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Eight Is Legend posted:It's working now for some reason So when I suggested the thread title, this is what I meant. Things work or don't work or fluctuate between the two for apparently no reason.
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Dec 7, 2011 16:27
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If money isn't an object, and I'm looking for the best coverage for wifi in a small office, should I just get the Netgear N900? From what I've read a lot of people say that they really get a lot better wifi signal out of this router. The wired portion will be connected to a switch where 10 or so computers will connect to it. There are probably 5 - 10 wifi devices that will connect to it.
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Dec 7, 2011 20:28
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I get good range and performance out of my Netgear 3700. In general the latest netgear routers are reliable with good firmware. The 4500 may provide suitable range and in the worst case you can use 2.4GHz for increased range if 5 GHz doesn't have the reach. For a small open plan office there shouldn't be an issue, and you will be able to split wireless devices between 2.4GHz and 5GHz wireless. Though note a lot of handhelds only support 2.4 GHz at limited speeds, unless you have a lot of iphones or ipads. If you have 5-10 wireless devices connecting the processor in the 4500 will help substantially with wireless throughput.
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Dec 7, 2011 23:05
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Does anyone know why my Netgear USB wireless adapter keeps trying to connect to a "NativeWifi Default Profile" every time I start up my PC? I keep deleting the connection from the Windows Network and Sharing Center but it keeps coming back every single reboot. I have my priority list set to connect automatically to my actual wireless network upon startup in both the Windows network settings and in the Netgear Smart Wizard but it doesn't seem to matter, forcing me to manually disconnect from the "NativeWife Default Profile" and then connect to my network every time I boot up. Could it have something to do with the Netgear Utility Smart Wizard? Should I even have the Netgear Utility thing installed?
Shimrra Jamaane fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Dec 8, 2011 |
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Dec 8, 2011 05:23
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There is apparently the option to remove the option within the utility. I found a thread that appears to address this but there seem to be mixed opinions. http://forum1.netgear.com/showthread.php?t=57148
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Dec 9, 2011 00:35
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Yeah I browsed some results from Google and noone seems to have a definitive solution to what's going on. If I wanted to, how would I go about just getting the Netgear Utility completely off my PC and then use the built in Windows one? Will just uninstalling it from the Add/Remove Programs list get rid of it without loving with the driver? And Jesus Christ, how can someone have 74,000 posts on the Netgear forums? Shimrra Jamaane fucked around with this message at 01:33 on Dec 9, 2011 |
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Dec 9, 2011 01:26
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Try add/remove programs. It may work without the specific driver but I can't be sure. If that doesn't work I could hunt around to see if there's a way to work around it.
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Dec 9, 2011 05:17
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Newf posted:Hello thread. I've just moved into a new apartment with my girlfriend and we had intended to go without an internet connection for a number of reasons but primarily due to addiction issues of mine. After getting our stuff unpacked we learned that our landlords (we're in a basement apartment) have an unsecured wireless network that they're happy enough for us to use. Meh. It's a convenience for the girlfriend, so that's fine and all, but I want to set something up to restrict my own access. Best way to implement this is to go to a shrink
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Dec 9, 2011 05:41
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Newf posted:Hello thread. I've just moved into a new apartment with my girlfriend and we had intended to go without an internet connection for a number of reasons but primarily due to addiction issues of mine. After getting our stuff unpacked we learned that our landlords (we're in a basement apartment) have an unsecured wireless network that they're happy enough for us to use. Meh. It's a convenience for the girlfriend, so that's fine and all, but I want to set something up to restrict my own access. Don't listen to the other guy, what you should really do is cover your walls and windows with tin foil to act as a faraday cage, thus blocking the wifi signal.
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Dec 9, 2011 07:47
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Magic Underwear posted:Don't listen to the other guy, what you should really do is cover your walls and windows with tin foil to act as a faraday cage, thus blocking the wifi signal. Also effectively punishing the gf too. So I have an obnoxious issue that I'm trying to get to the bottom of. Setup:  Problem: When trying to stream content to my Xbox from my Windows Media Center, my network drops to total garbage. I'll have the Status page up and I'll go from ~100mpbs/300mbps down to ~11mbps when I'm trying to access my PC's video library. This makes video nearly unplayable without a long period of buffering, and the MCE (well, technically MediaBrowser) interface incredibly laggy. If I'm using the Xbox to stream Netflix, game, etc there is not an issue. Attempted Fixes: * Switched from a WRT54G running Tomato to the M20 Plus (now running DD-WRT) (I don't know if the network was dropping to terrible speeds back when I had the 54G, I just attributed poor performance to it being a G router) * Upgraded my 802.11G Dell wireless card to an Intel AGN card. * Internet suggested dropping my NIC down to 10/100 from 10/100/1000 on the MCE. Other desktops are usually powered off. * Changed router channels, set to auto * Increased width from 20mhz to 40mhz (had it on 20 since I didn't want to be a spectrum hog) Suggestions? This wasn't an issue at my old place where I had the Xbox wired directly to the gigabit switch.
