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internet celebrity
Jun 23, 2006

College Slice

Scottw330 posted:

What kind of pot do you use for your 3 gallon BIAB batches? Do you do everything on your stove-top?

Yep, it's all done in a 5.5 gallon pot on my stove.

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Jo3sh
Oct 19, 2002

Like all girls I love unicorns!

wattershed posted:

Help me understand something here? I'm just beginning to scratch the surface of kegging and the knowledge surrounding it...

One of the user photos shows two 5-gal kegs + a CO2 tank inside, but there's one tap on the top. I'm assuming the person who took that photo would have to do a lot of line switching or something like that to make use of the tap? Or would that just be a convenient way to keep them both refrigerated, and I shouldn't switch back and forth between which line is connected to the tap, as that makes things taste lovely/contaminated/etc?

Do they have easy ways to turning what's being sold on those pages into dual-tap dispensers without making the whole setup a lot larger?

I haven't done it, as my taps are through the door of a regular kitchen fridge, but I know it's possible. You might be able to modify the existing tower to get another faucet on there, or you might have to buy a new tower. You certainly will have to swap out the keg coupler for quick disconnects compatible with Cornies.

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe

Jo3sh posted:

I also use a paint strainer bag for my hops - I use pellets - and it works great. The huge majority of the hop goop stays in the bag. I also don't worry about it touching the bottom of the pot.

As I understand the physics of heat transfer, the liquid in the pot means that the inside surface of the pot really can't be any hotter than the boiling point of the wort. As more energy is added to the metal, it is absorbed by the liquid, causing phase change. The heat absorbed in the phase change cools the rest of the mass, keeping it at 212 degrees Fahrenheit.

And anyway, convection keeps the bag off the bottom pretty reliably in my experience.

The metal can definitely get hotter than the boiling point of the wort. It is probably the convection keeping the sack for staying in contact with the hot metal long enough to burn or melt.

Bruinator
Jul 6, 2005

wattershed posted:

Help me understand something here? I'm just beginning to scratch the surface of kegging and the knowledge surrounding it...

One of the user photos shows two 5-gal kegs + a CO2 tank inside, but there's one tap on the top. I'm assuming the person who took that photo would have to do a lot of line switching or something like that to make use of the tap? Or would that just be a convenient way to keep them both refrigerated, and I shouldn't switch back and forth between which line is connected to the tap, as that makes things taste lovely/contaminated/etc?

Do they have easy ways to turning what's being sold on those pages into dual-tap dispensers without making the whole setup a lot larger?

It's designed and set up for Sanke, so if you want to use homebrew you need to do a little work on it.

I've got one of those as my second kegerator, a guy who knows I homebrew was selling it and offered me the whole thing with a 20 pound CO2 tank for $150. It's a little louder than my little Sanyo fridge and the tower insulation isn't fantastic but it's a good fridge. It will fit two ball locks with some extra space since the door is shaped to hold a half barrel keg. Mine was modified with a hole in the side for the 20lb tank's hose so I don't know how it would work with a 5lb CO2 tank. The tiny tank that came with it doesn't look like it would last long at all. I tossed all the old lines and converted it over to that 3/16 bevseal ultra barrier tubing with MFL fittings. I've been using it to lager one corny while dispensing another. I also use it with the slim quarters I pressure ferment in from time to time. I'm planning to pick up a half barrel keg to do 10 gallon pressure batches.

It shouldn't be a big deal to pop the tower off and put a dual tower on. I'll probably do it eventually but I really don't need a second tap in my office, one is bad enough.

Now on to my question: First time Brett user here. I've got an Orval style beer fermented with White Labs Bastogne down to about 1.010. About a week ago I transferred it into a corny, threw in a tube of Brett B, and stuck a blowoff on the gas out. I popped the lid yesterday to see my first pellicle and was rewarded with nothing - just the clean beer surface, no sign or smell of brett. Should I have made a starter? What temperature do you guys usually use Brett in the secondary at? I was planning to give it another 3-4 weeks at 59 degrees. Do I just need to relax and give it some more time?

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

withak posted:

The metal can definitely get hotter than the boiling point of the wort. It is probably the convection keeping the sack for staying in contact with the hot metal long enough to burn or melt.

My plan for dealing with this (this weekend) is to put a metal colander in the bottom of the pot. Any reason not to?

