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I've been trying to work this out for a few days and I'm drawing blanks. I recently bought a Belkin Share n300 wireless router and almost immediately flashed it with dd-wrt (using the recommended firmware version DD-WRT v24-sp2 (10/02/10) mega - build 15337M NEWD-2 K2.6 Eko). The stock firmware was giving me an unstable connection on the Xbox, and my laptop/phone were unable to connect to it. After flashing it I could get a stable connection on the Xbox and my phone as long as it's not too close. Any devices within about 3m and clear LOS to the router cannot connect to it. I have this router set up in my study, sitting on top of a wooden desk with a metal frame, within about a metre of my printer, modem/router, switch, and two metres away from my desktop. I've got 4 wireless devices in the house, an Xbox 360 in the lounge (~2m away at a 45 degree angle through a single wall, wooden frame with unshielded insulation best I can tell), an iPhone v4 belonging to my girlfriend that moves around the house, an n900 belonging to myself that usually sits on my desk (within 2m of the router with clear LOS), and my laptop (Asus m51v) which usually sits right next to the router on my desk. The Xbox and iPhone can pick up the network absolutely fine and happily connect/stream data from the wired network/internet. None of my devices can so much as see this network, unless I'm outside the study. Running inSSIDer on my laptop while it's sitting on the desk shows that the wireless network gets picked up occasionally (for about 20 seconds every 5 minutes) with RSSI of -11dBM. If I move out to the lounge the signal drops to about -18dBm but it still doesn't give me a stable connection on the laptop. My n900 connects at this point. I noticed dd-wrt set the transmit strength to 71mW, which seemed excessive. I dropped it to 28mW and noticed no change for my devices in the study (inSSIDer showed the signal strength dropped to -13dBm). There's poo poo all interference from other networks. I can see two other 802.11g networks on channel 1 and 11, so I've set up on channel 6. The other two networks are received at -80dBm. I've got the router in AP mode, N only, SSID broadcast off, using WPA2-PSK w/ AES, authentication type set to "Shared Key", frame burst disabled, tx power set to 28, and the rest of the dd-wrt settings are left at the defaults. Why am I not able to connect to this AP from close range?
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Feb 25, 2012 13:59
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I skimmed the thread then gave up, so sorry if this has been covered a page ago. I have a Linksys E4200 router and I need Internet broadcast into a steel building behind the house. For a while I was running a buried ethernet cable in PVC pipe but I kept having problems with the cable going bad for whatever reason. (Oddly enough the best solution was just to run the cable across the lawn and pick it up when it was time to mow.) Anyway, long story short I need a wireless bridge or switch in the detached building. Any suggestions? I don't have a budget so much as I want the fastest possible speeds for INTERNET GAMING and/or Netflix. I am currently using an old Dell laptop as my stop-gap solution and it stinks.
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Feb 25, 2012 15:55
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ultimateforce posted:I skimmed the thread then gave up, so sorry if this has been covered a page ago. A fine, upstanding man like yourself should make a cantenna! http://www.turnpoint.net/wireless/cantennahowto.html
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Feb 25, 2012 17:20
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chizad posted:Based on the OP and skimming through the thread, it looks like the Linksys E3000 and the Netgear WNDR3700 would both fit my needs. Is there another option I've overlooked? If not, since the E3000 seems to have some possible overheating issues, I'm assuming the Netgear would be the better choice of the two? I have similar requirements to you - primarily support for both 2.4GHz and 5GHz at the same time (iPhone  ), and the ability to load custom firmware. After reading through various threads on the DD-WRT forums last night, I ordered the Linksys E3000. I didn't look at the Netgear in too much detail, but from what I could tell the latest hardware revision of the WNDR3700 (v3) isn't supported by DD-WRT yet, so if you wanted to run that you'd need to get your hands on a v2. YMMV with Tomato or OpenWRT but I've not looked at those.
