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coffeetable posted:So, potential options: I just built a system last weekend using an Arc Midi, and while I don't, unfortunately, have any metrics for you, I can say that I was pleasantly surprised at how quiet it was.
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May 15, 2012 19:41
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Agreed posted:Man, an extender for that ought to be packaged with PSUs. I always have to do some goofy poo poo like run it alongside the rear fan and tighten it to the fan with a zip-tie or something like that. And in this case, as a fellow NH-D14 ( The cut on my hand still hasn't healed. 
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May 15, 2012 19:44
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) owner who did not plug in the 8-pin 'til the mobo and PSU were installed, let me tell you, plugging that barely-long-enough fucker in... was an unpleasant experience.
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Folderol posted:I just built a system last weekend using an Arc Midi, and while I don't, unfortunately, have any metrics for you, I can say that I was pleasantly surprised at how quiet it was. Thanks for the reassurance  . In that case, I think a stock Arc Midi would suit my needs fine. Having said that, KillHour posted:If you want a "black monolith", you want the Define XL. http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&prod=68 Christ almighty. It's without a doubt massive overkill - 8kg, £50 and likely ten litres more than I need - but I'm still mighty tempted. How many cable extensions would you guys recommend, were I to take the silly-daft-monolith route? Got a week to think all this over either way. Cheers for the advice all
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May 15, 2012 19:57
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Agreed posted:Man, an extender for that ought to be packaged with PSUs. I always have to do some goofy poo poo like run it alongside the rear fan and tighten it to the fan with a zip-tie or something like that. And in this case, as a fellow NH-D14 ( See with the Archon your hand has plenty of room to grab the plug, and with the 650D and a seasonic based PSU there is plenty of room for the 8-pin to be pulled behind the motherboard tray 
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May 15, 2012 20:13
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Dogen posted:See with the Archon your hand has plenty of room to grab the plug, and with the 650D and a seasonic based PSU there is plenty of room for the 8-pin to be pulled behind the motherboard tray Man, all I have to say to you is you can go... ... 
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May 15, 2012 20:28
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Dogen posted:See with the Archon your hand has plenty of room to grab the plug, and with the 650D and a seasonic based PSU there is plenty of room for the 8-pin to be pulled behind the motherboard tray Noctua: Airflow 110.3 / 92.3 m³/h Airflow with U.L.N.A. 83,7 / 63,4 m³/h Acoustical Noise 19,6 / 19,8 dB(A) Acoustical Noise with U.L.N.A. 13,2 / 12,6 dB(A) Archon: Fan noise: 19~21dBA Airflow: 95.14~124 m³/h
KillHour fucked around with this message at 21:00 on May 15, 2012 |
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May 15, 2012 20:37
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Yeah, well, my penis is quieter and older than both of yours!  (I have a Thermalright Ultra 120 from god knows how long ago with a PWM Delta AFB strapped to it, I think.)
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May 15, 2012 20:46
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KillHour posted:Noctua: More like 19-23dBA Airflow: 38-84CFM And I got two of those fans, so however you compound those numbers together They're practically silent under load despite what the 23dBA might suggest.
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May 15, 2012 20:59
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KillHour posted:Noctua: Airflow: 0 m³/h Acoustical Noise 0 dB(A)  Technically only passive at idle 
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May 15, 2012 21:25
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I will literally beat you up, each of you, who wants to fight
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May 15, 2012 21:26
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Agreed posted:I will literally beat you up, each of you, who wants to fight The guy with the largest hunk of metal cooler is probably going to win. 1.8 kilograms or almost four loving pounds.
