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Midorka posted:In my homebrew group we're doing a cereal competition with random teams. The goal is to make a beer using a cereal in the mash. Does anyone have any good recipes for ones with Fruit Loops by chance? Yeah, if the competition is to make a beer with a good flavor derived or that reminds you of cereal X, then it'd be sort of tough. If the goal is just to make a beer that happens to have cereal in it, make pretty much anything and 8oz of Fruit Loops would pretty much make zero difference in flavor. Actually, if it's the former, then a clone of Leinenkugel's Sunset Wheat would be more than likely a pretty drat good bet. A pretty good majority of the reviews for that beer mention that it pretty much tastes like Fruit Loops or Fruity Pebbles.
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Feb 9, 2012 04:39
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You have to use it in mash? I guess I don't see the point? Mix with a lot of rice hulls and call it a day? It'll just add some gravity.
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Feb 9, 2012 04:50
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Yeah, in the mash kind of blows out my secondary ferment idea. I guess you could do both. With a pound of cereal, I don't even see the need for rice hulls. Maybe you can get them to alter the rule to "minimum one pound in the recipe" since they say the rules are changeable. I'd still be interested to see what happens if you sort the Loops for color. Not enough to try it myself, but enough to read about it on the Internet. Jo3sh fucked around with this message at 04:56 on Feb 9, 2012 |
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Feb 9, 2012 04:54
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I finally went to a home brew club and against all odds it was a bunch of well adjusted adults and not at all like a meeting of Home Brew Talk forum goers in real life. Who would have thought.
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Feb 9, 2012 05:18
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Bad Munki posted:On a side note, yours is about $40 for 25' of 3/8" copper pipe. For $14, you can get 20' of the same from home depot. For $43, you can get 50' of the stuff. But let's just go with the 20', so that's a $14 baseline. Add in the cost of a torch (comes with a tank) for another $13 and we're up to $27, throw in a little spool of solder and some flux ($3.50 + $2) and you're looking at $32.50. That leaves you $6 for the two fittings you'll need, AND you get a soldered chiller, AND you now have a torch and soldering supplies, AND you learned to solder. Don't think I didn't start out down this path, usually I have the DIY or die approach, which sometimes saves money and sometimes costs money (and time). But I went to Osh Hardware (a local hardware store in CA, not sure how far across the US it goes), and getting just 25' of 3/8 copper tubing was going to be more than ordering the chiller online. Even when I check home depot's website, 20' of 3/8 tubing is $37: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100348356/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=copper%20tubing&storeId=10051 I also paid for $30 of the chiller with an amazon gift card, so I really paid $20 for a lovely, non-working chiller. But imagine if I bought the right one in the first place, it'd be hard to beat that price. Copper seems to be really expensive in LA, but then again I'd imagine we have a lot of meth heads stealing it.
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Feb 9, 2012 06:57
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If you're going to bail on that company and just try for a return and not a replacement, these guys make badass chillers. http://www.nybrewsupply.com/wort-chillers.html The 50' stainless chiller is absolutely awesome.
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Feb 9, 2012 07:14
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Hypnolobster posted:If you're going to bail on that company and just try for a return and not a replacement, these guys make badass chillers. I have the 25' stainless and it is indeed very nice.
