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chrisgt posted:I don't think they pulled the cable into the blades. There's a lot of turbulence around a helicopter rotor, the cable probably got sucked in. He grabbed the cable that was slung from the bottom of the fuselage to a higher point presumably on the structure. This pulled it into a V instead of a U, which pulled it closer to the rotor. You can see him jump up and pull it right before the crash.
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Mar 6, 2012 04:08
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opengl128 posted:I think this is the first time in recorded history that somebody was filming an event like this and kept the camera pointed at the subject rather then aiming it at their feet once it went bad. I guess it helps it was most likely a professional. I think this is the first time I've seen someone on the ground react properly which is to get the gently caress down so the poo poo going sideways doesn't lodge itself in your face/skull area.
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Mar 6, 2012 08:18
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Poing posted:He grabbed the cable that was slung from the bottom of the fuselage to a higher point presumably on the structure. This pulled it into a V instead of a U, which pulled it closer to the rotor. You can see him jump up and pull it right before the crash. That's my verdict too, but my layman's opinion is that the cable was way too close to the heli in the first place. Edit: I wonder if there is/will be an FAA style report on the incident? bolind fucked around with this message at 10:48 on Mar 6, 2012 |
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Mar 6, 2012 10:46
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There might be one already. My friend works for a heli lift company, they've used that video in training. It is the guy pulling on the cable which causes it, but that's just the last step in a chain of events/decisions that were wrong. Mid-post google: this thread on pprune has report quotes, an illustration and some discussion about some seeming disagreement between cable guy and pilot: http://www.pprune.org/rotorheads/469810-as350-crash-caught-live-tv-auckland-nz-5.html Judging from afar, I'd say that the first step was not having a good plan.
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Mar 6, 2012 11:20
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Having the cable be THAT short was probably a really lovely idea too. Also, an in-craft release operated by a crewman would have removed all need for him to hover that low.
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Mar 6, 2012 13:00
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Maybe I'm being thick, but I can't see the guy jumping up and grabbing onto the cable before the helicopter crashes in the last video posted. Which guy is it? edit: Wait, I see him now (black shirt, partially obscured by the guys standing there). He really reefs on it. Surprised he's alive. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Mar 6, 2012 |
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Mar 6, 2012 18:16
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opengl128 posted:I think this is the first time in recorded history that somebody was filming an event like this and kept the camera pointed at the subject rather then aiming it at their feet once it went bad. I guess it helps it was most likely a professional. It was a tripod. The videographer is the guy running across the frame 0:32-0:35.
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Mar 6, 2012 19:26
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He's also the guy in jeans and the hi-viz vest that jumps up to check on the unconscious pilot immediately after the crash. The guy who pulls the cable is the one that was thrown into the right background as the helicopter goes down. I think he came closer to death than just about anybody else.
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Mar 6, 2012 22:00
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bolind posted:That's my verdict too, but my layman's opinion is that the cable was way too close to the heli in the first place. There will be but it'll probably be a while yet. The preliminary report is here: http://www.caa.govt.nz/public_and_media_info/caa_releases/hig_prelim.htm
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Mar 6, 2012 23:40
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I've spent most of my spring break working on my 2002 Hyundai Accent. The flex pipe after the manifold started leaking, should have been easy to replace. The four bolts holding that section of exhaust together were rusted solid, ended up cutting them off with an oxy-actl torch (which promptly ran out of oxygen.) While I was under the car I noticed the front lower control arms were rusting to oblivion, of course 8 out of 8 bolts were stuck or fused to their bushing sleeves. Yeah, that big jagged edged hole shouldn't be there. I'll try to get some proper pictures tomorrow, I had to cut the control arms off the frame to get better access with the impact wrench so there are still some pieces to go.
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Mar 9, 2012 04:24
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just look at it as free speed holes, courtesy of the salt monster.
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Mar 9, 2012 04:40
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Whoa, that much deterioration on a ten year old car? You must live in an area where they salt the roads.
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Mar 9, 2012 04:54
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Yea thats crazy, all mine look perfect on my 93 Mark VIII other than no boots left. All florida miles though.
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Mar 9, 2012 04:58
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My lower control arms on my '02 WRX are starting to look that bad. Actually, I wish they did look that bad since they are doing a recall on them right now. If they are bad enough, they replace them. If they aren't bad enough, they just rust-proof them.
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Mar 9, 2012 05:05
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NE Ohio, pretty much legendary for stuff like this. I might need to pick up a new oil and transmission pan judging by the major surface rust. Or I can just stop caring, drive the car for a few more years and find something that isn't Korean  I have to take the hubs to a machine shop tomorrow to get them pressed out so I can replace the brake backing plates that rusted off (yes, they literally fell off the car.)