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe

Splizwarf posted:

My plan for dealing with this (this weekend) is to put a metal colander in the bottom of the pot. Any reason not to?

That's what I do.

wafflesnsegways
Jan 12, 2008
And that's why I was forced to surgically attach your hands to your face.
So I'm brewing all the beer for my wedding, and decided to make some of northern brewer's patersbier recipe as the the low-alcohol, yellow fizzy beer of the night.

After two weeks of fermenting, and 10 days in the bottle, I just tried one. (Really early, I know, but I am on a SCHEDULE here, and need to know if I should make more or switch recipes.) It tasted... great, actually, but really, really Belgiany. So I'm worried it may not actually be a good beer for people who just want something light and familiar.

So will that belgian funk die down much? Or is it just going to be a strong-tasting beer? This is the first time I've used a belgian yeast, so I'm not really sure how they age.

Bleston Humenthal
Nov 5, 2008

What are you doing, Julian! The chicken fingers aren’t even cooked! You want us to get sasparilla or something, you dick!

wafflesnsegways posted:

So I'm brewing all the beer for my wedding, and decided to make some of northern brewer's patersbier recipe as the the low-alcohol, yellow fizzy beer of the night.

After two weeks of fermenting, and 10 days in the bottle, I just tried one. (Really early, I know, but I am on a SCHEDULE here, and need to know if I should make more or switch recipes.) It tasted... great, actually, but really, really Belgiany. So I'm worried it may not actually be a good beer for people who just want something light and familiar.

So will that belgian funk die down much? Or is it just going to be a strong-tasting beer? This is the first time I've used a belgian yeast, so I'm not really sure how they age.

It will likely remain fairly flavorful, but it should drop off a bit over time. I ran into the same problem brewing for my wedding. I ended up going with a cream ale for the easy drinker. It worked well.

Scottw330
Jan 24, 2005

Please, Hammer,
Don't Hurt Em :(
Does anyone have a preferred method of measuring the temperature of a 5 gallon stove-top pot? Currently I have a small thermometer, and an infrared thermometer (laser guided!), but I'm not sure if either of these will be accurate enough for BIAB. Could anyone recommend a clip-on style thermometer to clip onto the pot?

Docjowles
Apr 9, 2009

Why not test the ones you have? Take the temp of boiling water and make sure it's what it should be (adjusted for elevation if necessary). Then pack a jar or large glass with ice, fill with water and make sure it reads very close to freezing. Of course that assumes your thermometers have that entire range available.

I use something like this, and find it very accurate. Maybe some day I'll splurge on a Thermapen... :fap:

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!
I use a big candy thermometer.

James Bont
Apr 20, 2007
do you expect me to talk?

Bruinator posted:

Now on to my question: First time Brett user here. I've got an Orval style beer fermented with White Labs Bastogne down to about 1.010. About a week ago I transferred it into a corny, threw in a tube of Brett B, and stuck a blowoff on the gas out. I popped the lid yesterday to see my first pellicle and was rewarded with nothing - just the clean beer surface, no sign or smell of brett. Should I have made a starter? What temperature do you guys usually use Brett in the secondary at? I was planning to give it another 3-4 weeks at 59 degrees. Do I just need to relax and give it some more time?

While I haven't done anything with brett (yet!) I'm pretty sure that it takes a while to really do anything. Probably wanna give it a month or two minimum, unlike regular yeast where you just pitch it then in a day or two you got krausen threatening to blow the airlock off a carboy.


Docjowles posted:

Why not test the ones you have? Take the temp of boiling water and make sure it's what it should be (adjusted for elevation if necessary). Then pack a jar or large glass with ice, fill with water and make sure it reads very close to freezing. Of course that assumes your thermometers have that entire range available.

I use something like this, and find it very accurate. Maybe some day I'll splurge on a Thermapen... :fap:
I bought this a couple of months back and finally got to use it for a brewday last week. I'm pretty drat happy with it. Same people who make thermapen, just $70 cheaper and takes a couple of seconds longer to get a temp. Still, like 5 seconds for a temp is great, way better than just the regular cooking thermometer I was using before.