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May 15, 2012 21:35
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movax posted:The guy with the largest hunk of metal cooler is probably going to win. I get such an irrational boner for that thing, even though its performance is extremely disappointing compared to boring old regular aluminum fins on the same model, and you probably ought to build some scaffolding to support the installation. It's just... so... beautiful 
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May 15, 2012 21:39
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Agreed posted:I get such an irrational boner for that thing, even though its performance is extremely disappointing compared to boring old regular aluminum fins on the same model, and you probably ought to build some scaffolding to support the installation. It's just... so... beautiful This is true, I have the non Copper one and though it isn't copper, it still does look and perform drat good for how old it is. I was tempted to get a mounting kit for it to try on my SB-E Just to see how it would perform in a push/pull.
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May 15, 2012 21:48
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If there's one thing we can probably all agree on, it's that nickel plating is purty
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May 16, 2012 03:22
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Okay, here's the deal: everyone pick your favorite heatsink, then we draw a circle on the ground, stick some Delta fans on them, and play heatsink sumo.
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May 16, 2012 03:27
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Does heat-sink design lead to larger cases, or do case changes lead to larger heat-sinks?
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May 16, 2012 04:59
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Factory Factory posted:Okay, here's the deal: everyone pick your favorite heatsink, then we draw a circle on the ground, stick some Delta fans on them, and play heatsink sumo. I actually had a 250CFM Delta monster that would move across the table when you kicked it on... I got rid of that one when it tried to remove my finger. Rather quickly got over the ludicrous-speed class of fans after that happened.
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May 16, 2012 05:06
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I go to Noctua for my 120mm/140mm fans because they apparently last the computer equivalent of forever, are incredibly quiet, and have great airflow for their noise level. Plus they're readily available. Still using Corsair 200mm fans, and with three of them in the case, replacing them would represent a non-trivial pain in the rear end (and expense) so they're probably going to continue being used. Good enough air flow to noise - they're really, really quiet, and they move air well. My components stay cool. I'll probably cut down on noise and give up on CUDA by picking up a nice, non-blower model of the GTX 680 in a month or two. Yeah, it's a big price premium for a ~10% performance increase, but 1. I won't be suggesting anyone else do it, and 2. I have to wonder about power delivery and overclocking capability given the remarkably shorter board on the 670. LorneReams posted:Does heat-sink design lead to larger cases, or do case changes lead to larger heat-sinks? Not sure if this is a serious question, but I believe the interior dimensions would be part of the ATX specifications, and heat sink manufacturers take those into consideration (and so do case manufacturers). Cases with special features, motherboards with certain features, stupid tall peacock-feather RAM heatspreaders, and some heat sinks are incompatible (any mixture of those can present an incompatibility). Specs are revised, and so are designs. But the chicken probably comes first. We're lucky Intel didn't get their way when revising ATX, we'd have some screwed up layouts to work with internally...
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May 16, 2012 05:27
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I recently built a computer at work with the following: i5 2500K, asus P8Z68 DELUXE/GEN3, Thermalright H2 Macho. I was able to overclock the CPU to 4.5 GHz with CPU temperatures lying stably between 52-54 degrees C during stress testing. Now I have built a new system at home with an i5 3570K, asus p8z77-v Pro, the same cooler and the same case even. From what I had read in this subforum I was expecting to be able to overclock the 4570K to 4.5 GHz as well, but as it is I am unable to even hit 4.4 GHz without temperatures going to 75-80 degrees. The only things I have changed in the BIOS are the following: - Turbo ratio limit to x44. - Manual CPU voltage control instead of offset. - Had to increase the voltage to 1.25V to get it running stably with prime95. - Disabled CPU PLL overvolting. - Changed the DRAM frequency to 1600 from the default 1333 as I bought 1600 MHz RAM. - Lowered the DRAM voltage to 1.5, as it was set at 1.655 by default. With these changes I am seeing CPU temperatures occasionally getting as high as 80 degrees C. It appears that the highest i can go with temperatures below 72 degrees is 4.2 MHz. I am quite disappointed and hope that I have just made some stupid mistake. Is this what I can expect with the hardware I got, or can I do something to get better results? Lars Krimi fucked around with this message at 08:15 on May 16, 2012 |
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May 16, 2012 07:50
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Lars Krimi posted:I recently built a computer at work with the following: i5 2500K, asus P8Z68 DELUXE/GEN3, Thermalright H2 Macho. I was able to overclock the CPU to 4.5 GHz with CPU temperatures lying stably between 52-54 degrees C during stress testing.
