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Binary Badger posted:Great deal, but every other review says they heat up a lot. Nothing a Dremel can't fix, though. Maybe Linksys dropped a hint to the distributors that they're either EOLing this or getting ready to rev the hardware like they did with the 4300. If this heat issue is enough of a defect to impact performance, why would they not be made to issue a recall. I don't believe you're supposed to be permitted to sell defective products.
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Jan 8, 2012 00:35
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Wheelchair Stunts posted:If this heat issue is enough of a defect to impact performance, why would they not be made to issue a recall. I don't believe you're supposed to be permitted to sell defective products. The entire purpose of this thread is to modify defective products so that they are able to do what the advertising says on the box. The only routers on the market which are not defective out of the box are the Netgear ones.
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Jan 8, 2012 01:15
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Devian666 posted:The entire purpose of this thread is to modify defective products so that they are able to do what the advertising says on the box. The only routers on the market which are not defective out of the box are the Netgear ones. I meant defect in terms of a manufacturing defect. This is also how most defects are referred to in the context of a recall. Thermal issues that can cause damage to the product or potentially even worse are a different beast from "Wah, I don't have QoS." Protip: I am all for third-party modification or I wouldn't be here.
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Jan 8, 2012 01:18
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Wheelchair Stunts posted:I meant defect in terms of a manufacturing defect. This is also how most defects are referred to in the context of a recall. Thermal issues that can cause damage to the product or potentially even worse are a different beast from "Wah, I don't have QoS." When I say defect I mean design defect, which is far more serious than a manufacturing defect. The linksys routers are manfactured to their design. My Linksys ADSL 2+ modem got so hot they all the writing evapourated from the top surface of it. e: If I wasn't so busy I could file a complaint under consumer protection laws that would see Cisco receiving a serious fine. Devian666 fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Jan 8, 2012 |
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Jan 8, 2012 01:24
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Devian666 posted:When I say defect I mean design defect, which is far more serious than a manufacturing defect. The linksys routers are manfactured to their design. I think I mixed my defects up. You seem to get the picture and life is good. I now return you to your regularly scheduled programming.
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Jan 8, 2012 01:36
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I have a linksys e1000 v2 and I was having NAT issues in my and my roommates xboxes so I flashed dd-wrt onto it, enabled UPnP and now the NAT issues are gone, but now whenever I try to play any games online its really laggy, almost unplayable when before there were connection issues, but no lag problems. Any ideas on how to fix this?
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Jan 8, 2012 02:12
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dxt posted:I have a linksys e1000 v2 and I was having NAT issues in my and my roommates xboxes so I flashed dd-wrt onto it, enabled UPnP and now the NAT issues are gone, but now whenever I try to play any games online its really laggy, almost unplayable when before there were connection issues, but no lag problems. Any ideas on how to fix this? Try installing the latest svn build, then reset: ftp://ftp.dd-wrt.com/others/eko/BrainSlayer-V24-preSP2/2011/12-20-11-r18024/broadcom_K26/dd-wrt.v24-18024_NEWD-2_K2.6_openvpn_small.bin No warranty etc.
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Jan 8, 2012 03:02
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NOTinuyasha posted:Try installing the latest svn build, then reset: I forgot to reset settings to factory default after I flashed dd-wrt on. everything seems to be working fine for now, a little slower than the factory firmware but that seems to be pretty normal for this router. Though if that firmware is supposed to be faster I would give it a shot.
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Jan 8, 2012 22:05
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Setup: Linksys WRT54GL hooked up by ethernet cable to my PC and wirelessly to my mom's pc across the house. Router worked fine out of the box even with all my torrenting and gaming needs I had no crashes or loss of connection, I may have updated the firmware off of the Linksys website. Other than that, the only thing I set up was a password for connecting to the network and I may have set up some minor things like UPNP. But I couldn't really say what I set up on it since it's been so long. Problem: Last night I reinstalled COD:MW2 and noticed my nat settings were STRICT so I couldn't connect to any games. I looked up guides on how to get my nat settings open on a linksys router and none of them were really 1:1 to what my 192.168.1.1. settings page had so I kinda just winged it. I believe I disabled dhcp, enabled DMZ (probably hosed this up) and maybe a few other things. Everything seemed to work fine and my nat settings now said OPEN in game. I could connect to games etc everything was great. I believe that was when I hosed with the DMZ setting when I noticed I hadn't completed that step on the guide. then I tried to save and it didn't seem to ever bring me back to 198.168.1.1. it just never stopped loading it but I didn't really pay any attention to that. I decided to restart my pc because my video editor was running poorly, and when I started it back up, to my surprise I couldn't connect to any websites and I couldn't even connect to 192.168.1.1. At that point I didn't know what the gently caress to do. I tried powering on and off, and eventually I decided to just reset my modem, get to 192.168.1.1. and reset to factory defaults. Which I did, then I updated my firmware once again. To my surprise however, I could now get to 192.168.1.1. but I could STILL not get to any webpages. As of now, it is still like that. What the hell is going on? Help?
