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here are some closer shots of the motor with the fan now zip tied, got the electronics pretty much done, just got to bind it with the radio. Two more diffs left to fill and the TLR kit to install and its ready to go. 
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Apr 18, 2012 21:36
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Nice! Here's mine:   
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Apr 19, 2012 00:07
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My new ESC came for my Sprint 2 Flux, the engine is fine so I managed to run it some today. Bought a bunch of spur and pinion gears to try out different gearing. I got a 96 tooth spur gear and a 15 tooth pinion gear on there for now, gonna try different combinations later. Also gonna get around to buying a 4s lithium battery pack since the ESC is rated for it.
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Apr 19, 2012 10:49
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I'd love to see what 4S in a Sprint 2 is like - mine just burns out the tires constantly on 3S!
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Apr 19, 2012 11:47
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TremorX posted:Nice! Here's mine: Man that's an awesome, wish i could afford an RX8. Are you running the stock chassis? I like those chassis braces as well, must get me some of those. finished everything today, tried it with the test pack, hole poo poo i'm gonna have some fun at the track tomorrow.   
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Apr 20, 2012 19:21
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The Comanche got new shoes. I put some RC4WD stamped steel OEM's on her, and also turned my old Dingo bumper into a bull bar. These wheels were a bitch to put on, but they turned out great. They will look even better after I run them through water and they start to rust. The steel wheels added quite a bit of weight over the stock plastic ones, and now it hugs the rocks even tighter! 
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Apr 20, 2012 22:52
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HoWSeR posted:Man that's an awesome, wish i could afford an RX8. Are you running the stock chassis? I like those chassis braces as well, must get me some of those. Yeah, I'm hanging on to it until it breaks or is just too worn out to keep using. I'll probably replace it with the King Headz one - it rotates the center diff slightly so that the driveshafts are straighter. The braces are not bad. They're both STRC, and the front one is definitely better than stock. The rear one is OK, but if you're going to replace them, then go with either the longer Losi torque brace, or do what a lot of people are doing and get the AE RC8's rear brace. It's longer so it flexes less and makes the chassis less prone to bending driveshafts. I'm not crazy about the RX8 so far. I mean, now that I have one that works it performs well enough, but the BNC failing on the first one I had totally screwed me at PNB. I have an external Castle BNC on it now, but if the RX8 even hints at giving me any more trouble, I'm getting rid of it and replacing it with a Castle Mamba Monster.
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Apr 21, 2012 00:56
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:The Comanche got new shoes. I put some RC4WD stamped steel OEM's on her, and also turned my old Dingo bumper into a bull bar. These wheels were a bitch to put on, but they turned out great. They will look even better after I run them through water and they start to rust. I'm told you should change out the screws in the wheels, literally tossing the stock ones in the trash without using them, because they're supposedly weak and won't stand up to torquing the nuts on there. I haven't used them myself, but just watch out for that.
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Apr 21, 2012 20:04
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krushgroove posted:I'm told you should change out the screws in the wheels, literally tossing the stock ones in the trash without using them, because they're supposedly weak and won't stand up to torquing the nuts on there. I haven't used them myself, but just watch out for that. Ha, yeah they are pretty lovely. I changed out the stock ones in a couple places because they stripped out. Luckily I had some replacements in my box. Ok, one more torrent of pictures and then I'll take a break for awhile. Sorry I keep posting walls of pics.....but I had it out on a spillway today that is INSANE with rocks. The rocks are the result of construction demolition, and several local clubs routinely have crawling competitions on this site. The new steel wheels are badass, and this truck went over drat near anything with the extra weight. I beat the living poo poo out of this truck today (some nasty 5 ft+ falls & flips off of rocks) and didn't break anything.      
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Apr 22, 2012 00:19
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You really need a driver in there, it's so realistic that it looks like it's parked in all those shots. Some guy in a trucker cap and a Metallica t-shirt, most likely.
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Apr 22, 2012 00:48
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Soooo I recently accidentally reversed the wiring from my battery to ESC (stupid non-keyed bullet plug lipo packs). the battery and ESC are fine however I did manage to set my capacitor board on fire and consequently destroy it. Is a capacitor necessary on the ESC? I cant actually drive the car on the ground with load on it as its not finished but the ESC is functioning and quite smoothly at that. im told it smooths out voltage but not noticing any difference to be honest.
