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Combaticus posted:Is there any reason to get the GW texture paints instead of the vallejo texture stuff that comes in larger pots? And why not skip both and just get a tub of textured filler from a DIY store or paint supply? Maybe you just hate having money?
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Apr 10, 2012 19:28
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What exactly do people use from hardware stores for basing/texture?
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Apr 10, 2012 19:31
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Recursive Expanse posted:What exactly do people use from hardware stores for basing/texture? Sand & Wood Glue. It's a pain in the arse when you don't have a car and can't get a massive bag of sand from the local B&Q for less than the small GW pot. Also, my local GW is holding a painting competition that ends on Thursday. This is my entry so far: 
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Apr 10, 2012 19:34
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Recursive Expanse posted:What exactly do people use from hardware stores for basing/texture? I use modeling pastes from an art store. It's usually $10-$14 for a 125ml pot, which gives you plenty to work with. There is probably some sort of coarse spackling product available at hardware stores.
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Apr 10, 2012 19:39
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lilljonas posted:Maybe you just hate having money? Recursive Expanse posted:What exactly do people use from hardware stores for basing/texture?
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Apr 10, 2012 19:53
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Combaticus posted:Is there any reason to get the GW texture paints instead of the vallejo texture stuff that comes in larger pots? And why not skip both and just get a tub of textured filler from a DIY store or paint supply? The eventual rule from GW tournaments that say you can't play unless your models are painted with at least 60% Games Workshop paints.
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Apr 10, 2012 20:07
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That would prevent you from playing in GW tournaments, which is undoubtably a good thing. Wait, didn't GW can their tournaments? I thought it was all independents now.
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Apr 10, 2012 20:25
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I have no clue. I was looking at playing at the nearby hobbytown, but they have a big sign that says that every model on the table has to be 75% GW, to which I shrugged and walked away from. Sorry that I can find better daemonsmith models for around 20% of the price as forgeworld, I guess I'll have to play barbies somewhere else  .
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Apr 10, 2012 20:46
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I've had a lot of good experiences with basing using wall spackle (the pink stuff that turns white when it dries) along with Elmer's glue and sand.
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Apr 10, 2012 21:03
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So, I have never been a fan of pinning. I usually just glue thoroughly and make sure there's good contact points and it's never let me down, along with some green stuff support for gaps or problem joints. But I just started Malifaux, and 90% of these minis are tiny ankles and single contact points and flying poses and stuff like that and it's metal on resin bases so I guess I should pin it. I'm used to big clownshoe space marines. I have two issues. Maybe I'm an idiot or doing it wrong but I have some brass rod and cannot for the life of me cut it. I've tried my GW snips, heavy duty kitchen shears, etc, and nothing will get through this stuff. Apart from that, I imagine the stuff I have is too thick to really use on tiny ankle joints anyway. Anyone have either A) some tricks to use when pinning malifaux minis in particular, or B) some experience and assurance that I don't need to pin and can just glue it down well (and do all the glueing between bare metal and bare resin, before priming). And what size pinning rod would you suggest for 32mm delicate minis?
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Apr 10, 2012 21:25
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Dominion posted:Anyone have either A) some tricks to use when pinning malifaux minis in particular, or B) some experience and assurance that I don't need to pin and can just glue it down well (and do all the glueing between bare metal and bare resin, before priming). And what size pinning rod would you suggest for 32mm delicate minis?
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Apr 10, 2012 21:35
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InternetJunky posted:Unless it's a huge piece joining into another huge piece (something like dragon wings into the body) I never pin my minis. I have minis I assembled more than 20 years ago that were glued together using 2-part epoxy glue and they are still rock solid. Something that helps if just gluing is to score the surfaces with a knife first. That's how I've always done it too. But I'm not talking about huge heavy joins here, I'm talking about the opposite. Like a mini whose only contact point to the base is a single 2mm wide foot. Is that just not worth the trouble to pin and I should just glue it as best I can and maybe reinforce with green stuff around the foot?
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Apr 10, 2012 21:38
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Dominion posted:Like a mini whose only contact point to the base is a single 2mm wide foot.
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Apr 10, 2012 21:53
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Some of the Malifaux models have odd contact points for their pieces that you kind of just have to roll with. Their Victoria model has its large swords and hands attach at the wrist, which is pretty much too small to try and pin. I've broken off a sword at least 3 times now, and I'm betting it didn't take travel well. That said, if you can find a way to pin, I'd go for it.
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Apr 10, 2012 22:40
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thiswayliesmadness posted:Some of the Malifaux models have odd contact points for their pieces that you kind of just have to roll with. Their Victoria model has its large swords and hands attach at the wrist, which is pretty much too small to try and pin. I've broken off a sword at least 3 times now, and I'm betting it didn't take travel well. That said, if you can find a way to pin, I'd go for it. I have a similar issue with my Collette crew. They are all dainty with tiny little sockets to attach to, so arms and what not keep falling off.