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Jan 9, 2012 01:27
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Well you have hosed things up, but you already know that. The most likely problem is that you switched off DHCP. This means that your computer probably does not have an IP address. This is critical unless you have set a static address on your computer such as 192.168.1.2. Once you correct this you may need to reboot a few times to get it working again (if you're running Windows 7).
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Jan 9, 2012 02:13
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Devian666 posted:I have my VoIP gear behind the router as well, even though you're supposed to have it between the modem and router according to the documentation. The thing is with VoIP working during the disconnect that's a little puzzling. Putting the adapter behind the router seems to have solved the problem. I am no longer having the disconnects anymore and the d-link router seems fine. Thanks Devian, fagalicious, for the help!
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Jan 9, 2012 02:44
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Devian666 posted:Well you have hosed things up, but you already know that. I am running Windows 7. Just to clarify and save me the trouble of switching between my modem and router several times to try to figure out what you want me to do can you make it step by step and as clear as possible for me. Thanks. edit: forgot to add, I don't think I have a static address but I may have set one up a long time ago. Edit2: Like I said, I reset the router already a few times. I've reset it to factory defaults. DHCP is enabled and still I can't connect to any webpages. I've restarted my pc and power cycled the router too many times to count now. What the gently caress... Dave Mustard fucked around with this message at 08:28 on Jan 9, 2012 |
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Jan 9, 2012 03:07
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Dave Mustard posted:I am running Windows 7. You need to hold the reset button down on the router for about 10 seconds, not just press it. I hope that solves your problem.
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Jan 9, 2012 11:45
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redreader posted:You need to hold the reset button down on the router for about 10 seconds, not just press it. I hope that solves your problem. Actually, I did that from the beginning. This is a real kick in the rear end, I guess the thread title is no joke because after doing absolutely nothing different and getting no results it spontaneously started working after I walked away for a few minutes. Either way, thanks for the help guys.
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Jan 9, 2012 12:07
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Windows 7 has a number of strange rituals that you have to perform. They include rebooting and clicking on the network icon to bring up the connection panel. Then some random waiting. When you change the network settings Win7 seems to go through a number of strange processes, then when you next reboot it shouldn't have the same problems as it will remember the settings. Maybe one day Microsoft will release a version of windows that is compatible with the internet.
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Jan 9, 2012 12:25
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Devian666 posted:Windows 7 has a number of strange rituals that you have to perform. They include rebooting and clicking on the network icon to bring up the connection panel. Then some random waiting. i have a protip for ya. it's not windows.
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Jan 9, 2012 23:32
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Nitr0 posted:i have a protip for ya. Do elaborate, I always like learning things.
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Jan 9, 2012 23:47
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Dave Mustard posted:I am running Windows 7. Do a 30/30/30 reset. Here's a step by step. 1. Unplug your modem. 2. Press and hold the reset button, count to 30 seconds 3. Still holding the reset button, unplug router's power cord, count to 30 seconds 4. Still holding the reset button, plug the power cord back into the router, count to 30 seconds. 5. Let go of the reset button 6. Plug modem back in.
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Jan 9, 2012 23:59
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Also, make sure your ip and dns settings are both set to "obtain automatically" when the router gets reset.
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Jan 10, 2012 00:08
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Devian666 posted:Do elaborate, I always like learning things. Not much to elaborate on. You don't have to reboot to bring up the "connection panel" Changing network settings just work for me. No waiting and no "strange processes"
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Jan 10, 2012 01:23
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Nitr0 posted:Not much to elaborate on. You don't have to reboot to bring up the "connection panel" When you get the above problem opening the connection panel does not solve it.