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Apr 22, 2012 02:06
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My daughter rules. Afterward she nailed the most perfect full-throttle jump of the evening  Also, do I need to use a special glue for the bead-lock, or will regular crazy glue work fine?
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Apr 22, 2012 03:57
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Laserface posted:Soooo I recently accidentally reversed the wiring from my battery to ESC (stupid non-keyed bullet plug lipo packs). the battery and ESC are fine however I did manage to set my capacitor board on fire and consequently destroy it. It isn't completely necessary, but I would put one on there just in case. It really does help keep the esc cool and also give you a bit more punch. If you don't wanna buy an overpriced premade one just get a couple capacitors of the same rating and solder them to the esc battery leads. Make sure the caps you get are labeled as "Low ESR".
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Apr 22, 2012 04:26
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Sloppy posted:My daughter rules. Regular crazy glue will be fine. Just get a decent brand vs. the really cheap stuff.
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Apr 22, 2012 05:49
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I'm in the midst of building my SCX10 and it's really fun but there are some annoying inconsistencies. It seems that it didn't come with enough of the little things that go on the ends of the control arms, and has a couple extra weird ones that don't appear anywhere else in the kit instructions. So now I need to order another parts tree to get enough parts to finish the kit. There are also a few steps that need updating as the kit has apparently changed. It's pretty cool otherwise though.
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Apr 23, 2012 02:56
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I would call their customer service guys before ordering anything extra. It's possible that they may have done a running change and you didn't get the updated instructions sheet or something along those lines.
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Apr 23, 2012 08:51
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the weekend I took the losi out on the track for the first time, I just came from a modded 2wd slash to this and it is AMAZING! Handles so well, takes the jumps with ease. I'm gonna take that castle fan off, its not really doing much for cooling down the motor, maybe a actual heat sink and fan would do a better job. We are now rotating the track time on the weekends for off road and on road now so its time to clean up and get the cup racer and m05 ready to go for this weekend.
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Apr 23, 2012 10:34
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powderific posted:I'm in the midst of building my SCX10 and it's really fun but there are some annoying inconsistencies. It seems that it didn't come with enough of the little things that go on the ends of the control arms, and has a couple extra weird ones that don't appear anywhere else in the kit instructions. So now I need to order another parts tree to get enough parts to finish the kit. There are also a few steps that need updating as the kit has apparently changed. Are you talking about the short ball ends? The instructions start off telling you to get them from the shock parts tree, but there are more on some other tree. I forget which one, but they are in there.
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Apr 23, 2012 10:44
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Definitely email axials service is if you dont haveva part. I emailed them 3 weeks ago asking where i could buy the decal sheets for a dingo (wanted to repaint mine), and they just mailed me them at no charge.
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Apr 23, 2012 12:27
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Stregone posted:Are you talking about the short ball ends? The instructions start off telling you to get them from the shock parts tree, but there are more on some other tree. I forget which one, but they are in there. Yeah, I have both parts trees and after watching videos of other people putting it together, I definitely have the wrong second tree. The old SCX10 kit that came with beadlocks used the bent ends for upper aluminum links, which the dingo kit doesn't come with. In other people's build videos the two bent links I have are straight instead. So a wrong parts tree must have slipped in. I sent them an email so hopefully they'll just send me another tree. edit: all's well, they're going to send me another tree for free. I spent a little more time looking at the manuals and it looks like I did get parts tree from the old version. powderific fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Apr 23, 2012 |
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Apr 23, 2012 16:18
