooded figure holding aloft a sheaf of grain in one hand and a hop vine in the other, over a crucible. That's what all-grain feels like to me - alchemy. Couldn't agree more. I was a casual partial mash brewer for years. I am head over heals addicted to brewing since I switched to all-grain 2 months ago. Following-up on that Porter recipe.. Here is a combination of 3-4 recipes I have found: Mash: 8 lbs Pale Malt, Maris Otter 3 lb Munich Malt 1 lb Brown Malt 1 lb Crystal 90L 8 oz Pale Chocolate Malt 8 oz Flaked Barley 1 teaspoon Gypsum Kettle Additions: 0.50 oz Kent Golding (60 min) 0.50 oz Kent Golding (30 min) 0.50 oz Williamette (2 min) Irish Moss (20 minutes) 1 teaspoon Gypsum Yeast: 2 Packages Safale S-04 I am still debating adding Black Patent as I really dislike astringent flavors (biggest reason I went with the Pale Chocolate). Also considering dropping a half pound of the Munich and upping the Brown malt (never brewed with brown, want to see what it tastes like). Does this recipe look balanced?
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Dec 1, 2011 18:54
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Darth Goku Jr posted:I would ditch the amber and light and go with a mixture of extra light/pilsner lme/dme and Munich lme and completely ditch the crystal. Seconding this. Also I like the idea of oak in a doppelbock but 4oz sounds like a lot. I'd start with like 1-2oz and go from there. You can always add more/let it sit longer, but you can't take wood flavor out once it's there.
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Dec 1, 2011 19:10
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Jo3sh posted:All-grain is a hoot. There was a shop (now defunct) called Brewer's Resource that had as a logo a robed, hooded figure holding aloft a sheaf of grain in one hand and a hop vine in the other, over a crucible. That's what all-grain feels like to me - alchemy. Opps, that audible "HA" wasn't just in my head. People in cubes around me are looking around curiously.
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Dec 1, 2011 19:51
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mindphlux posted:I don't fuss too much with yeast starters, but wondering if I might have messed something up. I normally use dry packet yeast because it's cheap and easy and I've found a favorite in safale 05, but I read a thread on HBT about how lots of people are having strange (bad) fermentations with new US05. I think the consensus was that the batch or batches are infected. Symptoms are very long fermentation (4 weeks to FG), yeast that will NOT flocculate, and off flavors. I didnt pay much attention since I use liquid yeast 99% of the time, but I may be brewing an IPA this weekend and am gonna double check before I ruin 7 oz of hops plus grain with a poo poo packet of yeast. Worst case scenario I'll just use either 1275, 1968 or even 3711 to get the job done.
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Dec 1, 2011 23:20
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Went to the homebrew shop today to pick up some ingredients, forgot to get melanoidin malt. gently caress me, they're all an hour plus round trip. I guess I'll be making a less malty beer this go around  Also picked up US-05, but everything I've seen on the problem batches indicates that the end product is the same, it just ferments and flocculates slower than usual, which isn't much of a problem for me.Does doing a concentrated boil have any effect on flavor/aroma hop additions besides lower utilization? I want to make a low gravity, hop-burst pale ale with high alpha hops and don't want to have the 60+ IBUs I'd get following my hopburst addition schedule with 12% AA Simcoe. indigi fucked around with this message at 00:54 on Dec 2, 2011 |
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Dec 2, 2011 00:51
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Darth Goku Jr posted:Earlier you said you wanted to start with 'just a simple dopplebock'. While all german lagers have a elegant simplicity to them, they're anything but. Do you have a better way to oxygenate the wort besides shaking it? I don't have any other way to oxygenate the wort right now . I'm thinking maybe I should use someone else's recipe since this is my first time brewing a lager, and I'll put the doppelbock recipe on hold for when I am better at making starters.
Scottw330 fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Dec 2, 2011 |
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Dec 2, 2011 01:00
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Do any of you have experience with culturing lactobacillus? I'm using the Mad Fermentationist method here. I'm starting with about 3/4 of a pack of Wyeast 5335 lactobacillus (the other 1/4 is going into a small batch of lambic I'm putting onto fruit) added to about 2qt apple juice + yeast nutrient. How long will it take the lacto to wake up and start multiplying significantly if stored at room temperature? I realize elevated temperature would be better for lacto, but I don't have a heating belt or anything. The best I can do is leave it sitting on a heat register.
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Dec 2, 2011 01:34
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How does this look for a dunkelweizen? Reusing my 3068 as much as possible before spending money on a different variety of yeast.. 2.5 gallon batch. 4.0 oz Rice Hulls (0.0 SRM) 2 lbs 15.6 oz Wheat Malt, Pale (Weyermann) (2.0 SRM) 1 lbs 14.3 oz Pilsner (2 Row) Ger (2.0 SRM) 3.7 oz Chocolate Wheat (Weyermann) (415.0 SRM) 0.461 oz Hallertau [4.30 %] - Boil 45.0 min 14.0 IBUs
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Dec 2, 2011 02:50
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