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Feb 9, 2012 07:19
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Hello goons, I'm glad I found this thread- started homebrewing in August of this past year, and have since been having a great time with the hobby. Finally something that combines my love of food science, chemistry, biology, and alcoholism into one cohesive sport. Anyway, I'm wondering if people are noticing Citra shortages? Northern brewer is plum out, and they don't expect to receive any soon. With that in mind, I'm interested in a recommended substitute. Perhaps the best beer I've brewed to date has been an American IPA with Summit to bitter and a combination of Sorachi Ace and Citra to late-addition. I hate to think it'll be a while before I can cook that again. I haven't read the entirety of this 60 page thread yet, but for what it's worth, I've noticed great personal success with the following, and I'm looking for some confirmation or additional tips: Using a 20qt pot, I partial mash 6 to 6.5 lbs of base and specialty grain, at a 1.25 liter to pound mash and sparge ratio. I try and hit 153 as my mash temperature and do a single batch sparge with 165 degree water. I've stopped using LME and only exclusively use the lightest DME I can find, now, which is a Breiss Pilsen DME, typically a 3 lb late addition at 15 min. I usually get a 1:2 extract to grain ratio, which has been working well to mask the extract off-flavors. I've also started using Wyeast liquid yeasts exclusively as of six batches ago, and have been much happier with the results. When the temperature in my basement got below 58, I contacted Wyeast for some advice, and they advised pitching 2x packs to counteract the temperature, which has also been working very well. Outside of improved cooling, I'm wondering what people might recommend for improving my results. I brew in a tiny 700 square foot condo, so while I've been fortunate to be able to produce 15 gallons a month, I don't have enough room to go all grain or keg, or any of that other fancy stuff. Yay homebrewing!
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Feb 9, 2012 07:35
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Midorka posted:Great idea Jo3sh, I'm going to look into that! If you only use Fruit Loops in the mash I really don't know how they can expect you to make a Fruit Loop tasting beer, and that's obviously what the judges will be looking for (and will be most likely to impress), so I think you should come at it from another angle. Pick a beer that's supposed to have a nice creamy mouthfeel like a wit, Irish red, old ale, and come up with a version that you'll back-sweeten with 1/3-2/3lbs of lactose and possibly add a bit of fruit extract to emulate the sugary sweetness/milkiness as well as the fake-as-gently caress fruit flavoring of the cereal. This way you can toss the pound of cereal into the mash and not even worry what it'll add. I think using real fruit or puree would add too much acidity that you really don't get from a bowl of Froot Loops. Thinking of it, a wit would be perfect for this since the starch/preservatives might cloud your bad boy up. I'd probably cut out the oats and keep the fruit flavoring to a minimum. Maybe a mix of apple and cherry. If you want to get real experimental, get a bunch of the cereal and experiment with making liquers with it and vodka. You might not need fruit flavoring this way, and it'd give a more authentically Loopy flavor.
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Feb 9, 2012 08:35
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TenjouUtena posted:You have to use it in mash? I guess I don't see the point? Like many terrible things in the homebrew community this is pun based. There's a mashing technique referred to as a cereal mash so isn't it hilarious to do a normal mash with actual breakfast cereal?  See also: altering a beer so you can use a dumbass name. "It's a brown California common with a little bit of corn in it. I call it the Cleveland steam beer."
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Feb 9, 2012 13:42
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TenjouUtena posted:You have to use it in mash? I guess I don't see the point? Well, it says there must be Froot Loops in the mash - doesn't say you can ONLY use them in the mash.
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Feb 9, 2012 14:30
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Daedalus Esquire posted:I don't know that it will get less tart over time...that seems like a sugar content issue. I also have a dry cider which is about 2 months in the fermenter which tastes like a tart apple champagne. Its my intention to add Campden and potassium sorbate when the flavor gets clean enough so I can back sweeten without the sugar or honey or whatever I choose fermenting out. Sorry, I just saw this post last night. At the recommendation of a friend we added 1 cup of sugar a couple days ago. He said ½ to 1 cup and we decided to go big. As of last night it still hadn’t started back up, so I guess we have to repitch – something I was hoping to avoid. I don’t think I’ll be able to get to the hbs until Saturday.
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Feb 9, 2012 14:41
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jwh posted:Outside of improved cooling, I'm wondering what people might recommend for improving my results. Instead of double pitching yeast, you should make yeast starters instead. They're much cheaper and easy to do.
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Feb 9, 2012 15:31
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jwh posted:Anyway, I'm wondering if people are noticing Citra shortages? Someone correct me if this isn't the case, but I believe some hops are proprietary to the farm that developed them, sort of like how pharmaceutical companies get the exclusive right to sell a drug. Many of the signature American hops right now, like Citra, Simcoe and Amarillo fall into this bucket. With every freaking brewer in the US clamoring for huge amounts of these hops to make their Double Imperial IPAs, demand greatly exceeds supply and everyone sells out the second the harvest hits the market.