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I'm pretty new to R/C and completely new to LiPo. Trying to figure out what best to buy for my HPI sprint 2 flux to replace the NiMh battery pack that came with it. After reading back through the thread as well as poking around R/C sites I think I mostly get the basics but one thing I'm still not sure about : Back on page 55 a charger and 2S 20C 5000mAh were linked from HobbyKing. If I've understood the numbers properly that means 5000/1000 x 20 = 100A discharge, right? If my ESC (Flux Motiv Brushless) is rated at 70A continuous and 380A burst, how does that jive with the 100A discharge from that pack? Does the ESC sort out the discharge or do I need to find a pack whose discharge rate is closer to the rating of the ESC? The battery and charger in question: Battery: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14976__Turnigy_5000mAh_2S1P_20C_hardcase_pack_USA_Warehouse_.html Charger: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18066__Turnigy_Accucel_6_50W_6A_Balancer_Charger_w_accessories_USA_Warehouse_.html I like this charger also because it seems to be able to do LiPo and NiMh both, so I could keep my original NiMh pack around as a standby, though I plan to have 2 or 3 LiPo packs around, most likely. Apologies if this has already been covered; there's a lot of various LiPo-related discussion in this thread but I wasn't able to find exactly this answer. Edit: Looks like I was reading the wrong specs page! Apparently my sprint 2 flux brushless RTR has a Flux Vapor ESC, not Flux Motiv. With that said, I'm having trouble finding the numbers for the Vapor, it just seems to say "40% more power than the Motiv". I guess that puts it close to the 100A mark if that refers to the discharge rate. jaeger fucked around with this message at 15:12 on Apr 24, 2012 |
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Apr 24, 2012 15:03
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Keep in mind that that charger doesn't come with a power supply so you'll need one. I wound up getting this guy cause I wanted an integrated unit: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...ger-w-LCD-4S-8A
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Apr 24, 2012 15:28
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powderific posted:Keep in mind that that charger doesn't come with a power supply so you'll need one. I wound up getting this guy cause I wanted an integrated unit: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...ger-w-LCD-4S-8A That looks pretty nice, though I'm leaning towards the Accucell 6 because it's pretty cheap and also because I have a 12v power supply sitting around already, something very similar to this: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6256 Should that work fine given the input voltage rating on the Accucell 6 page says 11v-17v or am I missing anything? jaeger fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Apr 24, 2012 |
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Apr 24, 2012 15:47
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jaeger posted:I'm pretty new to R/C and completely new to LiPo. Trying to figure out what best to buy for my HPI sprint 2 flux to replace the NiMh battery pack that came with it. After reading back through the thread as well as poking around R/C sites I think I mostly get the basics but one thing I'm still not sure about : Keep in mind that 20c rating is for continuous draw, not burst. That pack is rated for 30c burst. Even though, you're up close to what the ESC can draw... you might want to step up to the 40+c continuous packs to be safe. The 20c would be ok, but if you're hammering on it hard and constantly up against its discharge rating you could potentially damage it. Might take a look at this one instead: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__24198__Turnigy_nano_tech_5600mah_2S2P_50_100C_Hardcase_Lipo_Pack_USA_Warehouse_.html Lipo packs shouldn't ever run much hotter than ambient temps. If they're getting hot (or starting to puff) you are asking too much of them, or the pack is going bad. You can always convert a computer power supply if you have one laying around
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Apr 24, 2012 18:35
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jaeger posted:I'm pretty new to R/C and completely new to LiPo. Trying to figure out what best to buy for my HPI sprint 2 flux to replace the NiMh battery pack that came with it. After reading back through the thread as well as poking around R/C sites I think I mostly get the basics but one thing I'm still not sure about : the Flux Vapor ESC is just a re-branded Sidewinder SCT or Sidewinder v2 made by Castle Creation. I am guessing its the Sidewinder v2, look up the info for those two and see which one it is. ElBrak fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Apr 24, 2012 |
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Apr 24, 2012 18:47
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Thank you both for the useful info, I appreciate it. Looking at http://www.castlecreations.com/products/sidewinder_sv2.html I don't see the numbers I'm looking for there but I think the takeaway I was looking for from my question is this: The controlling factor is the draw of which the ESC is capable. So if the ESC is rated for 70A (continuous) it can only draw 70A (continuous) from a 100A or higher discharge pack. Is that correct? (I'm ignoring burst for this simple example.) So a higher discharge pack isn't going to do any damage as it's the ESC controlling the equation, not the pack, right? If that's the case then 25C, 30C, 50C, etc. look more appealing than the first-linked 20C. The 20C 5000mAh one would be close to underpowering the ESC, possibly.
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Apr 24, 2012 19:17
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jaeger posted:That looks pretty nice, though I'm leaning towards the Accucell 6 because it's pretty cheap and also because I have a 12v power supply sitting around already, something very similar to this: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6256 I'd look at more than a 6A charger and 5A power supply. Being able to charge 5000 packs at 2C is really nice (assuming the batteries can charge at 2C of course). A charger like this: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...w%5Facc%5F.html Plus a 10A supply will let you charge your 5000's much quicker
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Apr 25, 2012 02:07
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Anybody here planning on going to RC X in long beach this weekend? I'll be there with the 1/5 crowd, we can ask each other about stairs in our house, etc.
