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Millstone posted:You ain't poo poo until your car catches fire 6 times a day Then you're flaming poo poo
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May 12, 2012 09:59
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For some reason, amid all that, my favorite is the satellite receiver on the hood
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May 12, 2012 15:16
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greenman100 posted:And Romex? Wow. I'm glad I'm not the only one who noticed that. It's my favorite part. Although to be safe he ought to get that splice in a box 
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May 12, 2012 15:20
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Home theatre sub housing, at least that's what he told me. I wanted that thing out of the shop as quickly as possible for obvious reasons.
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May 12, 2012 17:51
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We now present "How to wire up a sound system in your car as stupidly as possible!"
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May 12, 2012 17:52
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Home theatre sub housing, at least that's what he told me. I wanted that thing out of the shop as quickly as possible for obvious reasons. You should have installed several bags of gasoline and a model rocket ignitor inside the sub housing...
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May 12, 2012 21:20
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opengl128 posted:For some reason, amid all that, my favorite is the satellite receiver on the hood Mine is on the hood of my Flex. Granted, it's running through the door gasket, so oh well.
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May 13, 2012 04:13
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Cakefool posted:I can't be the only person who looked at that & thought "huh, suicide doors eh? So where's this damage?"
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May 13, 2012 04:14
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Me and Allen bolts don't get along: And as the last bolt holding onto the driveshaft....I wanted it out bad. And this took all Sunday
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May 13, 2012 04:29
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I think I have broken every one of those bits that I've ever tried to use. gently caress those things.
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May 13, 2012 06:18
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Godholio posted:I think I have broken every one of those bits that I've ever tried to use. gently caress those things. I thought it stripped the bolt more....it didn't thankfully and actually got it out. I was sure it wouldn't work, but was out of ideas beyond cutting off the head. I'm replacing the Allen bolts with either Torx or Triple Square. CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 06:21 on May 13, 2012 |
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May 13, 2012 06:19
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Powershift posted:and 9:01 monday morning his insurance company is going to tell him to gently caress off, and he's out 40 grand. When I used to amateur race a lot of the track days were called "driver training" that way it wasn't racing and could be claimed on your insurance* *Or so I was told after watching someone flip their M3 over a wall. I always drove beaters and didn't care.
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May 13, 2012 12:34
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obso posted:When I used to amateur race a lot of the track days were called "driver training" that way it wasn't racing and could be claimed on your insurance* This is typically correct. If you have non-lovely insurance, high-speed "driver education" is usually fine, plain track days for fun may go either way, and competition is where the line is drawn. I'm with a certain "good neighbor" company and they supposedly cut it at competition. I haven't actually read my policy to verify, but my what my agent told me matches internet reports, that they'll ask a lot of questions and go as far as contacting the event organizers to verify it wasn't a race, but in the end if it's a legit track day without any sort of official or "wink wink" unofficial ranking/prizes it'll be covered. That said, One Lap's track events are ranked and they award prizes, so they're competitions as far as my insurance is concerned and I'd assume the same for this guy.
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May 13, 2012 20:42
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It's amazingly easy to have huge stacks just outside a track when you're going to spectate.
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May 13, 2012 21:00
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quote:UPDATE I spoke with Brock Yates earlier this evening and he explained that the experienced driver of the vehicle has a long history racing, both with One Lap and in general, and that the cause of the crash was the CTS-V going into "ice mode," which he says caused the ABS to react in a way that lead to the crash. Thus, it was apparently a vehicle quirk, not driver error, that led to the crash. Ahhh, so they did deny the insurance claim and now the driver needs to get all set up to go after GM. Makes perfect sense.
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May 13, 2012 21:07
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You can buy specific track day insurance. It's pretty reasonable but typically has a high deductible. I had never heard of ice mode ABS before and thought that guy was full of poo poo. But after searching for some information, looks like it's a pretty significant problem. Pretty lovely how the electronic nannies help babysit your car right into a tire wall.
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May 13, 2012 21:20
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:You can buy specific track day insurance. It's pretty reasonable but typically has a high deductible. The ice mode on the Corvette was so bad I drove with the ABS fuse pulled for about 5 months before I lemon'ed it. Hitting a small bump in the road while applying the brakes meant they essentially stopped working.
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May 13, 2012 21:40
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Das Volk posted:JDM before JDM was cool I've been JDM my whole life.
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May 14, 2012 04:16
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CommieGIR posted:Me and Allen bolts don't get along: OH MY GOD. This might be the first time I've ever seen one of these actually work.
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May 14, 2012 16:29
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The trick is not to apply any side/bending force to them, it's largely a feel thing, same with using hand taps. In that instance, I'd have been tempted to weld a hex nut on it instead. It depends on access, really.
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May 14, 2012 17:51
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holy gently caress, you got an ez-snap to work. You are a god. Buy lottery tickets now. Or don't, because you used up all your luck for the next decade.
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May 14, 2012 18:01
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I was successfully able to remove a broken exhaust bolt from a B28F using one of these*: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952152000P?mv=rr *Of course I had the engine on a stand and had perfect straight on access to the affected part. Even then, subsequent attempts to use this tool were met with total failure.
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May 14, 2012 18:07
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I just use the ones you hammer onto the bolt head. They cut into it at like 8 points and you just throw a wrench on it. I gave up on extractors, they're way too brittle.
