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Dear Tool thread, Why should I buy chrome sockets when the impact ones fit my ratchets just as well? Sincerely, A hobbyist who needs metric sockets.
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Dec 27, 2011 02:31
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Thinner walls, easier to fit in some areas. Also, if you have 12pt heads, a hex socket is no good!DEUCE SLUICE posted:Although it can do 1 ton of pressure as a machine press, so I suppose i can use it to do my suspension bushings.
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Dec 27, 2011 02:40
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meatpimp posted:There must be some mechanic culture I am not privy to... 'cause a $6,200 tool box seems beyond ridiculous to me, unless you have so much money to throw around that you've run out of things to buy. If the toolbox is financed through Snap On financing, it will end up costing a lot more than $6,200
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Dec 27, 2011 06:04
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daslog posted:Dear Tool thread, There isn't a real reason except impact ones don't fit in some spaces.
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Dec 27, 2011 06:18
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The impact ones are also much more rust prone compared to good chrome plated sockets. But yeah, nothing really wrong with just getting a set of impacts if you don't have the room/funds for both.
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Dec 27, 2011 07:35
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Christobevii3 posted:There isn't a real reason except impact ones don't fit in some spaces. This. It pays to have as many sizes and lengths and angles of sockets as possible if you're working on cars. Which reminds me... I wish so much that they (harbor freight) would sell "all in one" type kits that are just metric sizes. I dream of a kit that has: -One 3/8 ratchet -One 3/8 breaker bar -One short and one long extension -2 adapters for 1/4 and 1/2 and a U joint -Reg sockets in 8-22mm -Deep sockets in 10-16mm -Wrenches in 10-18mm -2 Phillips and 2 Flat head screwdrivers -a 1/4" hex socket screwdriver with the various assorted bits you run into (Torx, Allen, Phillips and Flat including micro and larger sizes, maybe 25 or so of these) -Monkey wrench -Wire cutters -2 types of pliers -medium sized channel lock -medium sized vice grip -Box Cutter -Wire stripper multi tool -Multimeter -8" or so C clamp I bet harbor freight could sell this as a fix anything on the side of the road type kit for around $80-100 and do very well. They already sell a lovely version of this that isnt metric only for $40 (w/20% off) that is basically the same thing except both metric and SAE with a lot fewer sockets and wrenches.
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Dec 27, 2011 07:38
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Shiny sockets are also easier to find when you drop one in the dark and it either rolls down the side of the ditch or into the frame of the car and it is the only one you have that will fit. This usually happens when every store will be closed for the next 3 days and it is the only car you own.
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Dec 27, 2011 13:11
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Elephanthead posted:Shiny sockets are also easier to find when you drop one in the dark and it either rolls down the side of the ditch or into the frame of the car and it is the only one you have that will fit. This usually happens when every store will be closed for the next 3 days and it is the only car you own. My Craftsman jig saw (auto scroll saw) finally poo poo the bed last night after 20 years of service. I'm wondering if I should even make an attempt at repairing it. I don't suppose Sears/Craftsman would give me any sort of credit or discount towards the purchase of a new one. Would they?
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Dec 27, 2011 16:25
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Would they? No
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Dec 27, 2011 18:34
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So picked up a few pieces over Christmas. But most importantly a set of "Professional Ratchet Spanner Socket Adaptors"  Which look like this, and include spare rubber o rings (which are what keeps the adaptor lodged in the spanner, when there is no socket to keep it on, via the push button)  And combines to make a pretty lo pro ratchet.   Just need to see how they hold up now.
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Dec 27, 2011 22:19
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sharkytm posted:No forgot the  I'm wondering if there are any decent replacements on the cheap since I rarely used this one but don't want to be caught without one.
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Dec 27, 2011 23:10
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Lord Gaga posted:Theres no way youre going to make $6200 on having that over this: http://www.harborfreight.com/13-drawer-red-industrial-quality-roller-cabinet-90320.html here's another $10 off http://www.harborfreight.com/13-dra...utm_source=1003
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Dec 27, 2011 23:22
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Anyone up for a little jack chat? I'm going to be headed over to Delaware for New Years, so I might as well hit up Harbor Freight for some tax free shopping. While I'm there I'm going to pick up a floor jack and some jack stands, and probably one of everything else that strikes my fancy. Current vehicle is a 2004 Mustang Convertible, weight is approx~ 3200lbs. so I'm looking at the 1.5 Ton Compact Racing Jack @ $80 and the 1.5 Ton Lightweight Racing Jack @ $130. Both look more than low enough to get under the car, and I'll be well within the weight limit jacking one half of the car at a time, I'm just curious if the extra 3 inches of maximum height is worth the extra $50. Anyone have experience using either of these on a mustang?
