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Docjowles posted:I can't imagine it would be THAT different from a standard American IPA; it's not like WLP001 is imparting huge yeast character or anything. You'd probably also need to go even more overboard on late/dry hops to account for the long lagering period. Or maybe lager for a while and then add dry hops.
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Jan 18, 2012 00:18
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Jo3sh posted:Or maybe lager for a while and then add dry hops. That's a good idea. The more I think about this the more I might do it. I'll add the dry hops when I transfer after lagering. I think Baltic Porter will be the next one on the to brew list after the IPL Noghri_ViR fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Jan 18, 2012 |
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Jan 18, 2012 01:21
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Jacobey000 posted:Two part-er Quoting for a new page - want to know if i need to go to the homebrew store tomorrow for keg supplies
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Jan 18, 2012 02:44
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Jacobey000 posted:Quoting for a new page - want to know if i need to go to the homebrew store tomorrow for keg supplies The poppets themselves look fine, but you might want to replace those O-rings, and give them a dab of keg lube.
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Jan 18, 2012 03:03
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Jacobey000 posted:Quoting for a new page - want to know if i need to go to the homebrew store tomorrow for keg supplies The infection part of the post: it's always tough to tell in photos, but nothing about that really screams infection to me. Kinda just looks like bubbles from you moving it around too much or something.
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Jan 18, 2012 03:47
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ordered designing great beers tonight thanks to a 20$ amazon gift card from my future mother-in-law. pretty psyched to get it.
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Jan 18, 2012 04:51
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Well, one poker night and most of my cinnamon vanilla porter is gone. I've decided on brewing a Weizenbock to take it's place, and I'd like some opinions on this mini-mash + extract recipe: http://hopville.com/recipe/1092699/weizenbock-recipes/weizenbock This is my first time using wheat in the mini-mash -- what are the pitfalls? I've included some rice hulls to help the sparge, but I feel like my mashing schedule might need to be more complicated than I've previously done. Do I have enough / too many hops? I've seen a lot of conflicting information on the typical IBU level.
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Jan 18, 2012 05:36
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I forgot to mention the Oxymoron used a bunch of noble hops, so it wasn't just your standard IPA recipe done with a lager yeast. Docjowles posted:Or schwarzbier! Well no, a schwarzbier is a pretty specific type of German lager. It uses dehusked carafa to get its dark brown-black color, which allows it to not have the chocolatey/roasty character you find in your typical porter or stout.
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Jan 18, 2012 13:12
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withak posted:They are usually called bottling buckets. You should be able to buy the spigots from any brewing supply place I think. You will need a way to drill a ~1" hole in an existing bucket if you want to just buy a spigot. I used a bottling bucket as a fermenter for my first year brewing. Worked great, until I got a round of infections I couldn't kick. Turns out the spigot has all sorts of nooks and crannies that collect gunk. If you use a spigoted bucket to ferment, disassemble and clean the spigot every time! (the standard spigot just pulls apart into 2 pieces)
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Jan 18, 2012 14:02
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jailbait#3 posted:I used a bottling bucket as a fermenter for my first year brewing. Worked great, until I got a round of infections I couldn't kick. Turns out the spigot has all sorts of nooks and crannies that collect gunk. If you use a spigoted bucket to ferment, disassemble and clean the spigot every time! (the standard spigot just pulls apart into 2 pieces) I pull mine apart after bottling, but only get: spigot (1), nut (1), rubber washer (2). How do you get the spigot apart. I've looked at it with this in mind, and didn't see anything.
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Jan 18, 2012 15:59
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I've got 20 gallons of delicious beer stockpiled, so now I would like to try something weird. I would eventually like to make an aged barleywine and a mead. BUT Is there anything I can make that will get close to 20% ABV and not need to be aged for many months before drinking? edit: whoops, double post.
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Jan 18, 2012 16:58
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Local Yokel posted:Is there anything I can make that will get close to 20% ABV and not need to be aged for many months before drinking? Not really. I'm not even sure ~20% ABV is readily doable for the home brewer. I'm sure it's possible, and maybe someone will have a link handy for posting, but I can't imagine it would be tasty 4 weeks or whatever from brew day. Heck, the 10% ABV quad I brewed took several months to settle in and approach its peak. One dodge is to brew a strong beer, wine, or cider, and then freeze-concentrate it (e.g., eisbier, applejack), and while that could get you comfortably above 20% ABV, it's not a fast process either.
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Jan 18, 2012 17:07
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Jo3sh posted:~20% ABV - maybe someone will have a link handy for posting http://www.northernbrewer.com/connect/2011/12/as-real-as-it-gets-19-beer/ Not exactly what you're looking for, but it's a place to start.