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Mar 9, 2012 05:05
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Time to get with the times, Ohio. We're reducing our salt! hahaha http://www.thestar.com/news/canada/article/1119287--beet-juice-melts-ice-from-winter-roads
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Mar 9, 2012 06:03
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bull3964 posted:My lower control arms on my '02 WRX are starting to look that bad. Actually, I wish they did look that bad since they are doing a recall on them right now. If they are bad enough, they replace them. If they aren't bad enough, they just rust-proof them. Just spray a high concentration salt solution on it... Then you'll get new ones. Or come to Maine and drive around in the winter. You'll be eligible in about 3 days.
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Mar 9, 2012 13:48
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bull3964 posted:My lower control arms on my '02 WRX are starting to look that bad. Actually, I wish they did look that bad since they are doing a recall on them right now. If they are bad enough, they replace them. If they aren't bad enough, they just rust-proof them.
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Mar 9, 2012 15:40
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MonkeyNutZ posted:My sister's Forester has been at a dealership for 6 weeks waiting for new control arms as part of a recall. Turns out the parts are back ordered and won't be available until mid APRIL. Luckily she's loving the brand new Legacy they gave her to drive in the mean time. That's another reason why I'm waiting right now. I can afford to leave it sit right now and not drive it as much until they catch up with the recall.
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Mar 9, 2012 16:19
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bull3964 posted:That's another reason why I'm waiting right now. I can afford to leave it sit right now and not drive it as much until they catch up with the recall. You can't get the car checked out under the recall and then have them give it back to you until the parts come in to repair the damage? If not ask very nicely for an equivalent free loaner/rental car due to the obvious safety concerns.
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Mar 9, 2012 17:37
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H110Hawk posted:You can't get the car checked out under the recall and then have them give it back to you until the parts come in to repair the damage? If not ask very nicely for an equivalent free loaner/rental car due to the obvious safety concerns. I don't really want my car sitting around at a dealership for an unknown amount of time waiting for parts. It can sit just as fine in my driveway. My '02 sees maybe 30-50 miles a week right now since I primarily use my '11 so I'm not really worried about the safety concerns. I've been under it recently and there's no obvious holes yet, so they should be fine for awhile. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Mar 9, 2012 |
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Mar 9, 2012 18:19
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H110Hawk posted:You can't get the car checked out under the recall and then have them give it back to you until the parts come in to repair the damage? If not ask very nicely for an equivalent free loaner/rental car due to the obvious safety concerns. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Mar 9, 2012 |
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Mar 9, 2012 18:34
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Had to make a 5" x 2" hole in the frame to re-weld the broken captive nut some jerk engineer at Hyundai thought would be a good idea. Ended up with new bearings, backing plates, lower control arms, and sway bar end links. 
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Mar 10, 2012 23:56
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 On the left, a horrible metallurgical failure: the base of a bumpstop after 21 years of salt spray. No idea how I managed to get the mounting bolts out without breaking them, but I need to buy some lotto tickets tomorrow. On the right, the results of a horrible mechanical failure: a Spicer 5-297x u-joint (or rather, what's left of it) plus parts of the inner and outer axleshaft yoke ears. 33" tire, cutting the wheel, and a bit of bouncing + shock loading trying to pull my dodge 2500 van out of the snow a few weeks ago with my Jeep. Fortunately this time I heard the *bang* and thought to myself "huh, that sounded like something important just parted ways with my drivetrain" and stopped to see what was wrong, unlike last time, when I bounced on a rock while climbing a hill and had no time to react, because the ujoint exploded, the axleshaft yoke ears rode up on each other, and it separated my balljoints and let my right front steering knuckle part ways with the rest of the truck... all in a fraction of a second.
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Mar 13, 2012 04:05
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Volkswagen, I don't think we can be friends any more. I mean sure, we used to hang out all the time and have  adventures all the time, but come on bro. I looked the other way all those times you said all those painfully uncomfortable things about my mom, because hey what's a good joke between friends, right? And that time Steve told me he caught you checking out furaffinity at work. Look, I won't judge, we all have our kinks. But then you linked me to your Bad Dragon testimonial video. And showed the world not only your shocking lack of shame and decency, but your lovingly crafted hand made double appendaged "personal aide."With a picture of me haphazardly glued to it. I....I'll always remember the good times man  2000 Passat came in with a left front upper forward (  ) ball joint bad. Went to remove the bolt holding them in and it wouldn't come out. So we tried soaking it in penetrant. No dice. Tried hammering it. Nope. Tried air hammering it. Hah I wish. Induction heated till it was glowing hot. Bent me over and asked for more. So we had to do whatever it took. Which involved dropping the strut, pulling the hub off, and all this bullshit. Sure would have been nice to just unbolt the arms but no, that'd be too easy.  gently caress you, man. We used to be cool.  Oh did I mention the tie rod bolt was the same poo poo so I wound up unthreading it apart rather than deal with all this poo poo.  Behold, what originally was supposed to be a 1 hour job, 3 days later after everything had been approved. 
