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Could someone direct me to the AUGR thread? I checked the OP and searched and couldn't find the car build info. I was invited to my first ever goon game and had no car to race. 
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Jan 6, 2012 00:50
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| # ? Apr 29, 2024 12:13 |
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A few of us are racing right now. I keep loving up the track settings and putting enormous tracks to 3 laps and short tracks to 1 lap. Sorry guys.
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Jan 6, 2012 00:57
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Someone was complainng before about putting stickers on the car. I shudder to think what the reaction would be I I turned up with a car with the wrong power to weight  (plus the fastest car I own is a c class hatch. I refuse to modify if I can help it. Stock is better!)
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Jan 6, 2012 01:02
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Hahahah the little Mazdaspeed3 almost comes out on top of a Ferrari and a Corvette.
VERTiG0 fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Jan 6, 2012 |
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Jan 6, 2012 01:07
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I don't know if any of you are checking the forums now but I'll be back in a bit.
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Jan 6, 2012 03:24
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34/1000ths of a second. gently caress me
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Jan 6, 2012 04:35
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VERTiG0 posted:34/1000ths of a second. gently caress me Fun night :-) I've never had Forza online go that smoothly.
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Jan 6, 2012 05:03
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mattdizzleZ28 posted:Could someone direct me to the AUGR thread? I checked the OP and searched and couldn't find the car build info. I was invited to my first ever goon game and had no car to race. http://www.jonathonbarton.net/index.php/goonspec/goonspec-series-schedule/
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Jan 6, 2012 05:06
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Keket posted:Add me on Xbox and ill give you a hand sometime, gt keketcat TannhauserGate posted:tldr- 1) Can you drive? I'm not bad, I think. I'm in the top 30% of rival times whenever I try 'em and clock a 1:43 around the Top Gear track. 2) Can you drive without assists? I drive A class with no cars, and some S class cars, with no assists. I turn TCS on for most S class and all R1+ cars, I have a bit of a lead foot that leads me into trouble exiting corners. I use sim steering since I use the MS wireless wheel. 3) Can you powerslide? Not on purpose.  I've gotten adept at keeping myself OUT of powerslides through tuning and countersteer but I guess I need to learn otherwise now. My fav cars tend to be Lotuses, which have a bit of a bite to them on the exit.The rest are instructions I'll hopefully by able to follow. Thanks for the tips. I was actually pretty sorely disappointed that Forza 4 didn't introduce racing tutorials - it'd be cool to have a virtual driving guide/critic, or interactive modes that use telemetry on replays to give you advice. ("you didn't brake enough", "too little throttle", "too slow here", etc)
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Jan 6, 2012 05:47
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ColdPie posted:Fun night :-) I've never had Forza online go that smoothly. It really is a much better experience. I had more fun in our 3-4 man lobby than I've had in all the public matches I tried earlier. (and motherfuckers aren't ramming me into corners all day)
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Jan 6, 2012 05:56
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Had a few beers and I ordered the CSR shifters for my Fanatec. What do you do for cars with 7 gears?
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Jan 6, 2012 06:03
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Ringo Star Get posted:Had a few beers and I ordered the CSR shifters for my Fanatec. Same thing you do with real life 7-geared cars. Use the paddles. 
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Jan 6, 2012 06:06
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Ringo Star Get posted:Had a few beers and I ordered the CSR shifters for my Fanatec. Believe it or not, high end super cars just have paddle shifters and don't have clutches either.
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Jan 6, 2012 06:14
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Ringo Star Get posted:Had a few beers and I ordered the CSR shifters for my Fanatec. I was going to say something about the new 911 with a seven-speed and a real stick but then I remembered that this is Forza 
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Jan 6, 2012 06:17
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Sorry for only being around for 2 races last night, but my Fanatec gave up AGAIN for gently caress's sake. I told Fanatec that the problem is definetely with the wheel as the problem would kind of go away for 10 mins if I unplugged and replugged the pedal cable to the wheel, but they saw that as a problem with the pedal's PCB. So they sent me a new one, I fitted it and as usual it worked fine with USB on the PC but not directly to the wheel. This is a pain.