After a hiatus in brewing taking care of some bullshit, I finally got my IPA fermenting. Equal parts amarillo/ sorachi ace, hoping it works out well. Looks like fermentation is nearly done in fact so I'll probably start dry hopping tomorrow. Hooray! Thinking about doing a witbier next, I'm not especially familiar with the style so I figure it'll be a good way to learn.

James Bont fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Mar 11, 2012

deebo
Jan 21, 2004

I just tried a witbier. I know nothing much about them and this was my first. Didn't have any oranges so went with zest of 2 lemons, 3 chamomile teabags and about 11g coriander seed 5 mins from end of boil. Smelt pretty good but think might benefit from more zest or coriander seeds. Will see once fermentation ends

wattershed
Dec 27, 2002

Radio got his free iPod, did you get yours???
I've followed instructions on how to clean my primary fermentation bucket, now that I've transferred to the secondary. I can't get the goddamn smell of star anise out of the bucket no matter what I do, and there's definitely a slightly yellow hue on the inside of the bucket that didn't go away after cleaning.

I can't imagine I screwed up the cleaning, but it's days later, I've cleaned it a few times using the powdered wash that came with my original kit, and that smell is still there. I'm concerned that something will transfer over to the next beer I put in there.

Help or advice?

Josh Wow
Feb 28, 2005

We need more beer up here!
Primary buckets smell, generally of hops. They're also gonna be yellow/green. Neither one ever hurts anything for me, although I've never used star anise either. Maybe make something that wouldn't be bad with a hint of star anise next just in case, although I don't think you'll have any flavor carry over from it.

Butt Soup Barnes
Nov 25, 2008

My buddy and and I just bottled our first brew, a red ale. Is it okay to put some of them in the fridge now or will that mess with the yeast?

Docjowles
Apr 9, 2009

Let it sit somewhere warm and dark for a few weeks. If you chuck it in the fridge right away they will take forever to carbonate.

Cpt.Wacky
Apr 17, 2005

Butt Soup Barnes posted:

My buddy and and I just bottled our first brew, a red ale. Is it okay to put some of them in the fridge now or will that mess with the yeast?

Assuming you want some carbonation, yes. Give it 2 weeks at room temperature.

Since I was beaten, a little extra contribution: I'm really looking forward to attending my first homebrew club meeting next Sunday, held at the town's brand new and only LHBS!

Cpt.Wacky fucked around with this message at 04:24 on Mar 12, 2012

Butt Soup Barnes
Nov 25, 2008

Alright, that's what I figured. Thanks!

Jo3sh
Oct 19, 2002

Like all girls I love unicorns!

wattershed posted:

I've followed instructions on how to clean my primary fermentation bucket, now that I've transferred to the secondary. I can't get the goddamn smell of star anise out of the bucket no matter what I do, and there's definitely a slightly yellow hue on the inside of the bucket that didn't go away after cleaning.

I find a nice long soak in TSP helps a lot. I haven't ever dealt with star anise, but it does get rid of gunk. Use the hottest water you can get from your faucet, then let is soak for a few days.

Angry Grimace
Jul 29, 2010

ACTUALLY IT IS VERY GOOD THAT THE SHOW IS BAD AND ANYONE WHO DOESN'T REALIZE WHY THAT'S GOOD IS AN IDIOT. JUST ENJOY THE BAD SHOW INSTEAD OF THINKING.
My pale ale finished up before my IPA even carbonated. Now I have a poo poo-ton of beer that's like 2-3 weeks away from being ready to drink, but no actual ready-to-drink beer at the house that isn't either 1 bottle of Sucaba or a few Victory at Seas (neither of which I'm going to drink after a long day at work/school.) I did drink about a pint of the pale ale uncarbed (didn't have enough to fill a 22, but no more 12 oz. bottles) and room temperature and found it pretty good, so I hope that's a good sign. I suppose I could have just left the beer in the fermenter for a while longer, but I already know I'm not gonna have much time in the next 4 weeks before finals start.

Having the bottle capper is the best thing ever for a beer nerd - I sometimes open a bomber of imperial stout or something and have it passably fresh the next day, where normally I'd have to drink the whole thing even when it's inadvisable to do so (or drainpour).

Angry Grimace fucked around with this message at 11:46 on Mar 12, 2012

drewhead
Jun 22, 2002

LeeMajors posted:

I'm entering my first homebrew competition soon. It's fairly unorganized, as are most homebrewing activities in my area, but I'm entering a Red IPA and a stout.