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Feb 9, 2012 16:00
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jwh posted:I brew in a tiny 700 square foot condo, so while I've been fortunate to be able to produce 15 gallons a month, I don't have enough room to...keg, or any of that other fancy stuff. You'd think this, but with a two keg setup, about 2.5x2.5 ft. floor space is being taken up in my garage as opposed to a 3x4 ft area in my basement of cases of bottles. A 3x4 area that is constantly growing as more empties stack up for future batches. Granted, it's winter here so I haven't worried about the whole refrigeration issue that will crop up in warm weather.
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Feb 9, 2012 16:09
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beetlo posted:I have the 25' stainless and it is indeed very nice. Thanks, I think I'm picking one of these up right now.
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Feb 9, 2012 16:28
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jwh posted:I'm wondering if people are noticing Citra shortages? Oh yes. When Hopsdirect made Citra available in October, it was one pound per customer and they sold out in hours. As Docjowles points out, Citra is a variety (like Amarillo and Simcoe) that is controlled by the owner of the patent. It's also very popular and still not planted in large acreage yet, so supply is very restricted. It doesn't help any that a couple of big breweries have standing orders for the bulk of the crop. What we homebrewers get is the leftovers. There won't be any more available until the hop harvests are in for the year. I did manage to snag a pound each of Citra and Amarillo for myself, but I have not decided what to do with them yet.
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Feb 9, 2012 16:29
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Docjowles posted:Someone correct me if this isn't the case, but I believe some hops are proprietary to the farm that developed them, sort of like how pharmaceutical companies get the exclusive right to sell a drug. Many of the signature American hops right now, like Citra, Simcoe and Amarillo fall into this bucket. With every freaking brewer in the US clamoring for huge amounts of these hops to make their Double Imperial IPAs, demand greatly exceeds supply and everyone sells out the second the harvest hits the market. Yea, they are proprietary to the inventor of the variety, whether farm, seed company or whomever. Also these three are used in a lot of popular craft IPAs (Dogfish head 60+90 minute (Simcoe+Amarillo), 3 Floyd's Zombie Dust (Citra) to name a few). So the breweries know how much of each hop they will need a year or so out, and are allowed to pre-order those hops. So the farms have a large majority of these "rare" hops already sold before they even put them in the ground. The homebrewer's get mostly the extras that are left unsold after the pre-orders are filled. These varieties' seeds/rhizomes also cost more on account of being proprietary, so farmers are less prone to planting them without a pre-order. Also, https://www.freshops.com has Citra and Simcoe available as whole hops in increments up to 1-2 lbs. ^^efb
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Feb 9, 2012 16:39
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Midorka posted:Great idea Jo3sh, I'm going to look into that! poo poo, now you have to invent a time machine too?! The most hardcore of brewing competitions.
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Feb 9, 2012 16:51
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Jo3sh posted:I did manage to snag a pound each of Citra and Amarillo for myself, but I have not decided what to do with them yet. I've already burned through my Amarillo and have only 5oz of my Citra left. Oops.
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Feb 9, 2012 16:57
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DrBouvenstein posted:poo poo, now you have to invent a time machine too?! The most hardcore of brewing competitions. Holy poo poo, win! Good catch. Thanks a lot for the advice in here as well, I'm going to talk to my team about it.
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Feb 9, 2012 17:02
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I've had it with rolling pins and baking pans, spilled or uncracked grain. The beer store has said the grain mill they sell isn't worth the money they have to ask for it. What do people here use for their grain crackins? It seems like a really fine line to walk between breaking the husks and turning them into powder...
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Feb 9, 2012 17:14
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Hypnolobster posted:If you're going to bail on that company and just try for a return and not a replacement, these guys make badass chillers. Oh wow, I'm loving their counterflow chiller. I might be picking that up soon.
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Feb 9, 2012 17:15
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Hypnolobster posted:If you're going to bail on that company and just try for a return and not a replacement, these guys make badass chillers. That's who I got it from! Off of amazon, but fulfilled by ny brew supply. For everyone else who ordered one, make sure to test it out right away.
