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Dr JonboyG posted:What tires are people going for these days in a 185/60 R14? I was positive that Bridgestone made RE960A/Ss in that size but according to their webpage they don't now. Like beatdown said, Star Specs. I have 195 Star Specs. They fit fine and grip very well.
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Dec 14, 2011 22:21
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| # ? Apr 23, 2024 14:34 |
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I love taking the MX-5 to the tire shop. Every time they end up peeling out trying to take off. In their defense, I tend to do it as well if I haven't driven it in a while.
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Dec 14, 2011 23:03
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It was so easy to peel out in my Miata (in the best, most fun way). I kind of miss it since it never happens unintentionally in my car now that is 800-1000lbs heavier with 245 rears despite having nearly twice the power.
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Dec 14, 2011 23:48
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This keeps happening unintentionally, though usually only when it's at least a bit wet. I dunno if it's just the PO's lovely winter tires, or me sucking at driving, but giving it any amount of gas sufficient to get the car to move also causes me to peel out (and puts a grin on my face).
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Dec 14, 2011 23:55
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Yeah they're pretty touchy (a good thing). I'm used to driving my E36 which you can practically just dump the clutch on and go that it's quite an adjustment anytime I switch to the Miata. E: Just remembered the day we bought it, on the test drive with bald proxes in the rain. 1-2-3-4000RPMWHEEEEEEELSPINNNN. I turned and looked at my SO "we're getting this car." Test drive took all of five minutes. revmoo fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Dec 15, 2011 |
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Dec 15, 2011 00:41
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I feel like that's the reason I don't mind rainy days. I mean I can't put the top down but I spend so much of the drive giggling like a schoolgirl with the back tires spinning that I don't mind having the top up.
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Dec 15, 2011 05:05
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Finally put my Miata up for sale, what do you think of the price? http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/cto/2755315394.html I already got one email and I just put it up a few hours ago.
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Dec 16, 2011 07:27
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I'd say it's fair. I would've asked for around $4500 or $5k for my '99, and it had 20k more miles, sunburned paint, and no mods (obligatory MODS DON'T INCREASE VALUE, but those are tasteful / improve the car).
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Dec 16, 2011 08:24
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Yay, starting to snow sideways outside the Miata.
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Dec 16, 2011 15:49
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Sockington posted:Yay, starting to snow sideways outside the Miata. That snow is on its way to me isn't it? 
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Dec 16, 2011 17:08
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Ziploc posted:That snow is on its way to me isn't it? Damnit I want some too!
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Dec 16, 2011 23:34
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Just got the FM downpipe in, very high quality piece. Gonna (try to) put it in tomorrow. Can't wait.
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Dec 17, 2011 04:41
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Does anybody else find it amlost impossible to read their dipstick on a BP engine? I (think) I've overfilled my engine twice now because of it. Is drilling holes in stick a good solution?
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Dec 17, 2011 17:08
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revmoo posted:Just got the FM downpipe in, very high quality piece. Gonna (try to) put it in tomorrow. Can't wait. Very nice, I can't wait to get some exhaust on my car. You should look into the MAF relocation kit on mazda-speed, it's a much cheaper alternative to the other intake systems and evens out the power band quite a bit to boot. jammyozzy posted:Does anybody else find it amlost impossible to read their dipstick on a BP engine? I (think) I've overfilled my engine twice now because of it. Is drilling holes in stick a good solution? Never had a problem with mine, are you wiping it completely clean?
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Dec 17, 2011 21:19
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jammyozzy posted:Does anybody else find it amlost impossible to read their dipstick on a BP engine? I (think) I've overfilled my engine twice now because of it. Is drilling holes in stick a good solution? On my old FWD BP I found it slightly easier than on the 02' Miata. I find our 2010 Mazda5 even worse. There's always a bit of oil on the stick when I pull it out - even when I start at like 3L fill and add in increments (4.6L capacity) 
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Dec 17, 2011 21:24
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jammyozzy posted:Does anybody else find it amlost impossible to read their dipstick on a BP engine? I (think) I've overfilled my engine twice now because of it. Is drilling holes in stick a good solution? The dipstick in my NA was really difficult to read. Looking under a bright light against a light background (like a paper towel) always helped a lot. As the oil got older and blacker it got easier to read, but right after a change it was difficult.
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Dec 17, 2011 21:49
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I just discovered a quarter sized hole in my passenger floor pan.  Time to remove all the carpet and see if there's any more anywhere else. The ECU cover was completely rusted out. Where does that water come from?Either way once I fix the hole(s) it'd be a great time to get some of the knock-off dynamat to cover the floor and trunk. Maybe then I can hear my passenger on the highway.
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Dec 18, 2011 00:13
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Blackdawgg posted:I just discovered a quarter sized hole in my passenger floor pan. Have you got AC?
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Dec 18, 2011 00:55
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meltie posted:Have you got AC? It is equipped but it hasn't worked in over a year.
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Dec 18, 2011 01:06
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It's a convertible. If water hasn't leaked in or somebody hasn't been caught out in the rain in at at least once, they're full of poo poo.
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Dec 18, 2011 01:16
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DreamOn13 posted:It's a convertible. If water hasn't leaked in or somebody hasn't been caught out in the rain in at at least once, they're full of poo poo. Yeah, it's coming in through the roof (helpful I know) or the heater matrix is leaking, which (on the NA) is behind the glovebox.
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Dec 18, 2011 01:20
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I've had mine leak once or twice from the trim connecting the driver's side window and "roof."
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Dec 18, 2011 05:47
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Day one of FM downpipe install is complete. Got 4/5 bolts loose so far in about 7 hours of work. Pain in the rear end, but I'm getting it done. I'm so spoiled from working on my BMW.