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Apr 25, 2012 02:12
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Okay I got a question. I got my son, 9, a Traxxas Rustler. It's been fun. Yesterday the motor stopped working. It's a Titan 12t 550. Ok I pop on google to get a new one, and evidently they burn out pretty easy. I found this one http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-DTXP5737.html can I just slap that in there? is there like a "good" 550 motor that I should get (without going brushless since he's 9)
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Apr 25, 2012 02:42
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Olde Weird Tip posted:I'd look at more than a 6A charger and 5A power supply. Being able to charge 5000 packs at 2C is really nice (assuming the batteries can charge at 2C of course). Thanks, that one looks pretty slick as well. I'll keep it in mind. I haven't bought anything yet, trying to get my head around all the numbers before purchasing. Unrelated to the LiPo stuff I'd like to sell my HPI Nitro RS4 and build an electric kit 1:10 to replace it. It would be the first kit I've built. I'm not looking to race in any competitions (there's zero onroad scene around here) so something cheap would be nice. This is for the project value more than anything since I've never done one. I've looked at a few kits like the Tamiya TT01E, Schumacher Mi1, Team Associated TC4, they all seem like fairly cheap entry level kits. I realize they would need extras that would have come with an RTR box but that's fine, I'm just interested in the build right now. With that said, anything I should avoid in particular or is there another I should look at in the low price entry range? (~$130 USD for the TT01E, for example)
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Apr 25, 2012 03:36
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TT-01's are a pleasure to build and if value for money yet cheap kit is what you're after, it has my vote. Many people will say "Don't buy a TT-01, it's nothing but slop" but if all you're doing is driving yourself, it's cheap and fun. Only upgrade I'd really reccomend pre-build is a metal prop shaft as it can tighten up the chassis a whole bunch, but the TT01 I'm running now is full stock and still a lot of fun. (Honda CR-Z TT-01E model, first produced last yar so new as can be.) If I was buying now, I'd likely look for a sale on a TT01D or get the F150 SVT Lightning.
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Apr 25, 2012 19:15
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I know I almost seem to post exclusively about the awesomeness of the TT-01 but seriously, it's a great, great chassis.
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Apr 25, 2012 19:33
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front wing flexing posted:I know I almost seem to post exclusively about the awesomeness of the TT-01 but seriously, it's a great, great chassis. You're not helping your ratio 
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Apr 25, 2012 20:23
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If it ain't got TRF in the title of the chassis, then it no good 
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Apr 26, 2012 06:32
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Here are some pics w/ the body mounted. Couldn't possibly be happier. I tried the patina thing once, turns out I have no artistic skill what so ever... Here is my SCX10 with my Wraith in tow. We actually use the trailer for breakdowns. we live about a 1/2 mile from "the woods", and occasionally ended up carrying back a broken rig (When bringing 4-5 trucks, something is bound to happen). We drive the trucks there and back (Usually beers involved, so no driving of actual cars). The trailer always go's there empty, but often comes back loaded...   
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Apr 26, 2012 09:49
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Sweet trailer. How do you like the Wraith? I'm strongly considering expanding to 2 trucks with either a Wraith or Ridgecrest to tackle bigger rocks. An XR10 sounds fun, but the competition crawlers seem like big money pits.....and they look sort of retarded since nothing is scale. They are basically just a chassis with two gigantic tires. I purchased a now discontinued Jeep Comanche Cab from proline, and am going to mate it with the honcho truggy rear end. My full size rusty Comanche body is great for trail riding, but when I get it on the rocks it's always getting hung up because of the rear truck bed "catching" rocks/sticks underneath it. A local crawling group is going to do some Class 2 competitions this summer, so I'll use the new Comanche truggy body for those. Now to just pick a color.....
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Apr 26, 2012 15:52
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:the competition crawlers seem like big money pits.....and they look sort of retarded since nothing is scale. They are basically just a chassis with two gigantic tires. So.....they're motorcycles??
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Apr 26, 2012 15:55
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Err, 4 tires.
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Apr 26, 2012 16:09
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Sweet trailer. How do you like the Wraith? I have one, it's good fun going over just about anything. You can make it into a rock racer, formula off-road, hill climber or an overland style machine. Swap out weighted tires for unweighted tires and you could race it on a track if you wanted. It really needs a scale driver figure, though.
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Apr 26, 2012 16:45
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I'm looking for an used rolling chassis preferably something like a 4x4 Stampede or Rustler, I will be using it at the beach this summer but I'll buy anything 1/10 or larger if it's adapted for my needs. Don't need any radios or electronics as I will be buying them new.
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Apr 27, 2012 18:13
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