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Jan 10, 2012 02:29
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What the gently caress is the "connection panel"
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Jan 10, 2012 03:55
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New network setup in my house will take place and I need help: I'm running ethernet in the walls to every room, so I'm going to need ~20-30 ports. I'm no ops guy but I figure buying a Cisco 24 port switch and hooking it up to my Linksys E4200 router will be suitable. Please correct me if I'm being a noob. Now the area that I need major help in: Because of a recent hardware upgrade at my office and my childish nature, I am now in possession of 9 Dell PowerEdge servers and some power equipment. I would like to get a rack so that I could run them in a designated room of my basement. I am unfortunately unaware of how rack mounting works. I'm looking to purchase a simple 4-post rack with wheels. Are all racks standard in width? How do servers attach to them/what other equipment (shelves, etc, to hold the servers up) besides the rack will I need? Is there anything that I need to worry about given my overall lack of hardware knowledge/experience? Thanks. PS. If you feel like it, advise on a good managed gbit switch with >20 ports (possibly rack mountable cause that would be kewl looking) Kaepora Gaebora fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Jan 10, 2012 |
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Jan 10, 2012 05:21
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Server racks are all the same width. Audio/telco/whatever else racks may be different, I don't know. Are you sure you want those servers? Older servers tend to run 1-2.5 amps a piece depending on what's in them and what they're doing, that could put you over the 20a most outlets offer, not to mention the power bill and noise. Edit: Any 24-port Netgear switch will be fine.
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Jan 10, 2012 05:24
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Hm. Not sure how old they are... three of them are 2850s, one is 2950, and the rest are 1850. I'm probably not going to run them all. I just want to have a cool setup to show my friends and marvel at (Yes, I'm apparently an excited child). Power consumption and noise are not concerns. As far as outlets are concerned, I can have as many outlets/anything as I need built into this room as it is part of a major home renovation I am doing. How about other equipment besides the rack—to actually put the servers into it? Also, now that I think about it, is there any reason to get a managed switch if it will just be plugged into a router? Kaepora Gaebora fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Jan 10, 2012 |
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Jan 10, 2012 05:35
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There are other things like rail kits that can make handling the servers a bit easier. If you need parts you should be able to order them directly from Dell. For home use, even with a number of servers, you probably wouldn't notice any performance difference using a managed switch in conjunction with a router. I would only think about it if you want easy management of port mirroring, VLANs or more QoS options. The other way of looking at it is if you are getting a 24 port switch why not get a managed switch. Devian666 fucked around with this message at 10:54 on Jan 10, 2012 |
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Jan 10, 2012 09:36
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Kaepora Gaebora posted:Power consumption and noise are not concerns. I still suggest you look up the power usage. I misspoke when I said "outlet", I meant per breaker. Most breakers are 20a, but I suppose in your new place it could be 30a. It's not uncommon for servers to use a poo poo ton of energy when they all come on at once, like after the power goes out. 2U servers like the 2850 could use way more than 2a each. You don't need a managed switch. If you wanted vlans or mirrored ports then I guess a managed switch would be useful, but a managed switch isn't going to be faster and QoS on your internal network is probably not useful. Your router will do any/all of the important network stuff. I don't know poo poo about mini-racks but I'm sure they exist. You'd need the rails (the part that bolts into the rack, the servers should have rails bolted to them that slide into the bolt-on rack rails) that came with the server but you could probably ebay replacements. They'll be model specific. Any 24 port switch is going to come with rack ears. That's all you'll need for one giant, loud, expensive pile of servers that you'll never need to use.
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Jan 10, 2012 10:51
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Newegg's got a TRENDnet 8 port gig switch on sale for $30 if you need such a thing. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-_-33156251-L0E Use the promo code EMCNJJN25.
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Jan 10, 2012 19:47
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Ninja Rope posted:one giant, loud, expensive pile of servers that you'll never need to use. Exactly what I'm going for  Power consumption is still not a concern since as you've probably figured, I'm not totally serious about this and most likely won't be running all/most of my servers all the time. And I will speak with the construction people about power/noise anyway. Thanks a lot for the help. I figured I wouldn't need a managed switch. My router does VLANs anyway if i ever decide to make my network more complicated than it should be.
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Jan 11, 2012 00:52
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Kaepora Gaebora posted:Exactly what I'm going for (Though I have an extra 24 port 10/100 switch with a gigabit uplink I may hook up to all my "cold" ports, that's really only ever going to be used if I host another LAN).
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Jan 11, 2012 01:28
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I've got a very slow DSL connection (1.5 Mbps). I lose a little bit of that with my current router, a Buffalo Airstation G-band router (down to about 1.2 Mbps). Would there be a noticeable difference if I were to get a good N-band router? By that, I mean is .3 Mbps worth the expense?