:stare:

Wish me luck.

My memory is fairly faulty these days but you're in Colombia right? You wouldn't be talking about the one over in Hartsville this weekend would you? I'm thinking of going down for the day as a buddy of mine is judging, and yea 'unorganized' is an understatement for what they are attempting. :)

The Shamrock Open (Raleigh NC) was this past weekend and I took second in category 7 with a Alt. Woot! I'm pretty excited to place somewhere that reportedly had 429 entries.

LeeMajors
Jan 20, 2005

I've gotta stop fantasizing about Lee Majors...
Ah, one more!


drewhead posted:

My memory is fairly faulty these days but you're in Colombia right? You wouldn't be talking about the one over in Hartsville this weekend would you? I'm thinking of going down for the day as a buddy of mine is judging, and yea 'unorganized' is an understatement for what they are attempting. :)

The Shamrock Open (Raleigh NC) was this past weekend and I took second in category 7 with a Alt. Woot! I'm pretty excited to place somewhere that reportedly had 429 entries.

I'm in Charleston--it's just a homebrew competition put on by Westbrook and Lowcountry Libations. Should be interesting. Our beer has been asymptotically better and we entertain, probably foolishly, dreams of opening a commercial brewery in the next 5-7yrs, so we are cautiously optimistic.

That's pretty awesome about placing that high--that's a lot of entries. I'm not sure how many will be doing this one. I'm just excited to see if our perceived huge improvements are real or being colored by our hard work. We shall see.

lazerwolf
Dec 22, 2009

Orange and Black
The pale ale brew day went well! A little mishap here and there but right now the beer's fermenting away at 64*

The paint strainer bag worked well to clear out the hop junk before I cooled it down however a bit of it melted on the outside of the kettle. oops. I boiled 3 gallons of top off water in case and it only got down to 100* when the wort was chilled so I had to wort chiller the top off water...but all in all excellent brew day!

This is about 16 hours later

LeeMajors
Jan 20, 2005

I've gotta stop fantasizing about Lee Majors...
Ah, one more!


lazerwolf posted:

The pale ale brew day went well! A little mishap here and there but right now the beer's fermenting away at 64*

The paint strainer bag worked well to clear out the hop junk before I cooled it down however a bit of it melted on the outside of the kettle. oops. I boiled 3 gallons of top off water in case and it only got down to 100* when the wort was chilled so I had to wort chiller the top off water...but all in all excellent brew day!

This is about 16 hours later


Consider Irish Moss at some point in addition to your hop bags. I'm not sure how it works exactly, but you add 15min prior to flameout. I assume there are either some enzymes or binding agents that drop the proteins out of solution--which drastically clears your beer. When I started using it, I couldn't believe it took me so long.

lazerwolf
Dec 22, 2009

Orange and Black

LeeMajors posted:

Consider Irish Moss at some point in addition to your hop bags. I'm not sure how it works exactly, but you add 15min prior to flameout. I assume there are either some enzymes or binding agents that drop the proteins out of solution--which drastically clears your beer. When I started using it, I couldn't believe it took me so long.

I think I went a bit overkill, hop bag in the boil, chilled the beer and poured the wort through another sanitized paint strainer bag into a fermentation bucket, topped off to 5 gallons with the pre-boiled water THEN siphoned from the bucket into the carboy...

I plan on cold crashing in about 3 weeks too so if this beer isn't clear I guess Irish moss is the next step

space pope
Apr 5, 2003

Well, my first batch was indeed a disaster as I expected. Way over carbonated and filled with sediment. My girlfriend said it smelled like dishsoap and wouldn't even try it. It was way too fizzy and tasted like vinegar I think. Sigh, I'll try another batch after I get some studying done during spring break.

Docjowles
Apr 9, 2009

Let it sit somewhere for a few months and try it again, even lovely homebrew often gets WAY better with a bit of age. But that said, it kinda sounds like you got an infection if it really tastes of vinegar. Be extra super careful with sanitizing anything that touches beer post-boil next time.

Cpt.Wacky
Apr 17, 2005

space pope posted:

Well, my first batch was indeed a disaster as I expected. Way over carbonated and filled with sediment. My girlfriend said it smelled like dishsoap and wouldn't even try it. It was way too fizzy and tasted like vinegar I think. Sigh, I'll try another batch after I get some studying done during spring break.