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Feb 25, 2012 17:32
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I have a TPLink TL-WR542G. Simply, what I want to do is bind certain devices to certain IPs. I have a public range of IPs from 100 - 199. I want to bind my XBox to say 90 so I can DMZ it or forward or whatever with it. When I go in and set the binding, I release/renew and it still puts my PC on the first public IP (100). Am I doing something wrong or am I missing something?
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Feb 25, 2012 17:50
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meatpimp posted:A fine, upstanding man like yourself should make a cantenna! I would still need to buy the switch you bumbler.
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Feb 25, 2012 17:54
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ultimateforce posted:For a while I was running a buried ethernet cable in PVC pipe but I kept having problems with the cable going bad for whatever reason. (Oddly enough the best solution was just to run the cable across the lawn and pick it up when it was time to mow.) Anyway, long story short I need a wireless bridge or switch in the detached building. Any suggestions? I don't have a budget so much as I want the fastest possible speeds for INTERNET GAMING and/or Netflix. To be honest the easiest way to get reliable fast speeds would be to re-run that cable again but doing it properly to avoid whatever is happening to it that causes it to go bad. (Use thicker shielded cable, block the ends to the PVC piping, terminate both ends to a socket on the wall so the cable can't be pulled or moved, etc)
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Feb 26, 2012 02:15
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That's what I was hoping against, drat!
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Feb 26, 2012 03:02
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Right now I'm debating running down this weird connectivity issue I've been having, or just sucking up and dropping the cash on an Airport Extreme for the house. I've got a Buffalo WZR-HP-G300NH that's been rock-solid for a year or so now, with three laptops running off the wireless and two desktops over Cat6. The connection on all the wireless clients have been dropping at random for about a week now, and I can't figure out why. They all drop at once, yet the router claims that all are still connected and sending/receiving packets. Flashing to DD-WRT didn't help at all, unfortunately, but did let me see that the router thinks the laptops are still connected. The wired connections do NOT drop, which makes me think that the wireless access point part of the router is on the way out. Did I miss anything that may prevent me from dropping 180 on a new router?
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Feb 26, 2012 04:01
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Ephphatha posted:I've been trying to work this out for a few days and I'm drawing blanks. Turns out there was some problem with the 15337 build. Upgraded to 16578 and it's all good.
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Feb 26, 2012 04:52
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Can I just run this as a bridge and be done? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833124388
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Feb 26, 2012 05:01
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General Hawk posted:Right now I'm debating running down this weird connectivity issue I've been having, or just sucking up and dropping the cash on an Airport Extreme for the house. I've got a Buffalo WZR-HP-G300NH that's been rock-solid for a year or so now, with three laptops running off the wireless and two desktops over Cat6. hey, buddy. This problem has been haunting me for ages. I just ran a network cable across the house in desperation. I also tried hanging another wireless router off the bipac to see if it was the bipac wi-fi going wonky. Nope. The DIR-300 does it too. Wired is fine running through the bipac and through the DIR-300 with and without NAT. I just... don't know. Ghosts or something. So, now I have this cable running into the loungeroom from the bipac, I figure I'll plug either the DIR-300 or the SMC Barricade turbo in to it (Don't know if the latter will be happy with that though) and dodging what could be a possible wi-fi echo problem through two double brick walls. Signal strength is still great, but something is screwing with things. On that subject, and why I came here I need to ask a question. As stated teh DIR-300 will be in the loungeroom providing both wireless and wi-fi in that part of the house. Should I turn on NAT which turns it into an access point, or leave it off? I know it works both ways but honestly don't know which I should choose.