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Jan 6, 2012 12:42
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IOwnCalculus posted:I was going to say something about the new 911 with a seven-speed and a real stick but then I remembered that this is Forza They hosed up CVT's too, but that's ok because CVT's are poo poo and I can't feel the shifts. I'm just happy I can simulate a Powerglide for my drag cars. Low and high, gently caress other gears.
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Jan 6, 2012 14:04
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I have been awol from the Wednesday night races due to Star Wars and generally being busy. I also changed my Gamertag back to Kiba Stryker which all my halo buddies came to miss after the GT change last year. So if you see me online in Forza dont be afraid to invite, I am no random pubbie that slipped into the club.
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Jan 6, 2012 14:46
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VikingSkull posted:I'm just happy I can simulate a Powerglide for my drag cars. Low and high, gently caress other gears. Do you just adjust the first 2 gears to take up the entire powerband, and ignore the other 4? I've always sucked at drag because of rowing through gears, if this is the way to do it, I might have to try it again.
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Jan 6, 2012 15:36
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LiquidRain posted:Thanks, I'll do that this weekend and/or when I've gotten over this cold. Glad I could help. There are other ways to learn drift, but in my schema, just get on that accelerator and flare out the back end. If you build up a lead or find a nice open spot to practice during a race just jam on the gas and have some fun. If you're a Lotus driver, brilliant. As someone said you don't have to have a massive engine if you have a super light car. At this stage you might benefit from practicing gas-pedal steering, if you don't already know it. You can tube up how Schumacher and Senna would dial their car almost to the point of understeer, and in a corner they'd power over so they used the accelerator as much as the steering to get the car around. If you need any help seeing how that works, take the Senna-approved NSX for a spin around Suzuka. This technique should work beautifully with Lotuses. Again, it's something that will greatly improve your general car control while getting you ready to drift, which is the point of my layout. GOD IS BED posted:Do you just adjust the first 2 gears to take up the entire powerband, and ignore the other 4? I've always sucked at drag because of rowing through gears, if this is the way to do it, I might have to try it again. Don't you have to have a really wide torque band to make that work? From what I've tried to learn your gear shift is based on keeping your torque up, using the fewest gears necessary. I'd think this is why powerglide works best with old musclecars who tend to peak early in the band and fall off gently toward high RPMs. If you have a modern turbo setup, you need tons of gears because of the narrow late peak.
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Jan 6, 2012 17:38
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Low-gear-count automatics, especially the 'glide, are popular in drag racing for one big reason: durability, followed very shortly by cost. When you want to hold up to 1000hp for pass after pass after pass, you want nice big gears and a very simple system, which compared to any modern transmission, a two or three speed automatic is. They're also lighter than modern automatics, and much cheaper. This is one area Forza still has a big problem. It's not like drag racers don't want to keep their engines near peak power too - but since high gearcounts didn't exist until recently for drag racing (and even those are extremely expensive, like a Lenco box) they had to find other solutions. The one they came up with? High-stall torque converters. To grossly simplify things, a torque converter has an RPM where it stops slipping. On a normal car this is usually somewhere near 1200-1800 RPM. A mild street/strip converter may raise this to 2200-2800 RPM, whereas a full race setup will go much higher - Summit shows that you can get a torque converter for a powerglide that stalls at 8000RPM. What that means is with a stall like that, when you mash the gas, the engine will go to 8000RPM near-instantaneously - and with the black magic that only an automatic can handle, it will stay there until the vehicle is moving fast enough so that the input shaft is actually also turning at 8000RPM. So where does Forza fail at this? It models all transmissions as clutched, stick-shifted manuals. It does not properly simulate torque converters, sequential boxes, or anything else. The only way it could model something like that 8000RPM stall would be to just treat it as clutch slip, instead of torque multiplication.
