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If you have the room to spare, I don't see any harm in keeping the raw files. What if the jpeg engine butchers a conversion for some reason?
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May 6, 2012 20:34
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For me, the thing I don't entirely trust with JPGs is the white balance in tough lighting conditions.
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May 6, 2012 20:56
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Edward IV posted:I'm just wondering since I haven't gotten around to getting or using filters yet but is using a step-up ring that big of a problem?
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May 6, 2012 23:18
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LiquidRain posted:I never even knew these things existed. Now to see if I can find a 46-49mm in Canada at a price that doesn't suck. Just get it off of eBay. It's like $3 or something.
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May 6, 2012 23:51
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Clayton Bigsby posted:You X100 owners out there, do you shoot jpeg or raw? Been a raw shooter with all my Canon gear, but I have to say that I am so pleased with the jpeg output of the X100 (especially in the extended dynamic range modes) that I think I will keep using it unless I really feel the need to do anything else... and the film modes are pretty nifty. "Velvia" really shines: I shoot raw, and while most of my images don't end up being massaged too much further than the jpegs would go, the ones I've printed I am super ultra glad I kept the raw on as I did some really solid tweaks that would have probably broken a jpeg.
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May 7, 2012 00:53
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Extra space is also pretty cheap these days (especially in photo-dollars).
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May 7, 2012 05:01
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My dad wanted to buy a modern camera, loved Olympus in the OM days, and I recommended the OM-D. I saw it for the first time today, and poo poo, it's not even remotely simple or straight-forward. I actually had a hell of a lot of trouble figuring out simple settings. I really think the interface is terrible. I've been shooting their m4/3 bodies since the E-P1 came out and this one is complete different and hardly intuitive. Like yeah, as a geek, I wouldn't have trouble if I owned this thing, but drat, it was a terrible thing to recommend to my nearly 70-year old dad. On the plus side, the body is practically as small as any other Olympus m4/3 camera.
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May 7, 2012 05:08
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teethgrinder posted:My dad wanted to buy a modern camera, loved Olympus in the OM days, and I recommended the OM-D. That's one of the reasons I tried to hard but ultimately gave up on the NEX. The UI is, in my opinion, so unintuitive that it took a few minutes of screwing around every time I needed to change anything. The x100 menus are weird too but there is so much you can do with hardware buttons that I hardly need to delve into them at all.
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May 7, 2012 06:22
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teethgrinder posted:My dad wanted to buy a modern camera, loved Olympus in the OM days, and I recommended the OM-D. What specifically are you talking about? I also went from the E-P1 to OM-D and so far as I can tell the menus are pretty much identical? I really have no idea what is new or complicated. Some of the more advanced settings which are somewhat hidden in the menus have slightly ambiguous names, but I just can't even think how the interface is different. In fact it has only gotten more user friendly since the E-P1 due to the touch screen.
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May 7, 2012 07:56
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The main problem is that the cursors are just cursors now rather than specific buttons for doing things like setting flash, ISO, etc. You have to navigate a menu for everything. I actually think it's more elegant, but it's way tougher for an older person. Also I don't know. I had no problem bringing up the supermenu at first, but had trouble getting it again later. Now that I think about it, maybe it doesn't come up when you switch from using the viewfinder to the display for shooting. I didn't have much time with it, but I just didn't find it as immediately intuitive.
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May 7, 2012 14:17
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Well, guess what, my X100 started massively overexposing at smaller apertures. Haven't even had the thing for two weeks. Back it goes.
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May 7, 2012 18:48
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Clayton Bigsby posted:Well, guess what, my X100 started massively overexposing at smaller apertures. Haven't even had the thing for two weeks. If you mean at f/2-2.8, it's because the leaf shutter can't go over 1/1000 or something -- you need to use the ND. If you mean at f/8+, it's probably either a real issue, or the exp compensation dial that keeps rolling because it rolls too easily. ( I see people refer to apertures as both large and small and mean opposite things, so just to ensure that I covered both bases, I decided to reply as both )
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May 7, 2012 19:02
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Shmoogy posted:If you mean at f/2-2.8, it's because the leaf shutter can't go over 1/1000 or something -- you need to use the ND. Yeah, I am aware of the ND filter and leaf shutter limitations yada yada. But, if I set it to all manual, say f/11, and keep half pressing the shutter it either doesn't stop down at all, stops down some, stops down all the way to f/11, etc etc, all in the same light, producing massively differing exposures at the same shutter speed and ISO. It is definitely broken. I also set the ISO to manual (indoors, 800), then shot at f/2 1/500, f/2.8 1/250, f/4 1/125, f/5.6 1/60, f/8 1/30 and the results were increasingly blown out.
