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I have been itching to brew for two months and will finally have an opportunity to on Saturday! I already have the ingredients for a double IPA batch that was supposed to be a Pliny the Elder clone until I found my LHBS did not have any Simcoe  .I was actually quite shocked because I was able to get 2010 Simcoe from them until about August or September. The employee said they didn't get any 2011 Simcoe or Citra this year. Wow. They are a major distributor for local breweries here, and I bet a lot of local brewpubs will be hit by this. Anyways, here is the recipe http://hopville.com/recipe/1027689/imperial-ipa-recipes/pliny-style-2011-12-06-version I have all the hops listed in the recipe in my freezer, plus 1 pound each of Amarillo, Magnum, Chinook, as well as 1/2 pound of Simcoe coming from an online order. They were shipped USPS today so there is a fairly good chance I may receive them before brewday (saturday). If they do arrive in time, I will add 2 oz of Simcoe to the post boil addition and probably 1 oz to the 5 minute boil addition. I will ferment for 7-10 days and then dry hop when I transfer to the keg. Ideally I will force carb and have a lot of this bottled off for Christmas gifts after 4 or 5 days of dry hopping. Any recommendations to the recipe? I plan to mash at 152* and add the 14oz of sugar during high krausen. This is also my first attempt at first wort hopping and I'm using it as my sole bittering addition. Will this come out too bitter? I'm hoping the FWH technique causes a rounder or smoother bitterness because this is a good 30+ IBU's more than anything I've brewed so far. i have been fortunate enough to try Pliny here in tampa and it is not as bitter as the numbers would suggest. It was extremely dry and extremely floral, even though it had been bottled over a month before we drank it. I'm hoping this will at least be a dry, really drinkable, incredible aromatic and tasty IPA. Edit: I'm giddy as a school girl! The site I ordered hops from just got 2011 Simcoe whole hops back in stock for $13 a pound. I'm trying to decide between getting 2 or 3 pounds... Edit 2: Ended up ordering 2 pounds Simcoe leaf, 1 pound citra leaf, 1 pound US hallertau pellets for 62 shipped.. We're not gonna have any room in the freezer for food  , I won't be able to hide this one from the gf  .
tesilential fucked around with this message at 09:37 on Dec 6, 2011 |
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Dec 6, 2011 08:29
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the yellow dart posted:Anyone have experience with any of the electric turkey fryers out there in terms of using them for brewing? I found a good price for this turkey fryer: http://www.brucefoods.com/mystOre/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=154&idcategory=28 I have a really weak stovetop so I spent a bit of time researching this a year or so ago. Basically, as far as I was concerned, these weren't an option. From what I understand, even though the fryer has the ability to bring oil to ~400*, it's harder to bring water up to boiling because the heat capacity for water (the amount of energy required to change the temperature of a substance) is higher than oil. Depending on the electric fryer you buy your success will probably range from complete disaster to barely manageable. This guy ran some tests with the fryer you linked and starting at 76* water temp it took him almost an hour and a half to reach boiling. I don't know what your situation is, but there are probably two options for you: 1) Use your stove and split your batch up into two separate pots for the boil. I use two 6 gallon pots with about 4 gallons in each and split hop additions between the two of them. I also have to put the pots between two burners to get the heat I need to boil. It's all pretty ridiculous, but it works well even though you get higher evaporation rates. 2) Use your stove / buy an electric turkey fryer and supplement it with a heat stick. This seems to be really common, but I'm not really crazy about it because I don't have a good enough understanding of electricity to feel safe dropping a home-made 2000 Watt power source into a vat of water even with a GFI outlet. PoopShipDestroyer fucked around with this message at 15:40 on Dec 6, 2011 |
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Dec 6, 2011 14:28
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I built a heat stick last year and it worked great. It was really simple and pretty difficult to screw up. Mine did burn out on me, though, not sure why*, and I really need to make a new one. I moved this past August and I can't even get 5-6 gallons of wort to a boil using multiple burners on my current stove. *=I think what happened is it didn't like being in contact with my worth chiller. I put the chiller in the pot to disenfect while the stick was still in and the element was in contact with the copper coil of the chiller. The outlet popped and and stick was toast several seconds later. It may have been coincidence, I don't know. It was all submerged so I didn't think it would be a big deal.
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Dec 6, 2011 15:14
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My turkey fryer (Bayou Classic with 7.5 gal pot) gets wort to boiling in under 20 minutes usually. That one must be a really weak burner. With all grain you're usually heating it up from ~150* to boiling, not 75*, so it doesn't take quite so long.
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Dec 6, 2011 19:00
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Super Rad posted:Racked two beers into kegs yesterday: What did you use as a recipe? I've been looking to make a brew with maple recently, and I've run into a bunch of different recipes that didn't strike me well. I'd love to give this one a shot.