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Dec 28, 2011 06:43
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I have the $80 jack and it's fine for lifting my GTO. If you're doing a lot of engine work, like replacing the headers, etc. it might be worth the extra lift but for normal stuff like oil changes the $80 jack is great.
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Dec 28, 2011 06:53
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Well I dont own a mustang, but here's my experience. I have a maxima. I've had the 1.5 ton aluminum compact jack for a couple of years now. It still works fine. I've had no problems with it whatsoever. But 14 3/4" is not very high at all. After lifting and setting the car on jack stands, there's just enough clearance to get the tire off. This is jacking the whole front up by the crossmember. I actually changed my clutch last year. Man that was a bitch with such limited clearance. I would really drop the extra money for the increased lift. I assume you're looking at the aluminum jacks because they're light weight and east to transport, yea? If not, maybe consider a heavier steel jack. I've been eyeing this guy here: http://www.harborfreight.com/rapid-pump-2-ton-low-profile-heavy-duty-floor-jack-68050.html 23 3/4 lift height. 9" more than my current jack. And this one is low profile, so that works good for you. I'll concede that this one weighs 70lbs more, but I definetly think its worth it. Anyways, thats my 2 cents.
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Dec 28, 2011 06:57
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Definitely go for more lift. I find myself constantly regretting getting the aluminum racing jack from HF. Just last week I had to stack it on four paving stones to get enough lift do a motor mount job.
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Dec 28, 2011 13:11
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Lord Gaga posted:in 20 years of being a mechanic, you'll never get $6200 worth of business or efficiency gain out of it. Hard to turn a profit on a Snuggie either but drat if people don't just keep buyin' 'em. I think the potential bad press is absolutely the only reason Snap-On doesn't sell one with a built-in Fleshlight.
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Dec 28, 2011 22:42
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HF just mailed out a 25% off one item coupon for 1/1/12, and the taller jack is down from $120 to $70, so I might have to do that, although as a big guy, the extra lift with the steel jack would be nice.
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Dec 30, 2011 00:03
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mod sassinator posted:oil changes the $80 jack is great. If you can swing it, ramps are way nicer (probably know that  )
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Dec 30, 2011 00:10
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Wild Bill posted:HF just mailed out a 25% off one item coupon for 1/1/12, and the taller jack is down from $120 to $70, so I might have to do that, although as a big guy, the extra lift with the steel jack would be nice.
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Dec 30, 2011 00:17
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metallicaeg posted:My store has a bunch of signs up stating no additional coupons on jacks and storage chests/cabinets. That's fine, wasn't expecting too double up, there's a bunch of other poo poo I can use the 25%er on. Maybe a tool box for the trunk or a heavier set of jack stands. Never been to a HF before, I'm sure something will catch my eye.
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Dec 30, 2011 00:33
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Wild Bill posted:Never been to a HF before, I'm sure something will catch my eye. Famous last words.
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Dec 30, 2011 01:12
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The Pittsburgh steel low-profile jack is really tempting. I VERY rarely have to haul the jack anywhere except across my garage, and it looks like it would definitely clear even the lowered car. Maybe I'll stop by the store when I'm up there next week...
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Dec 30, 2011 02:11
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Can anyone recommend a rechargeable work light? I've found these: Harbor Freight, of course; A Terralux, A Stanley, and a Bayco. Would really appreciate any suggestions or advice. nitsuga fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Dec 30, 2011 |
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Dec 30, 2011 03:11
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nitsuga posted:Can anyone recommend a rechargeable work light? I have this smaller Bayco light and should have bought one years ago. It's extremely bright, compact and its removable batteries last 2+ hours. So much better than tripping over/burning myself a 60 watt corded drop light. The Amazon one looks like it has double the battery life and lumens.
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Dec 30, 2011 05:21
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I have this: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03473919000P?blockNo=5&blockType=G5&prdNo=5&i_cntr=1325228728797 Never been anything less than thrilled with it.
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Dec 30, 2011 08:06
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I'm a big fan of LED headband lights--Harbor Freight has a couple for under $5 or so. Light is usually right where you need it and your hands are free.