I like this MoreBeer guide to off-tastes. Soapy could be letting it sit in primary too long. Were you checking the gravity to see when it finished fermenting, or did you just wait "long enough" before bottling?

nesbit37
Dec 12, 2003
Emperor of Rome
(500 BC - 500 AD)
If it tasted like vinegar thats probably exactly what it was becoming. Don't let the fruit flies get in there.

lazerwolf
Dec 22, 2009

Orange and Black
Now that my pale ale is fermenting away, time to help out a friend brew one of his kits. He has a brown ale kit and we want to spice it up a bit and make it a coffee brown ale.

Brewgoons, what's your favorite ways to add coffee flavor to a beer without adding the harsh bitterness to the beer.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

Cpt.Wacky posted:

Were you checking the gravity to see when it finished fermenting, or did you just wait "long enough" before bottling?

How does this work? All the recipes I've seen so far just say "5-7 days in the primary" and don't list a way to tell beyond that. Although it makes sense, I didn't really think about how a tighter timeframe might be observable. Puts a damper on "Started it on Sunday so I'll rack it to the secondary when I have time this upcoming weekend."

Docjowles
Apr 9, 2009

I put about 50 grams of coarsely ground coffee into a hop bag, put it at the bottom of a secondary carboy and rack on top of it. After 48 hours, I rack to a keg. Gets a nice smooth flavor.

Just be careful not to leave it too long in secondary. My last coffee stout I unexpectedly got super busy after adding the coffee so it sat like 4 days. It was WAY too strong.

Daedalus Esquire
Mar 30, 2008

Splizwarf posted:

How does this work? All the recipes I've seen so far just say "5-7 days in the primary" and don't list a way to tell beyond that. Although it makes sense, I didn't really think about how a tighter timeframe might be observable. Puts a damper on "Started it on Sunday so I'll rack it to the secondary when I have time this upcoming weekend."

I can't remember what your setup is, did you buy an equipment kit? It should have come with a hydrometer. Basically, after visible activity dies down in your fermentation bucket you have two options.

A. Put the hydrometer right into the bucket (very hard to accurately do with a carboy and risks breaking trying to get it out)
or
B. Pull a sample of the beer and put the hydrometer in the sample (need a wine thief or some tubing)

Repeat over the course of two or three days, if the hydrometer is reading the same measurement, then fermentation is done.
At this point, you can move to bottling, though a lot of people choose to let it sit in the bucket longer so that the yeast has more time to clean up any byproducts through re-absorption and converting them into additional ethanol or compounds that won't have an effect on flavor.
A pretty common and popular example would be people letting their wort get warmer as they approach their estimated final gravity so that the yeast cleans up the diacetyl (a ketone that makes beer feel "slick" in the mouth and adds an often off-putting buttery or butterscotch flavor) they previously produced.

Also, if you are lazy like me, there are ways to estimate what your final gravity should finish around using calculators online or beer software like qbrew or beersmith. By knowing estimated FG, you can take a hydrometer reading and if it's where you expect it to be, you are probably done, just check it once more the next day to make sure it didn't drop further.

Daedalus Esquire fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Mar 12, 2012

Cpt.Wacky
Apr 17, 2005

Splizwarf posted:

How does this work? All the recipes I've seen so far just say "5-7 days in the primary" and don't list a way to tell beyond that. Although it makes sense, I didn't really think about how a tighter timeframe might be observable. Puts a damper on "Started it on Sunday so I'll rack it to the secondary when I have time this upcoming weekend."

Daedalus Esquire covered it well. I don't think the concern about leaving it in primary is nearly as much of a concern with modern brewing yeast strains as it used to be in the past.

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
FORUM POLICE
Anyone got a tasty suggestion for what I should brew next? We're moderately experienced at brewing, we have a mashing/sparging setup for all-grain brewing and a cooling coil, and here's a list of brews we've done over the past couple years:

Brown Ale, 1x5gal
Imperial Stout, 3x10gal (Guinness wannabe)
Oktoberfest, 1x5gal + 1x10gal (wheat ale)
Spotted Dog, 2x10gal (malty/hoppy ale, almost tastes like ginger ale)
Oatmeal Stout, 2x10gal
English Ale 1x5gal (a bitter, I believe)
Doppelbock, 2x5gal
Light Ale, 2x10gal

We currently have an IPA mixed and ready to go. We generally like dark beers, the Spotted Dog and Imperial Stout are perennial favorites. I'm in love with Goose Island Honker's Ale and Redhook's ESB (bitters), so if anyone's had either of those and can recommend a similar recipe I'd be down with that too. We're not really that into lagers. I'm totally open to suggestions though. I do have ProMash so I can look it up if you have a file.