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Dec 6, 2011 19:03
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indigi posted:My turkey fryer (Bayou Classic with 7.5 gal pot) gets wort to boiling in under 20 minutes usually. That one must be a really weak burner. With all grain you're usually heating it up from ~150* to boiling, not 75*, so it doesn't take quite so long. You're talking gas though, right? This has an electric heating coil in it. I agree you won't be heating from 75* to boiling very often (outside of mash out water in some cases) but he'd also find himself going from 38* to 160* so I was just providing a baseline.
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Dec 6, 2011 19:13
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RiggenBlaque posted:2) Use your stove / buy an electric turkey fryer and supplement it with a heat stick. This seems to be really common, but I'm not really crazy about it because I don't have a good enough understanding of electricity to feel safe dropping a home-made 2000 Watt power source into a vat of water even with a GFI outlet. This is basically what my original plan was, heat sticks seem to be the way to go due to price and accessibility for electric. Thanks for the info, didn't want to make a huge mistake.
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Dec 6, 2011 21:19
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Apologies to my goonbrew secret santee; I ordered a bunch of bottle shipping boxes off the internet since I needed some anyway and apparently they are backordered. So it might be very close to/after Christmas before I actually get poo poo sent out  I promise I am not going to stiff you!
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Dec 6, 2011 21:24
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Reposting from above. http://hopville.com/recipe/1027689/imperial-ipa-recipes/pliny-style-2011-12-06-version Anyone have experience using first wort hops as sole hop addition? Edit: sole bittering addition tesilential fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Dec 7, 2011 |
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Dec 7, 2011 00:31
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I'm going to be brewing my first batches soon (extract kits from morebeer) and I'd like to reuse beer bottles. I've been cleaning and saving them for a while and just realized that some are twist-off and some are pry-off. From what I've read online it seems like the handheld capper only works with pry-off bottles, but you can get a bench capper that works with twist-off bottles. How reliable is reusing the twist-off bottles? Should I keep saving my twist-off bottles for the future when I get a bench capper, or just recycle them now?
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Dec 7, 2011 00:50
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Cpt.Wacky posted:I'm going to be brewing my first batches soon (extract kits from morebeer) and I'd like to reuse beer bottles. I've been cleaning and saving them for a while and just realized that some are twist-off and some are pry-off. From what I've read online it seems like the handheld capper only works with pry-off bottles, but you can get a bench capper that works with twist-off bottles. I'm in Canada and I have a bench capper so I just use regular twist-off bottles. I've read warnings about American twist-off bottles not having very strong necks. I'm not sure if they'll work with the wing capper, hopefully someone else will chime in.
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Dec 7, 2011 00:54
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Cpt.Wacky posted:I'm going to be brewing my first batches soon (extract kits from morebeer) and I'd like to reuse beer bottles. I've been cleaning and saving them for a while and just realized that some are twist-off and some are pry-off. From what I've read online it seems like the handheld capper only works with pry-off bottles, but you can get a bench capper that works with twist-off bottles. I accidentally used a couple twist offs with my red, wing capper. They worked but I always slightly under carbonated my bottled batches for fear of bottle bombs. In reality I would toss the twist offs and just keep the pry offs. By the time you are ready for a bench capper you should probably look into kegging.
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Dec 7, 2011 01:07
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I've used a red wing capper on twist-offs, but these were a special case as they were Unibroue bottles that were from a brew that happened to be bottle conditioned.
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Dec 7, 2011 01:11
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I'm reworking a robust porter recipe I found on the internet and brewed last year, when I was just getting started into using grains. It was an odd recipe though, as it called for boiling the specialty grains rather than steeping or doing a mini-mash. Here it is: 8 lbs Sparkling Amber DME 1.75 lbs Black Patent malt 3 oz Cascade Hops Pellets at 5.5% (I think, forgot to write this one down) 1 oz Kent Goldings Hops Pellets aa 4.5% White Labs London Ale Yeast, WLP013 Bring the grains to a boil in 2.5 gallons of water, boil for 10 mins. Rinse grains with hot ~155F water, about 3.5 gallons in the boil kettle. Dissolved DME, started heating to a boil. 60 minute boil, cascade hops at the start. 10 minutes from end, added kent goldings. The OG was 1.082, the FG was 1.030 -- clearly, there were some problems! The end result was pleasant at least, but now that I've done a lot more reading, I've been curious about the grain-boiling thing. Anybody done something like it before? What's the deal? My overall plan is to do a barley wine using the yeast cake from this brew. I figure a switch to a different yeast is necessary, I think WLP001 might work well. I also plan on doing a late addition of the DME, hopefully I can get a much lower final gravity.