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Dec 18, 2011 06:36
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Did you soak them with pb blaster or kroil before you started? That stuff was mandatory doing anything on my 944. Let me know how it sounds and feels when you're done, I'm looking forward to getting my downpipe and will probably go with the FM one.
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Dec 18, 2011 07:15
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Soaked overnight. Some of those bolts were just ridiculous. The top bolt ended up bringing its stud out with it, that's how tight the stupid bolts were. I had to make some CRAZY combinations of wobbles, swivels, extensions etc to get to everything. This is not a job to be approached lightly. I've done a lot of work on cars, and this is by far the most difficult job I've ever done. I would not recommend doing the job without a FULL set of tools, including sockets, extensions, swivels, pry bars, wrenches, and definitely an impact wrench. With the full suite of tools and an extra set of hands it took maybe 12 hours. Mazda really doesn't design cars to be worked on in the way that BMW does. With all that said, I got the job done and the downpipe is great. My fiance drives the car most of the time and she could immediately tell the difference in power and sound. When I took it out, it didn't seem much different until I looked at the speedo. 0-100 mph takes..not a lot of time. The DP smooths out the revs so much that the car almost feels slower. Where boost used to kick in HARD at 4k, it now rolls on smoothly at 2600 and hits full boost by 3k or so. The noise is subtle but noticeable. All in all, I definitely recommend the Flyin Miata Downpipe, but it's not a job for the faint of heart. The full intake kit will probably net more HP, but the downpipe is a good mod for someone that plans on adding other mods.
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Dec 19, 2011 01:48
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Did anyone else notice how utterly crappy the holiday sales were from the miata vendors this year? I remember Rspeed did a 20% sale last year and I bought a lot of poo poo, and this year there was plenty of nice deals on Subaru stuff, but I didn't see anything worth getting for the miata. They don't want our money.
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Dec 19, 2011 16:50
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When I put the turbo on my 17 year old 1.6 I soaked everything for about a week w/ PB blaster while still driving it. Everything came off easily and without drama. I think the trick is to start soaking it a few days before and heat cycle the stuff.
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Dec 19, 2011 22:31
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I have also implemented the heat the poo poo out of it with a blow torch and wack it with a hammer a few times in a pinch but it does really help if you have the foresight to soak it for a few days. I never do.
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Dec 20, 2011 00:43
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Is there any non ugly way to mount a front licence plate? The frankenbracket the PO had on was scratching the poo poo out of the front bumper and was mounted by 2 wildly different bolts that were rusted and bent. Got pulled over twice recently for not having a front plate, just warnings though.
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Dec 20, 2011 01:08
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I broke a couple clips getting to the post-cat o2 sensor connector. The 5 clips that run across the back of the shelf. Where can I buy these? The dealer wanted $2 a piece and had to order them.
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Dec 20, 2011 01:17
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Russian Bear posted:Is there any non ugly way to mount a front licence plate? The frankenbracket the PO had on was scratching the poo poo out of the front bumper and was mounted by 2 wildly different bolts that were rusted and bent. Got pulled over twice recently for not having a front plate, just warnings though. http://www.thompson-automotive.com/Disappearing_plate.html Appears they have one for the NB also.
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Dec 20, 2011 01:17
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Is the Mazdaspeed exhaust worth anything on the open market? It would help defray the costs of replacing the midpipe/resonator/muffler if I could re-sell the old exhaust.
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Dec 20, 2011 13:38
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Russian Bear posted:Is there any non ugly way to mount a front licence plate? The frankenbracket the PO had on was scratching the poo poo out of the front bumper and was mounted by 2 wildly different bolts that were rusted and bent. Got pulled over twice recently for not having a front plate, just warnings though. You can easily make a bracket that bolts onto the tie-down hooks out of cheap flat bar. Two bolts with large washers work great for holding it onto the hook.
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Dec 20, 2011 15:08
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revmoo posted:Is the Mazdaspeed exhaust worth anything on the open market? It would help defray the costs of replacing the midpipe/resonator/muffler if I could re-sell the old exhaust. Yeah, NB folks will use them since they're just slightly louder than stock.
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Dec 20, 2011 16:09
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So what's the going rate for a 95M these days? My sister-in-law is thinking of selling hers since where she lives now, she simply never needs her own car. 112k miles, good shape but it has been in a couple smacks (always repaired properly, though...it's nice when the body shop knows that a 95M is not a $2k beater).
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Dec 21, 2011 16:28
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I sold my 95M with 90k miles six months ago for $5000 easily, and I probably could have gotten another $500-1000 if I were patient. This is in the Seattle area. It was in overall pretty nice shape for a 15 year old car, but certainly not flawless, and stock except for a Robbins glass top on it from 2007.
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Dec 21, 2011 20:06
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Just to follow up my last question, turns out whipping the dipstick in and out really fast makes it much clearer and I can now see that I'm off the top of the gauge and into danger town. 
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Dec 21, 2011 21:35
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My NB has the same issue where it seems pretty unsure of what the oil level is I'll have to try this next time. Seems a bit illogical though?
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Dec 22, 2011 01:52
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Pull out the stick dry it off, wait 5-10 minutes then check it.
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Dec 22, 2011 06:00
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For gently caress's sake, if the squeaking clutch and only occasionally functional speedometer weren't enough on my 2003 1.8 NB, today the CEL came on. I filled up a full tank before parking at work, and it came on when I was driving from lunch. Under these circumstances it seems possible that i didn't tighten the gas cap properly... I checked and it seemed fine, but I unscrewed and replaced it anyway. If it doesn't go away now, am I correct in suspecting the EGR next? My scanner hasn't arrived yet so I'm only guessing, and I don't know of any place that does a free scan. How do you guys generally proceed if CEL sudennly comes on without any other symptoms?
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Dec 22, 2011 15:29
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