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Feb 9, 2012 17:18
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j3rkstore posted:Oh wow, I'm loving their counterflow chiller. I might be picking that up soon. Are counterflow chillers a lot more effective? Do you have to recirculate back into your kettle, or how does that work exactly? Can they only work with pumps?
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Feb 9, 2012 17:21
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MomJeans420 posted:That's who I got it from! Off of amazon, but fulfilled by ny brew supply. For everyone else who ordered one, make sure to test it out right away. Wow, that's pretty sad I bought the standard one with just hose clamps and tubing shoved on, and I put my own compression fittings on.
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Feb 9, 2012 17:33
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Wish I would have known about those links before I went out last night and made my own. Oh well. Make your own beer, make your own equipment.
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Feb 9, 2012 17:33
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LeeMajors posted:Are counterflow chillers a lot more effective? Do you have to recirculate back into your kettle, or how does that work exactly? Can they only work with pumps? You can use a counterflow chiller (or plate chiller, which is basically the same thing built differently) by gravity and without recirc - I have seen it done. Basically, if the wort is still too hot coming out the other end, slow down the outflow or increase the flow of cooling water, or both.
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Feb 9, 2012 17:41
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jwh posted:Hello goons, Docjowles posted:Someone correct me if this isn't the case, but I believe some hops are proprietary to the farm that developed them, sort of like how pharmaceutical companies get the exclusive right to sell a drug. Many of the signature American hops right now, like Citra, Simcoe and Amarillo fall into this bucket. With every freaking brewer in the US clamoring for huge amounts of these hops to make their Double Imperial IPAs, demand greatly exceeds supply and everyone sells out the second the harvest hits the market. Citra is a proprietary hop varietal that only a few farms have license to produce. It also has the distinction of probably being the "hottest" hop right now. Everyone wants it, and supply is extremely limited. SN Torpedo and 3Floyds Zombie Dust are two popular beers that use Citra. I bought 3 pounds each of Citra, Amarillo, Cascade, and Simcoe at the hop harvest this year because those are the "sexy" hop varieties that make up many IPA/DIPAs. Many of these hop varieties run out from homebrew suppliers shortly after harvest time because they are so highly sought after. I made that mistake my first year homebrewing, now I buy in bulk and vaccuum seal and deep freeze hops for storage.
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Feb 9, 2012 17:44
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MomJeans420 posted:That's who I got it from! Off of amazon, but fulfilled by ny brew supply. For everyone else who ordered one, make sure to test it out right away. Well gently caress! I hope mine is awesome like the other posters' and not poo poo like yours. 
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Feb 9, 2012 17:48
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LeeMajors posted:Are counterflow chillers a lot more effective? Do you have to recirculate back into your kettle, or how does that work exactly? Can they only work with pumps? Like Jo3sh said, you can indeed let gravity do all the work if you limit the flow out of the kettle by a certain amount, and have sufficiently cold water flowing through the outside of the chiller. The only problem is that unlike recirculation, you only get one shot at hitting your target temps and most likely you'll end up at the very least a couple degrees too high or low based on variables out of your control (i.e. the exact temp coming from your garden tap, exact flow rates used, etc). Just like getting a good handle on what your average mash efficiency is, it seems like it takes a few brew days to get everything dialed in to chill your wort without recirculation.