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Jan 7, 2012 01:40
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If you are having issues with multiplayer, please be sure to respond to this thread; http://forums.forzamotorsport.net/forums/permalink/5107230/5107131/ShowThread.aspx#5107131 The FM4 devs are reading it and collecting data from our responses.
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Jan 7, 2012 02:13
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The End posted:Recipe for hilarity Sir I accept your challenge!   
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Jan 7, 2012 03:01
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Captain Hair, I would very much like that paint design.  If you could tell me what to search for on the store front, that would be appreciated. 
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Jan 7, 2012 03:19
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Is that my MOON Eyes vinyl? That sure would be neat
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Jan 7, 2012 03:29
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Its not yours I'm afraid, the MOON vinyl is one of the only ones I've made. But yeah if anyone wants it add me at "Captain Hair57" and I'll send it over, it'll be a bit more bare as some company logos aren't mine, but if I send it it'll be unlocked thus you can stick your own on (and your own number). I've spent all night on forza and somehow only used the pinto... I need to mess around with the Alfa next. EDIT: VVV Brew Dog beers and Karma Coffee are on almost all my cars nowadays
Captain Hair fucked around with this message at 05:33 on Jan 7, 2012 |
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Jan 7, 2012 03:40
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Captain Hair posted:Its not yours I'm afraid, the MOON vinyl is one of the only ones I've made. ISCI made me look twice and notice the elephant. That made me really happy. I slap that thing on pretty much everything I drive (of course I'm pretty biased).
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Jan 7, 2012 04:47
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I got a wheel. Oh god I'm a horrible driver.
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Jan 7, 2012 10:56
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IOwnCalculus posted:Low-gear-count automatics, especially the 'glide, are popular in drag racing for one big reason: durability, followed very shortly by cost. When you want to hold up to 1000hp for pass after pass after pass, you want nice big gears and a very simple system, which compared to any modern transmission, a two or three speed automatic is. They're also lighter than modern automatics, and much cheaper. Thanks for this informative post. Fun fact: the only videogame to ever model an automatic transmission properly was Konami's Enthusia, on the PS2. Which I thought was much better than GT4.
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Jan 7, 2012 11:01
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IOwnCalculus posted:Low-gear-count automatics, especially the 'glide, are popular in drag racing for one big reason: durability, followed very shortly by cost. When you want to hold up to 1000hp for pass after pass after pass, you want nice big gears and a very simple system, which compared to any modern transmission, a two or three speed automatic is. They're also lighter than modern automatics, and much cheaper. Yeah it's not accurate by any means, I just like telling pubbies that I have a 2 speed in my car. It's weird though, if you spend some time fiddling with the gears and final drive you can get a 2 speed to be just about as fast as a normal transmission, you just have to know what the rev band is for each car. Like was said it's helpful if the torque band is wide. Usually when I shift into high, it starts out at 3,000ish RPM which puts me right in the torque on a lot of the cars. Some of the Hemis or big block cars like it a bit lower, though, say 2000 or so. The key is knowing the powerband of your car and spending time adjusting your ratios. The real bonus is the limited wheelspin generated by having such a big rear end first gear. Also, yeah, I just adjust the first two gears out and ignore the rest. Manual shifting works well, but if you leave it on auto make sure you leave a little breathing room on high gear or it will quick shift through the rest of the gears and gently caress your time up. It only works "well" with manual shift, if you use auto shift by its nature you have to leave a few revs on the table at the top end. Seizure Meat fucked around with this message at 14:15 on Jan 7, 2012 |
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Jan 7, 2012 14:10
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Not to mention everyone (including T10) seems to think a half or 1 mile race is preferred.1320 please!
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Jan 7, 2012 15:29
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Also, why can't I change my final drive with a stock trans if I have a racing diff?
