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Trucks are an interesting market. First off, the T100 is an odd duck. It was too big to call a compact truck (though it's not much bigger than a modern Tacoma) but was still a decent bit smaller than the half-ton domestics or the modern Tundra. I would probably just go with KBB and see if you get any bites, unless that looks ridiculously low for your market. Second, you may want to strongly consider the current F150 with the V6. It actually gets better mileage than any of the V6 Rangers, and finding a four-cylinder extended cab Ranger is near-impossible. I know, I looked and I ended up settling for my single-cab. They supposedly exist but because of the extra weight, almost all extended-cabs get at least the 3.0 if not the 4.0. Finally...if you do go Ranger, realize that the truck has received no major changes since 1998, and very few minor ones since 2003. Parts are absolutely dirt goddamn cheap for these things so I would have a very hard time stomaching $12k for a Ranger, no matter how new / low-mile.
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Dec 27, 2011 05:08
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Well the new V6 Ecoboost is a bit out of my price range, but when I started looking a V6 F150 was on the top of the list. Did the 4.6l V6(either manual or auto) come in 4x4 ext or just regular? Either way in my area, I would argue a v6 150 is harder to find than an 4-banger Ranger. I have heard the 4.6l V8 is almost on par with the 4.0l v6 on the highway, though takes a bit of a hit in city driving (which is most of what I do). Gas isn't a "huge" deal for me, because most of my miles are reimbursed. I only get about ~16 mpg in my Toyota anyways. But to fill my base requirements (4x4, ext cab, less than ~30,000kmk, less than ~4 years old) I'm looking at around 20-22k for an F150, unless I remove 4x4 (have been thinking really hard as to whether or not I need 4x4) or up the KM to the ~80,000 range, in which case I feel I'm better off sticking with my Toyota. I probably could afford the price bump to an F150, but I'm really hesitant to spend that much. This sub-forum has broken me (or fixed me). Reggie Died fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Dec 27, 2011 |
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Dec 27, 2011 17:53
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I just have a general question. I'm planning on buying a new car within the next 6 or so months, and there are a lot of resources online about how to negotiate and how to find out the actual cost of the car and etc, but I can't find anything on other fees associated with buying a car. I would like to to what taxes I would have to pay and when, the costs of getting the tag and the licence plate etc. and anything else.
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Dec 27, 2011 18:01
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I AM JAMES FRANCO posted:I just have a general question. Look at your states DMV site, it'll have the car sales tax and cost of registration. There shouldn't be anything else really, the price you negotiate with the dealer needs to be the out the door price (not including the DMV stuff) sanchez fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Dec 27, 2011 |
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Dec 27, 2011 19:40
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Any words of advice on taking over a lease and buying out the vehicle? The vehicle in question is a very low milage V6 2010 RAV4. A woman my parents know recently had her license taken away (due to a disability) with about a year and half left on the lease. According to her, the remainder of the lease + buyout is $20k. My father has ginned himself up on this. In talking to one of his dealer buddies, he's convinced that I should be able to take over the lease and offer a buyout to complete the deal for on the order of $15-$16k. I'd prefer to handle this with a single payment and based on initial research, $15-16k sounds like it's a great deal. But I'm concerned about how to proceed. One of the stories I've read involved the current leasee negotiating the price and the buyer handing them a cashier's check for the amount and waiting 40 days which I'm not cool with at all. Another scenario I envision is taking over the lease and the company having no incentive to negotiate the buyout price. Is this as big of a deal as it seems to me? If I'm just hemming and hawing over a common transation, how is the best way for me to proceed to purchasing?