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Feb 9, 2012 17:55
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I'm trying to do another batch after a bit of a hiatus. I'm looking to regulate my fermentation temps better. I'm thinking about getting a big rubbermaid container and filling it was 60 degree water and letting the bucket sit in that. I was also reading up on some all grain BIAB 3 gallon batches. Should I stick to exact brewing to see if the container cooler helps improve the quality of the beer or should I go for broke and try my hand at small scale all grain brewing. Edit: It turns out I have no garden hose hookup or any faucet hookup that can fit a wort chiller. I'm sick of waiting for a crappy icebath to cool my wort down. Is there any other solution to cool it down quicker than ice bath or do I just have to suck it up and prepare more ice lazerwolf fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Feb 9, 2012 |
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Feb 9, 2012 18:08
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lazerwolf posted:I'm trying to do another batch after a bit of a hiatus. I'm looking to regulate my fermentation temps better. I'm thinking about getting a big rubbermaid container and filling it was 60 degree water and letting the bucket sit in that. I was also reading up on some all grain BIAB 3 gallon batches. Should I stick to exact brewing to see if the container cooler helps improve the quality of the beer or should I go for broke and try my hand at small scale all grain brewing. Where do you brew? is it near enough to the kitchen that you can use a garden hose adapter to replace your sink aerator for the brew day? One of those plus the shortest length of cheap garden hose that reaches your kettle should be all you need to add to an immersion chiller. Just wear a glove if you hand tighten it, because the threads can be sharp enough to cut if you have to apply a bit of torque.
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Feb 9, 2012 18:29
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Garanimals4Seniors posted:Where do you brew? is it near enough to the kitchen that you can use a garden hose adapter to replace your sink aerator for the brew day? One of those plus the shortest length of cheap garden hose that reaches your kettle should be all you need to add to an immersion chiller. Just wear a glove if you hand tighten it, because the threads can be sharp enough to cut if you have to apply a bit of torque. I do brew in the kitchen but unfortunately my kitchen sink faucet is weird and doesn't have the usual screw on aerator. So unless I brew at a friend's house and transport the bucket back to my place, it looks like I'm SOL on the immersion chiller at the moment lazerwolf fucked around with this message at 18:50 on Feb 9, 2012 |
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Feb 9, 2012 18:45
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lazerwolf posted:I do brew in the kitchen but unfortunately my kitchen sink faucet is weird and doesn't have the usual screw on aerator. So unless I brew at a friend's house and transport the bucket back to my place I'm SOL on the immersion chiller at the moment Can you go to a hardware store and see if there are any adapters you can buy? What about some kind of flexible tubing that you can tie on with a compression clamp or something? I used a chiller on my first batch and had a similar issue* but just assumed I'd be able to do one of the two things above once I get my own in. I guess time will tell. *Ended up having to take it in the bathroom where it fit a bit better and hold my hand over the faucet+connector to keep it from spraying water everywhere.
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Feb 9, 2012 18:48
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lazerwolf posted:I do brew in the kitchen but unfortunately my kitchen sink faucet is weird and doesn't have the usual screw on aerator. So unless I brew at a friend's house and transport the bucket back to my place I'm SOL on the immersion chiller at the moment Buy a new faucet! That does suck, though. On the topic of chillers, which I'm sure I'll buy soon, is there any advantage to copper over stainless steel? I understand copper has better thermal conductivity, but does it really matter that much for just a few gallons of water? And it seems to me that SS is easier to keep clean...copper gets green, pits, etc... if you don't care for it well. SS, all you would have to do is hose off the wort and call it a day!
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Feb 9, 2012 18:50
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Sirotan posted:Can you go to a hardware store and see if there are any adapters you can buy? What about some kind of flexible tubing that you can tie on with a compression clamp or something? That's a good idea I never thought of. I'll have to take a picture of the faucet tonight to see if there's anything that can be done.
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Feb 9, 2012 18:59
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lazerwolf posted:That's a good idea I never thought of. I'll have to take a picture of the faucet tonight to see if there's anything that can be done. You should be able to unscrew the aerator on the end and take it to some store and see if it will fit in anything. The might be the easiest way to do it.
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Feb 9, 2012 19:04
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He might have something like these that don't have anything to unscrew since they generally have to be a regular faucet AND a sprayer nozzle.
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Feb 9, 2012 19:57
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Midorka posted:Great idea Jo3sh, I'm going to look into that! I made a Belgian Pale way back in 2004 using Fruity Pebbles(two boxes) when my club did the same thing. It didn't get any flavor or color from the cereal, but using a Belgian strain helped trick people into thinking it added some flavor. I think I came in either 2nd or 3rd.
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Feb 9, 2012 20:01
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