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Dec 7, 2011 02:45
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Cpt.Wacky posted:I'm going to be brewing my first batches soon (extract kits from morebeer) and I'd like to reuse beer bottles. I've been cleaning and saving them for a while and just realized that some are twist-off and some are pry-off. From what I've read online it seems like the handheld capper only works with pry-off bottles, but you can get a bench capper that works with twist-off bottles. I have crushed the glass off the tops of several screw-top bottles with my wing capper. Even not-quite-so-cheap beers.
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Dec 7, 2011 03:10
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 Untitled by digitalhifi, on Flickr I'm not sure if I brewed a beer or brownies... This is my KBS clone. Recipe http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/kbs-clone-recipe-zymurgy-185487 . Its been in primary for almost a week and a half. I think this is just yeast that is chilling on top, maybe due to all the coffee grounds and chocolate and hops in the recipe. I'm planning on taking a gravity sample and probably racking to secondary this weekend where I will add the cold brewed coffee and oak beans.
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Dec 7, 2011 03:30
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digitalhifi posted:
 What's the result of the sample? Is it just a heavy sheet on top or what?
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Dec 7, 2011 06:02
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TenjouUtena posted:I have crushed the glass off the tops of several screw-top bottles with my wing capper. Even not-quite-so-cheap beers. Yeah I don't think it's a good idea to try to use a capper with twist-off bottles.
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Dec 7, 2011 06:11
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Paladine_PSoT posted:
I'm going to sample it this weekend. I'll report back.
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Dec 7, 2011 06:15
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Recipe Request: I really want to make a Stout. Last time I made one (Chocolate Cherry Stout) it got infected, and the judges at a homebrew competition scoffed at it. I want something pretty big, but not super dry, roasty, astringent. I am thinking maybe a max of 7% alcohol, so no Russian Imperial stouts essentially. I want it to be decadent, smooth, and filling. Anyone got a tried and true all grain for me that fits these descriptions?
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Dec 7, 2011 07:32
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Simple, traditional, delicious: 75% Golden Promise (Maris Otter works) 15% Flaked Barley 10% Roasted Barley (Go English/Belgian for a more characterful, assertive roastiness, US/German for something a bit weaker and more simple) Shoot for 1.045-50, 152* for an hour, 60 minute bittering addition to 40 IBUs, any yeast from the British Isles. If you go to 1.060 or above I'd cut back on the roast barley to 7-8% if you're using the English or Belgian, I wouldn't want to go over 1.5lbs. I used to go 70/20/10 but find that 15% flaked barley is plenty and Golden Promise is just my favorite base malt.
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Dec 7, 2011 07:46
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indigi posted:Simple, traditional, delicious: Done and done. I think my LHBS only has the Otter, but I love otter, so that shouldnt be a problem. I have some EKG leftover, so those will be my hops. indigi, you have outdone yourself once again.
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Dec 7, 2011 07:56
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I went ahead and just semi-aborted my sour ale attempt. I don't know, maybe once I have a bigger place with a shed or something I'll go full steam on the sour ales, but I don't want to accidentally innoculate my fermentation fridge or equipment with bret, so I'll play it safe for now. I realize I'm probably being ridiculous. I bought a couple pounds of frozen tart cherries and some cranberry juice concentrate, and added that to my heavy rear end ale in secondary along with some citric acid and pectinase. so, I guess maybe I'll have something sort of tart and sour... maybe? :/ I also thought about going through an extra bottling step, and adding some bacteria then... dunno. blerg. all said and done, it's really good to be brewing again. I have sort of gotten frustrated with my work recently. I have an IT company, but it basically doesn't 'produce' anything - we just mainly support other companies and their ability to run a functional business. not that their businesses actually produce anything either, but it's really grounding to actually get your hands dirty and create/produce a tangible 'thing' from raw materials every now and again. I really should figure out how to make this my job...
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Dec 7, 2011 09:42
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mindphlux posted:I realize I'm probably being ridiculous. A little bit. I had my Flanders Red share my fermentation fridge with a pale ale for the first 2 weeks of fermentation and the pale ale isn't the slightest bit infected, nor is any other beer fermented in the fridge since. Adding bacteria at bottling could end in bombs even with no priming sugar, so I'd advise against that.
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Dec 7, 2011 10:12
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When I did my Flanders Red I stored my sanitizer in the bucket I used for primary for about 2 months then started using it again and haven't gotten an infection from it yet. I also use the same racking cane and the same bottling bucket, wand and tubing from it without any problems. Just make sure you sanitize everything very well and you'll be fine.
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Dec 7, 2011 13:26
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mindphlux posted:...it's really grounding to actually get your hands dirty and create/produce a tangible 'thing' from raw materials every now and again. I really should figure out how to make this my job... I can agree with all of this. Question: Is anyone here a BJCP judge? How hard is the test/how required is the required reading? e: I also take back what I said about Homebrew clubs. Haven't even been to a meeting yet and have just been on the email list - dude offered up some flip top bottles and showed at up my door with a truck full of them. 