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Dec 27, 2011 19:43
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FileNotFound posted:Used cars are gamble unless you know about cars. Yeah you and I can walk away with some great deals. Or you can end up like my GF and pay 13k for 4 year old "Certified Preowned" Civic that doesn't even have power windows and had clearly been in a crash at some point in it's life - oh and her father helped her buy it. When we first met she was convinced that she got a great deal because the MSRP on that civic was over 20k when new! I know n8r chimed in already, but you're completely wrong. Used cars are only a gamble if you go in completely blind and uneducated. If you pay $13k for a 'certified pre-owned' Civic and complain that it doesn't have power windows, how the hell did you miss that before you bought it if it was such a dealbreaker? And if it's "clearly" been in a crash, how did you or your mechanic (you did take it to one, right?) not notice it before you signed papers? It seems that you're also putting an enormous weight on the burden of searching for a used car. If doing online research for three hours can save me thousands of dollars how is that possibly a bad thing? Seriously, determine the kind of car you want, do some research and narrow it down, see what's available, do more research so you know potential problem areas, go around and look at a few. Don't dismiss a car because it has a problem or two, but take it into account when deciding against other cars. Needing a car 'right away' is a bullshit excuse. Rent a car for a week. It's an investment of maybe a hundred dollars that will save you thousands as you find the right car. And if you're not knowledgeable about cars, BRING IT TO A MECHANIC WHO IS. Any dealer or private seller unwilling to let a mechanic look at it is hiding something and you should be smart enough to walk away in that case. If you don't have an OBDII scanner, your mechanic will. Even if you have to pay the mechanic every time you bring them a potential car, this will still be cheaper than buying a brand-new car.
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Dec 27, 2011 20:31
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I have a Miata that is requiring more and more attention as it's about to turn over 200k and the fact that I want to track it... hard. However, I need reliable transportation that isn't a scooter from 1981 or a 1994 Miata that is desperately wanting some bucket seats put into it. I'm looking at new 2012 Mazda2s. My financial situation isn't fantastic, but I only have student debt that I haven't started to pay back yet and I have a decent paying job for something that is part-time. I have 0 credit card debt and I've had a credit card for close to 5 years now with Bank of America. I'm planning on switching over to a credit union within a few weeks and should be able to leverage that for a loan for the car (2.79% for 48 or 60 months) or go through dealer financing if I can get .9% at 48 or 60 if my credit is good enough (a stretch). Best of all, I have positive cash flow and I am not spending money wildly as if it were going out of style. The reason I'm looking towards a new car is because I don't have to worry what mystery problems such as timing belts splitting on the freeways and whatnot. Is there anything I'm missing outside of not being anally violated by the dealer?
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Jan 12, 2012 06:24
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Phone posted:
There's a middle ground here. There is more than just "brand new" and "falling to pieces" for sale. If your financial situation isn't great, you're working part time, and you need to finance, wouldn't it be better if you got a slightly used car, maybe with 50k miles and a few years old? That will free up money for the repairs when you start taking your Miata to the track.
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Jan 12, 2012 14:51
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Well, that's somewhat of a good point; however, a lot of the B-segment cars and whatnot are holding their value extremely well which means that a 2008 Honda Fit with 60k on the clock has an asking price of $2000 off of the MSRP of a 2012 Fit. The slightly used car market isn't that great right now, and diving off into the early 00's can get some real gems but also has the gamble of the PO's care of the car and financing if it's available. That's why I was looking towards new more than anything.
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Jan 12, 2012 15:06
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Phone posted:Well, that's somewhat of a good point; however, a lot of the B-segment cars and whatnot are holding their value extremely well which means that a 2008 Honda Fit with 60k on the clock has an asking price of $2000 off of the MSRP of a 2012 Fit. The slightly used car market isn't that great right now, and diving off into the early 00's can get some real gems but also has the gamble of the PO's care of the car and financing if it's available. The asking price is probably high because the owner is. There are plenty of cars priced more closely to reality and a bit of haggling will get you down to a fair price. If you're set on getting a new car because you want it, that's your choice. BFC is not usually going to recommend it, especially if you have to finance it.
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Jan 12, 2012 15:18
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I believe most Korean cars and certain American cars are still depreciating like rocks, so that might be a good place to start.
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Jan 12, 2012 15:31
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This is from November: Phone posted: I saw this thread and checked out used Fit prices around me. 2007 Sport Manual and 109k on the clock... $9k 2007 Sport Auto and 66k on the clock... $12k 2009 Sport Auto and 38k on the clock... $18k 2008 Sport Manual and 32k on the clock... $18k 2011 Sport Auto with Navigation and 6 miles on the clock... $20k Or you can goto Honda's website, build a 2012 Base for 15k and a Sport for 17k. I don't loving get it. Ironically enough, cheese responded to this post. 
