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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:
The amount of dirt on that makes me think less "fake wheels" and more "running into poo poo".
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Mar 20, 2012 20:18
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 00:27 |
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Uhhh, yeah, that's definitely a curbing right there.
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Mar 20, 2012 20:31
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Those wheels are stock for that car so I don't see why they would be fake.
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Mar 20, 2012 20:38
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I hate it when I crash into curbs and my wheels crack!
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Mar 20, 2012 20:55
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revmoo posted:Those wheels are stock for that car so I don't see why they would be fake. Could be stock for a higher trim model?
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Mar 20, 2012 20:58
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There are a lot of companies that make fairly good replicas and all fit the BMW center caps.
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Mar 20, 2012 21:40
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I've seen a lot of examples of that with BMW rims, and here is a link of people with similar problems (no pictures, just discussion). http://forums.automotive.com/70/7771664/tires-wheels/why-isnt-bmw-owning-up-to-the-18-inch-wheel-cracki/index.html
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Mar 20, 2012 21:46
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If you ever saw my posts in the projects thread you would know why this failure is near and dear to my heart  
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Mar 21, 2012 16:32
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revmoo posted:Those wheels are stock for that car so I don't see why they would be fake. it was sarcasm.
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Mar 21, 2012 17:40
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Well, you're not very good at sarcasm, then.
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Mar 21, 2012 18:49
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chrisgt posted:I hydrolocked the ea81 in my Subaru at decently high RPMs. Cranked the water past the rings. Lots more cranking it fired up and I drove it home. Changed the oil, and it's been fine for many thousand miles. Good compression and nice oil pressure. EA81s are pretty drat tough. The one in my VW had signs of being mercilessly beaten on before I got my hands on it. Like it being encrusted in dirt, gravel and mud. Even inside the carburettor. The rad fans were both shot too. One was seized and the other had stripped the locking thing on the fan so the motor was freewheeling. The distributor was questionable and actually ended up melting the distributor cap and the insulator on the points, plus I found a bit of mayo and metal filings in the coolant tank. Still had great compression though. I've not ventured into it afraid of other demons but it's been tweaked enough to run acceptably. In the interim it ran horribly rich and lean to the point where it probably would have been happy to run on indefinitely were it not for the black tar it was coughing out of the manifold indicating to me it wasn't getting fuel. Honestly that motor is hosed but I think it should still get a lot more runtime because it doesn't knock and its compression is still good.
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Mar 21, 2012 23:07
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um 
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Mar 22, 2012 03:05
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Savington posted:um finally, an actual warped brake rotor
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Mar 22, 2012 03:23
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Savington posted:um Composite rotor, I presume? Was this thing rusted on and removed with a sledge, or was it in an accident?
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Mar 22, 2012 03:31
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Savington posted:um "So it's been making a bit of noise for a while whenever I brake..."
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Mar 22, 2012 03:33
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This came into the shop like this? How the gently caress does a rotor get like this? Warping is usually minute, not inches of deflection. Did you cause this by laying this on a fire first?
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Mar 22, 2012 03:58
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I don't think I could cause that much warping even by laying it on a fire. Goddamn.
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Mar 22, 2012 05:26
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Story, please.
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Mar 22, 2012 06:40
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But...but according to AI and the internet warping is a myth! Totally saving that picture to use whenever anyone mentions rotors warping.
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Mar 22, 2012 06:59
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IOwnCalculus posted:The amount of dirt on that makes me think less "fake wheels" and more "running into poo poo". Speaking of lovely fake wheels:   Edit: Found another picture. eberbs fucked around with this message at 08:25 on Mar 22, 2012 |
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Mar 22, 2012 08:21
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Savington posted:um I'd say that's more cracked than warped, note the iregularity by his left bootheel.
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Mar 22, 2012 09:41
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That disc is scary. I mean, my beetle had warped rotors but yikes! Yes it did. Shut up. It did. I could spin the disc, wheel on or off and see it. It was also accompanied by the rhythmic "shh shh shh" of the pads rubbing on the high points. The brake place had to get new discs in for me because they couldn't be salvaged. Wish i'd taken a picture years back when my in-laws ride on mower threw a rod. Punched through the crankcase. Luckily the case stopped it because I don't imagine having a broken conrod in the rear end would be very pleasant.
