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Crawled underneath to start adjusting the hand brake and noticed a crack in one of the brake hoses. They are probably original 37 year old rubber so I went hunting online for a new set. One of the next jobs is a complete fluid flush anyway, so glad I found that now.
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May 10, 2012 04:55
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| # ? May 16, 2024 15:26 |
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This is more so of "What did your car do to you yesterday". Driving along in rush hour traffic, give it a little bit to get up and over into another lane and all of a sudden my gas pedal is stuck at full depression. Luckily I had just redone my brakes, but they still were unhappy about trying to stop a big rear end heavy V8 at redline. Not a floor mat, I had taken them out to get shampood earlier. Got to a side street, googled it, and other owners of my make/model have had the same issue a few times and they had to fully depress the gas pedal a few times when in neutral to correct it. It did, but no one had an answer as to what initially caused it.
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May 10, 2012 16:07
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JackRabbitStorm posted:This is more so of "What did your car do to you yesterday". Stuck spring?
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May 10, 2012 17:17
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JackRabbitStorm posted:This is more so of "What did your car do to you yesterday". Not know what "my make/model" is since you didn't mention it, I'll go with the most common reason: a filthy throttle body.
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May 10, 2012 18:45
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Motronic posted:Not know what "my make/model" is since you didn't mention it, I'll go with the most common reason: a filthy throttle body. I'll check that out today. And its a 2001 Lincoln LS
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May 10, 2012 20:25
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What did I do to my ride? I sold it and bought this:
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May 10, 2012 22:51
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One very dirty transmission received from a NissanClub forums user. $300 including shipping, supposedly only has 80k miles, out of a 97. He bought it for a 5 speed swap 4 years ago and totaled the car before he could do the swap, and he has a good seller reputation on that forum. Also included the upper mount, which seems to be in decent (but not new) shape. It's dirty as all hell, but it sat indoors. Input shaft spins freely, it's easy to shift through all gears, no odd noises spinning it by hand. Need to swap my backup light switch, speed sensor, and slave cylinder. One axle seal is bad on it (same one is bad on my existing one), doesn't seem to leak anywhere else (my current one leaks from the shifter rod). Mechanic is going to swap both axle seals along with the rear main seal on the engine, toss in a new clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing, new lower mount, and probably the lower engine mounts while it's on the lift. He's giving me a huge break on labor - partly because we've known each other so long, partly because I'm paying cash. Dropped off the car, should have it back Monday or Tuesday (he's swamped and he's a 1 man operation).  Took 45 minutes to get home via bus though (less than 5 miles)  But I ride all the city buses here for free with my student ID, at least. JackRabbitStorm posted:Attempted hardwiring my GPS, but I am thinking I got a bunk cord, because it didn't work. Did you accidentally swap the polarity? randomidiot fucked around with this message at 23:48 on May 10, 2012 |
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May 10, 2012 23:45
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The usual. Researched, sent e-mails, got pissed off. Discovered that one of the pre-existing seatbelt mount points is in the wrong place. Went looking for a mount point kit for the top point and found a void within Australia. Found a site that does have all sorts of neat things like C.R.A.B. bars, folding top mount points etc. but it looks like the parts are only available to either licensed installers or something like that. Also tried again to find brake hoses for my VW. This is bullshit. Everything I find that I need is always offshore or if it isn't restricted from the unwashed masses.
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May 11, 2012 00:20
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GramCracker posted:What did I do to my ride? I sold it and bought this: Wait, you already picked it up? Or is that what yours will look like?
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May 11, 2012 03:02
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DropShadow posted:Wait, you already picked it up? Or is that what yours will look like? That is mine! I picked it up last night.
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May 11, 2012 04:00
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Ordered it. 2013 Focus ST.
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May 11, 2012 18:42
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Endless Mike posted:Ordered it. 2013 Focus ST. Whoooooooo!
