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I remember something about the air tools losing power quickly, but I don't know how long ago it was posted; a while back. Something I missed: pliers. At least a bent nose and a long needle nose. Part of the deal is you'll still find yourself borrowing tools, which is okay because everyone understands that you can't plan ahead for everything (on a budget anyway). The etiquette is usually "Borrow it once, happy to help; borrow it twice, buy one tonight". e: one more thing: it might look stupid but who fuckin' cares: get an elastic sweatband for your head (even better, get 5 and wash 'em at the end of the week). It beats the poo poo out of every alternative besides great AC, which I guarantee you will not have. I recommend black so it doesn't look terrible when it gets crapped up (it will). Before you use them the first time, wash and dry them twice on hot/cold so you're sure they won't bleed any dye on your forehead and make you look hilarious. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 19:42 on May 16, 2012 |
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May 16, 2012 19:37
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| # ? Apr 27, 2024 00:41 |
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Harbor freight air tools are not crop. I've got their 1/2 impact (earthquake), die grinder , angle die grinder, needle gun, etc. All work great and were cheap. The only complaint about the earthquake impact is that it's heavy and loud as hell.
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May 16, 2012 20:29
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sharkytm posted:Harbor freight air tools are not crop. I've got their 1/2 impact (earthquake), die grinder , angle die grinder, needle gun, etc. All work great and were cheap. The only complaint about the earthquake impact is that it's heavy and loud as hell. I'll agree with the "not crap". I have several. I think they get a bad rap for losing power because they are often baby's first air tools and aren't lubricated properly by the uninitiated. Most of them are pretty big for their power output, so it makes tight spots more difficult than with tools that cost 4 times as much.
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May 16, 2012 20:36
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Can you tell me about proper lubricating for baby's first air tool then?
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May 16, 2012 20:50
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OnlyJuanMon posted:Can you tell me about proper lubricating for baby's first air tool then? When you first get it, turn it upside down and fill it with oil up to the top of the air fitting. Now squeeze the trigger to let the oil run into the tool. Hook it up to the air hose, point the exhaust at the ground/away from you and run it until no more oil flies out. Now just add a few drops every morning before you use it. You don't need to add so much that it runs out every day.....you'll get the feel for it. Each tool is a little different in how much it takes. If you don't do that they either sludge up or rust from the condensation in the shop air supply. Motronic fucked around with this message at 21:07 on May 16, 2012 |
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May 16, 2012 21:04
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 I literally had no idea I had to fill it. Thanks! Does this mean I need to take the fitting out that I screwed in and then fill it? I knew they had oil lubricating them, as it sometimes comes out of the exhaust. Which oil should I be using?
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May 16, 2012 21:08
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That's somewhat better than my "Forget entirely 90% of the time then have a sulk when it won't work and I have to rebuild it". Edit: Just ask your tool shop for air tool oil, buy a quart and a dripper bottle so you can fill the tools easily.
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May 16, 2012 21:09
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OnlyJuanMon posted:
Nope, fill it to the top of your air fitting. No need to remove it. As far as what kind of oil, "air tool oil". The have it at HF and pretty much any place that sells air tools. It has a squeeze top on it that fits right in the air fitting so it doesn't make a mess.
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May 16, 2012 21:12
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Ah, okay. For some reason I had it in my head that I would be filling the whole loving gun. But just fill it to the top of the air fitting, attach it to the hose, then add a few drops every day. Thanks!
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May 16, 2012 21:18
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OnlyJuanMon posted:Ah, okay. For some reason I had it in my head that I would be filling the whole loving gun. But just fill it to the top of the air fitting, attach it to the hose, then add a few drops every day. Thanks! Yep. Just to the top of the air fitting on that first fill or after a rebuild (or after it's been sitting for months) to make sure you get it really lubed up. It's really not that much oil....you aren't filling the whole thing, just up to the valve. Then when you press the valve it dumps in. Then hook up the hose.
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May 16, 2012 21:28
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In a pinch I've used regular motor oil, but the real stuff is better. I figure anything is better than letting the moisture eat the tool alive. I've been considering getting one of those "inline oiler" devices that screws into the air line, then putting it between some quick disconnects and using it with all the air tools. Only reason I wouldn't put it directly on the end of my air hose is that I don't want to fill my tires with air tool oil.