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Mar 22, 2012 22:11
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General_Failure posted:Yes it did. Shut up. It did. I could spin the disc, wheel on or off and see it. It was also accompanied by the rhythmic "shh shh shh" of the pads rubbing on the high points. The brake place had to get new discs in for me because they couldn't be salvaged. Are you sure it wasn't just runout? I'll bet that picture is from the car getting dropped with the wheel off.
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Mar 23, 2012 00:39
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 Apparently, the 4643 race jeep needs either a better truss or a bigger axle than a dana 44 in the back. Those are ~2.75" OD, 1/4" wall steel axle tubes... it bent just past where the truss was welded on. (AKA super stanced XJ :bling bling street racer hellaflush bling bling:)
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Mar 23, 2012 20:39
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kastein posted:
The fact that it failed right where the truss stopped was predictable. I don't know if he was jumping, but solid axles don't handle that very well, and no amount of trussing will make them handle it as well as independent suspensions given equal weight or money.
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Mar 23, 2012 21:09
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Not so much jumping as desert racing... that is a King of the Hammers stock-class race jeep. Think traveling very fast across washboards, deep whoops, bumps, craters, sand dunes, small rocks, etc. They also need to do very well in rock crawling conditions to be competitive in KOH, thus the live axles. I have friends who have gotten over 20 feet of air (vertical, not horizontal) in a Cherokee with a 44 swapped into the front... no truss, no bent housing. My bet is that a truss that went further out (i.e. all the way to the leaf perches and bumpstop plates) would have kept it from bending at all.
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Mar 23, 2012 21:44
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kastein posted:I have friends who have gotten over 20 feet of air (vertical, not horizontal) in a Cherokee with a 44 swapped into the front... no truss, no bent housing.
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Mar 23, 2012 22:00
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Revolvyerom posted:To hell with the housing, how was your friend after falling two stories in a Jeep? Even landing upright, your spine is at real risk. Fine, apparently. Here's the pic:  (that's just after launch... went higher but the camera wasn't timed right) And here's the landing - check out the sidewall flex:  Damage: * he completely collapsed the bracket that goes between the frame and the engine mount * possibly buckled a dana 44 steering knuckle, this would be the second time. The first was during an offroad race last fall and happened when he rammed the passenger front tire into a multi-ton rock about 3 feet tall at over 20mph. Still finished the course and drove it home (with the spare tire on, as it did puncture the sidewall and was nearly flat by the end of the course.) Here's the engine mount bracket, not sure it's really a horrible mechanical failure, more of an annoying mechanical failure.  He does stuff like this on a regular basis and rarely breaks anything important. Last fall he did explode a 2.0" FOA shock reservoir doing this but it was one of their older units that was known to have a badly machined/designed snap-ring groove in a rather important spot.
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Mar 23, 2012 22:34
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double posting! I noticed a crack starting in the bellhousing on my MJ, right near the starter motor (at the 4-5 oclock position or so, passenger side.) I figured hell, I'll throw the new transmission in it in a few days... then I hauled a half dozen loads of firewood (about 3 tons) and spent all day today using it to haul old shingles and ash out of my back yard (about another 2.5-3 tons.) Tonight I was feeling like some wrenching so I started pulling it...  (scale: that bolt head is an E12 external torx, approx. 3/8" or 10mm across the star portion) oh. Well, I'm glad I started pulling it now. The crack goes at least halfway around the bellhousing from what I can see, and of the four bolts that hold it to the engine block... ONE is still structurally relevant. The others, and a good third of the housing, are just along for the ride. I suspect this started when I hydrolocked it on the 3rd and has been growing ever since. It probably started at the starter motor when I cranked it over to push the water out the spark plug holes... the clutch felt kinda funny and stiff for a couple minutes the next morning but I figured something was just rusty or gummed up from the bath it took. Apparently, not so.