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Jan 7, 2012 16:15
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So my pictures on the Forza site just magically reappeared, here's a couple pics that pretty much sum up Wednesday's race for me: Lap 2  Lap 3  Lap 4  Lap 5 I finally started to get it  What I learned: I never liked Sedona Full, and I REALLY don't like it on reverse. Turn 2 is just the worst. Still had lots of fun though, hopefully I can do that more.
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Jan 7, 2012 17:31
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speedtek posted:So my pictures on the Forza site just magically reappeared, here's a couple pics that pretty much sum up Wednesday's race for me: Oh man, you and me both. It seems every third or fourth lap, I'd completely forget how to turn, and have a couple of "oh poo poo!" moments as I tried not to plow into the back of someone else. I did enjoy the challenge, but I'm glad we don't race that track too often.
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Jan 7, 2012 18:14
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VikingSkull posted:Also, why can't I change my final drive with a stock trans if I have a racing diff? Because Turn 10 doesnt know how cars work and made it a transmission option. Cry for help from new AUGR member: Am i doing this "American iron" thing wrong? I took a stock 2002 trans am and did the math, with the horsepower the car makes and all the useless parts i can tack on (18 inch widest wheels) im still about 80 pounds away from the minimum weight, and cant install braking or chassis upgrades because that makes it even lighter. And with no anti rollbar upgrades or brakes im worried about my ability to race cleanly without taking fellow goon racers out. 320 X 11.4 = ~3700 pounds. All stock parts with giant wheels and bodykits (which make it much slower than stock, btw) only bring it up to 3630. Meanwhile someone in a C6 Z06 is going to cream me.
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Jan 7, 2012 20:10
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VikingSkull posted:Also, why can't I change my final drive with a stock trans if I have a racing diff? Probably because they thought "well, the diffs already have the option of changing when they lock. The sport transmission doesn't have anything aside from shifting different from stock, add final drive to that" Even though it doesn't make any sense. Sport diffs should change final drive, and race diffs should change when the diff locks up.
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Jan 7, 2012 21:56
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mattdizzleZ28 posted:Cry for help from new AUGR member: I'm running into similar issues with my Nova SS. The minimum weight seems really high.
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Jan 7, 2012 22:27
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Cojawfee posted:Probably because they thought "well, the diffs already have the option of changing when they lock. The sport transmission doesn't have anything aside from shifting different from stock, add final drive to that" Even though it doesn't make any sense. Sport diffs should change final drive, and race diffs should change when the diff locks up. Could someone explain how a differential works in simple retard terms because I can't seem to get my head around the magic and it's the one tuning section i still have no idea what it effects or how also what's the difference between 1 way and 1.5 and 2 way diffs and whatever??
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Jan 7, 2012 22:30
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bich posted:Could someone explain how a differential works in simple retard terms because I can't seem to get my head around the magic and it's the one tuning section i still have no idea what it effects or how I don't have the complete answer, but I do have a neat video on differentials: http://www.wimp.com/differentialsteering/ Hopefully that's right - I'm doing this on my iPod and hopefully edited in the right standard address.
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Jan 7, 2012 22:51
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EDIT: Oh you fucker ^^^ same video too. This should help! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYAw79386WI So now lets imagine a bitchin camaro, supercharged and with just zillions of tourque. When you do a sweet burnout your wheels spin with lack of traction. The diff trys to balance is out by slowing down the wheel that has grip on the road so that your car slows down and the spinning wheel can get some grip itself. Essentially this means an open (standard) diff will slow down your 1 wheel to give the opposite wheel grip. Which means you waste some of your power in favour of grip. Now with a locked diff both wheels spin at full power at all times, regardless of grip. So its max power and zero grip. So in the sweet burnout when one of the wheels loses grip the wheel WITH grip will keep on going, making your car veer off to the side. So for the most part its a power Vs grip balance. Where the diff settings come in with Forza is that it lets you choose just how much grip must be lost on 1 wheel before the diff kicks in and slows the other wheel down. Another thing to consider is that if a wheel is off the group it has no grip, meaning the diff will slow down your other wheel. So if you go over the rumble strips your wheel bounces up and down making your diff go on/off/on/off over and over, slowing you down. With a locked diff the wheel NOT on the rumble strip will keep going at full power meaning you lose less speed. Then the more advanced options let you choose when the diff kicks in for braking and acceleration seperatly. Personally I tend not to mess with them, but why not try a few laps of maple with the diff locked/unlocked and you should get a feel for the difference. Alternativley, what I posted is a load of bollocks and perhaps more confusing than need be. I'm pretty sure on a Mini engine the final drive has nothing to do with the diff so I'm out of my depth a bit here.