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Feb 26, 2012 06:14
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I have two questions... the first is in regards to my ISP. I have had comcast (xfinity) internet for a good long while now mostly because it's the only viable high-speed in the city I'm in (Portland,OR) What I didn't realize when I upgraded to their Blast! package who knows how long ago ($10/month additional charge) is that to fully take advantage of the Blast speeds I should be on a DOCSIS 3.0 modem and this whole time they've been renting me an SB5101 DOCSIS 2.0 I didn't really know anything about DOCSIS until I started researching cable modems so I could buy my own now that I'm moving and I realized Comcast upped the rental fee on their modems to $7/month a bit ago. I know I'm an idiot for renting a modem for this long but I honestly had no idea that the modem could be the bottleneck causing the slow-ish speeds I've been seeing pretty much the entire time I've been in this house. I don't think I've ever seen over 15Mbps and often-times when I visit speedtest.net I find I'm under 10Mbps. This is on my desktop which is connected via Wireless-N but I've confirmed that it's equally slow over a wired connection plugging my laptop into my router. My question is this... should I be calling Comcast and asking for a refund for the amount I've been paying for their Blast! package this whole time? is there a reasonable argument to be made for the DOCSIS 2.0 modem being the reason I'm not seeing higher speeds? The Blast! package advertises 20-25Mbps boosts so I'm kind of pissed if I have been missing out on the additional speed this whole time. edit: I may be a horrible liar, I just plugged my laptop into my router to double-check the speeds and I was able to get 30Mbps wired. so maybe I've been gimping myself this whole time by having my PC on a wireless connection. MMD3 fucked around with this message at 07:11 on Feb 26, 2012 |
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Feb 26, 2012 06:28
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My second question is related to the best way to go about networking the house I'm moving into next week. I've got a Boxee Box (HTPC) which has been having some problems buffering local HD content. This wouldn't have anything to do with my comcast speeds since it's local content but this is how I currently have my network setup. Cable Modem -> TP Link 802.11N router -> Boxee Box (wired) (living room downstairs) Cable Modem -> TP Link 802.11N router -> PC (wireless) -> Drobo (eSATA) (upstairs office) so all of my media, movies and music have to be pulled off the Drobo and then passed to the boxee box wirelessly, whether or not the buffering issues I'm encountering are due to the boxee box just sucking or some issue with getting the content off the drobo and passed through Wireless-N I dunno, would love to know if there's a way to troubleshoot this better. In the new house I'll have a similar arrangement it seems, the Cable Modem and a wired router will be in the basement though with Cat-5 running to the living room on the first floor (where my TV and Boxee Box will be) and Cat-5 running to the upstairs hallway outside of my office. The homeowner did a nice job of running the wiring and installing wall-plates. I'd love to figure out a way to hardwire my PC this time without having to run a network cable across the hall and under the door jam into my office. I can map this out if it's too confusing. I'm thinking I may have to go wireless again but have the wireless router in the hall upstairs alternatively I have been looking into trying a Powerline adapter. So my question here is. Should I go for the Powerline adapter, put my wireless router next to the tv and boxee box downstairs and hope that I can get decent speeds from the computer over Powerline, or should I just go for Wireless again, put my wireless router in the hall outside of the office and hope I don't encounter the same buffering issues I am encountering in my current house? Would really love any advice you may have, thanks!
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Feb 26, 2012 06:59
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ultimateforce posted:For a while I was running a buried ethernet cable in PVC pipe but I kept having problems with the cable going bad for whatever reason. 1. Make sure the cable run is shorter than 328' from the router in the house to the termination in the other building. 2. Buy direct-burial shielded CAT5 for the job. 3. Run a stringer line along with the cable through the PVC. In case you have to re-run the cable, having a stringer in there makes pulling new cable a cinch. 4. Ground the ends of the cable properly so that they aren't creating a nasty electrical potential on the wire. If this cable shocks the poo poo out of you when it rains, you'll know you didn't ground things properly.  A proper ethernet run is going to rule the roost. Shooting wireless into a metal building is bullshit and since you mentioned having no budget, you can't afford the gear to make it work well.