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Jan 18, 2012 17:26
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Cointelprofessional posted:http://www.northernbrewer.com/connect/2011/12/as-real-as-it-gets-19-beer/ Wow, that was faster than I thought - and a pretty cool article, too. So it looks like really high ABVs are possible. It also looks like it took some specialized tools and techniques, but nothing really out there. It still sounds like it will take some time to come together, though, and it also sounds so rich an ounce or so might be all you wanted.
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Jan 18, 2012 18:20
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I haven't listened to it in a long time so forgive my lack of details, but the Brewing Network had an episode of their clone show "Can You Brew It" featuring Dogfish 120. The recipe and process (which they got from Sam) was something totally retarded like feeding the fermenter a half pound of sugar every day for a month, but they did eventually get something approaching 20% ABV. I think they also decided it tasted like rear end, but it's doable 
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Jan 18, 2012 18:49
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If those little 7oz bottles were available to homebrewers I could see doing maybe a gallon or two batch of some absurdly high abv beer just to see what I could do, but I really doubt you'd want 12oz at a time and I don't want to go through all the hassle for just 8 bottles.
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Jan 18, 2012 18:58
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indigi posted:If those little 7oz bottles were available to homebrewers At least some brew shops carry nip bottles - I am pretty sure mine does, although it has been a while since I looked.
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Jan 18, 2012 19:11
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Maybe it's because I don't have my contacts in, but did anyone else really not pay attention to the perspective and think the dude had like a ten gallon flask?
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Jan 18, 2012 19:14
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There's a little forced perspective going on with the goony guy in the background, for sure.
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Jan 18, 2012 19:28
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Local Yokel posted:I pull mine apart after bottling, but only get: spigot (1), nut (1), rubber washer (2). How do you get the spigot apart. I've looked at it with this in mind, and didn't see anything. For a standard white-and-blue spigot, you hold the white plastic and yank the blue section out. This separates the spigot housing (white part, with threads) from the spigot valve (blue part with the handle and spout).
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Jan 19, 2012 00:52
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So who is planning on attending the NHC this year? This will be my first time but I'm already excited about it, registration opens on Feb 1st. I'm also going to enter some beers for the first time.
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Jan 19, 2012 04:43
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Quick question- I just bought a Bavarian Hefeweizen extract kit from Northern Brewer that I'm going to make today. The recipe instructions tell me: -At start of boil, put in hops and half the LME -At the 45min mark, put in the rest of the LME and the pack of DME Now, reading the reviews of this kit, a lot of people are saying that to get the color and taste closer to a true hefe, I shouldn't put the LME in (all of it) until the 45min mark. That would mean for 45min, all I've got boiling is water and hops, which seems pretty weird to me? Is it? This will only be my 3rd batch doing extract so really I have no idea.
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Jan 19, 2012 17:29
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I would follow the kit directions and put some of the extract in at the beginning and the rest at 45 minutes. Part of the equation of the hop extraction is the malt extract; if you don't have at least *some* in there, you won't get the hop character. Granted, a hefeweizen is a very mildly hopped beer, but I think you need something. It's true that getting a very pale beer from extract is challenging. If you follow the kit directions, you will probably get a beer that is a little darker than your favorite bottled version - but I think it will taste great anyway.
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Jan 19, 2012 17:49
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edit: beaten  I'd probably add the DME at 60 min, and the LME right at the end of the boil. They're right that boiling the extract for the full time will give you a noticeably darker beer, and (IIRC) LME is easier to scorch and darken. But if you don't give a poo poo about that just boil everything; it's not going to impact flavor just looks. You want to boil at least some extract. With just hops and water, you will get very poor hop utilization.
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Jan 19, 2012 17:51
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Ok, that makes sense. I'd like to keep it on the lighter side if I can, I've certainly noticed so far that regardless of taste you're going to get a dark brew from extract every time. I think I'll throw in half the DME at 60min, then pour all the rest in with the LME at 15.
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Jan 19, 2012 18:08
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chiz posted:we used to play Halo on Live I remember(amazingly).
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Jan 19, 2012 18:13
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Sirotan posted:Ok, that makes sense. I'd like to keep it on the lighter side if I can, I've certainly noticed so far that regardless of taste you're going to get a dark brew from extract every time. I think I'll throw in half the DME at 60min, then pour all the rest in with the LME at 15. Make sure you cut the flame and add the LME first cause the DME will explode over the top of your kettle if the wort's still near boiling. I learned that lesson the hard way, then forgot it and learned it again on my third brew.