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Jan 7, 2012 22:56
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| # ? Apr 29, 2024 12:13 |
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^^^ The final drive has everything to do with the differential. The engine spins at a certain RPM this goes to the transmission via the clutch. The gears attached to the clutch spin at the same rate as the engine, the gears that mesh with those spin at a faster or slower rate depending on the gear ratio. These gears spin the drive shaft. The drive shaft spins a gear (maybe a worm gear) at the differential. The differential has another gear that spins some more things that sends power to the wheels. The gear on the differential that is turned by the drive shaft is called the final drive. This is ultimately what determines how fast you can accelerate and what your top speed is.. This is what people mean when they say they have 4.10 gears or 3.10 gears. For every four turns of the drive shaft, your final drive (and thus your wheels) spins ten times. Final drive is basically a balance between acceleration and top speed. If you have a final drive that turns less times per spin of the drive shaft, you have a higher acceleration. If you have a final drive that spins more times per spin of the drive shaft, you have a higher top speed. So if you have a 1.1 final drive, you accelerate like crazy, but you might have a top speed of 50mph. If you have a final drive of 1.20, you might have a top speed (top speed in this case meaning theoretically how fast you would go if your engine could top out in final gear) of 200mph, but you would never get there. You'd probably just stall the engine immediately. -------- Differentials are confusing. With a regular differential (not a limited slip), the drive shaft sends power to the diff and the diff says "Here wheels, take some power." The wheel with the least traction (the one that is easiest to spin) takes the most power. This is most easily visualized by having your car stuck in the mud. One tire is in thick mud that is harder to spin, the other tire is in watery mud and the tire spins easily. The drive shaft sends power to the differential which sends power to the wheels. The wheel stuck in thick mud tries to spin but is having trouble, the tire in the loose mud starts up easily and starts spinning. Since the differential has no way to lock, the loose wheel takes all of the power and the stuck wheel gets none. So the wheel you want to be turning (the one that could grab into the thick mud and get the car moving) has no way to get power, and the wheel you want to stop (that is just kicking mud everywhere) has all of the power. A locked diff (or a splined diff) fixes this by locking the wheels together, no matter what, the wheels will always spin. This is bad, because you would never be able to turn. You really only want locked diffs for offroad vehicles and drag racers. An off road vehicle locks the diffs when it is in a spot where one wheel might lose traction (or be in the air) but you don't really need to turn. A drag racer locks the diff because you never need to turn while drag racing, so you want both wheels to have the same power. A Limited Slip Differential (LSD) fixes this by locking when one wheel spins a certain amount faster than another wheel. When you first launch, one wheel might break traction first and in an open diff, this wheel will continue spinning and the other wheel will just slowly trundle along. An LSD will lock the diff once one wheels spins a bit more than the other to keep the car moving forward. When the wheels spin at the same rate, it opens up again. While you turn, you want the diff open because the outside wheel has to spin more than the inside wheel. The difference with an LSD is if you mash the gas in the turn, one wheel might lose traction and the diff will lock to keep you going forward. You can see this sometimes when a car is moving fast and starts turning, the inside wheel starts smoking because the diffs locked and now it has to spin at the same rate as the outside wheel, but that is too fast for what it needs. Cojawfee fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Jan 7, 2012 |
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Jan 7, 2012 23:22
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