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Jan 11, 2012 01:34
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daveincognito posted:I've got a very slow DSL connection (1.5 Mbps). I lose a little bit of that with my current router, a Buffalo Airstation G-band router (down to about 1.2 Mbps). Would there be a noticeable difference if I were to get a good N-band router? By that, I mean is .3 Mbps worth the expense? For most connections you will lose around 20% of the connection speed just for error correction, etc. So 1.5 Mbps -> 1.2 Mbps actual download speed. A new router might not help with total download speed but it could help with handling multiple connections and connection reliability (if these are actually problems that you have). So the answer is probably no in this case.
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Jan 11, 2012 03:25
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Echoing Devian here, I suffered with a 1.5Mbps DSL line for years until recently. Indeed, even with a good modem and router I never saw faster than 149KB/s or so (right where the figures land). N won't do anything G won't.. the difference is only in router-to-device speeds (100Mbps+ vs 54Mbps), and you're bottlenecked at the modem to 1.5 Mbps. Maybe.. put the modem into bridged mode and let the router handle the PPPoE/A authentication if you want to be able to say you're milking your setup for all it's worth.
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Jan 11, 2012 03:57
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Oh well. I'll wait until money's a little less tight and then get a better connection. Thanks!
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Jan 11, 2012 04:25
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My relatives have a pretty big house (4 floors) and I have been tasked to help them setup their home network. If they want wireless coverage in the whole house, what are my options? Ideally the solution is to have only one SSID and password. If someone's laptop goes out of range of RouterA then it seamlessly connects to RouterB without requiring the user to do anything. I've been reading about setting up multiple routers with WDS. Is that what I need to do? On that note, what's the difference between setting up WDS on a router, an access point and a wireless bridge? Secx fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Jan 11, 2012 |
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Jan 11, 2012 21:59
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My tv/bluray/ps3/xbox are all in a separate room from my router. I now have a (Bricked, but will unbrick tonight hopefully) wireless-n 300mbps router. I want to buy a wireless-n 300Mbps bridge and this looks good but the ethernet ports are only 100Mbps, not 1Gb. What's the point of buying this thing? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833281007
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Jan 12, 2012 01:57
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Secx posted:My relatives have a pretty big house (4 floors) and I have been tasked to help them setup their home network. I have never really looked at WDS. It looks too complicated for what it achieves and performs the same function as wireless repeating. For four floors one wireless point is unlikely to work so two or three are likely to be needed. For best performance wired connection should be run between access points. Then you would have a wireless access point connected to a wired connection. Where you have overlapping wireless you may want different SSIDs to avoid problems. The non-wired option is have multiple wireless access points within range of each other set up as wireless repeaters. This significantly diminishes the wireless performance to half or less of the total bandwidth. Wireless bridging is effectively the same as wireless repeating except it is often used to connect two or more wired networks that are not physically connected. The real questions are do they really need wireless coverage anywhere and what will the wireless network be used for. These questions really need to be answered before designing a wireless network.
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Jan 12, 2012 02:39
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This is probably not "home" networking related but it's the closest thread I can find. I help run a LAN party, and we're trying to redo the cable bundles. Currently we've got long runs of Cat5 (cable lengths range from 5m to 20m) bound with plastic cable ties. These have been in use for the past 7 or so years without ever being redone. A significant percentage of cables in each bundle are damaged (5-10%) but because they're bound with cable ties we can't easily remove a single cable to replace it. Another problem is that we lay out the bundles and wind them by hand. The "feed" part of the cable tie has a habit of catching on table legs, other cables, clothing, or skin as you're coiling the bundle back up. Each bundle has a circumference of about 10cm at the thickest part, going to the width of four cat5 cables at the end. We need to bind them with something that will withstand a fair bit of wear and tear as they're moved around each month, plus it needs to be able to handle the changing circumference and be flexible enough to allow us to coil the bundles at the end of each event. Any suggestions on what we could use to keep these bundles together? I was considering lacing the cables together but I'm not sure what cord will be strong enough to withstand wear on something that will be constantly moved.
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Jan 12, 2012 10:40
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You can't use velcro strips like everyone else? Get the ones you can cut to length. Also you're not supposed to bundle too many Cat5 cables together like that due to interference. Cat5e and Cat6 each have higher ratings for bundling and I bet you could look up the details if you wanted.
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Jan 12, 2012 13:18
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Ephphatha posted:
Lacing will probably outlast the CAT5 jacket, and I recommend it. Big fan of that greybeard lost art. Hook and loop strips will get filthy on the floor and lose adhesion over time, cable ties are obviously out. It's no slower to add a cable to a laced harness than it is with cable ties, and more secure than with velcro. Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 13:27 on Jan 12, 2012 |
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Jan 12, 2012 13:25
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