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Mar 24, 2012 02:46
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kastein posted:
I couldn't figure out where the crack was, then I realized it was the thing I thought was a cable. indeed
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Mar 24, 2012 13:37
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Cross post from my stupid project ramble fest thread: gently caress Drivers side 1:  Drivers side 2 + 3:  There you have it. Three pistons are hosed on the drivers side of the motor. Either headgasket failure with coolant in the combustion chamber, or poo poo tune leaning out and destroying pistons? I'm not sure what to think really. Cylinder walls are also smooth as well... Motor is coming out ASAP. Hoping to have it rebuilt for memorial day weekend. (Ford mustang 302 turned 341)
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Mar 24, 2012 23:35
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If that motor isnt naturally aspirated check out the lifter valley and other crack prone spots as well. It doesnt take much power for detonation to cause a block to split.
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Mar 24, 2012 23:41
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Lord Gaga posted:If that motor isnt naturally aspirated check out the lifter valley and other crack prone spots as well. It doesnt take much power for detonation to cause a block to split. 8psi procharger supercharger. Will inspect it thoroughly next time I'm working on it.
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Mar 24, 2012 23:54
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Slow is Fast posted:8psi procharger supercharger. Will inspect it thoroughly next time I'm working on it. In that case you should take it to a machinist and get it cleaned and magnafluxed or dyed. No sense in building a motor and a hairline crack turns into a catastrophic failure. Search TheTurboForums, Corral, Etc. for lots of people splitting blocks 5.0 around 400-500WHP. This should only cost $50-100.
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Mar 25, 2012 00:00
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That looks more like coolant in the chamber to me - either impact damage or thermal shock. I'd expect lean running damage to be more of a melted piston and probably burned/melted valves as well. I don't know poo poo about engines though really. The old transmission is out, the new one is halfway in. The bellhousing came out in two pieces. Apparently all that was holding it on was the one remaining small bolt holding the inspection cover (think aluminum license plate material...) to the bellhousing, the locating dowel on one side, the starter (one bolt on each side of the crack, and one of those bolts was broken about 2 threads into the bellhousing from being overloaded), and one engine block bolt. I haven't the slightest clue how it didn't fall apart on me. I'll have to take some pics of what's left of the bellhousing tomorrow when it's light out again.
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Mar 25, 2012 00:02
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kastein posted:I haven't the slightest clue how it didn't fall apart on me. I'll have to take some pics of what's left of the bellhousing tomorrow when it's light out again. Input shaft, transmission mount, driveshaft and one dowel pin is all you technically need to keep a trans in place. If you put it in and it cant go up or down, back or forth or spin about its own axis, it can't move. Check your throw out bearing, I'd imagine the trans may have been sagging and the input shaft could have been weighing very heavy on it. TOBs for my car are so cheap if the trans is out and the bearing isnt brand new, it is worth replacing.
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Mar 25, 2012 00:05
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I am throwing a whole new transmission assembly in (picked it up for $200 from a friend, pre-pulled), and it includes a throwout bearing in drat good condition, otherwise I would. The throwout bearing had been making some horrible noises for a while anyways, and after pulling it out, I can tell that the bearings are roughly octagonal in shape and there doesn't seem to be a single bit of grease left on them. No wonder they sounded horrible. My plan WAS to put the new trans in with a new pilot bearing, new flywheel, new clutch, new pressure plate, and new throwout bearing... but I don't have the pressure plate or pilot bearing on hand yet, and it needs to be ready and driving in less than 10 hours including time for me to sleep, so I'm stuffing it in with the decent throwout bearing it came with, after checking to make sure the PP, clutch, flywheel, and pilot bearing were at least passable. As long as it lasts another few months it won't matter because it will be coming out to make way for the 318/NV3500. As for what is needed to keep a trans in place - you need at least a few bolts to keep the engine and transmission on the same axis, and also to allow the clutch to be actuated. With only one bolt on one side the clutch mostly warps the bellhousing instead of actually pushing on the pressure plate fingers. This may be different with a framed vehicle and solid mounted or polymer mounted engine/transmission, but I've got a rusty unibody and OEM rubber engine/trans mounts, so I need all the drivetrain rigidity I can to keep the bearings alive. edit: 
kastein fucked around with this message at 02:39 on Mar 25, 2012 |
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Mar 25, 2012 02:37
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nevermind
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Mar 25, 2012 06:07
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L69uFvfpXEw
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Mar 26, 2012 05:40
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Chinatown posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L69uFvfpXEw Holy crap that is one lucky guy.
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Mar 26, 2012 05:52
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