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Mar 15, 2012 01:24
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So glad I scrapped my B5 at 65k miles before that happened to it.
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Mar 15, 2012 02:17
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Those are notorious for that. Plus if you did it slightly wrong (i think there needs to be weight on it when you tighten something, I don't remember), it will be back in 10k mi. If you get a lot of passats/A4s, VW makes a special tool for removing those that does it fairly quickly (through magic maybe?), but it costs a small fortune.
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Mar 15, 2012 03:07
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holy hell gently caress that. I am suddenly very glad I have a crummy-handling, live axle truck. I think I can get my entire frontend out, rebuilt, and back in faster than that. In fact I know I can, because balljoints are a 30 minute per side job, unit bearings are another 5 added per side, and removing and replacing the entire axle assembly takes 4 hours... Another entry in the Horrible Metallurgical Failures list: how I learned this. gently caress you, road salt, and the holes you put in my trailing arm mounts!
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Mar 15, 2012 03:13
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nm posted:Those are notorious for that. Plus if you did it slightly wrong (i think there needs to be weight on it when you tighten something, I don't remember), it will be back in 10k mi. Dont say this 
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Mar 15, 2012 03:17
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Dr 14 INCH DICK Md posted:Dont say this Yeah, you usually have to tighten the rubber bushings down while the car is sitting on the wheels. If you tighten them while the suspension is at full droop it results in preload in the rubber bushings, which leads to early demise.
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Mar 15, 2012 03:25
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Noted, I was told she might be coming back in a few weeks to do the other 3  and I'll just, ahem, touch it up as it were when that happens.
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Mar 15, 2012 03:26
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Dr 14 INCH DICK Md posted:Noted, I was told she might be coming back in a few weeks to do the other 3 The b5 front suspension is just notoriously terrible both for durability and ease of fixing. nm fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Mar 15, 2012 |
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Mar 15, 2012 04:47
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kastein posted:holy hell gently caress that. Rangers are the best thing. I put a Roush swaybar and some Edelbrock shocks on mine and it handles like a gokart. Turn in is even more ridiculously awesome when I toe out a bit in the front. It's the closest thing I can find to a Go-Kart-Tractor.
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Mar 15, 2012 17:04
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Rangers are the best thing. I put a Roush swaybar and some Edelbrock shocks on mine and it handles like a gokart. Turn in is even more ridiculously awesome when I toe out a bit in the front. It's the closest thing I can find to a Go-Kart-Tractor. Do go on. The idea of a pickup that can handle intrigues me. I started looking and it seemed like more people are interested in bro lifts than re-creating an El Camino.
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Mar 15, 2012 17:47
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Dr 14 INCH DICK Md posted:
I used up almost all my obscene vocabulary while extracting the left hand side bolt on my Passat. Purely by mistake, I managed to find out a quick method which proved helpful when I did the right hand side. Like everyone else I first tried hammering, soaking with penetrating oil etc. Then, I tried to twist the bolt, but only managed to twist off the head. This almost had me giving up when I realized that with the head gone I could reassemble the nut and by tightening, extract the bolt the other way. Luckily the threads were still in decent condition. When I reached the end of the thread I just put in a couple of washers and continued working the bolt out slowly. I was just  the whole time as I repeated the procedure on the right hand side.
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Mar 15, 2012 21:41
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dev/null posted:I realized that with the head gone I could reassemble the nut and by tightening, extract the bolt the other way.  I love you guys.
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Mar 15, 2012 21:51
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If you twist the head off you can always just use a drift punch and a big rear end hammer (or air hammer, in enclosed spaces or when lazy) and push the shaft right out.
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Mar 15, 2012 22:02
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Yeah that's what eventually got it out. It's also what bent it over in the first place. I couldn't get it to come out in the car after repeated attempts but for whatever reason after I had that poo poo all removed and clamped in a vice it finally decided to cooperate.
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Mar 15, 2012 22:04
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Dr 14 INCH DICK Md posted:Yeah that's what eventually got it out. It's also what bent it over in the first place. I couldn't get it to come out in the car after repeated attempts but for whatever reason after I had that poo poo all removed and clamped in a vice it finally decided to cooperate. The problem is that the inertia of the hammer punch is lost if the strut is allowed to move even the slightest. By fixating it in the vice, the bolt had to take the whole impact.
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Mar 16, 2012 00:07
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Dr 14 INCH DICK Md posted:Yeah that's what eventually got it out. It's also what bent it over in the first place. I couldn't get it to come out in the car after repeated attempts but for whatever reason after I had that poo poo all removed and clamped in a vice it finally decided to cooperate. Once you got it into a vise, it finally realized that you were serious.
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Mar 16, 2012 00:53
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