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May 14, 2012 18:18
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Godholio posted:I just use the ones you hammer onto the bolt head. They cut into it at like 8 points and you just throw a wrench on it. I gave up on extractors, they're way too brittle. That's what I use too, they work pretty awesome. The main issue with extractors isn't that they suck. It's that they break off inside your stuck bolt. And now you're extra hosed because, not only do you have a stuck bolt, it has a bit of hardened steel stuck in it that you can't drill out.
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May 14, 2012 18:33
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Panaflex posted:I was successfully able to remove a broken exhaust bolt from a B28F using one of these*: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952152000P?mv=rr I bought that kit for the exact same purpose.....didn't work for me
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May 14, 2012 18:38
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chrisgt posted:That's what I use too, they work pretty awesome. This is the part where you buy about 6 chainsaw sharpening bits for you Dremel and curse for the next half hour while you grind it out.
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May 14, 2012 18:52
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Godholio posted:I just use the ones you hammer onto the bolt head. They cut into it at like 8 points and you just throw a wrench on it. I gave up on extractors, they're way too brittle. Impact Torx bits and a sledgehammer will also achieve this, and a 1/2"-drive 8-inch impact extension makes a great grip while you're pounding.
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May 14, 2012 19:32
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Panaflex posted:I was successfully able to remove a broken exhaust bolt from a B28F using one of these*: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952152000P?mv=rr I successfully used those last time I tore my carb apart on my bike, it was the first time I had been able to use them successfully. I think I have replaced half the bolts on my bikes, they use the softest metal possible.
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May 14, 2012 19:36
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Splizwarf posted:Impact Torx bits and a sledgehammer will also achieve this, and a 1/2"-drive 8-inch impact extension makes a great grip while you're pounding. On allen heads, this is the only solution I trust. Even with stainless steel bolts it has never failed me.
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May 14, 2012 19:38
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I've had good luck clamping vice grips onto the head and unscrewing it
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May 14, 2012 19:43
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Brigdh posted:I've had good luck clamping vice grips onto the head and hitting them sumbitches with a 3-pound sledge. Fixed that for ya.  Plus it's so goddamned satisfying.
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May 14, 2012 19:46
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I submit Chrysler part number 6506 264AA... the quadratrack suspension track bar nut. It is a 15mm M10 nut with a sheetmetal "flag" placed around the base of the hex, then the corners are staked down to hold the flag in place. This is all well and good when they are rust free or being installed at the plant, but after 10 years in the northeast it is a recipe for a really lovely afternoon. The flag always bends or stretches till the nut spins, and it's in such a tight spot you can't really get a wrench or a socket on it. And even if you could, they staked the loving corners, so it's drat near round!  I even hit it with oxyacetylene till it was red hot and quenched it with PBBlaster before touching it...  looks like it's getting melted off and replaced.
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May 14, 2012 19:57
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kastein posted:I even hit it with oxyacetylene till it was red hot and quenched it with PBBlaster before touching it... I don't miss this kind of poo poo from when I lived in Minnesota. Every exhaust fastener or upper shock fastener was like this.
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May 15, 2012 02:25
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Brigdh posted:I've had good luck clamping vice grips onto the head and unscrewing it I did that once with a stuck distributor cap bolt, only to twist the head clean off. "No problem" I thought, since I could then remove the part. I then twisted off the remainder of the bolt, leaving it flush with the timing cover. Distributor cap is now held on with 2 bolts on that car...
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May 15, 2012 02:43
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Splizwarf posted:Impact Torx bits and a sledgehammer will also achieve this, and a 1/2"-drive 8-inch impact extension makes a great grip while you're pounding. I recently bought a compressor and some air tools, and this strikes me as a fantastic idea. VVV I really need to learn how to weld. Godholio fucked around with this message at 03:26 on May 15, 2012 |
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May 15, 2012 03:18
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I like to set a nut down over the top and then put a bead of weld on it. The main thing I have used as a mechanic with allen cap head screws is a 3/8" drive "impact driver". That and knowing when your limits with a regular allen are up and it is time to use it. Or knowing how to hammer the head back into something usable when someone else has turned the flats out.  The toughest thing this tool loosens is steel threaded plugs from iron blocks. This is what the new kind looks like. http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4608-Impact-Driver/dp/B000HT8I9O  I looked on youtube there is not one "how to" for this tool. Maybe someday I should make one. B4Ctom1 fucked around with this message at 03:28 on May 15, 2012 |
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May 15, 2012 03:25
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Here is one being used by an idiot. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDcxisoTMWg Ignore the "hit a plastic screw driver with a hammer" and "hit a hammer with a hammer" bits.
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May 15, 2012 03:39
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B4Ctom1 posted:I like to set a nut down over the top and then put a bead of weld on it. Its great...but you wouldn't have been able to fit that where I was putting the tool. It was on the end of the prop shaft, and you had to go in at an angle
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May 15, 2012 03:50
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kastein posted:I even hit it with oxyacetylene till it was red hot and quenched it with PBBlaster before touching it...
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May 15, 2012 04:00
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That was rather satisfying and I only got one slag-related second degree burn. I burned the flag nut off the end of the bolt, then burned the track bar off the bushing, cut the track bar in half with the torch so I could work on each end separately, burned the bushing off the sleeve, the sleeve off the bolt, then burned the bolt in half for good measure... then burned the nut off the upper (TRE style) end of the track bar, along with the stud. The only tools I used to remove the entire thing were the oxyacetylene torch and a 3lb BFH. Had to carefully salvage a bolt and a flag nut from the parts XJ on the other side of the yard, as the hardware store was closed. The new one went in easily. I'll let some other poor sod worry about getting that flag nut off in another 14 years.
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May 15, 2012 05:07
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