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May 16, 2012 08:23
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I tried to pull the side off the case which causes CPU temperatures to be about 10 degrees lower under stress test. Perhaps an extra case fan is in order?
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May 16, 2012 08:32
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Do modern Intel systems have any weird problems with running 4 sticks of ram? I want to build a new system with 16gb, but I will probably never upgrade and it looks like I can get 4 sticks of ram that is faster than 2 for less money.
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May 16, 2012 09:04
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You might need to push the DRAM voltage a bit (I use 1.525V for my 4x4GB sticks), otherwise generally no.
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May 16, 2012 09:08
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Lars Krimi posted:I tried to pull the side off the case which causes CPU temperatures to be about 10 degrees lower under stress test. Perhaps an extra case fan is in order?
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May 16, 2012 15:57
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I got my Sapphire Radeon HD7850 today so how far can I safely overclock it on stock voltage? Do I just set the GPU clock slider all the to the right to 1050MHz in AMD overdrive on the CCC and call it a day?
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May 16, 2012 21:01
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I dunno. Read some reviews. Try it and do stability tests until it's as stable as you want it to be.
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May 16, 2012 23:39
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grumperfish posted:For anyone with an ATI/AMD card running catalyst 12.3 or higher: Could we get this added to the OP?
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May 18, 2012 00:47
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Have they changed fan mounting since 775? I have a Thermalright Ultra Extreme 120 or whatever and am wondering if I can use it on an 1155 motherboard.
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May 18, 2012 03:27
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Lowclock posted:Have they changed fan mounting since 775? I have a Thermalright Ultra Extreme 120 or whatever and am wondering if I can use it on an 1155 motherboard. Yep. I have the same cooler, just order a 1155/1156 adapter kit and you'll be a-ok. I don't recall the model # off-hand. e: From FrozenCPU it was Thermalright LGA 1156 Bolt-Thru-Kit Rev B. (Ultra Series / MUX-120 / IFX-14 / Venomous X / Ultima 90 / Cogage True Spirit) movax fucked around with this message at 03:36 on May 18, 2012 |
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May 18, 2012 03:32
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movax posted:Yep. I have the same cooler, just order a 1155/1156 adapter kit and you'll be a-ok. I don't recall the model # off-hand. http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/thvebtkinso1.html And here's the one on FrozenCPU: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...ue_Spirit_.html The Ven-X style mounting kit is the same one that shipped with my HR-02. It's nice because you can tighten it for more pressure and you can re-mount the cooler without removing the motherboard from the case (note that this is tough when you're talking about the larger models). You may need a long philip's head screwdriver for the installation - I can't remember how wide the TRUE's are vs. the mounting kit's bolts.
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May 18, 2012 05:27
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I'm using an i5 2500k on an ASUS Sabertooth P67 motherboard and I'd love to reach 5.0 GHz. Right now I'm at 4.5 GHz with 1.285v (manual) and LLC set to Ultra-High. (is this bad?) What are my next steps to reaching 5.0 GHz? I'm using a Thermaltake TRUE heatsink which I think might be limiting me but I don't know...