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Dec 30, 2011 08:11
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camino posted:I have this: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03473919000P?blockNo=5&blockType=G5&prdNo=5&i_cntr=1325228728797 I have this Craftsman one (well, last year's model, with the switch at the top of the handle): http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03473904000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1 My main complaint is that the top has LEDs, so it can act like a flashlight. So, to turn it off, I have to click the power button three times. One click turns the big strip on. Two clicks turns the big strip off, and the "flashlight" LEDs on, and three clicks turns both the big strip and flashlight LEDs on. THEN one more click turns it off. Other than that, I never use it. I bought a good LED headlamp at an outdoor store, and I wear that for EVERYTHING now. That is my suggestion to everyone. I have used the cheap ones, but this is great because it uses three AA batteries, and runs forever (130 hours on the LEDs)!
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Dec 30, 2011 15:33
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I just bought a zebralight h51fw headlamp and love it. It's small, lightweight, well made, uses 1 AA battery, and very bright. A bit pricey, but definitely worth it.
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Dec 30, 2011 17:10
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Ordered the Bayco, will report back. Do you guys find the headlamps a little disorienting? Do you find you get tunnel vision? Also, any good advice for organizing a workspace?
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Dec 30, 2011 18:36
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nitsuga posted:Ordered the Bayco, will report back. For camping, etc, it's no more or less disorienting than a normal flashlight.
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Dec 30, 2011 21:01
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Home Depot has Brinkman LED headlights that run on AAAs in 2-packs for like 8 bucks. I think I own around 6 of them now... 1 in each jeep, 1 in my suitcase, 1 in the house, etc. Between that and my Commercial Electric work lights (LED, 12 volt wall and car chargers included, 25 bucks at home depot) I have done more auto repairs in the dark than in the light.
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Dec 30, 2011 22:57
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This is what you want. http://www.amazon.com/Makita-BML184-Lithium-Ion-Fluorescent-Incandescent/dp/B000K6ILGO Then buy the tools to go with it.
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Dec 31, 2011 00:17
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I have a massive boner for these. Much cheaper and I've gotten over 6 hours out of a single charge. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202532404/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
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Dec 31, 2011 01:00
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kastein posted:Between that and my Commercial Electric work lights (LED, 12 volt wall and car chargers included, 25 bucks at home depot) I have done more auto repairs in the dark than in the light. This is what I hate the most about Daylight Savings Time. 
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Dec 31, 2011 22:24
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I don't mind working after dark, in fact I tend to do most of my work then no matter what time of year it is. I DO mind heat, humidity, mosquitos, and freezing cold or rain. If it's between 40 and 70 with low humidity and no bugs I am in wrenching heaven.
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Dec 31, 2011 23:03
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Good lord. Are there any special techniques for getting out stuck balljoints? I was just doing the upper control arms on my e34 and and I had one that gave me a hell of a time. I unbolted it on the driver's side, jacked it up to take some load off the joint, and then a couple light taps with the pickle fork and it came right out. On the other side, I tried the same thing and nothing. I beat the poo poo out of it with the pickle fork in all directions and it didn't budge at all. Tried smashing against the threads with a sledge and all manner of heat and prying. I even went and got one of those stupid little balljoint pullers and got the same result as the last time I tried to use one, it snapped in half. I finally had to completely remove the plate that the arms and strut mount to, use a cutoff wheel to cut the balljoint off of the arm, then turn it over and set it on top of a 32mm socket and smash it out with a 20lb sledge. I finally get the stub out and the bore is perfectly clean and nice looking and not a spec of rust. Did it just manage to perfectly wedge itself in the taper, or was I missing an easier way?
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Jan 1, 2012 04:26
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I've got a pretty decent ball joint puller, what I like to do is crank down on it so it's under a decent amount of tension but nothing obscene, then smack it with the BFH. Couple whacks and the load it's under tends to do the job.
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Jan 1, 2012 04:37
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Maybe that would be a decent investment. At least Autozone still gives me my money back when their lovely ones break. I guess it doesn't take rust for poo poo to get stuck, dammit!
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Jan 1, 2012 04:46
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14 INCH DICK TURBO posted:I've got a pretty decent ball joint puller, what I like to do is crank down on it so it's under a decent amount of tension but nothing obscene, then smack it with the BFH. Couple whacks and the load it's under tends to do the job. This, and if it still doesn't come loose I use some heat. Sometimes balljoints are just reallllly in there.
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Jan 1, 2012 05:49
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