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Apr 10, 2012 22:50
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Yeah it's Colette, Rasputina, and Kaeris's crews that I'm dealing with.
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Apr 10, 2012 22:56
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:This is a Model Air Color called "Gray Primer." I assure you it is not a primer. I think it's called "gray primer" because of the practice during WWII of simply throwing primer onto a tank/plane (in order to prevent surface corrosion) and getting it out of the factory and into service ASAP. I believe the Russians did this mostly, but if I remember correctly, the Germans did that too towards the end of their part in the war.
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Apr 10, 2012 23:10
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thiswayliesmadness posted:Some of the Malifaux models have odd contact points for their pieces that you kind of just have to roll with. Their Victoria model has its large swords and hands attach at the wrist, which is pretty much too small to try and pin. I've broken off a sword at least 3 times now, and I'm betting it didn't take travel well. That said, if you can find a way to pin, I'd go for it.
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Apr 10, 2012 23:26
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Flipswitch posted:Should see the back spines Infinity uses on the Bagh-Mari & Knight of Santiago, they're crazy, there just is no way to keep them on the model.
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Apr 10, 2012 23:40
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The thing that always confuses me about Malifaux figures is that their often broken up into fiddly little pieces for no discernible goddamn reason. You can get a single figure that rests on an easily defined flat plane, and it will still be broken up. My hope is that they have severe casting restrictions, otherwise someone needs an eye-poking.
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Apr 10, 2012 23:50
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counterspin posted:The thing that always confuses me about Malifaux figures is that their often broken up into fiddly little pieces for no discernible goddamn reason. You can get a single figure that rests on an easily defined flat plane, and it will still be broken up. My hope is that they have severe casting restrictions, otherwise someone needs an eye-poking. Well they are, or at least were, a very small operation. But yeah some stuff is broken up for no reason, while other great sculpts like Colette or Myranda are one solid piece.
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Apr 10, 2012 23:55
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What can I do to cut down on the gloss from shades? I thought the wash's never did this, but I have been noticing it more and more and its driving me crazy. Would using less help, or is dull coat the only thing that helps?
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Apr 11, 2012 00:37
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So, modelling a Kislev army. I don't want to buy the official models because they're pretty old sculpts and are all-metal and go for a mint on ebay. Kossars are based on Cossacks, obviously - the Ural Cossacks from what I've gathered, but there's not a lot of support for them historically. There's these guys, who are good but they're all metal monoposes and there's not many of them and they're expensive, and there's these which have the same problem. e: Oh hey, some of the Khador troops are kind of neat. Same problems though. They're characterised by large muscles, significant facial hair and funny hats (as well as bows and axes but there's not much to fit that in the army book). Chaos Marauders would probably have too large muscles and not enough facial hair and hats which are funny in the wrong way. Flagellants have all except the right kind of hat (and facial hair), but there's not many of the right bits in their box and they're expensive. I thought of these guys as well because of the coats and loose-fitting clothes but they've got the wrong sort of both. The fur I'll have to sculpt on in any case I think. I hear that's easy. Winged Lancers are easy. Considering they'll be counting as Knightly Orders I'll just use those models and deal with the fact they're significantly more armoured than usual. The helms of the historical winged hussars are pretty similar to those used by Roman legionaries and I can't imagine having trouble finding those. Wings I'll either scratchbuild or make a mould of an existing wing and trim to size and then cast. Or I could use these but they don't look very good (and they're expensive). Anyone got any advice, then? I might not be starting this project for a while but I really would like to. FROOOOOOOOG fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Apr 11, 2012 |
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Apr 11, 2012 01:16
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Khorne Flakes posted:What can I do to cut down on the gloss from shades? I thought the wash's never did this, but I have been noticing it more and more and its driving me crazy. Would using less help, or is dull coat the only thing that helps?
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Apr 11, 2012 02:09
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Matte. The E is silent.
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Apr 11, 2012 02:15
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Anyone have access to a printable color blending chart similar to the Magic Palette Color Mixing Guide?
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Apr 11, 2012 02:17
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Recursive Expanse posted:What exactly do people use from hardware stores for basing/texture? Painter's spackle textured with crumpled-then-flattened aluminium foil. I've based an entire army with a small tub and I have probably 2/3 of it left.
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Apr 11, 2012 02:43
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Recursive Expanse posted:What exactly do people use from hardware stores for basing/texture? $5 a gallon Joint Compound (aka drywall mud) mixed with builder's sand for texture, tacky glue for tensile strength and brown acrylic craft paint for color.
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Apr 11, 2012 03:06
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Do you have a picture of some of your bases? I'd like to see how that looks.
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Apr 11, 2012 03:16
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Silhouette posted:$5 a gallon Joint Compound (aka drywall mud) mixed with builder's sand for texture, tacky glue for tensile strength and brown acrylic craft paint for color. I'll second the drywall mud. It's great when you want something different then sand/glue combo.