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May 16, 2012 22:12
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kastein posted:Only reason I wouldn't put it directly on the end of my air hose is that I don't want to fill my tires with air tool oil. Which you will even on a quick disconnect because the inside of your hoses will be loaded with oil. I've though av the same thing, but keep going back to a big no. The only way I'd do it would be to have a separate air tool hose/hoses and manifold the "air only" ones back behind the oiler.
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May 17, 2012 00:27
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I use kroil to lube my air tools, and it works great.
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May 17, 2012 01:37
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Motronic posted:Which you will even on a quick disconnect because the inside of your hoses will be loaded with oil. That's what I mean. Basically an inline oiler with disconnects on both sides, that I insert between the air hose and the tool. If I'm wanting just air, remove it, and connect my blowgun/tire filler/whatever directly to the hose.
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May 17, 2012 03:41
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Make sure you have some wobbly impact sockets. They let you use your impact gun in more applications. You may also want a 3/8 drive impact gun. It won't be as powerful, but they tent to be much lighter. It won't be much help on wheels and tires though.
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May 17, 2012 04:10
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kastein posted:That's what I mean. Basically an inline oiler with disconnects on both sides, that I insert between the air hose and the tool. If I'm wanting just air, remove it, and connect my blowgun/tire filler/whatever directly to the hose. Maybe I'm misunderstanding you or I wasn't being clear.....if you run a hose in front of an oiler, even after you remove the oiler the hose is gonna blow oil on/in everything. You'd need separate air hoses to pull this off.
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May 17, 2012 04:32
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He's talking about Compressor -> Hose -> Quick Connect -> Oiler -> Short Hose -> Air Tool. The short hose goes away with the oiler when that's disconnected, and is the only section of hose that gets oil in it.
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May 17, 2012 04:34
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Splizwarf posted:He's talking about Compressor -> Hose -> Quick Connect -> Oiler -> Short Hose -> Air Tool. The short hose goes away with the oiler when that's disconnected, and is the only section of hose that gets oil in it. I guess the only oilers I've seen are absolutely mount-it-to-the-wall type deals, so I don't see how I'd set one up other than at the manifold. That and I use retractable hoses on the ceiling.
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May 17, 2012 04:45
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Ok so I had a $60 part that I wanted to install on the underside of my mustang, this was as good of an excuse as any for a trip to sears for some goddamn overpriced tools. Socket Set Low Profile Jack Might need to get a different one that goes up higher, we will see... Jack Stands I guess I made out ok for someone who will probably only ever change the oil. I've needed a socket set for a while just for basic home maintenance and the jack/stands weren't that much more. The only problem is that when i jack up one side of the mustang the whole car comes up (front and back wheels), I wasn't comfortable with this so I never made it high enough to put the jack stands in (my part remains uninstalled). Is it ok if the whole side of the car comes up, I know the rear tire will come back down when I jack the other side up.
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May 17, 2012 05:06
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Try ramps next time.
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May 17, 2012 11:10
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If you get an air tool stuck the first thing to try to fix it is WD-40 btw Also HF's like $20 air ratchet does in fact suck. I have had a pepboys one that I've used many many many times since I was 16. (I'm 23 now) The harbor freight one I used for quickly opening and closing vises at the machine shop I was at broke within a few weeks. The little ball bearing that retains the socket fell out. While I could still use the tool it wouldnt retain sockets for poo poo of course. Lord Gaga fucked around with this message at 13:30 on May 17, 2012 |
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May 17, 2012 13:27
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Rabble posted:Ok so I had a $60 part that I wanted to install on the underside of my mustang, this was as good of an excuse as any for a trip to sears for some goddamn overpriced tools. Get some pep boys plastic ramps for like 40 bucks.
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May 17, 2012 14:02
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Thanks for the advice guys, maybe I'll take the stands back and keep the jack for if I ever want to change the tires.
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May 17, 2012 14:21
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If you keep the jack, you need to keep at least one stand. There's no point in having one and not the other, since you should never put a car up on a jack without a stand. 
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May 17, 2012 14:44
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Keep the stands. You will need them if you ever want to work on your brakes. If you ever need to change tie rod ends or shocks you will need the stands. Tire rotation is another good reason to have jack stands. The biggest job you should ever do with the car supported on a jack is changing a single tire. Even that can be dangerous with a jack only. Brakes are like the easiest job you can do on a car. I would rather change brakes than change oil. Oil changing is so messy.
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May 17, 2012 14:47
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Rabble posted:Thanks for the advice guys, maybe I'll take the stands back and keep the jack for if I ever want to change the tires.