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May 7, 2012 19:13
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Can you check the exif and make sure the ISO is actually @ 800 or what have you- I've heard of people who had the same problem, but it was caused by the ISO sticking to 3200 for some reason, despite being set otherwise. I'm mostly curious as to if that is the problem, I don't think there is a solution to it.
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May 7, 2012 19:17
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Sticky blades? http://rocketcameras.com/camera-repair/fuji-x100-camera-sticky-blade-problem-sticking-exposure/ I've read of that being a fairly common problem on the X100.
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May 7, 2012 19:20
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Yeah, sounds like sticky blades. I thought they fixed that in the newer cameras. Edit: And I always thought that happens after a lot of use. That would be bad to happen on a new camera.
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May 7, 2012 19:26
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Shmoogy posted:Can you check the exif and make sure the ISO is actually @ 800 or what have you- I've heard of people who had the same problem, but it was caused by the ISO sticking to 3200 for some reason, despite being set otherwise. Well, it is manually set to 800 and that is in the exif so that is pretty clear cut to me. Seems like some people have had bad luck like me and have their cameras act up after just a few hundred exposures. Interestingly, if I point the camera upwards it seems to do alright, but keeping it horizontal is when it starts acting up. I can set the aperture to f/11 as I said and keep half-pressing and see the blades either not move, move partway, or all the way, seemingly at random. This sucks.
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May 7, 2012 19:33
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Example: 1/250 at f/5.6 ISO 800  1/60 at f/11 ISO 800 
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May 7, 2012 19:41
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Random Task posted:Hehe, I got a new toy today. It's fast zoom time! Hows the AF on the 14-54 Mk2? I used to have the original version of that lens and it would barely function on my EP-1.
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May 8, 2012 00:39
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teethgrinder posted:The main problem is that the cursors are just cursors now rather than specific buttons for doing things like setting flash, ISO, etc. You have to navigate a menu for everything. I actually think it's more elegant, but it's way tougher for an older person. Fair enough. I kind of forgot that I had spent some time in the menus before I even took the first shot with the camera. You can make those cursors direct buttons but you are right in that it requires a little menu diving and set up time, which is not easy for someone coming to their first digital camera. If your dad is having trouble with it though and you could set aside 20 minutes to tweak the settings I think you'd find it's very customizable and you can get it back to functioning exactly as you'd expect.
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May 8, 2012 03:46
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I've been tasked with comparing prices on, and ordering, a new camera for my workplace - we want great video quality and ease of use, as well as flexibility in lens selection for when we want to do still photo stuffs. I've been looking at the NEX-5n and found this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sony-Alpha-...2#ht_4189wt_992 this seems like an unrealistically low price compared to Amazon, can anyone tell me if this is the real deal? Usually when I find things like this there's some model number trickery going on and it's not the actual item I was looking for. Also, if anyone can advise me on the best video / still quality for under 600 bux in this category I would greatly appreciate it.
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May 8, 2012 18:55
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No lens. That's why.
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May 8, 2012 19:01
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That's the normal price for a body-only NEX. It's only a deal because you get some accessories with it. It does not come with any kind of lens so you will have to buy one separately.
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May 8, 2012 19:04
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God drat, I noticed just as I came back to check. So stupid. Thanks, I appreciate it.
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May 8, 2012 19:27
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I have been thinking about getting a new camera recently and wanted something a little better than the point-and-shoot. I was thinking somewhere around $600 for a body and lens. I have been debating between the Sony NEX-5n and the Olympus PEN E-PL2. Any feedback would be helpful. Also, what is the release schedule for cameras? I probably won't be really needing the camera until early August, but it might be nice for a trip to China in a few weeks.
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May 8, 2012 19:28
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accipter posted:I have been thinking about getting a new camera recently and wanted something a little better than the point-and-shoot. I was thinking somewhere around $600 for a body and lens. I have been debating between the Sony NEX-5n and the Olympus PEN E-PL2. There's a rumor of the NEXF5 coming later this summer, which could be true, since the NEX5N came about a month after the NEXC3 was announced, and the NEXF3 is due May 17th. If that happens, I would expect that the 5N will drop some in price, but it depends on how many are readily available, since the 5N was hit by the same manufacturing constraints as most of this current crop of camera. Other than that, expect most of the big announcements to come near the end of August as the industry builds momentum and hype for the Photokina trade show in late September. There are lots of Olympus and Panasonic deals running right now, especially if you don't mind last year's models. M43 has killer values and tons of overstock by the bushel, where the NEX side is still struggling to fill orders at regular prices.
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May 8, 2012 19:54
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If you're not going to shoot in low light much, get the m43.
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May 8, 2012 20:02
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I'm thinking of throwing in with m4/3 crew on the new om-d and before I put in my pre order I was wondering what people think is the best deal for the pre order bonus you get when you pre order from olympus. They have a regular 4/3 adapter, an OM adapter or a wireless flash. I'm leaning towards the OM adapter just for some old cheapish lenses but maybe I'm missing out on the possible gem 4/3 lenses I haven't paid any attention to. Thoughts?