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Dec 12, 2011 01:39
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There one bit that confuses me. Is the media centre pc connected to the router by wired or wireless connection. You have references to a NIC and wireless card.
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Dec 12, 2011 03:08
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Devian666 posted:There one bit that confuses me. Is the media centre pc connected to the router by wired or wireless connection. You have references to a NIC and wireless card. Desktops are all hard wired with gigabit capabilities (well, with the exception of the Win7 machine set to 10/100 currently). Though as I'd mentioned, the other desktops are powered down.
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Dec 12, 2011 04:07
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Ok. You do have a curious issue then. Put the speed of the MCE pc back up to gigabit speed as reducing the speed probably won't do anything except add a minor amount of latency. The only possible thing I could think of that could occur while everything is operating correctly is: that you may be streaming from the MCE pc higher bitrate that you are getting from netflix. If that is the case then you are probably at the limit of the router's wireless performance. Outside of that something strange is going on.
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Dec 12, 2011 04:12
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Devian666 posted:The only possible thing I could think of that could occur while everything is operating correctly is: that you may be streaming from the MCE pc higher bitrate that you are getting from netflix. If that is the case then you are probably at the limit of the router's wireless performance. Well that doesn't explain why it drops to crap speeds though, saturating the pipe shouldn't make the overall Rate drop. (117Mbps in the photo but if I were streaming via MCE it'll drop to 11 or so)  Also, keep in mind that the issue happens just on the WinMCE menu too. Granted MCE Extenders work by basically creating an RDP session to my computer, it shouldn't be causing *that* kind of grief (especially when it doesn't cause me any problems when RDP'ing from my laptop to my desktop)
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Dec 12, 2011 07:53
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The last possible option, because it's Linksys equipment, is that it could be overheating. There may be slightly more traffic that when you're using netflix (though I do doubt this) which may be overheating the cpu in the router.
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Dec 12, 2011 10:53
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I think I need an 8-port router, I'm pretty sure a switch is not an awesome plan here. Basically, I want to be able to connect all my stupid devices (TV, Blu-Ray, Popcorn Hour, 2 X360's, a NAS and a PC) as well as have wireless to my Transformer, iphone and laptop simultaneously if necessary. Right now I'm using a good but not bad motorola cable modem from TWC, it's stuck to 4 ports which means I'm juggling an ethernet cable between sources sometimes and that sucks. http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ref=pd_sim_e_2 I think that's the one, it might be a 6120 instead but it's 5 months old so it's probably the latest. trouble is, I can't really seem to find a good 8-port router with wireless and I'm pretty sure if I set the cable modem to passthrough mode it's not going to keep the wireless on anymore is it? So I neeeeed something that can just do all the things I want after I hand off ethernet from the cable modem.
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Dec 14, 2011 19:06
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Telex posted:I think I need an 8-port router, I'm pretty sure a switch is not an awesome plan here. Cable Modem -> Wireless router <-> 8-16 port switch I don't understand why it's not a good idea considering you're off loading traffic from the wireless router and only passing external traffic over the uplink cable. Meanwhile, everything else communicate with each other over the switch.
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Dec 14, 2011 19:13
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Telex posted:I think I need an 8-port router, I'm pretty sure a switch is not an awesome plan here. Amazon can fix you up for a reasonable cost: http://www.amazon.com/D-Link-DIR-632-Wireless-N-8-Port-Router/dp/B003XMAD22 LmaoTheKid posted:Is there any reason you don't want to just hook up a switch to the new router? The #1 best reason is because Time Warner doesn't give you administrative access to the modem.
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Dec 14, 2011 19:13
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Digital_Jesus posted:The #1 best reason is because Time Warner doesn't give you administrative access to the modem. I'm not trying to be dense here, but why does that matter if it's going to passthrough you your Wifi router's WAN port?
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Dec 14, 2011 19:17
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LmaoTheKid posted:I'm not trying to be dense here, but why does that matter if it's going to passthrough you your Wifi router's WAN port? Oh, no, actually you're fine. I read your statement as "Why don't you just plug in a switch to the time warner router" not "Buy a 4-port router and stick a switch on it too,"
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Dec 14, 2011 19:18
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Digital_Jesus posted:Oh, no, actually you're fine. I read your statement as "Why don't you just plug in a switch to the time warner router" not "Buy a 4-port router and stick a switch on it too," Whew, just checking. Personally I like using a seperate switch, especially if your router is also your AP. I know a lot of them have more memory and faster processors than the days of old but when you're dealing with NAS->Media front end, it makes sense to use a switch uplinked to a wireless router. To me anyway. Maybe I'm just 
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Dec 14, 2011 19:20
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For his use I don't think the Switch would be a massive benefit to him, because unless he's streaming lots of data from that NAS to a few devices at a time hes not going to saturate most half-way decent home routers.