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May 17, 2012 14:48
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Well since I didnt have the nerve to even get the car high enough to reach the bottom point of the stands I figured there wasn't much reason to keep them. But, I'll take the advice and keep them even though I can't see a reason to right now. What's the rule? No matter how many tools you have, you're always missing the one you need. And I'd never ever get under a car supported only by jacks. I'm going to stick to oil changes with ramps until the warranty runs out. I've got thousands of miles to go before I'll need to worry about brakes and other bits (I hope).
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May 17, 2012 15:13
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PBCrunch posted:
Everytime I do a brake job, there always seems to be ONE minor hiccup that takes like half an hour to resolve. And it's something different every time.
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May 17, 2012 15:14
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Rabble posted:Well since I didnt have the nerve to even get the car high enough to reach the bottom point of the stands I figured there wasn't much reason to keep them. But, I'll take the advice and keep them even though I can't see a reason to right now.
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May 17, 2012 17:26
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NitroSpazzz posted:Have a question for anyone who works with refrigeration equipment. We do a lot of work with 134A and the pumps we have been using only last a few months because they aren't made to move the volume we do. At the moment we are using the Promax RG6000, previously we were using a similar unit that I can't remember the name of. This got lost in the chat about equipping a mechanic. Any ideas?
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May 17, 2012 18:06
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No ideas myself, but you could also ask in the thread about A/C, might get a useful response: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3473368
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May 17, 2012 18:21
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It isn't really a tool but it can make some jobs easier. Permatex makes a sealant called The Right Stuff. It comes in an aerosol type can with an applicator tip. It comes out in a perfect uninterrupted bead. The best part is that it is really sticky and will definitely hold your gasket in place while you are maneuvering your replacement part into place. It is like $20 for a can, but it works great. The can is pretty big. The label says it can be used for gaskets that will be exposed to oil or coolant. Wear gloves when using.
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May 19, 2012 03:34
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PBCrunch posted:
May have to try that out, I do like the aerosol idea. Did you find it local or have to order it? Permatex generally makes some pretty good stuff. Kind of the opposite, but any recommendations for a solvent or specific chemical for removing gasket material?
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May 19, 2012 04:21
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velocross posted:Kind of the opposite, but any recommendations for a solvent or specific chemical for removing gasket material? http://www.harborfreight.com/air-angle-die-grinder-32046.html
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May 19, 2012 13:11
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penis bandana posted:http://www.harborfreight.com/air-angle-die-grinder-32046.html This is how you ruin aluminum blocks and heads.
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May 19, 2012 15:04
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Yeah, that's a great way to wreck aluminum. Some stuff about removing gaskets: * start by hosing it with non chlorinated brakleen. This seems to soften most RTV and gaskets/sealants at least a bit, and honestly, everything should be hosed with brakleen before attempting anything that resembles "work". * aluminum parts - drag a razor blade gasket scraper, don't push or you'll gouge the poo poo out of the part if you are as bad about finesse as I am. * steel/iron parts - scrape the poo poo out of it with that razor blade! You aren't going to damage it. * eye part suspiciously. Hose it with brakleen again just to make sure.
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May 19, 2012 17:05
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If all else fails, I've got a special scraper that takes just about anything off. Including steel. 
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May 19, 2012 18:00
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You guys know that they make different kinds of abrasives for your die grinder, right?
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May 19, 2012 18:15
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I just picked up a set of these for scraping head gasket remnants off of my aluminum SVX block. Hopefully they'll do the trick. Also grabbed this 60 piece Torx assortment since I seem to keep bumping into those stupid E-torx bolts on my BMW. I have no tools to work with these, and couldn't find anything except a basic set of wrenches locally. I had to remove one of the cams in my motor a couple weeks ago, and it was held in with e-torx. I had to go to Home Depot, and all they had that would fit was a set of "universal style" standard wrenches, which I was forced to use for that job. That said, the set is actually really comprehensive, and appears to be of very good quality. Of course some of it is redundant for me since I had the standard torx and even some of the "security" torx bits already, but I guess it never hurts to have spares or fuckoff huge sizes that I probably won't encounter in my lifetime.
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May 19, 2012 19:24
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penis bandana posted:You guys know that they make different kinds of abrasives for your die grinder, right? Is this directed at me? Yes, I am aware that they make more than one type of abrasive. The problem isn't with type, it's with abrasives period. That's not how it should be done. Plastic scrapers and chemical help followed by razor blades if necessary is how you do it without risk of damage.
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May 19, 2012 20:11
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