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Feb 26, 2012 08:24
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I'm pretty sure ethernet is optoisolated and you should not ground either end. If you're using shielded cable, yes, the shield should be grounded at exactly one end. That being said, commodity electronics manufacturers are notorious for ignoring specs, so if it were me I would absolutely put a $10 dumb switch on either end of that outside run as sacrifical devices, just in case you get some stupid poo poo going on.
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Feb 26, 2012 09:22
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You could use UTP<->Fiber ethernet converters to get around electrical and distance concerns, but they'll run $100+ each.
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Feb 26, 2012 10:16
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MMD3 posted:edit: I may be a horrible liar, I just plugged my laptop into my router to double-check the speeds and I was able to get 30Mbps wired. so maybe I've been gimping myself this whole time by having my PC on a wireless connection. Yeah, I have a similar setting. My ISP supports docsis 3. I have a Docsis 2 modem and constantly pull 30-35 mbps. As for my own setup, I called my friend and neighbor yesterday. I sounded a bit like an idiot, but as he is an avid hunter I asked him if he had a set of binoculars that would be able to see 4+ miles. He sounded confused and finally informed me that he did. I'm out of town, for now, but when I get back home I'm going to get up on my roof and [see] if I can't pull this 3.2 mile connection. I'm excited to tinker with it. I've ran over the Google earth maps a hundred times, searching with a fine toothed comb to find a reason as to why this won't work. We'll give it a shot! Edit: Couldn't Ultimateforce overcome the 328 feet (100 meter) restriction by using Power Over Ethernet adapters? Edit2: And that'd take care of grounding as well, wouldn't it? Ration fucked around with this message at 10:25 on Feb 26, 2012 |
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Feb 26, 2012 10:20
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Ninja Rope posted:You could use UTP<->Fiber ethernet converters to get around electrical and distance concerns, but they'll run $100+ each. Yeah, that's an angle. Hell, if power's not a concern I bet for $50 you could find two Cisco 2900XLs with fiber modules still in them on eBay or something.
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Feb 26, 2012 10:21
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As long as we're asking comcast questions, can someone point me at a good modem? I'm sick of paying the rental fee! Also is there any reliability increase going from the modem I rent to one I'd own? Can you get a more reliable setup by buying?
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Feb 26, 2012 11:39
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CuddleChunks posted:A proper ethernet run is going to rule the roost. Shooting wireless into a metal building is bullshit and since you mentioned having no budget, you can't afford the gear to make it work well. Sorry to keep my question going in this thread but I have no budget because I don't care how much it costs I just want it to work correctly. I am about to just buy another E4200 and just run it in bridge mode inside the building and hope for maximum packet throwin' and catchin'. Edit: I should have said this earlier, the two buildings are only about 60 feet apart and my laptop gets 90% signal in here. I think I could get away with no stinky ground cables if I did it right. ultimateforce fucked around with this message at 13:48 on Feb 26, 2012 |
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Feb 26, 2012 13:44
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Smegmalicious posted:As long as we're asking comcast questions, can someone point me at a good modem? I'm sick of paying the rental fee! Also is there any reliability increase going from the modem I rent to one I'd own? Can you get a more reliable setup by buying? I go through at least a modem a year in Florida, they get zapped at my house all the time. Just a heads up. ultimateforce fucked around with this message at 13:48 on Feb 26, 2012 |
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Feb 26, 2012 13:45
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ultimateforce posted:Sorry to keep my question going in this thread but I have no budget because I don't care how much it costs I just want it to work correctly. I am about to just buy another E4200 and just run it in bridge mode inside the building and hope for maximum packet throwin' and catchin'. Instead of using a E4200 why not just get two ubiquiti bullets and aim them at each other?