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Jan 12, 2012 15:37
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Phone posted:Well, that's somewhat of a good point; however, a lot of the B-segment cars and whatnot are holding their value extremely well which means that a 2008 Honda Fit with 60k on the clock has an asking price of $2000 off of the MSRP of a 2012 Fit. The slightly used car market isn't that great right now, and diving off into the early 00's can get some real gems but also has the gamble of the PO's care of the car and financing if it's available. Looking at my local craigslist i can find a 2008 honda fit sport with 71k miles for $11,500. MSRP on a new honda fit sport is $17k. Thats over $5000 less. There is one with 91k miles for under $10k.
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Jan 12, 2012 15:39
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Don Lapre posted:Looking at my local craigslist i can find a 2008 honda fit sport with 71k miles for $11,500. MSRP on a new honda fit sport is $17k. Thats over $5000 less. 71k and 4 years is fairly significant, I'd pay to avoid that. In the low end of the market right now I think it makes sense to buy new, the more expensive the car gets the less true that becomes. (CPO European cars for example) sanchez fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Jan 12, 2012 |
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Jan 12, 2012 15:42
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If you're set on getting a Fit, maybe new is the best way. Personally, I'm willing to own a car that's more than 5 years old, case in point my 1999 Camry is now at 185k miles and still going strong.
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Jan 12, 2012 15:49
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I definitely understand where you're coming from. If I was looking at BMWs or Mercedes, it'd definitely be different. I just wanted to make sure that I'm not barking up the wrong tree when it comes to looking at financing and dealing with the dealer. I have the math and a scientific calculator, so I can probably beat their finance guy to the punch when they have to run numbers.
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Jan 12, 2012 16:02
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Phone posted:I definitely understand where you're coming from. If I was looking at BMWs or Mercedes, it'd definitely be different. I'm looking for a "new" car because mine just died and is not worth it to repair. I'm running into the same thing. Up until now I always bought a 2-3 year old car with between 20 and 40K in miles. The volskwagon I bought in 2003 was a 2001 with 35K miles and I got it for $10K (or > 50% discount from new). It lasted 190K miles before it gave up the ghost. I would never have considered buying a new car, but I'm looking at the prices and people are either insane or know something I don't. I have a spreadsheet and have been looking like crazy every night for the last week and people are selling cars like 10 - 20% under new car prices, if that. At that discount I may as well just buy new and get the warranty.
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Jan 12, 2012 16:10
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Phone posted:I definitely understand where you're coming from. If I was looking at BMWs or Mercedes, it'd definitely be different. If you're getting a loan from your CU, it's really easy. Go to TrueCar, get a price guarantee, and then if you really want, see if you can negotiate lower on your own. Let the dealer see if they can match/beat your interest rate if you want, but if you're not trading something in and you have a price set, there's really not a lot else to gently caress with.
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Jan 12, 2012 18:28
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Bear in mind in all this that dealer-advertised prices for used cars are hilarious markups for schmucks, not "what you actually pay". Unless you're gullible. Often also true for private-party. And, when you buy a new car, depending on your local/state laws you may pay more in taxes than for a used car, so include that in the pricing. Also check insurance - it's often more expensive for a brand new car. My own experience: last year, 2003 Mazda Protege3, dealer list price ~10k, I paid $8300.
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Jan 12, 2012 22:36
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Used car prices are definitely a little out of whack, normally value hunters can count on a nice allotment of 29 to 39 month old cars coming back off their original lease, but 2008-2009 was rough on auto manufacturers and they didn't manufacture as many cars as they normally do. I know the mid and full sized SUV used market is insane right now. Local Chevy dealers are doing 8K off sticker on new Tahoe's but a 2008 CPO is going for the same drat price. Now obviously those are asking prices without negotiations, but it's still a little insane. Especially when you're average 3 year lease accounts for 40 to 50% depreciation of the vehicle. I've been looking at 2011 Ford Explorers lately, thinking I could pick up a CPO model that was a former rental car for a significant discount. Boy was I wrong. Original MSRP on one 2011 Explorer I looked at was 34,495. Dealer is asking 32,988 with 22K miles on it. I'm thinking I should try to grab it for mid blue book trade in at 27.5K which would be a reasonable price to me. Especially when this dealer is a high volume Ford dealer and would sell the 34.5K car at invoice of 32Kish anyway.