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Apr 11, 2012 03:29
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Total gently caress up nightmare. Bath robe sculpting was for some reason very hard and came out terrible. Couldn't get the bottom left of it right so I took it off before curing:  Added it in the next session as well as a small structure for the hair.   Ugh:  I'll have a good scrutiny of it and then remove and re sculpt what's terrible; the back of it for sure. Edit: UPDATE Sort of all better now. I think I might have been mixing the A and B compounds with a too high ratio of blue.  
Hellbeard fucked around with this message at 07:18 on Apr 11, 2012 |
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Apr 11, 2012 06:25
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FROOOOOOOOG posted:So, modelling a Kislev army. I don't want to buy the official models because they're pretty old sculpts and are all-metal and go for a mint on ebay. You should take a visit to the historicals thread. Anyway, Foundry is very expensive, so if you want to field units without selling your kidneys, I'd check The Assault Group. http://www.theassaultgroup.co.uk/store/home.php?cat=1 Their Renaissance range covers both Cossacks, Tatars, Hungarians, Russians and Poles, so you should be able to find most things you need. Also they are quite bulky compared to many other historical lines, so they don't look too different from GWs bulky miniatures. While they are a little bit more expensive than Perry Miniatures, I think they are cheaper than GW plastics or similarly priced. If you want cheaper plastic cavalry to use for a basis for conversion, check out these: http://www.perry-miniatures.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_62&products_id=2713 12 for £18 compared to 8 for £20 from GW. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 06:53 on Apr 11, 2012 |
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Apr 11, 2012 06:44
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Hellbeard posted:The Dude When you get this guy finished, I was wondering if you'd be willing to sell resin casts of it. If so, this guy right here wants to be your first customer. Inquisitor Lebowski would be quite awesome.
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Apr 11, 2012 07:33
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lilljonas posted:You should take a visit to the historicals thread. Anyway, Foundry is very expensive, so if you want to field units without selling your kidneys, I'd check The Assault Group. http://www.theassaultgroup.co.uk/store/home.php?cat=1 Well these guys are basically fantastic. Free international shipping makes them a little more than half GW retail price per figure (  ). Metal and same-y but that's fine since at that price I can afford to chop them around a bit and swap/sculpt out weapons as required and get used to working with metal.Also: with Monstrous Cavalry being the new hotness, I'm looking for bears to replace the Demigrpyhs. I know Reaper has a few and so do Scibor but I'm looking for some variety.
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Apr 11, 2012 08:06
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Khorne Flakes posted:
The idea of the glazes is a final layer to blend everything together. Even really harsh lines between layers can be softened and look less jarring with a bit of glaze. InternetJunky posted:...but you're not supposed to water them down. From the GW site: "They are designed to be used straight over Citadel Base paints (and each other) without any mixing". I'm guessing stupid noobs. So many kids that come into my shop don't have a clue how to paint, won't ask for advice and won't listen to any (helpful) suggestions. They just jab the brush in the pot, slap it on the model (without any primer). The amount of detail lost and huge brush strokes visible  At least this way their models have a half decent chance of not looking quite so awful.Gravitas Shortfall posted:Just realised that the new Citadel paint range has no real equivalent to Elf Flesh (the "official" equivalent is yellow based not red based), and that's what I was using as a highlight color, anyone got any non-GW suggestions for that particular shade? Have you tried Kislev Flesh? If it's the one I'm thinking of, it looks pretty darn close to Elf Flesh, but I'll check when I get to work today. Dominion posted:
I've never made Malifaux, but I find regular paperclips are usually the perfect size for pinning most things, and are easily cut with clippers.
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Apr 11, 2012 08:28
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Sole.Sushi posted:When you get this guy finished, I was wondering if you'd be willing to sell resin casts of it. If so, this guy right here wants to be your first customer. That sounds cool as all hell. I'd love to do it BUT: I think you might want to wait until it's finished because it might suck. Also I've never cast anything in resin. I have cast a metal miniature but I did have access to a metal casting shop which I don't now. I don't have the silicon for making a mold or the resin itself. I might be able to get some materials from a friend who needs the space. I don't know if they're suitable or not. I'll keep your offer in mind and if I have the opportunity I'll try to cast it. I can't promise anything as to how good the model will end up or if I can even cast properly.
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Apr 11, 2012 08:33
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Namenlos posted:Have you tried Kislev Flesh? If it's the one I'm thinking of, it looks pretty darn close to Elf Flesh, but I'll check when I get to work today. Kislev flesh is darker. It's annoying, because Elf Flesh was a lovely flesh color but was great for highlighting the desaturated orange tone I use for my Infinity dudes.
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Apr 11, 2012 09:53
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The nickel coating (or whatever it is, the shiny stuff) on my magnets seems to be cracking and falling off. Will this have any effect on their holding strength?
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Apr 11, 2012 18:26
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I've been waiting for this part. The hair isn't quite "there" yet but it really helps the look of the thing.  
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Apr 11, 2012 19:18
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Wow, that's really starting to look like him. Nice work!
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Apr 11, 2012 19:24
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