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May 11, 2012 19:38
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Just Originally in the shop to have the trans swapped and a new clutch installed, plus rear main seal. Labor was going to be $480 + clutch parts + rear main seal. His normal rate is $80/hr, and I think (but I'm not positive) that book labor on a trans R&R on this car is 7-8 hours. Labor around here typically runs $75 to $125 at non-dealer shops, he's definitely at the cheaper end. Then I realized that the motor mounts will be a lot easier to get to while it's all apart, and there's a loud CLUNK every time I let off the gas and the shifter jumped violently at the same time, so I asked him to check the motor mounts when he got it on the lift. Good thing I did, the only good mount is the one I replaced last year. Frankly I'm amazed the car doesn't vibrate more than it does, it only has a barely perceptible vibration at idle. So 2 motor mounts, 1 trans mount (new one came with a good upper, my lower is in rough shape), rear main seal, new axle seals on the new transmission, OEM Nissan clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing, swapping my VSS, backup light switch, and also swapping my existing slave cylinder to the new transmission. $1,083 out the door. I was expecting about $800-900.  I priced the clutch on courtesyparts.com, he's not marking it up much over what I could get it for. I could get the mounts for quite a bit less on rockauto and he'd be happy to put them on, but then I'd be stuck waiting for them to show up (and of course, no warranty). The rear main seal was a shocking $30 (OEM) - but again, only slightly over what I can get it for ($28.48 if I get it from courtesyparts.com).Though he offers a cash discount, so that'll help. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 00:53 on May 12, 2012 |
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May 11, 2012 23:47
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Not my ride, but I helped a lady change a flat tire today on her subaru (?) while out bicycling today. It had this weird jack with a pair of hooks that sorta clipped into a protruding bolt on the frame under the door. Another idiot I was with didn't clip it on right and the jack fell right over while I was working. Had the presence of mind to scramble away from it before it crushed anything important. I yelled at the moron "helping" before putting it on right and getting the job done myself.
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May 11, 2012 23:47
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I took my winter wheels and tires off and put on some summers: I should stop cornering at high speeds on dry, hot pavement with studded tires. The passenger side one has similar wear on the inside of the tire, so perhaps it's not my driving habits that are to blame.   The tires (Potenza GIII) were free with the wheels, so it's time to burn them off. The drop in circumference has made my speedometer all kinds of screwy (205/60/15 to 205/55/15). Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 23:57 on May 11, 2012 |
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May 11, 2012 23:53
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I took my winter wheels and tires off and put on some summers: It's only displaying about 3.3% faster than it was before.
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May 12, 2012 04:46
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Chinatown posted:drat that looks nice. Once I get the leaking PS hoses taken care of, I was going to (carefully) wash down the lower areas (frame rails, etc) with the hose sprayer. I'm going to try to clean up the more sensitive parts with something else, although I don't know what yet. eberbs posted:that is pure The red on the oil cap is actually the factory touch-up paint for my Honda. Honda paint code R-51, Phoenix Red. It was kind of an afterthought to be honest, but I had it laying around and figured it would be a nice touch and complement the red oil dipstick. I like the way it looks too, I'm very happy with how it turned out. I'm thinking about removing all of the black plastic parts I can, and spraying them with the same stuff I used to do the engine plastics. Have to get that nasty flaking BMW stuff off first though.
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May 12, 2012 05:30
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, I like the red on the top of the oil cap.
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:It's only displaying about 3.3% faster than it was before. 
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May 12, 2012 06:27
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Changed the oil on a family member's truck for them. Whoever designed the 3.0 in the Ford Ranger: go die in a fire. That oil filter could not be located in a worse spot.
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May 12, 2012 06:39
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Rorac posted:Changed the oil on a family member's truck for them. At least it's not a Miata.
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May 12, 2012 06:45
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:At least it's not a Miata. Which even if you put a remote oil filter kit on it, the only place to put that is pretty much the dashboard...
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May 12, 2012 17:46
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Rorac posted:Changed the oil on a family member's truck for them. I don't know about the 3.0 Ford, but I'd put the 2.0 motor in an '08 Civic Si up against just about anything as "worst." (Miatas are laughably easy in comparison.)
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May 12, 2012 17:49
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For the record, the oil filter is located on the side, with the exhaust manifold directly above it(bonus points, you can't see the bolt you need to screw the filter onto), below it is the frame and some other bits I couldn't care about, and to the side is the steering column. You have to worm your way under the column from above, find the point to screw it in by trial and error and on top of all this, due to the angles involved you cannot get a good grip on it, and unless you had the foresight or luck to have a filter with a bolt shape built into the bottom tools are out of the question.
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May 12, 2012 18:42
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meatpimp posted:I don't know about the 3.0 Ford, but I'd put the 2.0 motor in an '08 Civic Si up against just about anything as "worst." (Miatas are laughably easy in comparison.) If it's the same as the '09 then it's really not all that difficult. Just pop the wheel off and reach straight back past it. There's room to get an oil wrench back there and everything, no problem.
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May 12, 2012 19:28
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Just pop the wheel off SHOULD NOT BE IN THE INSTRUCTIONS TO CHANGE THE loving OIL.
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May 12, 2012 22:30
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meatpimp posted:SHOULD NOT BE IN THE INSTRUCTIONS TO CHANGE THE loving OIL. Uhh, Toyota has been doing this for... 19 years?