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Feb 26, 2012 15:55
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Smegmalicious posted:I just replaced that exact setup with an Airport Extreme and I'm liking it a lot so far. I'll keep that in mind as a fallback option. Even though I don't need/use half the extra features they offer, the nerd in me likes having something to tinker with and all those extra options being available if I ever need them. kewld00d posted:I have similar requirements to you - primarily support for both 2.4GHz and 5GHz at the same time (iPhone Yeah, it seems like tracking down a WNDR3700v2 might be a bit tricky. I stopped by MicroCenter on my way home from work on Friday and every single WNDR3700 they had was v3 hardware. I see that the WNDR37AV is the same hardware as the WNDR3700 just in different packaging. Does it have the same hardware revision issue as the 3700, or is one of those guaranteed to be v2 hardware? And short of checking each box at local stores hoping I luck out, any suggestions on finding a WNDR3700v2? rookieone posted:I have an E3000 and I'm not too happy with it. Heat is definitely an issue as I've had to prop it up to assure decent airflow underneath the router but it still gets hot. I haven't noticed any lock-ups yet, but performance isn't the best to be honest and I can't imagine that all that heat is good for the equipment. Once I was in MicroCenter I decided I really wanted something to tinker with over the weekend, so I ended up getting a refurb E3000. I haven't really stressed it to see how warm it gets under heavy load, but even idling it's getting pretty warm on the bottom. Heat may not end up being an issue for me though. While I have a lot of devices on my network, for the most part it's just me using them and I typically only have one or two devices that are actively transferring any significant amount of data at any one time. I figure I'll give the E3000 a try for a few weeks and then decide before the return period is up if I want to keep it.
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Feb 26, 2012 17:32
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Hopefully a quick question - I have a computer running unbuntu in my garage on a separate internal subnet. I want to connect to windows shares on my office computer from this computer without exposing the office computer more than necessary. Right now the garage computer connects to the house using a flashed fonera in bridging mode. Any suggestions on the easiest way to do this bearing in mind that the garage is not especially physically secure?
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Feb 26, 2012 17:33
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Do you guys know anything about the EV200 v2 linksys router? Dude at futureshop recommended it because my house runs 2 PCs, 3 laptops, an xbox and a wireless blu-ray, and we have a WRT54-G right now.
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Feb 26, 2012 22:07
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I've got a problem that has cropped up every so often and is driving me nuts recently. I've got my desktop with a wired connection to my router, and every so often recently the internet connection goes to poo poo and everything will slow down, im will lose connection, web sites will load slowly or not at all, for no apparent reason. I'm not doing anything interesting on the connection at these times - no torrenting, no netflix, whatever. The other things on the network are various wireless devices, an xbox. I've got a cable modem as well. I'm pretty sure the issue isn't the router since I recently replaced the router and this is still happening. I've also tried seeing if there's an update for my ethernet card driver, no luck. I'm also using the google dns servers as at one time the networking repair told me something about being unable to resolve dns servers. I also don't believe it's a problem with my ISP or modem, as I had this issue at my previous apartment as well. It also doesn't appear to show up on other computers on the network. That leaves something misconfigured on my computer - but how on earth do I track down what it is? The only hint I've got is disabling and re-enabling my ethernet adapter appears to solve the problem (though this could be entirely in my head) on a temporary basis.
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Feb 26, 2012 23:46
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evilweasel posted:Bad connection to your computer. There is a very reasonable chance that your Ethernet card is busted. You might consider getting a new one.
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Feb 27, 2012 00:33
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Vaginal Engineer posted:There is a very reasonable chance that your Ethernet card is busted. You might consider getting a new one. Sounds like a plan, thanks.
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Feb 27, 2012 00:42
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evilweasel posted:I'm pretty sure the issue isn't the router since I recently replaced the router and this is still happening. I've also tried seeing if there's an update for my ethernet card driver, no luck. I'm also using the google dns servers as at one time the networking repair told me something about being unable to resolve dns servers. Google DNS might be your culprit. I've had it crap out on me and slow to a crawl enough times to not bother using it anymore - might be worth trying your ISPs DNS for a while and see if that resolves it.