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Dec 14, 2011 19:24
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Digital_Jesus posted:For his use I don't think the Switch would be a massive benefit to him, because unless he's streaming lots of data from that NAS to a few devices at a time hes not going to saturate most half-way decent home routers. I wouldn't be worried about saturation, I would be worried about routing/nat tables with all of those devices. He's still doing a tablet, laptop, and iphone over wireless. 2 xboxes, nas frontend, blu ray (I assume netflix). It's just a bit of a heavy workload. As I said, im sure newer devices can handle it fine but I like to split things off if I can (especially a NAS/Media front end.
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Dec 14, 2011 19:34
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Digital_Jesus posted:For his use I don't think the Switch would be a massive benefit to him, because unless he's streaming lots of data from that NAS to a few devices at a time hes not going to saturate most half-way decent home routers. I'm not going to saturate anything and I just want to know if some device exists that I haven't been able to find. 8 ports, routing, wireless. That's pretty much all I need and I'd prefer to not have 3 devices when I'm already going to end up with two.
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Dec 14, 2011 20:07
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Telex posted:I'm not going to saturate anything and I just want to know if some device exists that I haven't been able to find. Yeah, I already linked you one.
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Dec 14, 2011 20:12
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Digital_Jesus posted:Yeah, I already linked you one. that thing appears to be 10/100 not gigabit.
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Dec 14, 2011 23:08
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Telex posted:that thing appears to be 10/100 not gigabit. Yeah if you want 8+ Gb ports you're gonna need a switch
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Dec 14, 2011 23:21
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ryanbruce posted:Well that doesn't explain why it drops to crap speeds though, saturating the pipe shouldn't make the overall Rate drop. (117Mbps in the photo but if I were streaming via MCE it'll drop to 11 or so) What the gently caress? Share a folder with some video files on your media server upstairs. Fire up a laptop and head down to your xbox. Sit near it and connect up to the network. Open up your media server and drag a file onto your desktop. Take a gander at your wireless speeds and see if they poo poo themselves as well when transferring a file. Under the hood I worry that a ton of SMB packets are getting transferred and causing the router to retransmit frequently then fallback in its data rates lower and lower until it can get consistent throughput to the Xbox. I don't know how you'll fix it yet but I'm curious if a laptop has the same problem.
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Dec 17, 2011 00:43
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Telex posted:that thing appears to be 10/100 not gigabit. What you're asking for is going to be expensive, and probably only available on something at least in the 'small business' class or maybe a Mikrotik device. Just get a switch. Its even in the OP The loving OP posted:I'm out of ports on my router, why doesn't anybody make an 8 port router. Woe is me A switch does not add any layers, and in normal operation, you won't notice ANY difference than if it was all ports on the same router. In fact, the only difference is better performance for all your wired devices, as a separate switch is probably going to be better switching performance than your typical router (ymmv).
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Dec 17, 2011 03:22
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Hoping to get a hint at where to start troubleshooting a router issue. I have a Buffalo WHR-HP-G300N. It's great when it doesn't drop. Unfortunately it seems to be dropping more and more. At first I thought it was because we have more wireless items like a kindle and ipod touch but it's doing something really weird. Every night we can bet on the fact that the router will drop everything from wireless sometime between 8 and 10pm. We are not activating any other device when it happens. Just sitting in front of computers and then the wireless goes byebye for everything in the house. Today I was on all day without issue. Then at 8, almost on the dot, it dropped again. A reboot and it should be fine for the next 24 hours. It's been doing this for about a week now after we got a new laptop (unsure it's related or coincidence because it replaced another laptop that is now turned off). We've already gone through a bunch of maintenance in the past, well before this issue cropped up; updating firmware, setting it to channel 11 instead of auto, setting the deal in the back so it's not on auto, general pitfalls that seem to be common issues with this router. This thing it's doing now is something new and I lack the networking knowledge to troubleshoot it properly. What does it mean? 
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Dec 17, 2011 05:30
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londerwost posted:What does it mean? The bad kind of wireless magic appears to be happening. See if not using the new laptop helps things at all.
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Dec 17, 2011 06:54
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There's also a chance that someone starts using their wireless network heavily at those times. Try using inssider on a laptop to see if your wireless network is overlapping the same spectrum as someone else's.