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May 12, 2012 22:33
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Sponge! posted:Uhh, Toyota has been doing this for... 19 years? Is there a reason that certain manufacturers don't use cartridge filters? It's so unbelivably simple to change the oil on my e36 and e46. I did a few things today. First up was a new idler and tensioner for my A/C belt. My kitchen cabinets worked in a pinch but I really think I need to get a vice.  Next up was the driveshaft guibo. Did it without dropping the exhaust, but it probably took me an hour to get the driveshaft back on the transmission output centering pin. I ended up prying the entire engine against the crossbace. Also did transmission mounts while I was in there. One of my old ones came out in two pieces.  
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May 12, 2012 23:46
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Got some nice new upper control arms for my 99 beater Civic. Easy, 20 minute per side job, tops. Pull the stuff in the way in the engine compartment, knock the wheel off, knock the ball joint out and unbolt two bolts from the engine compartment. Piece of cake, takes 10 minutes. New one goes in and the goddamned taper won't go into the knuckle easily like they sometimes do, so I put the wheel back on and drop the car down and then the GODDAMNED BALLJOINT THREADS STRIP. Now the castle nut is halfway on and won't go on or off and the taper isn't seated, so it's time to cut it off with a grinder and buy a new control arm. loving taiwanese/chinese/etc poo poo parts.
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May 13, 2012 03:19
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Hypnolobster posted:Got some nice new upper control arms for my 99 beater Civic. Easy, 20 minute per side job, tops. Pull the stuff in the way in the engine compartment, knock the wheel off, knock the ball joint out and unbolt two bolts from the engine compartment. Yeah, "No Chinese manufactured parts, please. I'll pay more for Japan..." is my new byline with car repairs. Machinist asked if I had a preference for the new exhaust valve the other day, I asked what my choices were. The Chinese one was $13, the USA was $22 and the Japan was $24. Yeah.
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May 13, 2012 03:57
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How do you change a cartridge filter without making an absurd mess? I can handle the 45-degree-angle screw-off on my own car without spilling a drop, but my wife's has a cart filter that drops STRAIGHT DOWN with zero poo poo in the way (or even near it) and it still makes a mess like a loving paintball grenade.
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May 13, 2012 08:30
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I'm pretty sure the e46 filter is on the top of the engine, so pretty easily.
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May 13, 2012 14:08
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Endless Mike posted:I'm pretty sure the e46 filter is on the top of the engine, so pretty easily. Yup. Pop it directly into a ziploc bag when you take it out. The fact that someone would design a cartridge filter that goes in upside down just baffles me even more.
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May 13, 2012 23:11
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I just swapped the blower motor resistor on my '98 200SX SE-R. Thanks for making the blower motor and resistor so easy to access, Nissan. Only eight screws total (and six of those were just to take the glovebox and latch out). I hope it's this easy on Subarus. Weird that it died after only 62,000 km but there was some weird corrosion on it, and replacing it made everything hunky dory so it must have been broken. 
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May 14, 2012 02:10
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Ripped everything out of it
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May 14, 2012 02:15
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Blew up something in the drive train today after playing in the mud. And had to pypass a seized vaccum pump... good times. I'm guessing water/mud contamination in one of my portal hubs. The gearset and spindle is fine since a wheel didn't pop off [  ], but I'm guessing the bearings are nice bits of metal pinging around in the hub.Ah well I was meaning to rebuild the hubs anyways. Time to hit the timken catalog.. On the upside I made a perfect mud casting of a 6.5 turbodiesel.. 
Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 04:27 on May 14, 2012 |
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May 14, 2012 04:23
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meatpimp posted:SHOULD NOT BE IN THE INSTRUCTIONS TO CHANGE THE loving OIL. We can't all drive trucks. Besides it takes like 60 seconds to take a wheels off, I see no problem with this. Crustashio posted:I did a few things today. First up was a new idler and tensioner for my A/C belt. My kitchen cabinets worked in a pinch but I really think I need to get a vice. This is incredibly resourceful. You may have just put off my bench vice purchase even longer.
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May 14, 2012 16:31
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:We can't all drive trucks. Besides it takes like 60 seconds to take a wheels off, I see no problem with this.  click the image to find the oil filter
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May 14, 2012 17:44
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MiniFoo posted:
Invert vehicle for clean removal.
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May 14, 2012 17:48
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Free rustproofing with every oil change!
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May 14, 2012 17:49
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| # ? May 16, 2024 15:26 |
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Whack a hole into the filter with a screwdriver, drink a beer, come back to drained filter. Boom, no mess!
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May 14, 2012 17:54
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