Jacobey000 fucked around with this message at 15:41 on Dec 7, 2011 |
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Dec 7, 2011 13:31
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Jacobey000 posted:I can agree with all of this. Yup, that's one of the things I love about brewing (another being I can get hella crunk off the end product  ). I also work in IT and enjoy it, but it's also great to actually bust out tools, build things, play with fire and have a physical product at the end of the day.
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Dec 7, 2011 16:08
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First of all, this thread is way too hidden being in GWS. Took me forever to find it, but dear god I'm happy I did. I'm about to start brewing. I've done all my homework, and it's time to learn-by-doing. I have a bit of a challenge, though, in that I live in Bangkok, where the temperature rarely drops below 90 during the day and 80 at night, where brew shops are nonexistent, and where beer ingredients have no chance of ever being cultivated. Now then, I work in a workshop full of industrial engineers and product designers, so I can have a slick rig made for nothing (any design tips are much appreciated). I can also pick up a commercial fridge for cheap to solve the temperature problem. So the real issue becomes where to get fresh, quality ingredients. Does anyone have experience or recommendations for importing hops/barley/yeast/wort in a cost-effective way without damaging the end product?
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Dec 9, 2011 09:04
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Smeef posted:Does anyone have experience or recommendations for importing hops/barley/yeast/wort in a cost-effective way without damaging the end product? I'd imagine so long as whatever you are having shipped is vacuum packed, freshness won't be too much of an issue, even with some variance in temperature. just use the internet, and maybe send some suppliers e-mails asking how they ship their stuff, and explaining your situation. the homebrew market is small enough that I imagine you'll get a personalized response to whatever issues you raise...
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Dec 9, 2011 09:52
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I'd consider only using dry yeast. I have to imagine international shipping and sitting at 90 degrees for days/weeks would completely destroy liquid stuff.
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Dec 9, 2011 15:33
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Smeef posted:Does anyone have experience or recommendations for importing hops/barley/yeast/wort in a cost-effective way without damaging the end product? I know that Japan and Korea have vibrant homebrew cultures, so you may be able to save a little on shipping by ordering from one of their stores.
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Dec 9, 2011 15:46
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Smeef posted:Does anyone have experience or recommendations for importing hops/barley/yeast/wort in a cost-effective way without damaging the end product? Dry yeast and canned or dry malt extract is probably your best bet. Vacuum sealed hops should be ok as well. They might degrade a bit during shipping in hot weather, but should still be perfectly usable. You can just add a little extra if need be.
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Dec 9, 2011 17:15
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Is this the thread to discuss the Homebrew Secret Santa? How many beers are we supposed to send?
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Dec 9, 2011 19:17
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Magua posted:Is this the thread to discuss the Homebrew Secret Santa? I wasn't sure either so I'll be sending 3 beers (22oz bottles) to my HSS person. I'm just waiting for my Hef to finish so I can bottle it and send the package on its way.
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Dec 9, 2011 19:27
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I haven't sent mine out yet, but I'm planning on sending a 6 pack of 12oz bottles.
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Dec 9, 2011 19:34
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crazyfish posted:I haven't sent mine out yet, but I'm planning on sending a 6 pack of 12oz bottles. Also doing this.
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Dec 9, 2011 19:37
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Yeah, I just got back into town, so I'll have to put a package together this weekend.
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Dec 9, 2011 19:47
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Bottling from a keg is a pain. I couldn't get the pressure right, turned it way down (9psi) and it was still just coming out all foam. Tried the picnic tap with bottle filler for a while and that was serious trouble 90%+ foam. Eventually I just used the tube rammed into the regular tap and the pressure finally died down enough to fill the bottles okay.
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Dec 9, 2011 20:18
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Put your bottles in the freezer. Bottling from a keg is awesome and a cinch.  Also standard pouring rules apply: don't half-open the faucet, smooth continuous pour, etc. With proper form and prep (cold gear) you'll actually find you're having trouble getting enough foam to cap on.
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Dec 9, 2011 20:19
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Jacobey000 posted:Bottling from a keg is a pain. I couldn't get the pressure right, turned it way down (9psi) and it was still just coming out all foam. Tried the picnic tap with bottle filler for a while and that was serious trouble 90%+ foam. Eventually I just used the tube rammed into the regular tap and the pressure finally died down enough to fill the bottles okay. I just started bottling from a keg and used 5psi, it came out a little slow but I didn't have any foaming problems. Remember to degas the keg a bit after you adjust the regulator pressure, I forgot 
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Dec 9, 2011 20:29
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