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May 18, 2012 12:39
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Vinlaen posted:I'm using an i5 2500k on an ASUS Sabertooth P67 motherboard and I'd love to reach 5.0 GHz. Please read the OP
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May 18, 2012 14:52
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Got my most recent rig up and running - nothing huge but it gets the job done (so far). Some spare parts from another PC with a bad motherboard, parts I already had from previous old builds, and about $400 later, I got a decent little setup: AMD Phenom II x4 820 Cooler Master Hyper212+ (using Arctic Silver 5 paste) 8GB G-Skill RipJaws DDR3 1600 (2 x 4GB) 1TB WD Caviar HDD Asus M5A99X-EVO AM3+ Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 1GB (1Ghz core, 1.2Ghz memory, 1.25v) SB Audigy 2 ZS PCI (onboard Realtek for the Asus board sucks) Antec 850W modular PSU Antec 300 mid-tower case Sony DVD-R/RW DL & CD-R/RW optical Kingston V-Series 128GB SSD So far I'm running Prime stress testing @ 3.72Ghz on the CPU, been stable thus far - I switched up how I did the overclock and tweaked a bit. Originally I had it running 265FSB with a 14x multiplier with the RAM running @ 1766 and HT running ~1988, but changed to 310FSB and 12x multi, RAM running at ~1655Mhz and HT at 1860 instead. I've pretty much hit the limit of the CPU itself, anything past 3.72Ghz locks the system up or fails Prime within a couple minutes.  Next purchase *might* be a Phenom x4 BE chip, saw a few on Newegg with promo codes and such...this chip is pretty decent but I'd like to have the extra cache and headroom with an unlocked multiplier.
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May 19, 2012 02:12
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Normally I wouldn't recommend buying any AMD chips, but the way that's volted, you probably will need a new one in a year or two, yeah.
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May 19, 2012 02:22
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I have a Hyper 212 Plus on my 2500K in a Fractal R3 and my computer is virtually silent at idle. However, the CPU cooler gets a little loud for my taste under load. I'd like to replace the 120mm on the Hyper 212. I know there's some recommended fans in the OP, but there is a general consensus on the best (quiestest) 120mm PWM fan?
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May 19, 2012 03:28
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Factory Factory posted:Normally I wouldn't recommend buying any AMD chips, but the way that's volted, you probably will need a new one in a year or two, yeah. Yeah, CPU-Z reads different than anything else does, including BIOS. I checked around and the max "safe" voltage seems to be around 1.5v, but that 1.488v was the reading CPU-Z gave during the Prime testing. After I stopped the test it dropped back down to around 1.46, I'm still tweaking around to see what BIOS setting is causing the spike. Also, I'm not using the stock fan that came with the Hyper 212 - I had a 2 pack of 120mm fans that are rated at 44CFM and put one of those on. It doesn't sound bad at all, in fact the case fans I have installed all pretty much drown it out (and they're all maybe 30-35CFM each).
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May 19, 2012 04:54
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It's probably better bang for your buck to add a second fan in push-pull. I used a slow fixed-speed Scythe Slipstream on mine, and it saved me 5 C on heat and therefore keeps the PWM fan off its fastest speed at full load. If you think you would need more, a 1000 RPM Noiseblocker Multiframe would do it. Otherwise, you'd be looking at a pair of new fans to get significantly better performance. Noiseblocker also does a 120mm PWM fan, but the absolute best would be to get a ridiculous high-static-pressure fan and stick it on a rheostat. Very much diminishing returns for the price.
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May 19, 2012 04:59
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I swapped my H67 board to Z77 in order to overclock my 2600k to 4.6 GHz, but now my buddy who's buying the old motherboard for his dad wants the 2600k and is willing to trade me a 3770k he got for cheap from MicroCenter. I'm not even sure I want to: 1. It's a complete bitch to swap the CPU in my system, and I just did it a week ago. 2. I'm not sure I'll hit the same clock speeds or see a performance difference.
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May 19, 2012 05:04
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Why does his dad want the 2600K over the 3770K? Anyway, equivalent average performance to your existing chip will be around 4.4 GHz, which shouldn't be a problem. I guess if you use QuickSync it's a cool deal?? Otherwise, it seems silly an arbitrary all around. Alternatively, I'd swap with the guy for my 2500K 
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May 19, 2012 05:09
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Factory Factory posted:Why does his dad want the 2600K over the 3770K?
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May 19, 2012 05:14
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