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Jan 12, 2012 23:15
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Leperflesh posted:Bear in mind in all this that dealer-advertised prices for used cars are hilarious markups for schmucks, not "what you actually pay". Unless you're gullible. Often also true for private-party. Taxes in NC seem to be 3% across the board for new or used. If a title is changing hands, you pay 3%. Protege5.  That isn't a terrible price, but definitely on the higher end of things of what I've seen locally.
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Jan 13, 2012 00:07
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Uh, yeah, Protege5. Why did I type 3? On reflection, it was actually a year and a half ago - august 2010. Time flies! It was a little on the high end, but the car had full maintenance records, is in very good shape, and had really low mileage for its vintage. And I live in the SF bay area where prices are a little high in general. Good car though.  Oh yeah when I got it home, first thing I did of course was to open up the owner's manual and read it. Turns out the first owner had gone through and meticulously highlighted bits in yellow highlighter, in particular the correct column of the maintenance table, the instructions for changing fluids, and the safety info. I considered that a Very Good Sign.
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Jan 13, 2012 19:26
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So I want to get rid of my car, I moved to a place where I commute by subway and I don't use it enough to justify having something so nice, and my parents offered to sell me their old car for cheap so I figure this is the time to do it. What I have now is an '08 C-class worth about $23,000 private value according to KBB (so I figure $20k-22k real price). I still owe about $18k on it. How on earth do you sell a car with money still owed? My first thought would be to get some sort of personal loan to pay it off in full, get the title and then sell it but the internet says there are easier ways to do it, like taking someone's money then using it to pay off the car and then transferring the title, but that seems way too sketchy.
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Jan 19, 2012 18:45
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NOTinuyasha posted:How on earth do you sell a car with money still owed? My first thought would be to get some sort of personal loan to pay it off in full, get the title and then sell it but the internet says there are easier ways to do it, like taking someone's money then using it to pay off the car and then transferring the title, but that seems way too sketchy. You can meet the buyer at the bank and do all of that at once, if you like. That's what I did when I sold my Mini.
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Jan 19, 2012 19:19
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I might do that, but let's say I just paid it off and then put it up for sale. How on earth do I sell a car worth that much? Craigslist?
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Jan 19, 2012 19:49
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NOTinuyasha posted:I might do that, but let's say I just paid it off and then put it up for sale. How on earth do I sell a car worth that much? Craigslist? Craigslist, classified, forums, ebay. You sell it how you would sell anything.
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Jan 19, 2012 19:59
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Craigslist is usually for cheaper cars, but since it's free, why the hell not. Put it on Autotrader and cars.com and you should receive plenty of hits. Maybe the newspaper, too, but who reads the newspaper classifieds anymore?
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Jan 19, 2012 21:02
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Hell, comedy option try Carmax. Worst they can do is lowball you so hard you walk out laughing.
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Jan 19, 2012 21:55
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I'm currently dropping around $1200 a month into my Golf TDI to pay it off by the end of the year. I eventually want to upgrade to an S5 or something in the same approximate price point. Would it be best to finish paying off the TDI, buy the S5, then sell the TDI and put the money from it into the S5? The other option would be sell/trade the TDI now, but I imagine this is the worst of the two options.
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Jan 20, 2012 04:24
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Bovril Delight posted:I'm currently dropping around $1200 a month into my Golf TDI to pay it off by the end of the year. I eventually want to upgrade to an S5 or something in the same approximate price point. Would it be best to finish paying off the TDI, buy the S5, then sell the TDI and put the money from it into the S5? The other option would be sell/trade the TDI now, but I imagine this is the worst of the two options. Or there is the comedy option of "being happy that you are no longer servicing debt and sticking with the car you have".