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Jan 19, 2012 18:38
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indigi posted:Make sure you cut the flame and add the LME first cause the DME will explode over the top of your kettle if the wort's still near boiling. I learned that lesson the hard way, then forgot it and learned it again on my third brew. Thanks, I'll be sure to do that. This is my first time using a dry malt extract so I probably would have done the same thing!
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Jan 19, 2012 18:43
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Just under three weeks ago I brewed my first batch of homebrew. Until yesterday it sat in its bucket fermenting and resting. Upon opening it back up, the smell was really pleasant! No off aromas at all. One thing was a bit disconcerting though; the beer was very dark and very opaque to the point that seeing the lees caked on the bottom was impossible even shining a flashlight through it (the brew is pretty much impenetrable to light). It is a bock, so I suppose it makes sense that it would be dark, but is this opaque-ness normal? I'm gonna let it sit in the carboy for a day or two to let any gunk come out of suspension and then re-rack it to the bottling bucket for the finishing process. Hope it turns out!
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Jan 19, 2012 20:05
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Ratbones posted:is this opaque-ness normal? yes. yeast in suspension is cloudy. that, combined with the dark colour, has made your beer opaque. bottle conditioning, and then chilling the beer, causes the yeast to settle in the bottom of the bottle and can give a pretty transparent liquid, but when it's in the fermenter, no way.
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Jan 19, 2012 20:10
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Also larger volumes of liquid just look darker, due to physics and stuff  . It'll look significantly lighter in a pint glass.
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Jan 19, 2012 20:24
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Wow, you guys are fast. Thanks for putting my mind at ease. How do you guys go about racking the beer without disturbing the cake if you can't see it? I ended up discarding probably an inch worth of beer above the cake because I couldn't really tell where the lees were. I suppose I'd rather lose some beer than suck up a ton of swamp fuzz, but it was a bit distressing to see otherwise good beer go to waste.
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Jan 19, 2012 20:34
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Ratbones posted:Wow, you guys are fast. Thanks for putting my mind at ease. How do you guys go about racking the beer without disturbing the cake if you can't see it? I ended up discarding probably an inch worth of beer above the cake because I couldn't really tell where the lees were. I suppose I'd rather lose some beer than suck up a ton of swamp fuzz, but it was a bit distressing to see otherwise good beer go to waste. basically every racking cane has a tip on it so that it's not sucking liquid from the surface on the bottom of the chamber. discarding a bunch of beer because you got cloudy bits is dumb, it's just yeast, it's not gonna hurt anything and it will settle out later. the majority of the cake stays on the bottom even if you tip the bucket to suck up absolutely everything, it's just that the last stuff you suck out looks pretty gross.
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Jan 19, 2012 20:39
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mewse posted:basically every racking cane has a tip on it so that it's not sucking liquid from the surface on the bottom of the chamber. My first batch my buddy gave me a funnel with a removable screen. When I poured the wort in my fermenter and when I went to transfer to the bottling bucket I used it to filter out the hops/yeast. Dunno if that was actually the right thing to do or not, I figured since he gave it to me I was meant to use it... In the end I don't think it screwed up anything. 
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Jan 19, 2012 20:56
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i strain the wort when i pour into the primary, that's normal, you're removing the hops and the hot break and cold break. leaving an inch of beer in your fermenter because the siphon is sucking some yeast isn't a good thing tho why were you using a funnel when you transferred to the bottling bucket?
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Jan 19, 2012 20:59
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mewse posted:i strain the wort when i pour into the primary, that's normal, you're removing the hops and the hot break and cold break. Just to get the last few drops of beer from the carboy that were mixed with the gunk. And is it really necessary to strain it before primary? I don't have a strainer now that I bought my own kit.
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Jan 19, 2012 21:05
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I'll keep that in mind for batch #2. Thanks for your help!
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Jan 19, 2012 21:27
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Sirotan posted:Just to get the last few drops of beer from the carboy that were mixed with the gunk. And is it really necessary to strain it before primary? I don't have a strainer now that I bought my own kit. I don't strain at any point in the process and I have yet to have any solid particulate in my beers, it's just a matter of being careful with your siphon. As for dumping it into your bottle bucket...I wouldn't. I get people straining out hop cones into the primary, but using a funnel instead of siphoning into your bottle bucket increases oxygenation of the beer, which you don't really want when you're at the bottling stage.
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Jan 19, 2012 21:49
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Nvm, found it.
Prefect Six fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Jan 19, 2012 |
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Jan 19, 2012 21:51
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| # ? Apr 23, 2024 18:34 |
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Ratbones posted:I'll keep that in mind for batch #2. Thanks for your help! Also, if you're concerned about clearer beer, get yourself some Irish Moss and add 1 tsp to the boil at 15 minutes.
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Jan 19, 2012 22:18
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