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May 8, 2012 21:42
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HPL posted:If you're not going to shoot in low light much, get the m43. I know people say this all the time about all kinds of digital cameras but really, even the horrible-over-400 D200 is better than high speed color print films. I don't like the jpegs from my GF1 over ~1000 but the raws at 1600 are nicer than the scans I used to make from Press 1600. Does everybody need squeaky clean images at 6400 now?
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May 8, 2012 22:08
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Yeah but real film grain is ~analog~. 
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May 8, 2012 22:12
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Startyde posted:I know people say this all the time about all kinds of digital cameras but really, even the horrible-over-400 D200 is better than high speed color print films. I don't like the jpegs from my GF1 over ~1000 but the raws at 1600 are nicer than the scans I used to make from Press 1600. Does everybody need squeaky clean images at 6400 now? It doesn't need to be squeaky clean, but one thing I really, really like about the 5N is that when there is noise, it's much more even and film-like as opposed to my old 40D where the noise was practically screaming out loud because it was so patterny and obvious. I'm assuming it's more of a function of better sensor design than any size advantage. Like I said, if you're not shooting a ton in low light, then I would whole-heartedly recommend a m43 camera, but if you're doing it to the point where the vast majority of your shots end up at 3200 or 6400 then I would step up to APS-C. The big thing is that having good high ISO isn't solely about image quality, it's about flexibility. Going from the 40D which gave very marginal results at 3200 to the 5N which works well at 6400 was incredible for me because suddenly I could shoot without flash in situations where I never could before which meant less gear to carry and less fuss to set up and go when it was time to shoot. I often shoot in venues where even 12,800, f/1.8, 1/30 is barely enough to get a usable image. HPL fucked around with this message at 22:29 on May 8, 2012 |
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May 8, 2012 22:27
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I light fires posted:I'm thinking of throwing in with m4/3 crew on the new om-d and before I put in my pre order I was wondering what people think is the best deal for the pre order bonus you get when you pre order from olympus. They have a regular 4/3 adapter, an OM adapter or a wireless flash.
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May 8, 2012 22:32
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Augmented Dickey posted:Hows the AF on the 14-54 Mk2? I used to have the original version of that lens and it would barely function on my EP-1. I'm really struggling to not buy the E-M5 though. So far I've never spent more than $400-ish for a camera body. E-PL1 was 200, E-PM1 was 450 as a kit, current GH2 was 900 with the 14-140mm and current E-P3 was 500 for the kit. (Yeah, I'm a bit of a deal seeker.) So a thousand dollar body is a real step up in the pricing department, and I know I'll lose money reselling it later on. Normally I might just bite my tongue and wait 6 months, but those rebates are lurking and an MMF-3 would be perfect... Random Task fucked around with this message at 23:47 on May 8, 2012 |
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May 8, 2012 23:42
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So the new Sigma 30mm f/2.8's focal element inside the lens freely rattles about through its range when the lens isn't receiving power. That's rather disturbing, and I think I'm going to take it back because there's no way that's going to cause issues in the future.
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May 9, 2012 01:04
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LiquidRain posted:So the new Sigma 30mm f/2.8's focal element inside the lens freely rattles about through its range when the lens isn't receiving power. That's rather disturbing, and I think I'm going to take it back because there's no way that's going to cause issues in the future. They all rattle, or at least ones at my local camera shop, mine from b&h, and lots of forum peoples do.
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May 9, 2012 01:07
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SupahCoolX posted:I would say to skip the OM adapter either way because you can get off-brand ones on eBay for ~$15, or the Fotodiox one on Amazon for ~$20. Since those lenses don't use autofocus or any other fancy tech, there's nothing the Olympus adapter provides over the cheap ones. So, that adapter isn't the best use of your bargain/deal. Yeah the 4/3rds adapter would be a better deal, if it's the weather sealed one.
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May 9, 2012 08:14
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You guys remember the upcoming Leica conference where they will announce new products and people were hoping for Leica to come to their senses and release fuji x100/ x-pro 1 alternatives? yea...about that http://leicarumors.com/2012/05/10/new-leica-products-leaked-leica-m-monochrome-x2-50mm-cron.aspx/ $8000 camera that only shoots black and white 
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May 10, 2012 19:18
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Haha, God bless you Leica. Never stop being awesome.
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May 10, 2012 19:35
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keyframe posted:You guys remember the upcoming Leica conference where they will announce new products and people were hoping for Leica to come to their senses and release fuji x100/ x-pro 1 alternatives? Good lord 
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May 10, 2012 19:38
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If you are buying that camera you just HAVE to buy the 50mm f2 lens they just announced that also sells for $7000
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May 10, 2012 19:41
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