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Feb 27, 2012 00:47
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Does the ethernet cable look good? Is it wiggly or loose? You can try replacing it.
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Feb 27, 2012 01:53
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fagalicious posted:Instead of using a E4200 why not just get two ubiquiti bullets and aim them at each other? I thought you were trying to be a smart rear end and I had a comment about bullets lined up at your head but then I Googled it.
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Feb 27, 2012 02:33
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evilweasel posted:I've got a problem that has cropped up every so often and is driving me nuts recently. I've got my desktop with a wired connection to my router, and every so often recently the internet connection goes to poo poo and everything will slow down, im will lose connection, web sites will load slowly or not at all, for no apparent reason. I'm not doing anything interesting on the connection at these times - no torrenting, no netflix, whatever. The other things on the network are various wireless devices, an xbox. I've got a cable modem as well. If you go through all of the possible problems with the gear inside your house and it still persists it could very well be an ISP problem. I noticed in the previous week that I've been losing connection, but that appears to be a problem with the DSLAM at the exchange, rather than my crappy modem.
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Feb 27, 2012 05:35
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Ration posted:Edit: Couldn't Ultimateforce overcome the 328 feet (100 meter) restriction by using Power Over Ethernet adapters? ch1mp posted:Hopefully a quick question - I have a computer running unbuntu in my garage on a separate internal subnet. I want to connect to windows shares on my office computer from this computer without exposing the office computer more than necessary. ultimateforce posted:Anyway, long story short I need a wireless bridge or switch in the detached building. If that's the case, I'm still going to recommend redoing the ethernet run and then picking up whatever cheapie wifi router you find. Set it into bridge mode and it should run like a champ in that building. You mentioned something about 90% signal, where are you getting that? Is your laptop already picking up the main house's signal well?
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Feb 27, 2012 10:34
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I have a question that might as well go here. For months my computer seemingly randomly goes out of sleep mode. At first I thought it was a program or process that I had kept on like steam or chrome doing it, and then I thought it was a virus or something, but I think I've figured out what it is. Whenever any device in my house uses the Netflix streaming service, it seems to happen. It doesn't matter what device. My tablet, my 3DS, the Wii upstairs, my PS3, whatever. It's not a big deal but I'm just curious why it would happen. Is it something my awful, purchased at Walmart router is doing?
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Feb 27, 2012 13:07
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chizad posted:
Ebay Im pondering getting a Trendnet TEW680MB media bridge for down stairs (I have htpc, receiver, tv, and xbox that could all plug in). It has good average speed for the location (C i think) on 5ghz with the trendnet 692 router, but i was pondering pairing with the Asus RT-N56U, since it has a good amount of throughput compared to say a wndr3700, etc. Anyone have either of the above mentioned items?
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Feb 27, 2012 18:35
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Smegmalicious posted:As long as we're asking comcast questions, can someone point me at a good modem? I'm sick of paying the rental fee! Also is there any reliability increase going from the modem I rent to one I'd own? Can you get a more reliable setup by buying? I was wondering the same thing, was looking at the Motorola SB6120 http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SB6120-SURFboard-eXtreme-Broadband/dp/B001UI2FPE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1330381150&sr=8-1
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Feb 27, 2012 23:19
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I was looking at the SB6120 too, that was my old modem with Cablevision and I never, ever had issues with it, then I moved to a Road Runner area and the SBG6580 they gave me crashes hourly. I just can't figure out if I'm allowed to use my own modem, every time I call support I get a different answer.
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Feb 28, 2012 18:52
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No one knows about the EV200 V2? Also would a wireless N adapter plugged into a computer connecting to an N router be as good as plugging a cable in from the router to the computer?
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Feb 28, 2012 21:57
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Vivec posted:Also would a wireless N adapter plugged into a computer connecting to an N router be as good as plugging a cable in from the router to the computer? No. It will never be as good, but it might be good enough.
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Feb 28, 2012 22:39
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