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Jan 20, 2012 15:05
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Bought a new car even though it's not a financially smart thing to do. Gotta have that new car smell (and wheels that won't break down on me). The whole process was definitely a learning experience and I'm sure I pissed off more than a few people by asking questions about everything throughout the whole thing. However, the one real positive thing to come out of this and a piece of advice I can give: When you're fresh out of high school and have a job, get a low limit credit card. I've had the same $600 dollar credit card from Bank of America since 2007 and this year it paid off; my monthly balances average around $2-300 and I would pay it off in full. Outside of a $400 credit card that I never use, this was able to give me a FICO score of 756 and I was almost eligible for my CU's prime rate of 2.79%, I got 2.99%. Not bad for being 23 according to everybody that I talk to.
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Jan 22, 2012 00:01
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IOwnCalculus posted:Hell, comedy option try Carmax. Worst they can do is lowball you so hard you walk out laughing. I did, and they actually didn't lowball me as bad as I thought, but Craigslist is still better. Best case I'd be burning $8000 straight up because of the loss between CPO and private party value, plus the tax I paid, and that's a bit too much to swallow. I was looking for extra money to finish my bachelors, but at that point I'd rather just go into debt and keep my fancy car.
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Jan 22, 2012 04:14
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Bovril Delight posted:I'm currently dropping around $1200 a month into my Golf TDI to pay it off by the end of the year. I eventually want to upgrade to an S5 or something in the same approximate price point. Would it be best to finish paying off the TDI, buy the S5, then sell the TDI and put the money from it into the S5? The other option would be sell/trade the TDI now, but I imagine this is the worst of the two options. Won't the TDI depreciate over the course of the year? If you're planning on selling anyway, why dump money into a depreciating asset?
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Jan 25, 2012 20:20
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The TDI will depreciate significantly less (or even none, depending on who ends up buying it) compared to the depreciation hit he'll take immediately by buying an S5.
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Jan 25, 2012 21:00
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I am currently considering leasing a car. I was read most of the thread already and saw the leasing arguments a couple dozen pages back. One thing that was not clear to me though is negotiating the buyback price. For a car I was considering a Hyundai Accent or a Toyota Corolla preferably. Looking at edmunds both manufacturers have a special lease offering. Accent '12: 1500 down - 169/mo Corolla '11: 2500 down - 159/mo Both are for 36 months. The buyback price on the Corolla is slightly less than 10k. Since its a manufacturer deal is that still negotiable? Yes of course buying used is better.
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Jan 26, 2012 06:25
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Theler posted:Looking at edmunds both manufacturers have a special lease offering. Downpayment + payments for the Corolla = $8224. Plus the buyback = $18,224. That's a new car price for a used car.
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Jan 26, 2012 15:59
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MrKatharsis posted:Downpayment + payments for the Corolla = $8224. Plus the buyback = $18,224. That's a new car price for a used car. Technically it's only used in the sense that they'd be sort of buying the car from themselves, though. When they initially take on the lease the car is brand-new. So assuming they go that route they're buying a brand-new car for brand-new money, roughly. Only with the option of after three years getting rid of it at half the cost (roughly).
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Jan 26, 2012 16:13
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MrKatharsis posted:Downpayment + payments for the Corolla = $8224. Plus the buyback = $18,224. That's a new car price for a used car. It is a new car price, but it is also a new car? If you mean just because it is last years model I don't really see why that would be an issue. It seems that leasing is slightly worse than buying the car new (assuming no loan just paying with cash), but the cost is also spread over 3 years.
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Jan 26, 2012 18:14
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Leasing seems to work exactly like a balloon loan.
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Jan 26, 2012 18:17
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I'm in a situation where I am not 100% sure what to do. I have a growing family, 2 kids and a wife, and need to upgrade to a vehicle with more space, maybe a mid size SUV, probably used. What I currently own: 2005 Ford Mustang, V6, 33k miles, good condition inside and out. Still owe 5k on it. My financial situation: I only have the car payment on the mustang and 1 credit card. My credit score isn't super, it's at 630 right now but my debt to wealth ratio is pretty good. My real dilemma here is that I have the money to pay the mustang off right now, would it be better to pay it off and turn around right away and use it as a trade in, or should I just go trade it in without paying it off? Would paying off the Mustang first be better for my credit?
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Jan 27, 2012 03:05
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