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Dec 17, 2011 07:06
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My sister is going to get a new ADSL connection after getting gouged by her cable company for a long time. The service provider that she has chosen requires here to purchase a modem from them or get one herself. The provider is going to nail her for 99.99 CDN for a D-Link 514 which from what I can gether is an old shitbox that sucks. The routers posted in the OP all seem to be routers only unlike the DI-514 which is a modem with a built in networking capabilities. Or I could just be stupid wrong becuase I don't know much about networking? It seems the case since in the modem subsection its stated that the poster has not much info there. Are there any goon quick picks for a solid, reliable modem with built in wireless router functionality if the ones in the OP won't do it? She will be using it mainly to connect to her iMac and her her boyfriend has a PS3 which he games on. Would perfer a solid product that can let her torrent in peace while her boyfriend games simultaneously if needed.
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Dec 18, 2011 01:38
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Devian666 posted:There's also a chance that someone starts using their wireless network heavily at those times. Try using inssider on a laptop to see if your wireless network is overlapping the same spectrum as someone else's. According to inssider, all networks in my neighborhood use 1-9 (most on 1, 6 and 8) but there's one that uses 9. Which means my sole channel 11 using router overlaps with about 3 others (2x on 8, one on 9). I could go up, no one else uses any channels past 9 except me, but is it wise to use say, channel 13 which still overlaps 9 or channel 14 that's all by itself? Also did another firmware update, apparently they release a new update in the last month. Hopefully this helps. I got dropped today around 11am and I'm starting to get sick of it.
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Dec 18, 2011 01:43
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londerwost posted:I have a Buffalo WHR-HP-G300N. It's great when it doesn't drop. Unfortunately it seems to be dropping more and more. At first I thought it was because we have more wireless items like a kindle and ipod touch but it's doing something really weird I think the G300N(H) and the AG300H are known for dropping issues. If it has DD-WRT you can try the latest svn build here: ftp://ftp.dd-wrt.com/others/eko/BrainSlayer-V24-preSP2/2011/12-14-11-r18007/buffalo_whr_hp_g300n/
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Dec 18, 2011 02:26
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londerwost posted:According to inssider, all networks in my neighborhood use 1-9 (most on 1, 6 and 8) but there's one that uses 9. Which means my sole channel 11 using router overlaps with about 3 others (2x on 8, one on 9). I could go up, no one else uses any channels past 9 except me, but is it wise to use say, channel 13 which still overlaps 9 or channel 14 that's all by itself? Try dd-wrt as recommended above. Channel 14, if I recall correctly, is only legally supported in Japan. You may find a lot of your networking gear would need foreign drivers to operate and in some cases the drivers won't be available.
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Dec 18, 2011 02:46
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MikeC posted:My sister is going to get a new ADSL connection after getting gouged by her cable company for a long time. The service provider that she has chosen requires here to purchase a modem from them or get one herself. The provider is going to nail her for 99.99 CDN for a D-Link 514 which from what I can gether is an old shitbox that sucks.
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Dec 18, 2011 02:50
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Devian666 posted:Try dd-wrt as recommended above. Well, I don't know anything about the custom firmware and I'm not too keen on spending a lot of time learning about it. Just reading the first few steps on flashing seem pretty involved for my level of knowledge. However, there have been great reviews about the Asus RT-N56U. If this keeps up, I'm thinking of just grabbing one of these. Seems like I should grab one regardless since the G300N was released almost 8 years ago and the Asus would just about quadruple my current rate. Inssider indicates my rate is among the lowest in the neighborhood. 
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Dec 18, 2011 03:38
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londerwost posted:Well, I don't know anything about the custom firmware and I'm not too keen on spending a lot of time learning about it. Just reading the first few steps on flashing seem pretty involved for my level of knowledge. I hate to break it to you but the RT-56U really needs to be flashed with dd-wrt to work reliably. If you don't feel up to the task of flashing a router then look at the Netgear routers in the OP. They work reliably right out of the box and are the only routers that don't need flashing.
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Dec 18, 2011 03:46
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londerwost posted:Well, I don't know anything about the custom firmware and I'm not too keen on spending a lot of time learning about it. Just reading the first few steps on flashing seem pretty involved for my level of knowledge. The WHR-HP-G300N isn't anywhere near 8 years old, it has the same wireless hardware as anything else and it's still sold. Anyway, it's a model where Buffalo actually paid DD-WRT for an 'official' port so if you want something with newer wireless drivers, DD-WRT is the way to go. Instructions for flashing are usually written by people with aspergers, you can safely ignore all that noise and just go to the 'firmware upgrade' interface, click browse, select the 'buffalo-to-dd-wrt_webflash-MULTI.bin' file, click upgrade, and wait 5 minutes.
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Dec 18, 2011 04:45
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