By the way, fun trick I discovered with ESB: drop it in a freezer for a few minutes, pull it out just as it's starting to slush. You have a beer slushie, and the liquid is creamy and delicious. Do be careful, you are basically making ice beer.

Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Mar 13, 2012

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
FORUM POLICE

Cpt.Wacky posted:

Daedalus Esquire covered it well. I don't think the concern about leaving it in primary is nearly as much of a concern with modern brewing yeast strains as it used to be in the past.

We accidentally left a batch of Oatmeal Stout in the primary for way, way too long. It was at least a month, if not more like two. It had a weird licorice taste that went away as it aged. We almost threw it away, but a couple months later it was fine. Not the best batch I've ever done, but perfectly drinkable.

Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Mar 13, 2012

Docjowles
Apr 9, 2009

Paul MaudDib posted:

I'm in love with Goose Island Honker's Ale and Redhook's ESB (bitters), so if anyone's had either of those and can recommend a similar recipe I'd be down with that too.

You're looking at the time of year I like to have a heftier "light" beer on hand, like a pilsner at the high end of the style, or a wit or hefeweizen brewed with a good body. But since I have an ESB recipe I'm pretty happy with, here's that instead. A little bit of a American/English hybrid.

code:
OG: 1.056
FG: 1.012
ABV: 5.8%
IBU's: 43 (Rager formula)

Treated the boil water with 0.5 tsp of gypsum

85% Maris Otter
7% Malted white wheat
5% Crystal 20L
3% Crystal 120L

Mash at 152 *F

60 min - 41 IBU worth of Cascade (sub whatever bittering hop you want, doesn't matter much as long as
it's not super intense like Sorachi Ace or something)
10 min - 7 grams Willamette
5 min - 15 grams Willamette
0 min - 28 grams Willamette

Yeast - WLP007 Dry English Ale

Ferment at 68 *F

Dry hop 1 week with 28 grams of Willamette

Josh Wow
Feb 28, 2005

We need more beer up here!

Paul MaudDib posted:

Anyone got a tasty suggestion for what I should brew next?

Good lord man, you've never brewed a Belgian beer! They're easy and delicious. If you want malty then give this a try for a malty and dark dubbel:

10 lbs vienna
1 lb special b
.5 lb aromatic
.5lb honey malt

1 lb amber or dark Belgian candi sugar

1.5 oz hallertauer 60 min
1 oz hallertauer 20 min
.5 oz hallertauer 10 min

Awesome Belgian yeast. I usually prefer Wyeast 3787 which is the Westmalle yeast, but the 1214 (chimay) or 1762 (rochefort) would both work well in this.

This will be a fair bit darker than your standard dubbel but should make a great beer along the lines of what you're looking for.

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drewhead
Jun 22, 2002

LeeMajors posted:

I'm in Charleston--it's just a homebrew competition put on by Westbrook and Lowcountry Libations. Should be interesting. Our beer has been asymptotically better and we entertain, probably foolishly, dreams of opening a commercial brewery in the next 5-7yrs, so we are cautiously optimistic.

That's pretty awesome about placing that high--that's a lot of entries. I'm not sure how many will be doing this one. I'm just excited to see if our perceived huge improvements are real or being colored by our hard work. We shall see.

Ahh, so you would be talking about Colonial Cup. I'll be sending you guys a few things as well. Good luck to your entries and your club. I'm hoping to Stewart when CMB holds the Charlotte US Open in May assuming they don't do it on race weekend again.

Charleston's beer scene has come a long way. There are some great brewers down there now. We were down there two weekends ago and I fell in love with Holy City's Pluff Mud Porter and was crushed I couldn't find their Bowens Island Oyster Stout. But all those guys need to start putting a tap room downtown. :colbert: I'm tired of driving down from Charlotte and going to South End... it just feels wrong.

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